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Old 02-21-2013, 09:11 PM   #1
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Struts install question

So I started on my whole setup today and since I had only a few hours of daylight didn't get insanely far. I started on the front with the struts as it seemed like it would be the hardest part of the install.

Having Koni Str.t struts and H&R SS springs and Maximum Motorsports 11-13 caster camber plates I needed to get the stock struts apart to get the top isolator for reuse with the MM CC plates. I got the one strut apart by undoing the strut nut while it was still in the car before undoing anything else. Worked but was a royal pain in the ***. As for the other side, not exactly sure what to do. It is already apart but I can't get the strut apart. I don't really want to reassemble the stock strut into the car just to do the same thing. Lesson learned.

How do I get the top nut off when all the thing does is spin? I tried holding the main pipe down with pliers since I don't care if it gets damaged and no dice still spins on me.

Any suggestions?

Also difference between stock springs and H&K SS

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Old 02-21-2013, 09:52 PM   #2
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You can do several ways.
If you have time/patience and want the safer less damaging to OEM srut mounts take whole assembly out and go get a 30-40 dollar spring compressor kit and you can remove it completely out and then take apart. Or a buddys shop with a OTC or whatever wall mount compressor you can get to.
If you dont want to **** with a lot of time and in a press to do things you get some good grip on that shaft with knipex or channel locks.Put some serious arm on it man. If you want and have the tools use vice grips !!
If you had a pass thru KD socket set you could get on the top with the 10mm or whatever (can't remember) and then get on the nut.
If you got a crows foot (won't fit great but can work) if made bulky then grind it down if it does not fit down in there.
Air gun? Spins it faster and can break it loose sometimes too.
I have done it all the ways. If you were near me I let you use my compressor tool kit. Hell I sell ya one if you want, but you may get a knock-off brand by performance tool and parts house and some have a rental program like O'reillys. Probably 35.00 bucks to just buy it.
You will be pretty pleased with the Koni's. I just put some on myself and love them.
Hope some of these help. If you just want it done and not worried about damage to oem mounts to save or burr on shaft put vice grips on TIGHT or use some arm on channel locks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by back n a stang View Post
You can do several ways.
If you have time/patience and want the safer less damaging to OEM srut mounts take whole assembly out and go get a 30-40 dollar spring compressor kit and you can remove it completely out and then take apart. Or a buddys shop with a OTC or whatever wall mount compressor you can get to.
If you dont want to **** with a lot of time and in a press to do things you get some good grip on that shaft with knipex or channel locks.Put some serious arm on it man. If you want and have the tools use vice grips !!
If you had a pass thru KD socket set you could get on the top with the 10mm or whatever (can't remember) and then get on the nut.
If you got a crows foot (won't fit great but can work) if made bulky then grind it down if it does not fit down in there.
Air gun? Spins it faster and can break it loose sometimes too.
I have done it all the ways. If you were near me I let you use my compressor tool kit. Hell I sell ya one if you want, but you may get a knock-off brand by performance tool and parts house and some have a rental program like O'reillys. Probably 35.00 bucks to just buy it.
You will be pretty pleased with the Koni's. I just put some on myself and love them.
Hope some of these help. If you just want it done and not worried about damage to oem mounts to save or burr on shaft put vice grips on TIGHT or use some arm on channel locks.
Thanks for the advise. I do have a spring compressor and tried that. The strut still just spins and spins while trying to loosen the strut nut.

seems like what is going to be easiest is assembling the side I have done tomorrow and then putting the other side partially back in so it gets compressed and take it apart. That is how I got the drivers side apart after already having pulled the passenger sound out.

I couldn't find an airgun kit cheap as 35 dollars tho...electric guns maybe. Though might they be enough to just get it off?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:11 PM   #4
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Nah a good gun is a IR and you looking at 190.00 to 389.00.
But wait....You have the whole assembly out? All you have to do is compress the spring with you spring compressor kit.....Then, on the very tip of shaft you can put a wrench to hold it while wrenching the Nut off. If thats trouble then lay it over put vice grip or channel locks on and put some serious *** on holding that shaft from turning while you loosen the big nut.
Respect the thing though. I was in a customers shop one time when he had some bs rigged and it snapped and sprung into a cinder block wall knocking a hole in it. Sounded like a shot-gun. You be alright man. You can get it.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by back n a stang View Post
Nah a good gun is a IR and you looking at 190.00 to 389.00.
But wait....You have the whole assembly out? All you have to do is compress the spring with you spring compressor kit.....Then, on the very tip of shaft you can put a wrench to hold it while wrenching the Nut off. If thats trouble then lay it over put vice grip or channel locks on and put some serious *** on holding that shaft from turning while you loosen the big nut.
Respect the thing though. I was in a customers shop one time when he had some bs rigged and it snapped and sprung into a cinder block wall knocking a hole in it. Sounded like a shot-gun. You be alright man. You can get it.
ahhh I didn't think to try it that way, ok that makes sense. Yeah I picked up a heavy duty spring compressor. I really only got it because I thought if the springs drop me too low I might want to change them later and then I have all the tools.

