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Old 03-07-2013, 06:01 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by FORDGT14 View Post
Ok, so if I go with this kit, will I still be able to use my BAMA Tuner from AM? Or would I be better off going to a dyno and having it done. Also, does this kit come with everything I need? Im asking because $4287.99 sounds almost too good to be true to have "615 hp" according to the site

Heres the link to it:

Paxton 2011-2014 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT/Boss 2200SL Tuner Kit Satin Finish

This the one?
Nope it doesn't....Need a off road mid pipe...ID1000 injectors are almost $900 and a boost a pump just over $200...then you have all you need for 600+ you can get by with other injectors but IDs are the best!! oh and possibly a BOSS IM..
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:04 AM   #37
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Yeah I'm leaning more towards the roush setup right now, everyone i know around here is saying to go for the roush phase 2 and when i decide to go for more power, all i really have to do is get the phase 3 pulley and a few other things

And whose justin and his wife?
I think they are the owners of VMP Tuning.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:09 AM   #38
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Yes Justin starkey is the owner of Vmp and Rebecca is his wife search her on YouTube she ran 10 flat in the quarter in an auto with a roush tvs
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:00 AM   #39
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I've been looking into the Roush SC's and I really like the "Roush Phase 3 R2300 TVS Supercharger" from "Stage 3 Motorsports." It's rated at 675 hp which is well over what I need, but it would be nice to have that extra power.

But does anyone have this SC? Or know anyone with it? Is it safe to run on a stock 5.0 engine? 675 hp is a lot so I'm just curious..

Here's the link to it, let me know what you guys think.

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/201...Kit-675HP.html
I'm curious how stage 3 has this. I talked to Roush a week ago and they are still working on this. I have the phase 2 and its a blast. I'm more of a DD but plan to hit track with some other fellow club members come June. I still have a brake upgrade and few suspension upgrades to install before then.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:28 AM   #40
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All powwah...where's the delicate balance of forces so important to road racer heroes? What you're talking about sounds more like is something that snarls and leaps from one end of the straightaway to the other, boiling its brakes off into every turn from the speed generated.

...and seriously, how could a road racer live with himself adding about 100 pounds of extra weight out front and up high, upsetting the perfect chassis balance these cars have?

....
Big +1^
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:59 AM   #41
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Just do it
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:01 AM   #42
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I'm curious how stage 3 has this. I talked to Roush a week ago and they are still working on this. I have the phase 2 and its a blast. I'm more of a DD but plan to hit track with some other fellow club members come June. I still have a brake upgrade and few suspension upgrades to install before then.
Answered my own question. Roush is taking pre orders so that is why it is advertised.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:19 AM   #43
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Lol power is something that gets to everyone that races with an engine. Bigger and more is more fun!!. But yea I also have to make other upgrades to handle the road course. As far as balance the new engine is lighter and the Paxton kit weight about 50 pounds or so. This isn't an all out race car, I also use it to go get groceries
Are you sponsored by Paxton too?
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:32 PM   #44
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Are you sponsored by Paxton too?
No.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:41 PM   #45
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This doesn't answer your question, but just a little advice. If you're using your tax refund, my advice is that you have enough left over to put aside to cover extra costs and anything that might go wrong. When going FI, you never just spend just what the kit and labor costs. There's always a bunch of extra costs, whether they be to fix something that broke, or to upgrade something to keep it from breaking, or to supplement your kit. Most people overlook this.
Best advice EVER. I'd rather be stock and running than have a 600hp time bomb lol, when I can afford a supercharger ill get an intake/tune combo
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by FORDGT14

That's on AM right? I can't find it, could you post a link?
I wouldn't trust anyone but breenspeed on fi.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #47
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I wouldn't trust anyone but breenspeed on fi.
Lol
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:18 PM   #48
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When the full s/c kit for 2011 automatics were not availablevat roush, they referred me VMP to adapt their kits.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:27 PM   #49
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I wouldn't trust anyone but breenspeed on fi.
Saw brenspeed at a track down in Houston, they had their green promo car do a couple runs (fi). I'm pretty sure it broke. May not have broke, but it was slow, so guessing they hope it broke and wasn't that slow when 100%. Lets just say it broke, so sucked less but sucked nonetheless
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:09 PM   #50
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I wouldn't trust anyone but breenspeed on fi.
Didn't the brenspeed guy blow up a ford gt then pack up his laptop and bounce? I've heard this a few times.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #51
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Didn't the brenspeed guy blow up a ford gt then pack up his laptop and bounce? I've heard this a few times.
Wow.. Never heard that one before lol
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:29 PM   #52
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Whipple is more expensive than other TVS...
True till the engine lets loose

