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Old 03-28-2013, 04:15 PM   #1
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Squeaky Right BMR LCA

I installed the bmr lca and lca brakets today and i oiled them 3 shots or presses, then a lot after hearing a squeaky noise was coming from the passenger side everytime there was uneven street. I installed everything good and veryy tight, what could ut be?
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by OzzyLiriano View Post
I installed the bmr lca and lca brakets today and i oiled them 3 shots or presses, then a lot after hearing a squeaky noise was coming from the passenger side everytime there was uneven street. I installed everything good and veryy tight, what could ut be?
You are supposed to rub the poly bushings with grease the first time they get installed. If you didn't do so take them back apart and rub the red bushing with grease a small amount and reinstall.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:37 PM   #3
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Does "very tight" mean you actually torqued them to spec? Very tight can overtighten them easily and damage the bushing or sleeve. This is basic ****, OL.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:10 PM   #4
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Does "very tight" mean you actually torqued them to spec? Very tight can overtighten them easily and damage the bushing or sleeve. This is basic ****, OL.
I think the torque spec is VERY tight, I'm glad I did what nosympathy mentioned, everything is quiet and smooth knock on wood.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:15 PM   #5
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I have the same issue with my passenger side LCA, but from Freedom Racing. Not very loud but I get a good squek every time I go up a driveway.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by gtstyles2 View Post

I think the torque spec is VERY tight, I'm glad I did what nosympathy mentioned, everything is quiet and smooth knock on wood.
149 ft lbs.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #7
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First off, the torque spec required is the one BMR specifies. It's their control arm, hence, their sleeve, bushing, etc. The factory GT500 arm has a really hefty steel sleeve so, heavy pressure can be applied to it.

A lot of aftermarket stuff has more bushing than sleeve b/c you don't need a thick sleeve when your bushing is higher duro. Hence, torque values are different. Mine are UMI and UMI specs 100 lbs/ft.

149 lbs/ft can be easily exceeded by any healthy male with some upper body strength and a good size 1/2 inch 2' cheater bar like one normally uses for applications like this. "very tight" is likely too tight here.

People also over grease poly bushings with the grease gun and hydraulic a nice crack into them over time. That'll make squeaks for sure but, that probably isn't the case here.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
First off, the torque spec required is the one BMR specifies. It's their control arm, hence, their sleeve, bushing, etc. The factory GT500 arm has a really hefty steel sleeve so, heavy pressure can be applied to it.

A lot of aftermarket stuff has more bushing than sleeve b/c you don't need a thick sleeve when your bushing is higher duro. Hence, torque values are different. Mine are UMI and UMI specs 100 lbs/ft.

149 lbs/ft can be easily exceeded by any healthy male with some upper body strength and a good size 1/2 inch 2' cheater bar like one normally uses for applications like this. "very tight" is likely too tight here.

People also over grease poly bushings with the grease gun and hydraulic a nice crack into them over time. That'll make squeaks for sure but, that probably isn't the case here.
I promise you it is because he didn't grease the bushing outsides before installing them. This step is listed in the BMR instructions. I would know I installed mine on Saturday. The poly bushing rubbing against the textured slippery metal of their relocation brackets is going to produce a squeak if you don't have a lube to allow it to move smoothly.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #9
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I don't doubt it. This is basic upgrade stuff, grease bushes properly, use a torque wrench, follow instructions. It's not tuning Weber IDFs by ear here.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:08 AM   #10
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i dont have a torque wrench, i guess i check into that tomorrow, and i did grease the plastic or rubber red part.
Everytime i spray grease it, its quiet, but later during the night it did it again, maybe it is too tight.
Is sears a great place to buy a torque wrencg?
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:22 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by OzzyLiriano View Post
i dont have a torque wrench, i guess i check into that tomorrow, and i did grease the plastic or rubber red part.
Everytime i spray grease it, its quiet, but later during the night it did it again, maybe it is too tight.
Is sears a great place to buy a torque wrencg?
harbor freight if you have one near you. check there website for cupons they usually have them for $10 and are much higher rated than the $40 sears ones.

the ones at harbor freight are lifetime warranty too. Sears torque wrenches were like 90 days if I remember right.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:03 AM   #12
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You won't find a decent torque wrench under a $100, you might as well guess.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:22 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by tc x 4 View Post
You won't find a decent torque wrench under a $100, you might as well guess.
I beg to differ...
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:56 AM   #14
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Even a beam-type torque wrench will get you closer to reality and they can be had very cheap. I have rebuilt engines using a beam-type torque wrench without issues.

I now have an inexpensive 1/2", 3/8" and inch/pound 1/4" + the beam and I use them all the time without issues. Proper storage, i.e. unwound, is important, not dropping them or using them as ratchets makes for longer life and better accuracy.

There is NO excuse for anyone attempting any form of mechanical repair/upgrades to not have this item in the toolbox. It's too important. Over-torquing these bolts, for example, can distort the sleeves, damage the bushings, break the bolts or crack/distort the mounting brackets on the chassis and you really don't want that.

Sorry to be harsh but stop ****ing about and do things right. Your safety is at risk here.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Even a beam-type torque wrench will get you closer to reality and they can be had very cheap. I have rebuilt engines using a beam-type torque wrench without issues.

I now have an inexpensive 1/2", 3/8" and inch/pound 1/4" + the beam and I use them all the time without issues. Proper storage, i.e. unwound, is important, not dropping them or using them as ratchets makes for longer life and better accuracy.

There is NO excuse for anyone attempting any form of mechanical repair/upgrades to not have this item in the toolbox. It's too important. Over-torquing these bolts, for example, can distort the sleeves, damage the bushings, break the bolts or crack/distort the mounting brackets on the chassis and you really don't want that.

Sorry to be harsh but stop ****ing about and do things right. Your safety is at risk here.
Your right bro ill def check it out
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:46 AM   #16
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if I might further suggest if you find you've over-torqued these bolts, if there is no other damage, that you go buy some new ones and replace them.

These fasteners and, all fasteners, have a stretch that provides the needed clamp force. Over do it and that takes away the bolt's stretch and compromises its strength very seriously, like an overstretched rubber band.
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