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Old 05-08-2013, 07:29 AM   #36
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I'm pretty surprised nobody has noticed he didn't include a UCA in his build by now ...
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:51 AM   #37
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Looks like a great list so far OP! The only thing I would add ASAP is a one piece aluminum driveshaft. You're making a lot of power right now, let alone when the Procharger is installed down the road. It won't be hard to break the factory driveshaft on a Friday track night with a little traction!

Other than that, I think you have a great setup!

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Old 05-09-2013, 10:46 AM   #38
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I had my car dyno'd before and after and I gained 19 hp from longtubes alone, anyone that says Lt's dont give you a nice hp gain are wrong and definitley worth putting on..!
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:35 AM   #39
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Has anyone messed with corner weight. That is starting to come up now in conversations and unless I'm really going to autocross seriously I really don't think its necessary, what do you guys think?
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:49 PM   #40
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Has anyone messed with corner weight. That is starting to come up now in conversations and unless I'm really going to autocross seriously I really don't think its necessary, what do you guys think?
What do you mean "corner weight"?
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #41
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What do you mean "corner weight"?
Haha I didn't wanna ask cause I thought it must be some big thing I've been in the dark about. Glad it isn't just me.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:47 PM   #42
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It may be... I'm not afraid to ask and look stupid though lol, how else can we learn?
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:51 PM   #43
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It may be... I'm not afraid to ask and look stupid though lol, how else can we learn?
Cause I was waiting for someone to explain it and why it is or isn't good haha.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:55 PM   #44
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Eh, like I said I'm not afraid to look dumb to learn, what's worse is people that pretend to know but really don't (aka a know-it-all)
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:10 PM   #45
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http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...orner-weights/

Google.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:27 PM   #46
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What do you mean "corner weight"?
I was a fabricator on a race truck. We put scales under all four wheels. We would change the springs to increase/decrease the weight of each corner for better handling. That's on a circle track set up, I wouldn't think it would matter on a street/auto x set up besides front to rear
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:38 PM   #47
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Ok, don't think I' going to mess with it than. Thanks
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:46 PM   #48
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I was a fabricator on a race truck. We put scales under all four wheels. We would change the springs to increase/decrease the weight of each corner for better handling. That's on a circle track set up, I wouldn't think it would matter on a street/auto x set up besides front to rear
Interesting.

---------- Post added at 03:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:46 PM ----------

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Eh, like I said I'm not afraid to look dumb to learn, what's worse is people that pretend to know but really don't (aka a know-it-all)
I've never claimed to be a know it all haha.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by brianw64 View Post
I had my car dyno'd before and after and I gained 19 hp from longtubes alone, anyone that says Lt's dont give you a nice hp gain are wrong and definitley worth putting on..!
So you had longtube headers with the factory midpipe and factory catalytic converters? When you say before and after, was this comparison on the same day and same dyno, with little to no change in atmospheric conditions?
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:54 PM   #50
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I've never claimed to be a know it all haha.
I didn't mean it like that at all man! I just meant in general, we've have a few of those come and go on the site... And I know a few in my personal life. I was just making a general comment, nothing geared towards you or really anyone currently on here at all
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:07 PM   #51
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I didn't mean it like that at all man! I just meant in general, we've have a few of those come and go on the site... And I know a few in my personal life. I was just making a general comment, nothing geared towards you or really anyone currently on here at all
You can't talk about my older brother like that.lol
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:11 PM   #52
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You can't talk about my older brother like that.lol
Lol you've got one in the family huh?
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:41 PM   #53
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Lol you've got one in the family huh?
Lol, my brother is a millwright too. We were installing air conditioning units on a GM plant with a helicopter. A guy asked who was gonna fly it, I said well you dumbass don't you know my brother is. My whole crew lost it, seems they know him too.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:12 PM   #54
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Lol, my brother is a millwright too. We were installing air conditioning units on a GM plant with a helicopter. A guy asked who was gonna fly it, I said well you dumbass don't you know my brother is. My whole crew lost it, seems they know him too.
Lol, there's a guy like that I work with... And then when you prove him wrong he says "O well I thought you meant it this other way," lol
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:36 PM   #55
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Anybody running the aluminum driveshaft from AM. Couple other companies taper the driveshaft they say to allow for more clearance on lowered cars. If my car is lowered roughly 1.5 inches all the way around will I have a clearance issue with the AM aluminum driveshaft?
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:34 PM   #56
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Anybody running the aluminum driveshaft from AM. Couple other companies taper the driveshaft they say to allow for more clearance on lowered cars. If my car is lowered roughly 1.5 inches all the way around will I have a clearance issue with the AM aluminum driveshaft?
You gotta worry about exhaust hitting before the driveshaft!
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:33 PM   #57
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I guess what I'm worried about is the clearance of the driveshaft from the car and from the exhaust once the car is lowered.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:51 PM   #58
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I guess what I'm worried about is the clearance of the driveshaft from the car and from the exhaust once the car is lowered.
well the exhaust doesn't sit differently when lowered. You will HAVE to have an adjustable UCA though. There are no if and or buts to that. If you don't have one and are lowered, don't buy the one piece drive shaft.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:11 PM   #59
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If I don't have a UCA will I break the driveshaft or something?
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:17 PM   #60
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If I don't have a UCA will I break the driveshaft or something?
Very possible since your pinion angle will be off. At the least it will cause undue wear on your u joints.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:22 PM   #61
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Ok, thank you, looks like I'm shopping again. I noticed the UCA mentioned earlier, does anyone have a recommendation for a UCA and should I order a new mount too or just the UCA?
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:34 PM   #62
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Ok, thank you, looks like I'm shopping again. I noticed the UCA mentioned earlier, does anyone have a recommendation for a UCA and should I order a new mount too or just the UCA?
Not doing the UCA with a one piece drive shaft can cause bad vibrations which you will feel and will tear everything apart.