Worst case I looked and harbor freight has a 1/2" electric impact wrench that is corded and does up too 230 ft/lbs. I would think that is enough for doing a few struts haha. It is $50 and would be nice to have.

My dad purchased an air compressor a few months back, but he got one that isn't very powerful and is below the ratings of any impact wrench I've seen. I never purchased one because of this. At some point I might get a real impact wrench with a good air compressor. Wish he would have told me he was getting one as I would have gone in on it with him to get a really nice one we could share.

Thanks for your help BTW!
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:16 PM   #6
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Glad to see the install is finally under way. Honestly it'd probably be worth the $40 or so a shop would charge you to do this. Spring compressors are a pain in the butt for sure. Otherwise, I had a second set of hands with big channels locks holding the shaft to prevent spinning while I removed the top nut
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:26 AM   #7
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Glad to see the install is finally under way. Honestly it'd probably be worth the $40 or so a shop would charge you to do this. Spring compressors are a pain in the butt for sure. Otherwise, I had a second set of hands with big channels locks holding the shaft to prevent spinning while I removed the top nut
+1 Bottom line is this. There are several types of DIY spring compressors. This is the most sure and safest way and you can save stuff without screwing it up. Or carry to somebody who has a wall mount compressor. As for when you put channel locks or vice grips put it up high as possible and the travel there will or should never be a issue if you did burr it a little which probably won't.
Even me, and I sell tools for a living man, a Truck full of Air tools plus everything you can imagine, yet I never even dragged out any of my air tools for the install. Have big compressor too, but just didnt need to. You should have no trouble doing like the way explained. The spring compressors that are cheap but have 4-U bolts and nuts in the kit are pretty safe. I would not put assembly back in and use jack on "A" arm method. You got it out all together just spend 40.00 on knock-off tool. The Jack and "A" method is highly likely to bust open the OEM mount and you don't want that.....and can be dangerous although we all have done it before probably.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:38 PM   #8
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Thank you guys for the help!

I am just going to pick up this really nice corded impact wrench from lowes. Thing seems to be a beast at least for what I want. I also know I will use it again with my many projects to come.

I haven't even gone out to work on it as everyone blew me off today for a ride to friggin lowes and I will need a helper for all of 5 mins to put the 5 nuts on the CC plates once I put the strut assembly in the car. Going out shortly to finally get the friggin impact wrench.

Figure I better just do it right. The back looks like it should be quick and easy compared to the front which is why I did the front first. Now if I can just remember where I put my hex screw driver set for the bumpstop screws...
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:48 PM   #9
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Well got an electric impact wrench and bam easy as cake. Now I am just waiting for my helper to get here so we can get the CC plate bolts in and then I am in business to finish the rest tonight. Hope Tire Discounters can do my alignment tomorrow.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:05 PM   #10
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I hear ya....You cut some off the bumps? How much drop are those springs? You need any TQ. specs on susp. stuff give me holla. I got about all them or ones that seem most important IMO. Glad you getting done bro.....I have had mine on for about 7 to 10 days. Hell they layed in my floor since december. Was just waiting on decent day of weather. I also had to send one of my front konis back, noticed it upon arrival. Brand new and bad out the box. Just one of those things but they took care of me.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:26 PM   #11
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I hear ya....You cut some off the bumps? How much drop are those springs? You need any TQ. specs on susp. stuff give me holla. I got about all them or ones that seem most important IMO. Glad you getting done bro.....I have had mine on for about 7 to 10 days. Hell they layed in my floor since december. Was just waiting on decent day of weather. I also had to send one of my front konis back, noticed it upon arrival. Brand new and bad out the box. Just one of those things but they took care of me.
I didn't yet actually. I wasn't thinking when I responded to your PM but I got the FRPP bumps that are intended for lowered cars. Figured I would just see how it is first. If it bottoms out to much I'll cut them. Since I have the right tools now to do it no big deal.