Then The Whipple is a Bargin if bought and installed by Ford
Your Factory warranty is still valid. 5 years 60,000 miles

How Cheap is That
Its a No brainer on a 2013
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:40 PM   #53
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roush does 3 year 36
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #54
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True till the engine lets loose

Then The Whipple is a Bargin if bought and installed by Ford
Your Factory warranty is still valid. 5 years 60,000 miles

How Cheap is That
Its a No brainer on a 2013
Don't think so. Not a single one keeps factory warranty. This has been argued to death on here.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:53 PM   #55
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I have a guy telling me that 700hp on a stock motor is fine. Supposedly he has a few guys running this for 20k miles with no problems still...
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:56 PM   #56
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I have a guy telling me that 700hp on a stock motor is fine. Supposedly he has a few guys running this for 20k miles with no problems still...
I'm right at 600 RWHP, I have stock clutch and tranny been running this power level for a few thousand miles with no problems...about to turn up to 11 psi and see what she has to offer!
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #57
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I'm not going to lie, this is some of the worst advice I've seen on here. Brenspeed is a good tuner for N/A, I wouldn't let them touch my car with an F/I. The TI-VCT can be a little trouble after putting down a certain amount of HP. The Roush warranty is legit if you use their tune, they've blown an engine but replaced it. I would rather go to a tuner that I don't have to worry about blowing my engine, if a company needs to put a warranty on their tune.... I don't trust it. Whats that old saying, a piece of S#$% in a box that has a warranty is still a piece of s#$%.
6speedfreak, who is your tuner? Unless you're running E85 running 11lbs of boost is pushing it. With the high compression of our engines, the higher boost = the need for higher octane.
The FRPP offers a warranty but you need to pay for it and it only applies to the 525 (to the flywheel) kit. Who wants to run a blower on their car and be lucky to only push 470 to the wheels, oh yeah after paying 9-10k because you decided to pay 1500-2k to have a dealer install it.

Stage3 sells a lot of stuff without telling you you're going to have to wait weeks to months. I package a lot of Roush kits for guys as I'm a dealer for Roush and FRPP and ID. I usually save people quite a bit of money.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:31 PM   #58
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Its all in my sig...Blow By Racing tuned my car...I am turbo by the way plenty of kits running 11 to 14 psi on turbo and superchargers.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #59
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Ah I see, didn't notice the turbo part. Was thinking PD since we're talking about the Roush kit.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:53 PM   #60
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Don't think so. Not a single one keeps factory warranty. This has been argued to death on here.
Actually its Ford Racing, (which is ford anyway)
steps in during the time period if the engine should let go

If The engine lets loose because of the Supercharger
during the first 36000 miles, Ford Racing eats the bill $$
If the Dealer proves it was the Supercharger that caused the failure

Then after the 36000 mark, up to the factory 60,000 mile powertrain warranty.
Ford is responsible, if its proven the engine faliure was NOT related to the Supercharger.

Trust me, I was on a three way confrence for 30 mins, with My Ford dealer and Ford Racing
asking those very questions.

Basically if you want a Supercharger, You should put it on right after the 5000 mile oil change,
If you wait till after then 36,000 mile period. Ford Racing will not cover it. But Ford (dealer) will if its detemined it was Not a related failure to The Supercharger

Btw, whoever told you guys a stock cast crank, cast piston GT will handle 700 Hp,
Needs to ask Ford why their Supercharger
will only be allowed, 525hp under warranty
Something to chew on
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:59 PM   #61
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Actually its Ford Racing, (which is ford anyway)
steps in during the time period if the engine should let go

If The engine lets loose because of the Supercharger
during the first 36000 miles, Ford Racing eats the bill $$
If the Dealer proves it was the Supercharger that caused the failure

Then after the 36000 mark, up to the factory 60,000 mile powertrain warranty.
Ford is responsible, if its proven the engine faliure was NOT related to the Supercharger.

