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Old 03-16-2013, 07:53 AM   #1
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Ford K-Springs

I have a 13 GT w/Brembo package and this car has got to be lowered!! The K Springs came recommended but what else is absolutely required when dropping your ride. Panhard Bar? Camber Bolts? Caster/Camber Plates? I want to order today so I can install over the Spring Break.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:03 AM   #2
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I have a 13 GT w/Brembo package and this car has got to be lowered!! The K Springs came recommended but what else is absolutely required when dropping your ride. Panhard Bar? Camber Bolts? Caster/Camber Plates? I want to order today so I can install over the Spring Break.
really you should do new shocks and struts, I recommend konis, with that drop I would do camber bolts, depending on the year shocks and struts new better strut mounts. Panhard bar is not a must, but yes. lower control arms and relo brackets, upper control arm and bracket.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:08 AM   #3
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I have the "K" springs and love. You will need a adjustable PH bar. Your traction will be worse without doing some other things. You need relocation brackets and LCA's. You can go ahead and get some KONI or whatever you want for shocks/struts. Yes you will need camber bolts. BMR bolts offer a little more degree (2 degree) of adjustment. Yes CC plates are nice but pricey. A must....NO. If you do road course racing then I would look more a CC plates or if you just have the money. Depending on what shock/struts you go with you may and will appreciate looking at GT500 strut mounts.That is if you go with CC bolts. A search on this will give you a wealth of info. With GT500 mounts you would use 05-09 type Koni's for example. Just be sure you run it by one of us what you plan to buy to see if it's the right direction
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:12 AM   #4
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I have to agree with the above responses. PHB, lcas and relocation brackets as well as some KONIS! I would probably do the shocks and struts first, actually I know I would.

The other two posting in this thread know a decent bit about suspension mods so I would definitely listen to them
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:59 AM   #5
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i disagree with everyone above me. no harm intended. but from my experience and my mechanic. i have the same car you have. he said i keep it at 1.5 inches and all i need is some camber bolts and PH bar. all the shocks n struts can be replaced when it is time to replace them. like around some 60-70k miles. you drive a brand new car. the brembo package comes with the shelby lcas anyway and they wont need adjusted with just a 1.5 drop. i have had mine on for about 4k miles. and i drove from cali to illinois in 30 hours. no problems. launched my car numerous times, and when it was up on the lift when they were checking my rear end. had them look at my shocks n struts to make sure no premautre damage was starting. nothing. he said they still looked brand new and were performing well. but he did say that after these go out. which will be sooner then keeping stock height. go ahead and upgrade to better shocks n struts. but for now your car will be fine. anything above 1.5 or maybe 2 you will need some serious suspension upgrades to keep car from falling apart early.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:16 AM   #6
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i disagree with everyone above me. no harm intended. but from my experience and my mechanic. i have the same car you have. he said i keep it at 1.5 inches and all i need is some camber bolts and PH bar. all the shocks n struts can be replaced when it is time to replace them. like around some 60-70k miles. you drive a brand new car. the brembo package comes with the shelby lcas anyway and they wont need adjusted with just a 1.5 drop. i have had mine on for about 4k miles. and i drove from cali to illinois in 30 hours. no problems. launched my car numerous times, and when it was up on the lift when they were checking my rear end. had them look at my shocks n struts to make sure no premautre damage was starting. nothing. he said they still looked brand new and were performing well. but he did say that after these go out. which will be sooner then keeping stock height. go ahead and upgrade to better shocks n struts. but for now your car will be fine. anything above 1.5 or maybe 2 you will need some serious suspension upgrades to keep car from falling apart early.
No one said that dampers must be done now, but that since you have the struts off anyways may as well jut replace them. Dropping the car 1.5" will wear out the stock dampers very quickly and will give a harsher ride quality and will need to be replaced sooner. I have nearly every bolt on suspension mod and I did dampers almost last, if I could do it again I would do dampers first. Wayyyyyy less body roll and brake dive and actually has an operating range that extends below stock ride height.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:40 AM   #7
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I've owned a lot (and I mean a lot) of cars and only keep them a short period of time so keep that perspective in mind. The last 5 have been lowered using only springs. Now the Stang is a different animal, but tomorrow I'm lowering on the FRK's with the FRPH and don't expect anything to "blow up".

