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Old 06-12-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
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Suspension Installation, any special tools ?

I just bought:

- Koni STR T Struts & shocks
- Eibach Pro Springs
- GT500 Mounts
- LCAs
- LCAs relocation bracket
- Adjustable panhard bar

and will install them this week end.

any special tool or stuff I would need to buy to put this on ?
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:10 PM   #2
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No, but it isn't fun if you don't have an air gun.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:13 PM   #3
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No special tools needed, just make sure you wear your big boy pants.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:16 PM   #4
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Did you find that good deal on a decklid panel??
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post
Did you find that good deal on a decklid panel??
no, I'm about to order a CS replica spoiler, so I'm thinking I should wait to install it to see what decklid I want

do I need to buy any grease or grease gun ? I've had mixed advice on this
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:22 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by GrabberBlue5.0 View Post
No special tools needed, just make sure you wear your big boy pants.
And if you take the strut nut off while still on the car, don't forget to put the jack under the arm I certainly didn't do that. Once.

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cariacou View Post
no, I'm about to order a CS replica spoiler, so I'm thinking I should wait to install it to see what decklid I want

do I need to buy any grease or grease gun ? I've had mixed advice on this
You need a grease gun for the panhard bar. Since you need an alignment I just asked them to grease it for me since I didn't have a gun.
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:02 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by KARgt13 View Post
And if you take the strut nut off while still on the car, don't forget to put the jack under the arm I certainly didn't do that. Once.

---------- Post added at 02:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------



You need a grease gun for the panhard bar. Since you need an alignment I just asked them to grease it for me since I didn't have a gun.
that's 2 very good tips. I actually need an alignment too
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:59 PM   #8
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Just for my own clarification... You don't need a spring compressor to install springs? I thought you needed a compressor to change out springs. I have not even thought about this yet as I thought a shop with a lift was needed. I am able to to some work and have the basics, but don't feel comfortable with springs. Someone please clarify. I can see the other parts such and panhard bar and LCA and UCA needing a grease gun and torque wench. Sorry for my ignorance. This might change my opinion on what I can do on jack stands.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013 Green GT View Post
Just for my own clarification... You don't need a spring compressor to install springs? I thought you needed a compressor to change out springs. I have not even thought about this yet as I thought a shop with a lift was needed. I am able to to some work and have the basics, but don't feel comfortable with springs. Someone please clarify. I can see the other parts such and panhard bar and LCA and UCA needing a grease gun and torque wench. Sorry for my ignorance. This might change my opinion on what I can do on jack stands.
I haven't done it before, but since you're replacing the entire assembly, I don't believe you would need to, unless assembling the aftermarket one requires one..
Either way it's relatively cheap to rent from autozone
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:21 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 2013 Green GT View Post
Just for my own clarification... You don't need a spring compressor to install springs? I thought you needed a compressor to change out springs. I have not even thought about this yet as I thought a shop with a lift was needed. I am able to to some work and have the basics, but don't feel comfortable with springs. Someone please clarify. I can see the other parts such and panhard bar and LCA and UCA needing a grease gun and torque wench. Sorry for my ignorance. This might change my opinion on what I can do on jack stands.
If your car is up on stands, put a jack under the lower arm (someone please tell me the correct name for that) and raise the whole assembly into the air. Then take the strut nut off. You can slowly lower the jack then until there isn't any pressure on the spring. I mean there is a smidge because the strut mounts get stuck but it's not really dangerous at that point. The new struts and springs don't need to be compressed since the new springs are shorter.

And if you don't have an air gun you'll need two wrenches to tighten and loosen the strut nut. Same with the shocks.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:32 PM   #11
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Rent a spring compressor from auto zone, you get all of you money back. You will need the compress the springs to get them on the new struts, and I would NOT recommend using a jack to compress and uncompressed the springs. While it might "work" I would never suggest doing something so unsafe
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:43 PM   #12
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Thanks for the replies. Sounds like some have rented them. What is the average or ballpark figure to rent the compressor for the few hours or day? I just want to make sure, as I am sure the OP, wants to cover all bases. Any general ideas?
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #13
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I got STRT's, sportlines, and GT500 mounts and didn't need a spring compressor. Put them together days before install. Not sure about the pro's though. You might just try it though. I still have my factory pieces fully assembled because I went to Ford and bought new spring isolators and went to Autozone and got dust boots so that I would not have to take apart my old struts. Took me about 4 hrs for total instal of front struts, rear shocks, springs, LCA's and relo brackets and panhard bar. All was done in driveway on jack stands.

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Old 06-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 2013 Green GT View Post
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like some have rented them. What is the average or ballpark figure to rent the compressor for the few hours or day? I just want to make sure, as I am sure the OP, wants to cover all bases. Any general ideas?
The local auto zone charges $50 and lets you rent them for up to 30 days, then they refund every penny when you return them
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:21 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ARfirefighter View Post
I got STRT's, sportlines, and GT500 mounts and didn't need a spring compressor. Put them together days before install. Not sure about the pro's though. You might just try it though. I still have my factory pieces fully assembled because I went to Ford and bought new spring isolators and went to Autozone and got dust boots so that I would not have to take apart my old struts. Took me about 4 hrs for total instal of front struts, rear shocks, springs, LCA's and relo brackets and panhard bar. All was done in driveway on jack stands.

