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Old 07-25-2013, 09:29 AM   #141
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Good Luck with the dealer, hopefully you get some real customer support. Do you have USAA?
Yea I sure do, why?
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:41 AM   #142
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That sucks Dave!! I'm assuming u get the extended warranty?? Hopefully its not your trans :-/
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:07 PM   #143
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^ I had it but sold it back. Factory powertrain warranty is 5 yrs 60k so it's still under factory warranty unless my mods have voided the warranty
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:37 PM   #144
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How many miles do you have???
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:49 PM   #145
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^ I had it but sold it back. Factory powertrain warranty is 5 yrs 60k so it's still under factory warranty unless my mods have voided the warranty
Dave, if you have to buy a trans let me know bro.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:00 PM   #146
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Dave, if you have to buy a trans let me know bro.
Will do, I know that I'll be taken care of
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:27 PM   #147
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How many miles do you have???
48k on a 2011 GT built in late 2010 I think, I'll have to double check the door jamb when I get home
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:35 PM   #148
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48k on a 2011 GT built in late 2010 I think, I'll have to double check the door jamb when I get home
I remember going to service when getting my 1st oil change (and last) they were able to give my a service history of the car and it actually showed my build date... Man I hope your situation is minor, u ever changed your rear gears? Sounds like it could be something like that... U should check your fluid
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:45 PM   #149
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^ I had it but sold it back. Factory powertrain warranty is 5 yrs 60k so it's still under factory warranty unless my mods have voided the warranty
Hate it for you man, hopefully you have a good relationship with your dealer. Never hurts to have someone in your corner. If I had a dealer near me, I'd let them change my oil just to build a relationship.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:03 PM   #150
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I have a decent relationship with them, they changed my oil up until 40k and they never said a word about any of my mods even with other warranty work I've had done
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:11 PM   #151
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I know it was brief but did the sound change at all when you pressed the clutch?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:14 PM   #152
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I know it was brief but did the sound change at all when you pressed the clutch?
The sound went away when I pressed the clutch pedal
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:28 AM   #153
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The guy I bought most of my bolt ons from has had the same issue with his early 2011 car. He's currently "waiting" for a tranny. It's been sitting at the dealer for going on 2 months now. Ford is saying the transmissions are on back order or some crap?

---------- Post added at 06:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 AM ----------

Sounds more like a fly wheel issue tho? The early 2011's had issues with the fly wheel bolts coming loose. I believe there's a TSB for it?
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:52 AM   #154
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While I'd say the flywheel issue is a good thought, remember that it's speed dependent, not rpm dependent. A flywheel issue will be rpm dependent. Hopefully I'm not waiting that long for a trans... Hopefully it's covered under warranty
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:08 AM   #155
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Well...here's the thing. Even if they do repair your transmission, the chances of you having more issues down the road are likely. Since your pretty close to the end of your power train warranty, I would consider saving for a new trans in the event that it fails again after the 12k you have left in you warranty.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:16 AM   #156
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Or buy into an extended warranty? If I'm not mistaken its about a 3rd the price of a loaded tremec xl with a clutch?
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:27 AM   #157
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The sound went away when I pressed the clutch pedal
So if the sound goes away when you press the clutch, wouldn't that mean that it's a good possibility that the problem is the clutch? Unless the noise is caused by the transmission being under load. Which I hope is not the case. I know a clutch would be expensive but I would rather pay for that rather than going through the motions with the dealer trying to get the transmission replaced.

Remember, I've got the same transmission as you and I don't know how you drive yours but I beat the **** outa mine and I've been lucky enough to be problem free so far. I know my clutch is about to kick it but my transmission seams to be holding together well. I hope yours is the same and it's something minor, like the clutch.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:37 AM   #158
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So if the sound goes away when you press the clutch, wouldn't that mean that it's a good possibility that the problem is the clutch? Unless the noise is caused by the transmission being under load. Which I hope is not the case. I know a clutch would be expensive but I would rather pay for that rather than going through the motions with the dealer trying to get the transmission replaced.

Remember, I've got the same transmission as you and I don't know how you drive yours but I beat the **** outa mine and I've been lucky enough to be problem free so far. I know my clutch is about to kick it but my transmission seams to be holding together well. I hope yours is the same and it's something minor, like the clutch.
If it was a clutch issue the noise would be rpm dependent and it's not, it's speed dependent. I've raced mine a handful of times on the track and I beat on with seldom but still drive slightly "radically".