Can I do more, yes. Am I going to do it day one, no. Will someone chime in to tell me how I'm going to regret it, hurt the car, etc....probably.

Boils down to this and think of it logically (and I've been guilty of flawed logic before and do value everyone's knowledge on the subject). I'm lowering the car a mere 1.5 inches and increasing stress points, tire wear, etc. For me, and possibly me alone, by the time the impacted parts "wear out" due to the additional stresses, I'll be thinking about moving on to the next one. If they wear out sooner rather than later, I'll adjust my strategy and replace things as needed.

All of this is just one guys opinion and there are a lot more knowledgeable than I on this subject so I'm just throwing it out there to the OP should he want to use my car as his virtual test vehicle since I'm doing almost exactly what he's asking about. Bare minimum to lower on an identical car with the same package.

Thanks all, and always appreciate everyone's perspective/experience, it helps me continually learn.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:42 AM   #8
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No one said that dampers must be done now, but that since you have the struts off anyways may as well jut replace them. Dropping the car 1.5" will wear out the stock dampers very quickly and will give a harsher ride quality and will need to be replaced sooner. I have nearly every bolt on suspension mod and I did dampers almost last, if I could do it again I would do dampers first. Wayyyyyy less body roll and brake dive and actually has an operating range that extends below stock ride height.
Also with that, LCA are still a must. The Shelby LCA are not as good as many after market counter parts. Also since the LCA are level at stock heigh, they will be 1.5" lower where they connect to the frame of the car than where they connect to the axle which means the axle when it digs in doesn't push up against the car but kinda at a funny down angle. You will get worse traction doing this and relocation brackets plus LCA will give you no wheel hop and you'll just stick to the road.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:54 AM   #9
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so what you are saying is that i need to get shocks n struts, rear LCA and relocation brackets?
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:01 AM   #10
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so what you are saying is that i need to get shocks n struts, rear LCA and relocation brackets?
well, shocks and struts will make your ride even smoother and like grabberblue said you will get less body roll with a set of good aftermarket ones. I switched from the stockers to Konis and i was amazed at how much better they were. The stock shocks and struts are garbage, even with stock springs.

LCA and relo brackets are a must if you want better traction and less wheel hop. Like I said currently they are angled so the axle just pushes up into the springs and shocks when it tries to dig in because when it pushes against the frame of the car, it is pushing at a down angle. If you do the relocation brackets it angles it the reverse and when the axle digs in it pushes up into the frame of the car and forward and not just up into the springs and shocks.

