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Old 06-11-2013, 05:45 PM   #1
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Order of Suspension Parts Installation

I just got the following for my 2013 GT:

- 4 lowering springs by BMR (1" front and 1.25" rear)
- whiteline rear LCA, UCA, and Panhard (all adjustable)

Did not get any relocation brackets per Jayman33. Should I install the springs first? Does it matter the order of installation since the length of replacement parts are not exactly same as the ones I am replacing?
Panhard goes on last? Wheels should be on ramps when I remove the old one? New one should be adjusted to same length before initial install and adjustment to recenter?

Any guidance or criticism are welcome (less on the latter).
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:46 PM   #2
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I'm curious why jayman recommended against relocation brackets. Was it because he doesn't believe they are functional or because of the issue BMR has been having with them?

Also, if you can swing the cash, I would go ahead and buy some Koni strt dampers too before you install springs.

Otherwise it looks like a great start!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:56 PM   #3
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What I've noticed with the BMR springs or any springs for that matter that only lower about 1.5" or less don't really require relo brackets as long as the LCA's are at least parallel. I too believe struts and shocks are important but I don't think they were in the budget right now for Alkhalil. The koni STR.T just are back in stock now so that's good.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:20 AM   #4
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What I've noticed with the BMR springs or any springs for that matter that only lower about 1.5" or less don't really require relo brackets as long as the LCA's are at least parallel. I too believe struts and shocks are important but I don't think they were in the budget right now for Alkhalil. The koni STR.T just are back in stock now so that's good.
I agree with ya Jason, but even with my p springs I still needed the relocation brackets. Wheelspin was an easy achievement and on level ground my lcas had an upward angle. Not to say his car will be the same necessarily, but even with such a mild drop my car still needed them.

Either way it's a great start for your suspension. This should make your car much more fun in the twisties
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:56 AM   #5
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I agree with ya Jason, but even with my p springs I still needed the relocation brackets. Wheelspin was an easy achievement and on level ground my lcas had an upward angle. Not to say his car will be the same necessarily, but even with such a mild drop my car still needed them.

Either way it's a great start for your suspension. This should make your car much more fun in the twisties
Twisties!!!
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:21 AM   #6
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I agree with ya Jason, but even with my p springs I still needed the relocation brackets. Wheelspin was an easy achievement and on level ground my lcas had an upward angle. Not to say his car will be the same necessarily, but even with such a mild drop my car still needed them.

Either way it's a great start for your suspension. This should make your car much more fun in the twisties
We're you LCA's adjustable? Even then you say you needed the relocation brackets? BTW, thanks for all your feedback. I was hoping to get more info or advice on the questions I posed regarding the steps of installation. Do good.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:46 AM   #7
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We're you LCA's adjustable? Even then you say you needed the relocation brackets? BTW, thanks for all your feedback. I was hoping to get more info or advice on the questions I posed regarding the steps of installation. Do good.
No, I have non adjustable billet UPR lcas. Are yours adjustable? You can use adjustable lcas to correct pinion angle and maybe even the lca angle, but I don't recommend it, at least not as a sole solution to bad suspension geometry. You'll have to rotate the axle alot and it will actually pull the axle forward from its OEM location which will cause a lot of binding and extra stress.