Also if it was at the front of the trans I don't think I'd feel it in the shifter and hear it in the DS. I could be wrong but I think most of that noise would be absorbed by the trans if it was on the front side.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:38 AM   #159
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Well...here's the thing. Even if they do repair your transmission, the chances of you having more issues down the road are likely. Since your pretty close to the end of your power train warranty, I would consider saving for a new trans in the event that it fails again after the 12k you have left in you warranty.
That's what I'm thinking. I want a whole new trans, whether it's under warranty or not, I want them to either replace the whole trans or if warranty work is denied I will buy a whole new trans, I don't feel like I should put a band-aid on a grenade.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:41 AM   #160
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Or buy into an extended warranty? If I'm not mistaken its about a 3rd the price of a loaded tremec xl with a clutch?
No point in buying an extended warranty on a full bolt on car. Plus I had one and I sold it back already. It's gonna suck if I have to buy a new trans but I'll just pick up as much OT as I can (there's plenty in the HVAC industry this time of year, hell yesterday was my first day back after my summer semester ended and I worked 14.25 hrs)
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:32 AM   #161
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@grabberblueGT:

Were you down at Blankenship a few weekends back?
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #162
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Grabberblue5.0: were you at Blankenship a few weekends back?
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:26 AM   #163
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Yea I sure do, why?
They are pretty good if you get addtional coverage. They usually will cover your vehicle where the warranty ends if you use the addtional coverage. I paid like 900 (5 years / 70,00)for my 2013 and the deductable is really low. Might be worth looking into. It's really simular to the factory waranty coverage, but you don't have the issue of the byas dealship. I use both factory and USAA coverage so I usually come out on top.

They have different levels of coverage avalible.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:31 AM   #164
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No point in buying an extended warranty on a full bolt on car. Plus I had one and I sold it back already. It's gonna suck if I have to buy a new trans but I'll just pick up as much OT as I can (there's plenty in the HVAC industry this time of year, hell yesterday was my first day back after my summer semester ended and I worked 14.25 hrs)
That's why I suggested USAA, they don't care if you use Factory parts. They just Cut the check, and you can add moeny or do what every you want. So like all most all Insurrance companies, you can decide to use bettter replacment parts and pay the difference.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:02 AM   #165
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That's why I suggested USAA, they don't care if you use Factory parts. They just Cut the check, and you can add moeny or do what every you want. So like all most all Insurrance companies, you can decide to use bettter replacment parts and pay the difference.
Damn I never knew that... I need to look into it
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:03 AM   #166
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Grabberblue5.0: were you at Blankenship a few weekends back?
Yea man, I know who you are know lol, I didn't know you were on here
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:26 PM   #167
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Unrelated car but when my 240sx throw out bearing took a crap I could feel it in the shifter. I originally though it was my transmission.
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:34 PM   #168
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Unrelated car but when my 240sx throw out bearing took a crap I could feel it in the shifter. I originally though it was my transmission.
Good point, hopefully that's it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #169
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Good point, hopefully that's it.
Well I guess if his warranty will cover a new transmission that would be good too. Lol
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #170
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Haha hopefully, but right now we are all just taking stabs in the dark with what little info I could gather while I was having a mild panic attack about my car lol, hopefully I can give better information in Saturday and I really appreciate everyone chiming in, thanks ladies and gents
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:00 PM   #171
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Unrelated car but when my 240sx throw out bearing took a crap I could feel it in the shifter. I originally though it was my transmission.
Won't a bad TOB prevent you from shifting gears at all?
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:27 PM   #172
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Won't a bad TOB prevent you from shifting gears at all?
I was actually thinking it may be a TOB as well, just because of the fact it goes away we the clutch is pushed in (taking pressure off the TOB).

And nope i drove my ls1 for a few weeks with a bad TOB. Not recommend though, but i had no other choice at the time. Had to get to work. If possible avoid driving it at all, because if it grenades, it could cause alot of damage.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:28 PM   #173
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Won't a bad TOB prevent you from shifting gears at all?
It depends on how it failed. In my case it was broken ball bearings that caused it to tick and then when it got worse, it was more of grinding sound that would go away when I would press the clutch. But your car is too new, having a bad TOB would be kinda unusual.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:55 PM   #174
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Won't a bad TOB prevent you from shifting gears at all?
Na, I've got an old truck that's had a bad tob for 10yrs now. It makes a lot of noise taking off, but it's still going.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:12 PM   #175
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Update:

I lifted the car off the ground and put it in gear, clanking noise turned into a faint clicking noise, maybe only 1/20th the volume of before. We believe it may be the CV joint in the DSS driveshaft that went bad, still unsure because the adapter flange is stuck in the rear diff and cannot get it out to put the stock one back in. Maybe a pulley puller will get it out?
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