EDIT: YOu don't even have to take my word for it, go look at yours. Keep in mind they were level before you lowered, go look at them now. They should be angled from the axle down to the frame now.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:04 AM   #11
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i need just for the rear or for the front as well? bc AM only has one type for my 13 front control arms. and the rear i am about to order LCAs and then relo brackets. ill get the shocks n struts when they go out. then its time to upgrade those.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:09 AM   #12
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i need just for the rear or for the front as well? bc AM only has one type for my 13 front control arms. and the rear i am about to order LCAs and then relo brackets. ill get the shocks n struts when they go out. then its time to upgrade those.
just the rear. Which ones are you looking at?
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:26 AM   #13
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well i have j&m PH bar so im gonna get j&m lower control arms, and bmr relo brackets. good enough?
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:32 AM   #14
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well i have j&m PH bar so im gonna get j&m lower control arms, and bmr relo brackets. good enough?
yessir, just make sure you get poly bushings if it is a DD.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:42 AM   #15
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ok thank you for the info. much appreciatted.
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:58 PM   #16
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ok thank you for the info. much appreciatted.
No problem!
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:31 PM   #17
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Thanks for all your inputs today! Very informative!!
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:49 AM   #18
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i disagree with everyone above me. no harm intended. but from my experience and my mechanic. i have the same car you have. he said i keep it at 1.5 inches and all i need is some camber bolts and PH bar. all the shocks n struts can be replaced when it is time to replace them. like around some 60-70k miles. you drive a brand new car. the brembo package comes with the shelby lcas anyway and they wont need adjusted with just a 1.5 drop. i have had mine on for about 4k miles. and i drove from cali to illinois in 30 hours. no problems. launched my car numerous times, and when it was up on the lift when they were checking my rear end. had them look at my shocks n struts to make sure no premautre damage was starting. nothing. he said they still looked brand new and were performing well. but he did say that after these go out. which will be sooner then keeping stock height. go ahead and upgrade to better shocks n struts. but for now your car will be fine. anything above 1.5 or maybe 2 you will need some serious suspension upgrades to keep car from falling apart early.
Sorry brother but a mechanic knows how to do installs (if he races or competes or has experience I take what I said back), that's about it. His experience as a mechanic doesn't put him behind the wheel of a car.
Putting a higher rate spring on OEM struts and shocks will indeed degrade them much faster. Its not about how low you go on your car its the spring rate. Most often the spring rate on aftermarket springs are too high for OEM struts and shocks to support, this is why a lot of individuals get the "hopping" feel after spring installs.
Also the stock strut mounts are terrible at best, keeping those you will have to replace sooner rather than later.
Many of the opinions that are mentioned on here are not about whether it will work or not but rather trying to explain the driving characteristics that aftermarket parts and combinations perform. You want to get the full performance ability out of your car? Get a shock and strut that can support your springs, throw a set of lighter/ wider wheels and good rubber and you're good to go. I'm a firm supporter of LCA's and UCA especially when lowering your car. If you pick a spring that lowers your car past 1.5 inches it is recommended to put on a set of relo brackets to correct the angle. Likewise with the UCA, you will need to correct the pinion angle of the axle to the driveshaft.
That's one of the reasons I started Hypermotive, too many mechanics who think they know best but have zero practical experience. Just my two cents.
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:12 PM   #19
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Bump.

So to be correct... to lower my 13 Gt on FR k-spring I need the following to eliminate wheel hop and camber/alignment issues?

-Shocks/Struts (preferred not req)
-Rear Lower control Arms with relocation bracket?
-Camber bolts (eibach)
-Panhard bar and relocation bracket?
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:21 PM   #20
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Bump.

So to be correct... to lower my 13 Gt on FR k-spring I need the following to eliminate wheel hop and camber/alignment issues?

-Shocks/Struts (preferred not req)
-Rear Lower control Arms with relocation bracket?
-Camber bolts (eibach)
-Panhard bar and relocation bracket?
Yes except you don't need a relocation bracket for the panhard bar. Just an adjustable panhard bar.

Should add, if you change shocks and struts you will want to look at strut mounts.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:47 PM   #21
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Just did this today. FRK's and FR Panhard. As suspected, it was like Y2K and the end of the Myan calendar......went off without a hitch and nothing happened except I'm now 1.5 lower on all four corners. Rides like a dream.



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Old 03-17-2013, 08:05 PM   #22
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Nice!
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:09 PM   #23
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I love the lava red! Car looks good... NEEDS WHEELS!!
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:36 AM   #24
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Can you use relo brackets with the stock LCAs? Cause that'd be cool.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:38 AM   #25
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Yea but those stamped steel lcas are garbage
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:53 AM   #26
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not sure if there is anything about suspension on this thing. and what you need and what is recommended. and what does what and why. so on and so on. i think someone with more knowledge then myself about all this should make sticky.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:30 PM   #27
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Mods to date: Steeda Cold-Air Intake, Steeda Tune, Pypes Pype-Bomb, Ford K-Springs, Shorty Antenna, Speed Dawg Shift Knob and 15% tint.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:20 PM   #28
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Mods to date: Steeda Cold-Air Intake, Steeda Tune, Pypes Pype-Bomb, Ford K-Springs, Shorty Antenna, Speed Dawg Shift Knob and 15% tint.
Even tho I am not a fan of the GHIG, car looks clean man! What ya have planned next
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