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Old 07-10-2013, 07:46 AM   #1
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Anyone have these headers?

I'm thinking about getting these headers which says the cats are removed when these are installed...and borla recommends that you use it for only racing or off road use...my questions are is there anyone who has these headers from borla with the borla s-type catback system on their 2012 GT?...my GT is my daily driver also...so would the headers w/ the removed cats and s type exhaust be a good move for me? I'm in FL so I don't think the emissions stuff matters..

Here's the link to the headers

http://www.borla.com/products/mustan...rt__17263.html
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:00 AM   #2
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Ive always heard borlas are great and sound great. And I would also like to run a set like this one day. They are just so expensive I did see this set up on am. Couldn't tell if they were the same headers tho. I don't believe so. But a cat back and headers. Then at your6% forum discount. Your looking at about 2300.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:01 AM   #3
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Sorry.m here's the pic
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:06 AM   #4
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Kooks or stainless worls are much better than borla, sound... size and fitment. Cost is similar.

---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 AM ----------

Kooks or stainless works are much better than borla, sound... size and fitment. Cost is similar.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:16 AM   #5
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Yeah. My buddy has stainless but said he thinks they are a tad to loud for him. So if he sells. Imma have to jump all over them. Trying to get rid of the roush as we speak.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:25 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post
Kooks or stainless worls are much better than borla, sound... size and fitment. Cost is similar.

---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 AM ----------

Kooks or stainless works are much better than borla, sound... size and fitment. Cost is similar.
Thanks for that bit of info, ill definitely look into it...can a kooks or stainless works header be used with a borla s-type catback system? I already have the catback installed
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangin87 View Post

Thanks for that bit of info, ill definitely look into it...can a kooks or stainless works header be used with a borla s-type catback system? I already have the catback installed
from what I've heard they need to be Kooks / Looks - Borla / Borla for midpipe to header
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #8
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might have a problem connecting the mid pipe to the header
completely ignore that..... lol should fit fine.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:10 PM   #9
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Yes, any header/ mid pipe combo will work with the borla system. I'm running Kooks headers and H pipe with my Borla's.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:27 PM   #10
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Yes, any header/ mid pipe combo will work with the borla system. I'm running Kooks headers and H pipe with my Borla's.
LT?
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #11
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Correct, any LT/ mid pipe combo will fit a cat back system unless its stated otherwise. Hope this helps!
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:10 PM   #12
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Correct, any LT/ mid pipe combo will fit a cat back system unless its stated otherwise. Hope this helps!
Alright thanks jay!
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:38 PM   #13
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Jay is correct. I also have the kooks LT headers with the Kooks boss 302 h-pipe and sidepipes. It is a beast. You would not be disappointed with Kooks. They are some of the best quality headers I have seen. They are like a work of art. lol
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:49 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by striker79 View Post
Jay is correct. I also have the kooks LT headers with the Kooks boss 302 h-pipe and sidepipes. It is a beast. You would not be disappointed with Kooks. They are some of the best quality headers I have seen. They are like a work of art. lol
Yeah I'm anxious too see how they sound with the borla s-type catbacks....
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:05 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Stangin87 View Post
Yeah I'm anxious too see how they sound with the borla s-type catbacks....
They should sound pretty ba. I wonder if it would be too loud with the s-type catback being a straight pipe. Funny enough, the kooks headers and h-pipe actually made my RTRs quieter. It sounds stealthy. It's pretty cool. Then I can open the sidepipes if I wanna be a bat outta hell.

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 PM ----------

Only thing I would recommend is not installing them yourself. If you can find a shop to do it for less than $700, I would do it. Installing the headers on this car is the absolute hardest addition I have done so far. It easily took me 24 hours, but that was in my garage on jack stands.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:07 PM   #16
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I have stainless works LT's and ORX and fit and finish is great. They are bolted up to my stock OTA pipes with FRPP sport axlebacks, and the sound is heavenly. If more power is what you have in mind, save your money for something else. But I love the look of them and the sound of them.

Fwiw I wouldn't pay anyone more than $100 to install them, Stryker, if you paid $700 for installation then you get scammed. While I agree it was a huge PITA I wouldn't spend that much letting someone else do it for me. Hell I'd do it for someone if they paid me $200, and I also did mine on a garage floor on jackstands.