I got the TQ specs and followed them pretty closely, specially on the CC plates.

The front end is done and I am going to go do the back end here real quick. It looks easy compared to the front which is why I wanted to do it second.

Initial impressions, the car sits perfect. I wouldn't want her any lower and as for height it looks perfect.

and yes Koni is awesome, I live about 45 mins from their NA plant in Hebron Ky. One of my struts came in without the nut because the box was damaged and they were going to let me drive there and pick one up. Very impressed with them and really excited to drive the car, but gotta get the back done and get her aligned first.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:00 PM   #12
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Cool....If its not out bad with how it feels I would drive it a day or 2 then align. Not a bunch of miles but give it some settle in. The OEM bumps are gonna have to be cut or it will be hitting more than you think I believe. Like I said you may wanna get some more opinions on that.I am not sure how much drop your springs are-How much? The FRPP ones you got......How much shorter are they than OEM? Curious about this? Yes,The back is simple.You will need to put a wrench on top of shaft on top side but easy to work with.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
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Cool....If its not out bad with how it feels I would drive it a day or 2 then align. Not a bunch of miles but give it some settle in. The OEM bumps are gonna have to be cut or it will be hitting more than you think I believe. Like I said you may wanna get some more opinions on that.I am not sure how much drop your springs are-How much? The FRPP ones you got......How much shorter are they than OEM? Curious about this? Yes,The back is simple.You will need to put a wrench on top of shaft on top side but easy to work with.
I want to do that but I either align it tomorrow or align it thursday after putting 350+ miles on her. I work 12 hour shifts and won't have time else wise.

They are the same length but feel different. almost more forgiving? I just took the stock stock bumpers out and have them sitting with the stock parts. I left the stock rears ones in ATM because I need a Hex key to get them out. Doesn't use a standard wrench bolt. Dunno why they decided to do this. The new ones have the same dang botls but the back ones are designed differently.

Either way I just test drove her on a few curvy roads and a few crappy ones and she didn't bottom out and handled like a beast.

the springs are a 1.7" drop in the front and a 2.4" drop in the back.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:47 AM   #14
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Sounds all good......Got 2 questions. 1. Where is your rear bump stops at. As in, when car is just parked, and you look thru wheel , is it align to look like it will srike in the flat part of body or is it more to rear of body almost under the 45 degree looking area. 2. Sitting in resting position like we are talking how much space is between the bump and framework in the rear .
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:54 AM   #15
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Glad you like them, that makes at least 2 people I've talked into the Koni dampers now so hopefully Koni will start sending me checks any day now lol.

But yea, the strt is way more smooth and firm, I believe this is exactly how the car should have felt from the factory
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:39 AM   #16
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Sounds all good......Got 2 questions. 1. Where is your rear bump stops at. As in, when car is just parked, and you look thru wheel , is it align to look like it will srike in the flat part of body or is it more to rear of body almost under the 45 degree looking area. 2. Sitting in resting position like we are talking how much space is between the bump and framework in the rear .
glad you asked me to look. I will need to change those out asap. They are barely touching. They are hitting a flat spot but barely touching. Looking at them again they look bigger than the FRPP ones I got. I am going to find my friggin tool today and get them changed. Worst case I will cut the new back ones down anyway even though they seem shorter. Ride didn't seem bad last night, so if this is going to make it even better.

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Glad you like them, that makes at least 2 people I've talked into the Koni dampers now so hopefully Koni will start sending me checks any day now lol.

But yea, the strt is way more smooth and firm, I believe this is exactly how the car should have felt from the factory
Yessir! Glad you talked me into them. They feel so much better than the stock ones. I really am loving the way they ride.