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thanks ! very useful.

and from the pics, I can see that you didn't use more than 2 stands ?

is that the angle of the picture, or did you put them under the fuel tank to lower the rear ?
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:23 PM   #16
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That's gotta just be the angle, there's no way the fuel tank would hold the weight of the car
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #17
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thanks ! very useful.

and from the pics, I can see that you didn't use more than 2 stands ?

is that the angle of the picture, or did you put them under the fuel tank to lower the rear ?
Haha, yeah, fuel tank. They're on the frame rails. And yes, only one pair of stands. Did the front first, it was cake since I already had the struts put together. Then moved to rear which was a little more involved cause all pieces are separate .
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ARfirefighter View Post
Haha, yeah, fuel tank. They're on the frame rails. And yes, only one pair of stands. Did the front first, it was cake since I already had the struts put together. Then moved to rear which was a little more involved cause all pieces are separate .
I see.

but don't you need more than 1 pair of stands ? I feel like things would fall off if I unbolt the struts, shocks or LCAs

I'm an engineer, but not mechanical
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:31 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cariacou View Post

I see.

but don't you need more than 1 pair of stands ? I feel like things would fall off if I unbolt the struts, shocks or LCAs

I'm an engineer, but not mechanical
You do need another stand of some sort to hold up the a-arm once you remove the strut bolts.

Install is pretty straight forward tho. As others have mentioned, its going to be a little bit more of a PITA without airtools. But still doable with some serious elbow grease haha. I did mine on jackstands, but fortunately i had air tools
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #20
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I see.

but don't you need more than 1 pair of stands ? I feel like things would fall off if I unbolt the struts, shocks or LCAs

I'm an engineer, but not mechanical
No. Support frame with stands, then when you go to take off a shock from one side, put your jack under that side of the rear axle. Take shock loose, lower jack enough to swap spring, then lift axle back in place and secure shock. When you move to the LCA's you might have to pull forward on the axle to get bolts in the holes but its not that bad. Put the front bolts in first then you can pull on the axle and line up the bolt in the relo brackets. On the front, support frame with stands and use jack under front control arm to support it. Mine was done with hand tools only and took roughly 4 hrs. I have air tools, just not a big enough air compressor.

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Old 06-13-2013, 07:39 AM   #21
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Rent a spring compressor from auto zone, you get all of you money back. You will need the compress the springs to get them on the new struts, and I would NOT recommend using a jack to compress and uncompressed the springs. While it might "work" I would never suggest doing something so unsafe
I stole my idea from late model restoration haha they did an article on it. But as for the new struts, you don't need a spring compressor for lowering springs at all since they are shorter, it fits right in the car. To get them off the car safely, yes you need one. That's just from my experience though. I don't know if that's true for everyone.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:23 AM   #22
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I stole my idea from late model restoration haha they did an article on it. But as for the new struts, you don't need a spring compressor for lowering springs at all since they are shorter, it fits right in the car. To get them off the car safely, yes you need one. That's just from my experience though. I don't know if that's true for everyone.
I can see what you're saying about the springs but my p springs were still long enough that I required spring compressors to get the springs to a short enough length to get them on the strut and install the strut mount. Maybe not all springs require it but I would still recommend the OP picks some up just in case he need them, if his local parts store is like mine he will receive a full refund for the rental upon return
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:19 PM   #23
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Lowered my 13 with Eibach pro kit, BMR Panhard, Eibach LCA's and BMR Relo's and Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates not shown. Love the look and handling ride is a little stiffer but that should be expected.



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Old 06-14-2013, 04:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 13StangGT View Post
Lowered my 13 with Eibach pro kit, BMR Panhard, Eibach LCA's and BMR Relo's and Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates not shown. Love the look and handling ride is a little stiffer but that should be expected.



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I almost have the same kit about to go in. do you feel the need to add a UCA ? I'm still debating on it...
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:10 PM   #25
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I don't think I need to everything feels right. I am going to try to get time this weekend to jack it up and check everything for tightness and alignment again just to be on the safe side. I did everything myself so just want to double check.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:26 PM   #26
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I don't think I need to everything feels right. I am going to try to get time this weekend to jack it up and check everything for tightness and alignment again just to be on the safe side. I did everything myself so just want to double check.
thanks.
for the record, I was missing a couple tools and had to go buy them/
- 15mm wrench & 6mm wrench -- needed for the rear shocks
- 17mm wrench & 18mm socket or wrench -- needed for the front strut support arm (the 17mm nut is behind, tight to the thread. you can also unitght it from the thread with a 10mmsocket/wrench & a 18mm wrench)
- a thin, long & wide open wrench + 9mm wrench for removing the strut mount. (you will need to hold the nut while putting a wrench on the thread to unscrew it).
- 18mm wide & thin socket, 15mm wide & thin socket for both 1/2 and 3/8 wrenches: general mustang purposes. good investment if you work on your car, the vast majority of bolts are 15 and 18
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