For UCA the BMR is great and do the mount. The stock mount is stamped steel garbage and you will get a good clunk noise if you don't replace it too.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:36 PM   #63
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Just get the DSS one.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:35 PM   #64
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UCA and new mount get here Saturday. If I have lowered my car 1.5 inches front and back will a 4 inch driveshaft work or do I need to get the one that is tapered from 4 to 3.5 or should I just get one that is 3.5. Those are the 3 options I have seen.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:47 PM   #65
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UCA and new mount get here Saturday. If I have lowered my car 1.5 inches front and back will a 4 inch driveshaft work or do I need to get the one that is tapered from 4 to 3.5 or should I just get one that is 3.5. Those are the 3 options I have seen.
4" is for the V6? Should be a 3.5"
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:02 PM   #66
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I just looked again on American Muscle and in the description it says their driveshaft is 4 inches. Part number 13953.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:05 PM   #67
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It just depends on the manufacturer. Some make 4" DS and some make 3.5". The biggest difference is structural rigidity vs weight. The larger diameter has better structural rigidity than the 3.5 but will also weigh ever so slightly more. To get the same type of strength out of a 3.5" more material has to be used. Not to say that the 3.5" will fail on you, but it will fail at a lower power level than the 4"
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:08 PM   #68
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It just depends on the manufacturer. Some make 4" DS and some make 3.5". The biggest difference is structural rigidity vs weight. The larger diameter has better structural rigidity than the 3.5 but will also weigh ever so slightly more. To get the same type of strength out of a 3.5" more material has to be used. Not to say that the 3.5" will fail on you, but it will fail at a lower power level than the 4"
Who makes a 4" for the 5.0? All I've seen from everyone is a 3.5" for our cars.

Hell the DSS one holds up to 3450 torque and 1000HP which most of us will never see.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:39 PM   #69
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Who makes a 4" for the 5.0? All I've seen from everyone is a 3.5" for our cars.

Hell the DSS one holds up to 3450 torque and 1000HP which most of us will never see.
Steeda, American muscle, and summit racing all sell 4" shafts, some of the "3.5"" shafts are tapered to 4" anyways. Even some of the DSS shafts are.

I never said it wouldn't hold up to high levels of power, I said it would have a lower failure limit than a 4" assuming they all have the same shaft wall thickness.

By that I mean that a 3.5" shaft vs a 4" shaft, if they are both made of the same aluminum alloy and have the same wall thickness, then the 3.5" will fail at a lower power than the 4" will.

All you have to do is increase the wall thickness proportionally to ensure more strength when needed.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:46 PM   #70
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Alright companies I wasn't going to look at for a driveshaft. My bad on that one.

Though what is funny, is many of the big time companies that make a 3.5" they are rated to hold a higher horsepower rating than the steeda. A 4" driveshaft. I think I remember a debate coming up that the american muscle one was made by steeda, so probably the same.

Either way they hold a much higher horsepower than many of us will achieve. But if I can go with a 3.5" shaft and have it hold better than the 4" on the market. Done.

So assuming all drive shafts were created equal I would agree with you, this doesn't seem to be the case.
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