All in all I really enjoy my LT's and would do it again if I had too
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:27 PM   #17
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I have stainless works LT's and ORX and fit and finish is great. They are bolted up to my stock OTA pipes with FRPP sport axlebacks, and the sound is heavenly. If more power is what you have in mind, save your money for something else. But I love the look of them and the sound of them.

Fwiw I wouldn't pay anyone more than $100 to install them, Stryker, if you paid $700 for installation then you get scammed. While I agree it was a huge PITA I wouldn't spend that much letting someone else do it for me. Hell I'd do it for someone if they paid me $200, and I also did mine on a garage floor on jackstands.

All in all I really enjoy my LT's and would do it again if I had too
I certainly didn't pay $700 to get them done. I was just saying that if you don't have all the tools and goodies like a air compressor, impact wrench, deep well sockets, and flexible racheting wrenches it may be a better option to pay someone. All the tools that make the job bearable can add up.

I tell ya, that top starter bolt is the biggest pita.

It may also be a bit easier to install some of the LTs other than kooks. Kooks is a mid length design so there is more room needed to maneuver them in place, especially 1 7/8 piping.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:01 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by striker79 View Post

I certainly didn't pay $700 to get them done. I was just saying that if you don't have all the tools and goodies like a air compressor, impact wrench, deep well sockets, and flexible racheting wrenches it may be a better option to pay someone. All the tools that make the job bearable can add up.

I tell ya, that top starter bolt is the biggest pita.

It may also be a bit easier to install some of the LTs other than kooks. Kooks is a mid length design so there is more room needed to maneuver them in place, especially 1 7/8 piping.
Yea, $700 is wayyy to much, I used all hand tools and they everything you need can be bought for ~$150 including beer! :beer: I'm glad to hear you didn't pay that much lol, average cost I hear is $350-450.

Yea that top starter bolt is a huge PITA, but with a buttload of extensions it wasn't too bad, I personally thought that the hardest bolts were the top passenger side header bolts, not to mention a four of the stock manifold studs had to be removed on each side to get the headers on. I had the 1 7/8" stainless works, they weren't easy lol, but it sounds like I had a much easier time than you, it only took me about 11 hrs of work time
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:23 AM   #19
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Yea, $700 is wayyy to much, I used all hand tools and they everything you need can be bought for ~$150 including beer! :beer: I'm glad to hear you didn't pay that much lol, average cost I hear is $350-450.

Yea that top starter bolt is a huge PITA, but with a buttload of extensions it wasn't too bad, I personally thought that the hardest bolts were the top passenger side header bolts, not to mention a four of the stock manifold studs had to be removed on each side to get the headers on. I had the 1 7/8" stainless works, they weren't easy lol, but it sounds like I had a much easier time than you, it only took me about 11 hrs of work time
Wow. I could only wish it would have taken me 11 hours. Even after lifting the engine up, due to the shape of the Kooks headers, I had to lower and remove all the bolts on the K-member. I definitely didn't factor having to do that. I just wanted to be able to slide them in, but the bolts that hold up the crossbar under the transmission kept getting in the way. I have vowed that my next mod will be a car lift. lol.

I actually didn't have too hard of a time with the passenger bolts. They are a lot easier with flexible ratcheting wrenches. The only header bolt I had trouble with was the far back driver side top header bolt. I kid you not, it literally took me 1.5 hours to get that bolt in. The kooks headers just didn't leave enough room to put a socket or ratchet over the bolt. I had to use long needle nose pliers in combination with a open end wrench. I would have to switch tools each slight turn to the bolt because when I used the wrench, it just didn't turn enough at first to leave room to use it on the next turn. TOTAL PITA, but so glad it's done.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:51 AM   #20
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I always drop the K member. Honestly takes 30 minutes to do the K member and will cut your install time in half.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:18 AM   #21
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I didn't have to drop the k member, but it probably wouldve gone faster if I did... O well lol
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:33 AM   #22
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I wasn't planning on dropping it, and I didn't have anyone to help, so I just lowered it enough to slide the headers in.
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