Just to be clear, adjustable lcas are not bad at all, but they are not a fix all by themselves.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
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Grabber is right, Adj LCA's are a last fix solution to correcting your pinion angle..... UCA being your priority. Adj LCA's will correct if your wheel is not centered in the wheel well which has been an increased topic of conversation lately.... especially with the presence of relo brackets.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:33 AM   #9
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Grabber is right, Adj LCA's are a last fix solution to correcting your pinion angle..... UCA being your priority. Adj LCA's will correct if your wheel is not centered in the wheel well which has been an increased topic of conversation lately.... especially with the presence of relo brackets.
Thank to both for your comments. My LCA's are adjustable but not the UCA. I am getting more nervous about how this install will go. Waiting on the lowering springs before I start the project (ouch!)
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:44 AM   #10
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Thank to both for your comments. My LCA's are adjustable but not the UCA. I am getting more nervous about how this install will go. Waiting on the lowering springs before I start the project (ouch!)
You'll be fine. You won't hurt anything by having improper suspension geometry for a short period of time, just make sure you get it corrected sooner than later
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:51 AM   #11
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You'll be fine. You won't hurt anything by having improper suspension geometry for a short period of time, just make sure you get it corrected sooner than later
You should have got a adj uca. Are you sure the whiteline piece in non adjustable?
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #12
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You should have got a adj uca. Are you sure the whiteline piece in non adjustable?
They do make a fixed version
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:19 PM   #13
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They do make a fixed version
Is the fixed piece for lowered applications?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:27 PM   #14
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Whiteline does not make a fixed position UCA. Its a crush tube that is used to allow for adjustment. The arm itself is not adjustable rather the adjustment capability is in the joint. Kamel... give me a call so I can cover your questions.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:45 PM   #15
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Whiteline does not make a fixed position UCA. Its a crush tube that is used to allow for adjustment. The arm itself is not adjustable rather the adjustment capability is in the joint. Kamel... give me a call so I can cover your questions.
Ok that's what I thought. I didn't remember there being 2 versions. Here's my question though. The crush tube doesn't allow as much adjustability as opposed to using turnbuckles like the bmr and steeda piece. So will this present an issue to an average person? When would you need the extra adjustability of a steeda or bmr piece?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:59 PM   #16
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You would be fine. Im lowered 2.5 in the back and have had zero issues getting the correct pinion angle.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:13 PM   #17
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Ah, the uca itself looks fixed, not sure how this crush tube works
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:18 PM   #18
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Ah, the uca itself looks fixed, not sure how this crush tube works
Like magic brother.... like magic!! Lol
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:14 PM   #19
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Like magic brother.... like magic!! Lol
With a mild drop, how necessary is a uca? I understand that it helps, but does it throw the angle that far off?
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:50 PM   #20
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IIRC mine was off something like 1*
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #21
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You would be fine. Im lowered 2.5 in the back and have had zero issues getting the correct pinion angle.
I feel better now about it. Thanks for the offer. I will certainly give you a call before the install. I agree with other stangers that the Whiteline looks fixed, but apparently it's adjustable. I found the following YouTube video for UCA installation, but is the fixed type:
http://youtu.be/C5cE_4hLc-g
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:27 PM   #22
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Get the brackets from whiteline they drop it 3 inches and that's what's needed between 1-1.5 inch drops. I needed them and they helped more then the LCA'S did and I only have a 1 inch drop. As for which to install I'd say 1st suspention , 2nd uca, 3rd LCA'S & panhard ( you'll already have one bolt out)
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:31 PM   #23
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Thank to both for your comments. My LCA's are adjustable but not the UCA. I am getting more nervous about how this install will go. Waiting on the lowering springs before I start the project (ouch!)
I will be having mine done by a local shop due to the tight clearance. So far I've done everything myself but like you I'm nervous. Cost is $90-120 so to me it's worth it to save the headache! Just food for thought. The rest of your list is pretty strait forward.
Good luck!
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:00 PM   #24
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I will be having mine done by a local shop due to the tight clearance. So far I've done everything myself but like you I'm nervous. Cost is $90-120 so to me it's worth it to save the headache! Just food for thought. The rest of your list is pretty strait forward.
Good luck!
Thanks man for the advice and feedback on sequence of installation. I am going to venture into it this weekend and start without the relocation bracket. In that case, I will adjust the LCA's to same length as the stock after removing it. After that I may be looking to buy the reloc brackets and have a shop do. Problem is I don't know of a good shop yet locally in North Jersey. I suppose Pepboys may be Ok? Or Not?
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:03 PM   #25
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Thanks man for the advice and feedback on sequence of installation. I am going to venture into it this weekend and start without the relocation bracket. In that case, I will adjust the LCA's to same length as the stock after removing it. After that I may be looking to buy the reloc brackets and have a shop do. Problem is I don't know of a good shop yet locally in North Jersey. I suppose Pepboys may be Ok? Or Not?
The brackets are easy to do yourself... I was referring to doing the uca at a shop... Brackets with arms already removed would take 20mins at least with the white lines idk about the rest... Good luck with your build your gonna love it once its all together.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:12 PM   #26
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Wat suspension parts are best to buy first? LCA, springs, UCA, shocks? Any thoughts?
By the way it's my DD and I plan to go racing it occasionally.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:27 PM   #27
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Wat suspension parts are best to buy first? LCA, springs, UCA, shocks? Any thoughts?
By the way it's my DD and I plan to go racing it occasionally.
Buy it all at the same time. If you don't, you'll be re-doing stuff that you've already had apart. That is if you can afford to do it all at once. I got struts, shocks, springs, mounts, camber bolts, panhard bar, LCA's and relo brackets all at once. Now I just need an UCA and bracket.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:33 PM   #28
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Buy it all at the same time. If you don't, you'll be re-doing stuff that you've already had apart. That is if you can afford to do it all at once. I got struts, shocks, springs, mounts, camber bolts, panhard bar, LCA's and relo brackets all at once. Now I just need an UCA and bracket.
How much did it cost u and should they be brand specific?
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:59 PM   #29
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How much did it cost u and should they be brand specific?
Spent around $1200-$1300 total. I got Koni STRT's, Eibach Sportlines, GT 500 mounts, and BMR LCA's, relo brackets, and panhard bar. The struts are 05-10 models so that the mounts will work. Didn't see the need for the adjustable struts. Chose the Sportlines cause I wanted more drop than pro's. chose BMR for the rest cause I've only heard good things about them and got all parts in red cause I thought it would look good under a black car. Just research parts and choose what others like, what you like, and what serves your purpose. Mine is also my DD, so yeah I spent the money I had wisely on quality parts I know I could trust.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:29 PM   #30
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How much did it cost u and should they be brand specific?
I have aftermarket springs, shocks, struts, lca, uca and mount, springs, panhard bar and stb. If I could do it all over again I would do the shock and struts first
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:39 PM   #31
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How much did it cost u and should they be brand specific?
BTW, what is your budget right now?
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:00 PM   #32
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I have aftermarket springs, shocks, struts, lca, uca and mount, springs, panhard bar and stb. If I could do it all over again I would do the shock and struts first
I just spent my weekend installing BMR lowering springs, adjustable Whiteline LCA's and panhard. It was painful that if I could afford it, I should also have replaced the struts. All went well including adjusting LCA's and Panhard and the drive was awesome.
So I decided to replace the last part I had, Whiteline upper control arm. Access is not easy when trying to release the tight bolts. But I did it and messed up the installation. I did no adjust the length to the stock that I removed. Instead, after getting the base bracket bolted to the chassis, and while the axle was hanging down, I extended the arm by 1/8" to align the axle mount bolt location. I should have left the arm same length and jack up the axle until the hole align. Now I hear a clunking noise almost every time I change gears, mostly to higher gear. It sounds like the typical drive shaft clunk but sometimes I get doubles clunk noises.
I am guessing the pinion angle is such that the axle is rotated upwards relative to the drive shaft due increasing the upper arm length while the car is jacked up with axle sagging (for ease of installation).

