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Old 12-26-2012, 08:46 AM   #1
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rear lower control arm question

i just got the eibach pro kit springs, bmr adjustable panhard bar and now i see that i need relocation brackets. while im at it i might as well replace the rear lower control arms. im not installing anything until i get all the parts neccessary. now i do drag race often (weekend warrior) and i plan on using radials when i get enough money to buy them so i will be on stock summer tires in the meantime. i do want to eliminate hop as it is bad on the street so will the ones with the poly bushing work for me or do i need the ones that are just solid-ends teflon lined or the spherical ends?

if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:12 PM   #2
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if you drag race alot and are strong on traction you'll trash poly in no time. As long as you're on street rubber it's whatever but, getting a drag tire is a different story. Spherical ends are for you but, be prepared to be beat around the head and shoulders with NVH.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:37 PM   #3
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Relocation brackets aren't necessary, just recommended. IMHO, you'd be better off getting shocks to go with the lowering springs.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:41 PM   #4
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I would never put solid bearings in anything that saw lots of toad use. They squeak, they vibrate, they will shatter spines haha. I'd use the poly. Bushings are cheap.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claudermilk View Post
Relocation brackets aren't necessary, just recommended.
They are when you lower the car if you want to correct the angle of your lower control arms.


I use the BMR lower control arms and their relocation brackets. They work great for me. The BMR ones have three locations to mount the control arms. In testing on my car for the street the middle hole worked best for me but with a good tire I like to run them in the lower hole.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:57 AM   #6
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I will say that having the Whiteline LCA's and brackets drastically reduced my wheel hop on my lowered car ... rear-end traction is much better. And, they look cool.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:31 AM   #7
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I've got H&R Super Sport lowering springs, Eibach camber bolts and a Steeda adjustable panhard bar on my 2011 Mustang GT. I would like to replace the LCA's and add relocation brackets to her as well. I was thinking of going with the Steeda Billet LCA's and reloc. brackets. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUSHGUTS View Post
i just got the eibach pro kit springs, bmr adjustable panhard bar and now i see that i need relocation brackets. while im at it i might as well replace the rear lower control arms. im not installing anything until i get all the parts neccessary. now i do drag race often (weekend warrior) and i plan on using radials when i get enough money to buy them so i will be on stock summer tires in the meantime. i do want to eliminate hop as it is bad on the street so will the ones with the poly bushing work for me or do i need the ones that are just solid-ends teflon lined or the spherical ends?

if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
Us gna need a rear sway kit to clear the radials
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:19 PM   #9
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If you stay to an 8" wheel you don't need to relocate the sway bar, not that it's really hard.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
They are when you lower the car if you want to correct the angle of your lower control arms.


I use the BMR lower control arms and their relocation brackets. They work great for me. The BMR ones have three locations to mount the control arms. In testing on my car for the street the middle hole worked best for me but with a good tire I like to run them in the lower hole.
Can you tell me what the differences are by using each hole. You said for drag you use the lowest hole, what is the benefit of that? I'm not very knowledgable about these except I know I need the brackets to center everything up.

I just ordered the BMR brackets as well as their LCA's. they have the poly bushings.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #11
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Basically by putting the arm on the lowest hole you add leverage to the rear axle. As the gear loads up the housing, it wants to climb the ring gear, twisting the housing. As the loads hit the arms in the position, it sends that load vertically upward, trying to lift the body of the car. It's heavy so, equal and opposite reaction time, it plants the tires harder.

This is critical on a lowered car as the arms are now running uphill to the axle housing and this means reduced plant under power.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:46 PM   #12
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So for everyday street use I should use the top hole and for track the bottom? I want the most traction but without compromising reliability. I was assuming that the 3 holes are for you to level out the LCA back to factory spec depending on drop distance.
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:10 PM   #13
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There's no reliability issues whatever hole you use. However, the lowermost hole can compromise handling and braking performance, over a similar height car with the higher hole selected.
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:53 PM   #14
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You want the control arms either level or angled slightly down towards the rear like in my pic. That will mean either the middle or upper hole. The lower hole doesn't work with street tires as it puts too much down force on the rear axle that street tires can't handle. Also in the lower hole handling will be compromised a little more. One thing to remember is what works for one person may not with someone else. You have to determine what works best on your car.
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:24 PM   #15
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I'm not lowering my car and is for street use only, but I would like to be able get a quick start without wheel hop if challenged. Already installed BMR lower control arms and they did help. With the adjustable BMR brackets, will it help me for a quicker start with even less wheel hop ?? (2011 mustang GT 6 speed manual)
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