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Old 02-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #1
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Aluminum Drive shaft

Is it worth upgrading the standard driveshaft on the 2012 ford mustang gt with an aluminum driveshaft. Im also looking at installing a precision industry torque converter with a 3200 stall. So far I have the JLT cold air kit, boss intake and roush exhast. I drive the car daily when the weather is good so I dont want to do something that will affect its driveablity. I also like going to the track and looking for better acceleration and better launches. Thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:06 AM   #2
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Is it worth upgrading the standard driveshaft on the 2012 ford mustang gt with an aluminum driveshaft. Im also looking at installing a precision industry torque converter with a 3200 stall. So far I have the JLT cold air kit, boss intake and roush exhast. I drive the car daily when the weather is good so I dont want to do something that will affect its driveablity. I also like going to the track and looking for better acceleration and better launches. Thanks
Aluminum DS is absolutely worth it. I just installed mine on Saturday and can tell a decent difference. A higher stall converter will decrease streetability from my understanding but I've never owned an auto with a stall so I can't say for sure.

Look into BMR lca relocation brackets for harder launches
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:19 AM   #3
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+1 for the aluminum driveshaft, well worth the effort and time...
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:03 AM   #4
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Aluminum DS is absolutely worth it. I just installed mine on Saturday and can tell a decent difference. A higher stall converter will decrease streetability from my understanding but I've never owned an auto with a stall so I can't say for sure.

Look into BMR lca relocation brackets for harder launches
From how I understand it the stall convertor takes the energy from the engine while you are stopped and multiplies it. Kinda like starting off the line with 3.73 gears and then switching magically to 3.31 gears after the initial launch.

So pretty much every stop light your at it would feel like being in a manual car with the person dumping the clutch at every light.

If it makes driving that bad? Dunno but I can see how it would since you get all or nothing.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #5
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I don't know much about newer stangs. But for stall usually around 2800 is better for a street car. Just to clarify, a 3200 stall will still grab before 3200 rpm. It depends on how hard you are accelerating. 3200 rpms would be when max holding strength is reached. So if you are easing into the throttle the car will move well before 3200. It would be similar to dropping the clutch if you floored the pedal really hard.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:24 AM   #6
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every 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of dead weight and every 120lbs is about a tenth of a second faster. You also pick up a bit of hp/tq
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:36 AM   #7
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every 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of dead weight and every 120lbs is about a tenth of a second faster. You also pick up a bit of hp/tq
So since the one piece aluminum driveshaft is 30 pounds of rotational mass lighter than the stock driveshaft, one can expect between 2 to 3 tenths quicker acceleration by switching. Sweet deal.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #8
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well not quite but say the 300lbs of dead weight equal so what ever that would do, say 2 maybe~ something like that. It can vary car to car but it will be noticable.

30lbs is a bunch, my 01 V6 OEM shaft was 25lbs and the alum one was 15 so only 10lbs saved on that one. Remember yokes those go back on the new alum one so gotta count those in on the weight.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:21 PM   #9
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So since the one piece aluminum driveshaft is 30 pounds of rotational mass lighter than the stock driveshaft, one can expect between 2 to 3 tenths quicker acceleration by switching. Sweet deal.
DSS aluminum DS is only 21 lbs
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:49 PM   #10
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every 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of dead weight and every 120lbs is about a tenth of a second faster. You also pick up a bit of hp/tq
I thought every 1 lb of rotational mass is equal to 4 lbs of dead weight?
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #11
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I thought every 1 lb of rotational mass is equal to 4 lbs of dead weight?
Ive heard everything from 4:1 to 10:1
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #12
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Ive heard everything from 4:1 to 10:1
This lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:54 PM   #13
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Ive heard everything from 4:1 to 10:1
That's a big difference
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:47 PM   #14
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Any idea on what too do with the factory two piece driveshaft. Lol. I cannot believe Ford would use this for their 305 HP vehicle let alone a two piece for the 5.0. What a huge difference in quality between the one piece and two. Heck, look at the middle of it, no wonder its way weaker.

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:03 PM   #15
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Not sure what the difference is between the v6 and GT DS. Yours looks a little different. But they're both still garbage lol

I suppose you could cut it with a cutting torch and weld it back together just for practice... Other than that it's just a big idle paper weight...

Maybe you could do some curls
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:33 PM   #16
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Not sure what the difference is between the v6 and GT DS. Yours looks a little different. But they're both still garbage lol

I suppose you could cut it with a cutting torch and weld it back together just for practice... Other than that it's just a big idle paper weight...