Trust me, I was on a three way confrence for 30 mins, with My Ford dealer and Ford Racing
asking those very questions.

Basically if you want a Supercharger, You should put it on right after the 5000 mile oil change,
If you wait till after then 36,000 mile period. Ford Racing will not cover it. But Ford (dealer) will if its detemined it was Not a related failure to The Supercharger

Btw, whoever told you guys a stock cast crank, cast piston GT will handle 700 Hp,
Needs to ask Ford why their Supercharger
will only be allowed, 525hp under warranty
Something to chew on
Who the hell wants to pay 9k for 100hp(at crank)? That's just stupid IMO!
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:00 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by TrackPak View Post
Actually its Ford Racing, (which is ford anyway)
steps in during the time period if the engine should let go

If The engine lets loose because of the Supercharger
during the first 36000 miles, Ford Racing eats the bill $$
If the Dealer proves it was the Supercharger that caused the failure

Then after the 36000 mark, up to the factory 60,000 mile powertrain warranty.
Ford is responsible, if its proven the engine faliure was NOT related to the Supercharger.

Trust me, I was on a three way confrence for 30 mins, with My Ford dealer and Ford Racing
asking those very questions.

Basically if you want a Supercharger, You should put it on right after the 5000 mile oil change,
If you wait till after then 36,000 mile period. Ford Racing will not cover it. But Ford (dealer) will if its detemined it was Not a related failure to The Supercharger

Btw, whoever told you guys a stock cast crank, cast piston GT will handle 700 Hp,
Needs to ask Ford why their Supercharger
will only be allowed, 525hp under warranty
Something to chew on
First off the crank is forged, secondly there are enough people running 700 rwhp to say that yea it can be safely done, and for 20000+ miles. There are a couple of guys on this forum as well as many on other forums running over 700 rwhp in stock block. In fact 750 seems to be close to the breaking point and guess what? It's never the rods or pistons that let go, can you tell me what it is?

And FRPP will only warranty their 525 kit for the same reason no other manufacturer will warranty anything like that. They warranty FACTORY cars, not modded ones.

And FRPP and ford are NOT the same company
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:13 PM   #63
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First off the crank is forged, secondly there are enough people running 700 rwhp to say that yea it can be safely done, and for 20000+ miles. There are a couple of guys on this forum as well as many on other forums running over 700 rwhp in stock block. In fact 750 seems to be close to the breaking point and guess what? It's never the rods or pistons that let go, can you tell me what it is?

And FRPP will only warranty their 525 kit for the same reason no other manufacturer will warranty anything like that. They warranty FACTORY cars, not modded ones.

And FRPP and ford are NOT the same company
This. Please do your research trackpack before spouting off information that is false and has been beat to death on this forum before multiple times.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:49 AM   #64
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First off the crank is forged, secondly there are enough people running 700 rwhp to say that yea it can be safely done, and for 20000+ miles. There are a couple of guys on this forum as well as many on other forums running over 700 rwhp in stock block. In fact 750 seems to be close to the breaking point and guess what? It's never the rods or pistons that let go, can you tell me what it is?

And FRPP will only warranty their 525 kit for the same reason no other manufacturer will warranty anything like that. They warranty FACTORY cars, not modded ones.

And FRPP and ford are NOT the same company
What is it? I know the rods are the weak point, as per an interview with the engineers back in 2010, but curious to find out what is actually breaking. Oil pump?
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:51 AM   #65
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What is it? I know the rods are the weak point, as per an interview with the engineers back in 2010, but curious to find out what is actually breaking. Oil pump?
While the oil pump gears have been known to go I was wanting to see if he could tell me exactly what failed during a catastrophic failure.