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and welcome. My plan now is to remove it, adjust the length to the stock UCA, and reinstall.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:07 PM   #33
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I just spent my weekend installing BMR lowering springs, adjustable Whiteline LCA's and panhard. It was painful that if I could afford it, I should also have replaced the struts. All went well including adjusting LCA's and Panhard and the drive was awesome.
So I decided to replace the last part I had, Whiteline upper control arm. Access is not easy when trying to release the tight bolts. But I did it and messed up the installation. I did no adjust the length to the stock that I removed. Instead, after getting the base bracket bolted to the chassis, and while the axle was hanging down, I extended the arm by 1/8" to align the axle mount bolt location. I should have left the arm same length and jack up the axle until the hole align. Now I hear a clunking noise almost every time I change gears, mostly to higher gear. It sounds like the typical drive shaft clunk but sometimes I get doubles clunk noises.
I am guessing the pinion angle is such that the axle is rotated upwards relative to the drive shaft due increasing the upper arm length while the car is jacked up with axle sagging (for ease of installation).

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and welcome. My plan now is to remove it, adjust the length to the stock UCA, and reinstall.
Hey man, sorry to tell you but I wouldn't bother with the Whiteline UCA you have. Check this out: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...re-inside.html. I'd remove the UCA and contact Whiteline asap.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:36 PM   #34
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Hey man, sorry to tell you but I wouldn't bother with the Whiteline UCA you have. Check this out: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...re-inside.html. I'd remove the UCA and contact Whiteline asap.
Haha was that the link i posted? My buddy sent that to me. I know mishaps and defects happen with all manufacturers, but that is serious. The worst ive seen from bmr was a bad bushing, which won't create anywhere near the carnage as the actual bracket shattering would. I know 1 time isn't alot, but for me its enough to keep me away from whiteline. I was seriously considering there UCA as well, as ive heard nothing but good things about their LCAs. After seeing this, ill be sticking with bmr.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:59 PM   #35
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BTW, what is your budget right now?
About $2000
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