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Old 02-23-2013, 01:03 PM   #17
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I love to see pics of you and Grabberblue50 thru the wheel at the bump. Mine is more under the 45 degree framework or about half and half on both sides of course but I made a thread over on "another board" and evrybody said its normal. GeorgenPA said its normal and will strike fine and said pulling springs and shocks and lowering it will prove. I believe it but it puzzled me.I mean wheel is center in wheel and all I think that could cause it is Pinion angle off a tad. I spoke to CHE and he acted like its no biggie also. I get pinion straight soon. If it would stop raining I cut some off my bumps in the rear too. I cut a good 1 to 1-1/2 off my fronts.I could tell by looking at my OEM strut it was hitting alot. I get the rears just as soon as it stops.I take some pics to post to show ya what I am talking about.
I knew you would flip when I told you to look.Especially with a 2.4 drop too!
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #18
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Where did you get the shocks/struts from? And how much if you dont mind me asking?
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:26 PM   #19
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I love to see pics of you and Grabberblue50 thru the wheel at the bump. Mine is more under the 45 degree framework or about half and half on both sides of course but I made a thread over on "another board" and evrybody said its normal. GeorgenPA said its normal and will strike fine and said pulling springs and shocks and lowering it will prove. I believe it but it puzzled me.I mean wheel is center in wheel and all I think that could cause it is Pinion angle off a tad. I spoke to CHE and he acted like its no biggie also. I get pinion straight soon. If it would stop raining I cut some off my bumps in the rear too. I cut a good 1 to 1-1/2 off my fronts.I could tell by looking at my OEM strut it was hitting alot. I get the rears just as soon as it stops.I take some pics to post to show ya what I am talking about.
I knew you would flip when I told you to look.Especially with a 2.4 drop too!
Glad I saw this as I am going to go jack up each side and take the wheel off and put the new bumpstops that I even cut on right now. I'll take a picture for you. Kinda hard to see them through the wheel but I'll see if I can here in a second when I go do that. I can feel the back hitting after driving today to get a T40 torque end to change the rear bumps but I don't feel the fronts hitting. I may just go ahead and pull it all apart next week and cut them before getting it aligned anyway since I know I should do that. Depends on how she handles for 6 40 min drives the next 3 days. It drives so dang straight I decided to just wait and let it all settle and not align it today.

EDIT: I need to add to this. So they are no longer directly under the flat part and are like you said under the 45 degree angle. That was after driving her kinda rough today for about an hour. I only drove her 10 mins last night. You can see in the second photo that they will for sure hit the 45 degree angle. I am guessing an adjustable UCA is going to fix this by pulling the axle back forward? Not that is really matters. I also need LCA badly. They look straight in the picture because there is no weight on the suspenion. I floored it in first and just spun tires today. Not terrible traction overall but I can see needing them ASAP.



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Where did you get the shocks/struts from? And how much if you dont mind me asking?
I got them from AM with 6% off their list price due to our discount from on here. I pretty much buy everything from AM. I think it was like 10$ more than stage3motorspots. I know I could have price matched them but I didn't mind AM getting the few dollars extra as they have done nothing but take care of me no questions asked everytime.

thought I would add this too

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Old 02-23-2013, 05:48 PM   #20
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Glad I have been some help a little man. As for the rear bumps .....as I was saying. Completely normal. Cutting some off like that and you are fine. I gotta do mine in the rear. Yeah at some point I would do fronts if I were you. It's not gonna mess up nothing but yeah they are hitting more then you will think. No worries. I got relocation brackets and lca's. All I need to do in future is UCA and some sway changes. Guy at CHE told me if I was not using 1-piece driveshaft, or yet, that worrying about the pinion angle at this time was not a major thing at all. I just wanted to be sure I would not wear any rotating part out pre-maturely. So I am not worried or in hurry for UCA. I am not using slicks or tracking right now. No hard launches with grip another words.
I can tell you this.....
If you are lowered you NEED relocation brackets and LCA's. The angle of your LCA's needs to be at min. parallell. What you really want is for the LCA's to be going slightly downhill or more from body to axle. This plants the tire! If not, you will actually get less traction than before you lowered. It's actually lifting the tire!! I have my LCA's in the middle of the 3 optional holes giving me a slightly downhill to axle which plants but street tires are no grip with HP like we make with these cars. Hope this info helps some too man. If I can ever help PM me. BTW car looking good Bruh!
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:56 PM   #21
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Glad I have been some help a little man. As for the rear bumps .....as I was saying. Completely normal. Cutting some off like that and you are fine. I gotta do mine in the rear. Yeah at some point I would do fronts if I were you. It's not gonna mess up nothing but yeah they are hitting more then you will think. No worries. I got relocation brackets and lca's. All I need to do in future is UCA and some sway changes. Guy at CHE told me if I was not using 1-piece driveshaft, or yet, that worrying about the pinion angle at this time was not a major thing at all. I just wanted to be sure I would not wear any rotating part out pre-maturely. So I am not worried or in hurry for UCA. I am not using slicks or tracking right now. No hard launches with grip another words.
I can tell you this.....
If you are lowered you NEED relocation brackets and LCA's. The angle of your LCA's needs to be at min. parallell. What you really want is for the LCA's to be going slightly downhill or more from body to axle. This plants the tire! If not, you will actually get less traction than before you lowered. It's actually lifting the tire!! I have my LCA's in the middle of the 3 optional holes giving me a slightly downhill to axle which plants but street tires are no grip with HP like we make with these cars. Hope this info helps some too man. If I can ever help PM me. BTW car looking good Bruh!
Yeah I still have to fix something stupid with the exhaust I did when I put the Borlas on so I plan to just go ahead and pull the struts apart and cut the bumpers then. I don't really want too but I know I should. I'll have 4 days off next week so plenty of time to do so. Well that makes me feel better about the UCA as the LCA and relocation brackets are next at near 300 and then the UCA plus new bracket for it which I hear is a must is another 300ish. I just don't have that money sitting around right now! LCA and relo brackets are happening soon as my tax money comes in.

