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Old 07-21-2013, 10:34 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Evil2014GT View Post

I don't know allllll to much about the different sways for our cars, simply because I have no need to upgrade now. The stock sways are actually very good, and most people don't bother replacing them unless the are turning the car very hard on the street or auto xing. Sways are personally be the LAST suspension mod on my list, even after a torque arm since im building mine more for normal street cornering and launching in the1/4 mile.

Some things you want to look for to determine quality vs price on any suspension part are:

-Material used
-Quality of welds.
-Weight
-Bushing type (some are stronger, some are quieter)
-although it has nothing to do with the part, i highly recommend to keep the companies customer service in mind. If you ever run into trouble with a part, its nice to know the company will back their product.
Exactly what I needed to hear. Stuff like that. Quality of welds, weight. Man that stuff didn't even come to mind. Since I'm new to this kinda stuff. I go for names I have heard and don't know if its exactly the good stuff.

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

Another thing I know I need to keep in mind is not only what I get. But who does the work as well. I don't wanna go to any shop and say I need this put on and they don't have a first clue of what it is I hand them.

---------- Post added at 10:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by primer2tone View Post

I've only spent $1,600. That's coilovers, adjustable pan hard bar, rear lca's & upper. $2,000 if you include my MGW shifter. That's not suspension but man it sure did improve the drive.
I believe some of that stuff is included in what I want to get. Although if not and needs to be included. I would definitely consider coil overs. But from my research those are included in these packages I'm looking at.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:42 AM   #37
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I've only spent $1,600. That's coilovers, adjustable pan hard bar, rear lca's & upper. $2,000 if you include my MGW shifter. That's not suspension but man it sure did improve the drive.
What coilovers did you get? Most of the ones that I've seen start around $2k and climb rapidly to $5k.
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:43 AM   #38
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What coilovers did you get? Most of the ones that I've seen start around $2k and climb rapidly to $5k.
BC Racing BR Type Coilovers. $999.00

http://bcracingsuperstore.com/produc...05-up-mustang/

They are quite, they are tight, they eliminate the stock upper strut mount and replace it with a pillow ball camber adjustable mount. I am really happy with these. You can preload the springs to whatever stiffness you like. I like a pretty tight suspension so I've got my front springs preloaded to about 7mm vs daily application is set around 4mm. Also the strut has a 32 position dampening level adjustment and naturally I'm set at 24 clicks towards hard.

Oh, and to give you an idea on how low it is. At the highest setting in the rear, I had to remove the bump stops.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:22 PM   #39
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BC Racing BR Type Coilovers. $999.00

http://bcracingsuperstore.com/produc...05-up-mustang/

They are quite, they are tight, they eliminate the stock upper strut mount and replace it with a pillow ball camber adjustable mount. I am really happy with these. You can preload the springs to whatever stiffness you like. I like a pretty tight suspension so I've got my front springs preloaded to about 7mm vs daily application is set around 4mm. Also the strut has a 32 position dampening level adjustment and naturally I'm set at 24 clicks towards hard.

Oh, and to give you an idea on how low it is. At the highest setting in the rear, I had to remove the bump stops.
My buddy has those on his sti and swears by them... BC makes great products
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:33 PM   #40
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My buddy has those on his sti and swears by them... BC makes great products
So far so good.
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:39 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by primer2tone View Post

BC Racing BR Type Coilovers. $999.00

http://bcracingsuperstore.com/produc...05-up-mustang/

They are quite, they are tight, they eliminate the stock upper strut mount and replace it with a pillow ball camber adjustable mount. I am really happy with these. You can preload the springs to whatever stiffness you like. I like a pretty tight suspension so I've got my front springs preloaded to about 7mm vs daily application is set around 4mm. Also the strut has a 32 position dampening level adjustment and naturally I'm set at 24 clicks towards hard.