Maybe you could do some curls
Lol. Too funny. My wife looked at me when I was loading the factory two piece driveshaft into our mini van and said what the hell are we keeping that thing for. I have no clue. I love the black plastic piece in the middle. Yikes. So does the GT driveshaft look different. Mine is from a 11 V6. Not sure if the 13 is different.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:22 PM   #17
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Mines an 11 GT. the only difference really is the pillow style carrier bearing instead of that black flex plastic
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:43 PM   #18
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Mines an 11 GT. the only difference really is the pillow style carrier bearing instead of that black flex plastic
I'm not saying my car is a 5.0 but with this aluminum driveshaft and the 3:73 gears I had installed today, the car is totally different. The off line acceleration is great now and what it should be in a car with that power. I can't believe Ford would use that two piece. No reason they cant use a lighter one piece. You Gt folks are paying darn good money and no reason to cut corners on the driveshaft.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:16 PM   #19
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I'm not saying my car is a 5.0 but with this aluminum driveshaft and the 3:73 gears I had installed today, the car is totally different. The off line acceleration is great now and what it should be in a car with that power. I can't believe Ford would use that two piece. No reason they cant use a lighter one piece. You Gt folks are paying darn good money and no reason to cut corners on the driveshaft.
Agreed. But so much money went into the block they had to cut corners somewhere to keep it an "affordable" sports car. I just installed my DS on Saturday and can tell a huge difference... I did mine on jack stands though lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:23 PM   #20
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Agreed. But so much money went into the block they had to cut corners somewhere to keep it an "affordable" sports car. I just installed my DS on Saturday and can tell a huge difference... I did mine on jack stands though lol
Hey, the jack stands worked. What ever it takes. Lol. The mechanic who installed my gears also put the aluminum driveshaft on for me. He didnt even charge me for the driveshaft install. I paid 277 dollars for the gears and driveshaft to be installed. No whine in my gears. He did a great job. Great price. What a huge difference the 3:73 gears make. Almost no tire spin. Maybe a little chirp but shoots off fast from a dead stop.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:57 PM   #21
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where have ya'll been purchasing the alum ds from? tools/tips/any new tune(s) req for R2?
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:00 PM   #22
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where have ya'll been purchasing the alum ds from? tools/tips/any new tune(s) req for R2?
What's R2?
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:04 PM   #23
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D2's babies momma, sorry couldn't help it lol (R2-D2)
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:41 PM   #24
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where have ya'll been purchasing the alum ds from? tools/tips/any new tune(s) req for R2?
American Musscle last week. They were in stock then.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:41 AM   #25
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anyone had a clunking noise from the alluminum ddriveshaft
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:29 AM   #26
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anyone had a clunking noise from the alluminum ddriveshaft
Not nearly as bad as the stock pos 2-piece
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #27
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There is a guy that had a used driveshaft for sale a week or two ago on this Facebook page i'm part of:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2632...group_activity
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2632...group_activity

It's from the Driveshaft Shop, which is the same one I have in my car now and I can attest to the quality of, he pulled it from a wrecked car, had it rebalanced by the DSS, and has it up for sale at $500. It's a heck of a deal for someone, couldn't let it just sit there, thought maybe one of us would need it. If I didn't have the same one already, i'd have bought it already.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:23 AM   #28
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There is a guy that had a used driveshaft for sale a week or two ago on this Facebook page i'm part of:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2632...group_activity
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2632...group_activity

It's from the Driveshaft Shop, which is the same one I have in my car now and I can attest to the quality of, he pulled it from a wrecked car, had it rebalanced by the DSS, and has it up for sale at $500. It's a heck of a deal for someone, couldn't let it just sit there, thought maybe one of us would need it. If I didn't have the same one already, i'd have bought it already.
That's a great deal. They cost around 700 so 500 is a steal (steel). Well aluminum . Lol
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:31 AM   #29
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So since the one piece aluminum driveshaft is 30 pounds of rotational mass lighter than the stock driveshaft, one can expect between 2 to 3 tenths quicker acceleration by switching. Sweet deal.
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well not quite but say the 300lbs of dead weight equal so what ever that would do, say 2 maybe~ something like that. It can vary car to car but it will be noticable.

30lbs is a bunch, my 01 V6 OEM shaft was 25lbs and the alum one was 15 so only 10lbs saved on that one. Remember yokes those go back on the new alum one so gotta count those in on the weight.
On my 06 the stock shaft and u joint was 41 lbs and the aluminum is 16 lbs.

It is good for a tenth and a half for most people. Makes driving with the cam much easier.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:16 PM   #30
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I just ordered a Dynatech alum DS from Brenspeed today. If its good enough for the NHRA it's good enough for me.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:18 PM   #31
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I was looking at the driveshaft from brenspeed. Please let me know how it works.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #32
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I was looking at the driveshaft from brenspeed. Please let me know how it works.
Will do.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #33
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I just ordered a Dynatech alum DS from Brenspeed today. If its good enough for the NHRA it's good enough for me.
Hmm kinda confused here. That thing saves you 1 LB? Other ones on the market have the same ratings and save you more weight.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #34
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Hmm kinda confused here. That thing saves you 1 LB? Other ones on the market have the same ratings and save you more weight.
No it comes with an alum flange that saves 1 add pound compared to a steel flange.. The shaft itself is 19 lbs.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #35
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I thought every 1 lb of rotational mass is equal to 4 lbs of dead weight?
on the other forum I am that is strictly on aerodynamics and the physics of making vehicles more efficient, the accepted and always declared value of rotating mass is 4 pounds for 1 rotating. I do not know for fact, realistically it is a variable, depending on how far away the mass is from the center rotation point. The value of 1 lb one foot away from the center point is less than the value of 1 lb three feet away. So on a drive shaft, probably closer to 4. A wheel/tire? Maybe closer to 10.

But I am no scientist...lol

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