right now the arms are going the exact opposite way and are like you said lifting the axle up when I floor it. I don't plan on doing any track days or drag strip runs with any of the groups I know until after I atleast get the LCA and relobrackets done. I'll run far worse than stock times right now.

You were definitly a help and I appreciate it! Thanks about my car, she is dirty but I am holding off really washing her and waxing her until weather stays nice. RIght now it is almost raining every other day and it would just be fighting to keep her clean.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:13 PM   #22
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There is a way you could pull the tire and cut those without pulling anything else I believe. Just my thought. To keep from damaging you could wrap some scotch 33 or decent electrical tape on the best shaft point and slide that bump onto that area.Pin the boot up or down, whatever is gonna be clearest shot out the way, and take you time working around the stop with a hacksaw blade or attach it tightly to a long screwdriver for reach.This is just running thru my head on ways to do. Just cut in good,then turn some cut in good and so on.All the while being careful not to run blade into shaft. Take box cutter and split the piece you are ****-canning and take it out of there. I believe this can be done and BAM.... you got it!! , with all to do is put tire on. I would jack it up and put jack stands under body so all susp. in front is out relaxed and giving you the room to do it. I bet it works!
OK man......LOL....Whats the exhaust problem?
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by back n a stang View Post
There is a way you could pull the tire and cut those without pulling anything else I believe. Just my thought. To keep from damaging you could wrap some scotch 33 or decent electrical tape on the best shaft point and slide that bump onto that area.Pin the boot up or down, whatever is gonna be clearest shot out the way, and take you time working around the stop with a hacksaw blade or attach it tightly to a long screwdriver for reach.This is just running thru my head on ways to do. Just cut in good,then turn some cut in good and so on.All the while being careful not to run blade into shaft. Take box cutter and split the piece you are ****-canning and take it out of there. I believe this can be done and BAM.... you got it!! , with all to do is put tire on. I would jack it up and put jack stands under body so all susp. in front is out relaxed and giving you the room to do it. I bet it works!
OK man......LOL....Whats the exhaust problem?
yeah I thought about trying that, just really don't wanna mess the struts up. Worth it to take it apart and do it right.

uh I have them angled funny and so the OTA pipes are banging on the panhard bar support. I really just need to remove the panhard bar support and reangle them and put them back in. I just was worn out today and figured I would do that next week.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:23 PM   #24
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So can you make like a list of the parts.needed to get this nice drop. Also how boincy it is and if it isnt then how uncomfortable the ride is compared to oem stance
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:03 PM   #25
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So can you make like a list of the parts.needed to get this nice drop. Also how boincy it is and if it isnt then how uncomfortable the ride is compared to oem stance
Koni Str.t shocks and struts
Springs your choice
Caster camber plates if dropping this low
Pan hard bar.

Going to order LCA and relo brackets hopefully next week.
Ride is very stiff and very smooth 90% of the time. When I do hit something that makes the car bounce it throws you kinda hard. I know I'll hit the roof some day.

But really it isn't uncomfortable. I guess if you ONLY drive bad streets it would be terrible. You definitely feel the small ledges between asphalt slabs if they are off and don't hit pot holes at all period.

I love how low she sits I just need some 19" to fill Tue gap out better. Might do wheel spacers too see of that helps. The front looks a little too tucked now.

In person was an insane difference. 2.4 in the back doesnt seem like much but she feels low when I walk up behind her. Like instead of looking kinda at the trunk I have to look down.

I won't have to stand on the rocker panel area with the door open to wax the roof anymore

Oh, 0 nose dive on breaking, stays flat as all get out on turns. And just over all handles better. Acceleration sucks but the LCA and relobrackets will fix that.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:25 PM   #26
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Koni Str.t shocks and struts
Springs your choice
Caster camber plates if dropping this low
Pan hard bar.