It's actually the cylinder walls that give out under boost due to the large coolant passage on either side of the cylinder. Up till now I cannot think of a coyote that has thrown a rod. Not to say it hasn't happened but it's just not common
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:02 PM   #66
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actually a buddy of mine blew his at 650 ish rwhp with a pro charger his weak point was the piston...and by the way the roush kit is 575 crank hp which is 500 rwhp and it is the safest daily drive supercharger kit available the fact that there is Warrenty doesn't make it crap it just means they stand behind what they do... they want you to have peace of mind buying their product. And unless your drag racing alot 500 rwhp is quite a bit on the street if you really want to be safe...if you want more get some forged internals and then have more peace about turning it up

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 PM ----------

Oh and just because so and so have gone 20k miles doesn't mean everyone will and tomorrow that engine could blow because at 700+ rwhp on stock internals its not if but when the question you have to ask is do you have another $7000 to replace your engine if it blows if not than go with one that has a Warrenty and don't think twice
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:54 PM   #67
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actually a buddy of mine blew his at 650 ish rwhp with a pro charger his weak point was the piston...and by the way the roush kit is 575 crank hp which is 500 rwhp and it is the safest daily drive supercharger kit available the fact that there is Warrenty doesn't make it crap it just means they stand behind what they do... they want you to have peace of mind buying their product. And unless your drag racing alot 500 rwhp is quite a bit on the street if you really want to be safe...if you want more get some forged internals and then have more peace about turning it up

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 PM ----------

Oh and just because so and so have gone 20k miles doesn't mean everyone will and tomorrow that engine could blow because at 700+ rwhp on stock internals its not if but when the question you have to ask is do you have another $7000 to replace your engine if it blows if not than go with one that has a Warrenty and don't think twice
Ugh, geez c'mon! I never said its not possible and I never said that its always the cylinder wall. But there are multiple people that have gone 700+. Guess what? Some people don't even have a stock motor that survives. Maybe the coyote can't handle 360 rwhp either
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #68
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From the March 10, 2010
5.0 mag article (quote) below


Like current Mustang GT rods, Coyote connecting rods are forged from powdered metal. Optimized for reduced weight and redesigned for uniform bearing loads around the big end, the Coyote rod eliminates the 4.6 rod's balance pad. These rods are plenty strong for stock rpm and power but will not survive forced induction


Good to hear the Crank is Forged
(the salesmen told me only the Boss and Shelby were)


But The Rods are Concerning after reading the above comments


Btw All the warranty stuff i posted is right on the money
Those are correct facts
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:47 PM   #69
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Ugh, geez c'mon! I never said its not possible and I never said that its always the cylinder wall. But there are multiple people that have gone 700+. Guess what? Some people don't even have a stock motor that survives. Maybe the coyote can't handle 360 rwhp either
No matter how you slice 700 rwhp is not safe on stock internals it is borrowed time and the op wants to know what is "safe". understandably staying stock would be the safest thing to do but there are levels of being safe and all I am saying is that shooting for 700 rwhp is not in the category of safe...600 rwhp in my opinion would be the highest number one could say was relatively safe...of course safe is a relative word....lol...oh and by the with your "smart" response of the stock engines blowing that was a tuning error not an engine problem...that leads me to my final point your car is only as safe as your tune is... You can have 500 rwhp and be less safe than someone who has 600 rwhp with a similar setup if your tuner makes mistakes that is why it is always best to datalog and datalog until your tune is completely dialed in...then make sure you don't get bad gas cause that could make things go boom too lol
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #70
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No matter how you slice 700 rwhp is not safe on stock internals it is borrowed time and the op wants to know what is "safe". understandably staying stock would be the safest thing to do but there are levels of being safe and all I am saying is that shooting for 700 rwhp is not in the category of safe...600 rwhp in my opinion would be the highest number one could say was relatively safe...of course safe is a relative word....lol...oh and by the with your "smart" response of the stock engines blowing that was a tuning error not an engine problem...that leads me to my final point your car is only as safe as your tune is... You can have 500 rwhp and be less safe than someone who has 600 rwhp with a similar setup if your tuner makes mistakes that is why it is always best to datalog and datalog until your tune is completely dialed in...then make sure you don't get bad gas cause that could make things go boom too lol
Obviously it's a tuning problem. The point is that there is always something that could give, even at 360 rwhp. Is it more likely with higher power? Yea, obviously. Will good tuning help prevent this? Yea, obviously, for both the 350 rwhp and the 700 rwhp. It's known that there no such thing as "safe" when boost is involved, and I agree that 600 is a good "safe" power level, but 700 could also be considered "relatively safe" as long as the tune is good and you have billet oil pump gears. Do I recommend it? Hell no. I don't "recommend" and form of FI. I sure don't discourage it either :beer:
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