Quad Headlight Mod - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-28-2013, 02:29 AM   #1
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Quad Headlight Mod

I have searched and didn't find an answer...

I drive a lot at night and would like to mod my headlights to have the low beam stay on all the time when the headlight switch is on, including when the high beams are activated.

I have a 2011, with regular (non-HID) lights.

I have complete this mod with several chuvy's I have owned, and with some its as easy as a medium-size diode off the headlight relay. Although on this car the multiplex wiring could be a huge pain...

Any thoughts.? Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:34 AM   #2
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I've never heard of this mod. Interesting. I do wish their was a way to keep the fog lights on when the high beams are on. I drive through a lot of county road that are pitch black.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:53 AM   #3
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In a Chevy that s fine but I'd assume two filaments would burn way to hot in a single housing. Why not just buy an HID kit? Best $30 I've spent for lights and I drive country
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:04 AM   #4
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There is a way for rigging fog-lights to stay on with your high beams. Mine is that way but I think it's cuz I bought them from AM. Maybe it's HOW they are wired in?
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:14 AM   #5
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I would disagree with the filament issue. Our Accord does this with a single filament, in a single housing. On the $30 iHID filament, I'd like to see in a $0.30 diode would work (save that $29.70 for 4 gallons of gas, lol))
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:10 AM   #6
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i can tell you a quick and easy, no cut way to keep your fog lights on with high beam. There's a lot more complicated ways to do this, that involves messing about with relays and the smart junction box in the interior. My way I figured out is a few feet of stand alone wiring and that's it.

Here it is:

Find a hot 30 amp slot in the fuse panel the hood (there are several, the 30 amps are the little box fuses).
Run that wire around the engine bay and into the interior through the sound tube hole. (Uses a 1-1/16" grommet, IIRC; Fuse this side of the circuit.)

Mount a small SPDT switch somewhere unobtrusively under the dash. (there is a little screw holding the dash panel to the structure near the hood release you can use to mount a little flat stock to hold the switch).

Run the other side of this circuit from the switch out around the bay to the hot side of the foglight power. Tap into the hot side with this wire using a quick tap and tape it off. (You should only need to do one side, as the foglights are off the same wire for both).

How the Ford system works is the SJB switches the power side of the foglight circuit off when highs are selected. When you flip this switch, you replace the power switched off. Now, bear in mind, this is battery power so, you have to remember to turn this off manually or the lights will stay on all the time. I couldn't find a switched power source near the lights or in the interior that I felt I could trust for a high amp load like this so, I went straight to the panel underhood.

Use a little small cable sheathing and you can completely hide this and have it look factory. You can run the wires along the hood release cable for neatness. Do this plus an HID kit on the grille fogs and you'll be happy in the back country.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:00 PM   #7
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Thoughts about using the hot leg off of the highbeam headlight relay to trigger a relay for the foglights?
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:31 PM   #8
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On this topic, on previous 05 year models I was able to modify a relay under the hood (bending one of the 3 prongs) and the fogs would stay on w the high beams. Any thoughts if this is possible on a 2013?
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:36 PM   #9
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Maybe the multiplexed wiring is causing me undeserved stress. Is the multiplexing only on the trigger-side of the relays?
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pegasus2013 View Post
On this topic, on previous 05 year models I was able to modify a relay under the hood (bending one of the 3 prongs) and the fogs would stay on w the high beams. Any thoughts if this is possible on a 2013?
That old trick is gone forever. With SJB control, there's no need for this and as such, it isn't there. Believe me, i went through the wiring diagram pretty thoroughly figuring this one out.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedxGT View Post
Maybe the multiplexed wiring is causing me undeserved stress. Is the multiplexing only on the trigger-side of the relays?
My brain just broke with this comment. haha
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:04 PM   #12
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Exactly. I hate it when I over-complicate things. LOL
I know how car wiring worked up until this next generation of wiring began to be used (each relay had separate wiring going to it). Now, common trigger wiring is used to turn on multiple relays by using some type of identifier, then each has a priority in order of safety. THAT is what is making my simple brain, spin...
So, to break it down... Multiple lights controlled (how you want them) through the new system is not possible. Add on a simple switch from a constant 12v supply to the fog/low beam wire, (with a diode to prevent back feeding?), is the easiest solution?
I think I need a drink.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:15 PM   #13
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Haha my only wiring experience was a 1970 chevelle as 454 then too this. You think your head hurts...this is like going from multiplication math to advanced algorythms.
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:06 PM   #14
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If you're running a hot lead separate like I suggested for the fogs, the diode is unnecessary b/c it's now a separate circuit controlling only this one thing. I expect you could do something similar for the low beam circuit but, I can't verify that Ford cuts the power to that circuit like it does on the fog lights. It could be switching earth. That's usually a European way of doing things, though so, I'd wager against it here. Easy to test for that, of course, just tap the neg side of the low beam first and run a test lead back to battery negative then switch on high and see if the low stays lit. If so, you know that's switched. If not, it's the hot side switched.

Multiplex wiring makes life simpler/cheaper for OEMs but harder for DIY, that's for sure. You think this car's fun, look behind some Volkswagen dashes...all the wires are wee, like 22 gauge and, the same colour. Figure that one out.

*edit* Hold on, just had a thought...I'm an idiot. Dual filament means common earth and 2 powers, 1 for low and one for high so, it has to be switched power. Thus, the proposed solution of providing separate power to the low beam circuit would work. it would also get around the overloading problem on the factory wiring for the headlight as that circuit would only *see* high beam as powered. Might still be a bit much for the bulb base and/or reflector to take the heat though.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:12 AM   #15
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I just hold the lever back with a finger or 2 as needed. I'm lazy and don't want to hack into wiring just yet.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:14 PM   #16
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I converted my v6 over to the GT for the boss look. Picked up the starkey harness that allows my fogs and brights to be on at the same time. Got it from stang mods. Love it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
I converted my v6 over to the GT for the boss look. Picked up the starkey harness that allows my fogs and brights to be on at the same time. Got it from stang mods. Love it.
you have a link to what you got? I see the harness for the v6 converting to the GT but not one that keeps the fogs on during brights?
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:26 AM   #18
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Holding the handle back does not get both filaments in my 2011. It does give you high beam, but the low is switched off.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:04 AM   #19
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Starkey stuff is crazy expensive. My version is cheap and DIY and completely effective.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Starkey stuff is crazy expensive. My version is cheap and DIY and completely effective.
Dat quality though lol

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:21 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by nosympathy View Post

you have a link to what you got? I see the harness for the v6 converting to the GT but not one that keeps the fogs on during brights?
It's the same thing. Not sure what a GT looks like from factory but that's the one I used hence the v6. It's all in the fuses and these 2 boxes along with 2 wire taps.
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