Going to order LCA and relo brackets hopefully next week.
Ride is very stiff and very smooth 90% of the time. When I do hit something that makes the car bounce it throws you kinda hard. I know I'll hit the roof some day.

But really it isn't uncomfortable. I guess if you ONLY drive bad streets it would be terrible. You definitely feel the small ledges between asphalt slabs if they are off and don't hit pot holes at all period.

I love how low she sits I just need some 19" to fill Tue gap out better. Might do wheel spacers too see of that helps. The front looks a little too tucked now.

In person was an insane difference. 2.4 in the back doesnt seem like much but she feels low when I walk up behind her. Like instead of looking kinda at the trunk I have to look down.

I won't have to stand on the rocker panel area with the door open to wax the roof anymore

Oh, 0 nose dive on breaking, stays flat as all get out on turns. And just over all handles better. Acceleration sucks but the LCA and relobrackets will fix that.
Man I'm lowered on sportlines spring and my ride is not that bad as yours.
The car just feels solid.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:32 PM   #27
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Man I'm lowered on sportlines spring and my ride is not that bad as yours.
The car just feels solid.
I agree man. My car has no more body roll and feels like what a mustang should. Outside if some slight popping over speed bumps every now and then it's pretty perfect as is
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:03 PM   #28
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Granted I've only had stock shocks and struts, but this is kind of what has made me apprehensive about getting performance shocks/struts. I DD my Mustang and have some rough roads around me, so possibly riding on a buckboard has kind of kept me away. My car rides pretty stiff as is with the springs, chasis braces, pan hard bar, LCA's, 3rd link, and polyurethane bushings all over, so making it even more stiff on the street hasn't been too appealing.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:33 PM   #29
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Granted I've only had stock shocks and struts, but this is kind of what has made me apprehensive about getting performance shocks/struts. I DD my Mustang and have some rough roads around me, so possibly riding on a buckboard has kind of kept me away. My car rides pretty stiff as is with the springs, chasis braces, pan hard bar, LCA's, 3rd link, and polyurethane bushings all over, so making it even more stiff on the street hasn't been too appealing.
Well it really isn't the struts. Its the springs. 1.7" drop in the front and 2.4" in the back is more than your sport lines no?

Grabber blue can throw his insight as he has them with a 1" drop I believe. His are more realistic to what most people will do.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:39 PM   #30
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Man I'm lowered on sportlines spring and my ride is not that bad as yours.
The car just feels solid.
I have the strt also with p springs. Are you still riding on stock dampers? The strt have a much more stuff ride than stock but its smoother. Kind of hard to explain but if you ride in a car with the konis you'll understand
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:41 PM   #31
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I have the strt also with p springs. Are you still riding on stock dampers? The strt have a much more stuff ride than stock but its smoother. Kind of hard to explain but if you ride in a car with the konis you'll understand
Agreed. I think without the konis and just these springs with stock shocks and struts the ride would be terrible. I can't imagine the stock struts and shocks and these springs.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:42 PM   #32
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Granted I've only had stock shocks and struts, but this is kind of what has made me apprehensive about getting performance shocks/struts. I DD my Mustang and have some rough roads around me, so possibly riding on a buckboard has kind of kept me away. My car rides pretty stiff as is with the springs, chasis braces, pan hard bar, LCA's, 3rd link, and polyurethane bushings all over, so making it even more stiff on the street hasn't been too appealing.
Stock dampers blow lol. Ride is far more smooth than stock dampers but you have the feeling of exponentially more control with the konis. I could tell that the stock dampers were very worn when I installed my konis. They are not meant to operate in the range of a lowered vehicle and wear out much faster
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:00 PM   #33
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I have the strt also with p springs. Are you still riding on stock dampers? The strt have a much more stuff ride than stock but its smoother. Kind of hard to explain but if you ride in a car with the konis you'll understand
No it's the sportline kit with sway bars & shock,strut.

The sportline are 2" front and 2.4" rear I think. It's a big drop. My car looks lowers than yours.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:02 PM   #34
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No it's the sportline kit with sway bars & shock,strut.

The sportline are 2" front and 2.4" rear I think. It's a big drop. My car looks lowers than yours.
The H&R super sports?

1.7 front 2.4" rear.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #35
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The H&R super sports?

1.7 front 2.4" rear.
eibach sportline spring

1.4 front 2" rear so your spring is lower right?
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