Oh, and to give you an idea on how low it is. At the highest setting in the rear, I had to remove the bump stops.
$1000 for coil overs???? Wished i knew about these before i started all my suspension mods! Although if yours sits that low primer, it may be to much for me considering mines my daily driver.
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:32 AM   #42
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$1000 for coil overs???? Wished i knew about these before i started all my suspension mods! Although if yours sits that low primer, it may be to much for me considering mines my daily driver.
Adjustable ride height you can slam it if u want or lower it minor
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #43
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Adjustable ride height you can slam it if u want or lower it minor
I know that, but he said, at the highest point, he still had to remove the bump stops.... So even at the kits highest point thats still very low.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:43 PM   #44
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Yeah it sits pretty low but my tires are pretty thin too. I'm rolling on my stock wheels right know and it's not too bad.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:02 PM   #45
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Yeah it sits pretty low but my tires are pretty thin too. I'm rolling on my stock wheels right know and it's not too bad.
At the highest point of the coilovers about how how much did it drop it?
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #46
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About 2 inches maybe two and a quarter.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:12 PM   #47
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About 2 inches maybe two and a quarter.
Ahh ok..interesting! Thanks primer!
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:20 AM   #48
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About 2 inches maybe two and a quarter.
That's way too much for me. I can barely get around with a GT/CS fascia and a 1.5f/1.0r drop.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:49 AM   #49
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I built my suspension strictly on a budget and for the purpose of the occasional track day but mostly street. I've got 400$ in koni srt.t shocks/struts/gt500 mounts, 215$ in sr 1.5in drop springs/j&m panhard bar. That's 600$ total and made a HUGE difference in ride quality, stance, and performance driving. Plus it eliminated that STUPID wheel hop crap! Next is rear lower control arms (wihich I'm buying used), relocation brackets, and upper adjustable control arm. All UPR products. UPR makes good stuff that's MADE IN THE USA and is reasonably priced. If traction wasn't such and issue now I'd leave the car alone
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:00 PM   #50
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I built my suspension strictly on a budget and for the purpose of the occasional track day but mostly street. I've got 400$ in koni srt.t shocks/struts/gt500 mounts, 215$ in sr 1.5in drop springs/j&m panhard bar. That's 600$ total and made a HUGE difference in ride quality, stance, and performance driving. Plus it eliminated that STUPID wheel hop crap! Next is rear lower control arms (wihich I'm buying used), relocation brackets, and upper adjustable control arm. All UPR products. UPR makes good stuff that's MADE IN THE USA and is reasonably priced. If traction wasn't such and issue now I'd leave the car alone
$600 isn't bad at all. How long have you had the mods? And what kind of wheels and tires do you have. Your call looks sick.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:28 PM   #51
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For a few months now. The whelks are 20x9in Shelby razors with 255/35/20 falken fk 452's. I got the wheels off Craig's list for 600$. They had bfg's but they were HAD!
If you go with koni shocks/struts try to catch them on there yearly sale. That will save you $$. Also I recommend doing springs/shocks/struts/mounts all at the same time to save tearing the suspension apart multiple times. Also the 2011 and up front strut mounts are one time use only (junk). My fronts are 05-10 spec
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:36 PM   #52
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For a few months now. The whelks are 20x9in Shelby razors with 255/35/20 falken fk 452's. I got the wheels off Craig's list for 600$. They had bfg's but they were HAD!
If you go with koni shocks/struts try to catch them on there yearly sale. That will save you $$. Also I recommend doing springs/shocks/struts/mounts all at the same time to save tearing the suspension apart multiple times. Also the 2011 and up front strut mounts are one time use only (junk). My fronts are 05-10 spec
Yea I don't wanna do one thing at a time. I want to get the best possible things within a good price range and do my wheels and tires and handling mods at once so I don't have to go back and get an alignment if I change my mind and get my wheels and tires afterwards. And your car doesn't look to low or to high. That's how I would like mine. I'm assuming you hook really good off the line too with those tires right? Is this your daily driver?
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:36 PM   #53
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I built my suspension strictly on a budget and for the purpose of the occasional track day but mostly street. I've got 400$ in koni srt.t shocks/struts/gt500 mounts, 215$ in sr 1.5in drop springs/j&m panhard bar. That's 600$ total and made a HUGE difference in ride quality, stance, and performance driving. Plus it eliminated that STUPID wheel hop crap! Next is rear lower control arms (wihich I'm buying used), relocation brackets, and upper adjustable control arm. All UPR products. UPR makes good stuff that's MADE IN THE USA and is reasonably priced. If traction wasn't such and issue now I'd leave the car alone
That's the exact suspension set up I'm going with! I just need the shocks & struts now & ill be ready to install!!
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:39 AM   #54
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Yea I don't wanna do one thing at a time. I want to get the best possible things within a good price range and do my wheels and tires and handling mods at once so I don't have to go back and get an alignment if I change my mind and get my wheels and tires afterwards. And your car doesn't look to low or to high. That's how I would like mine. I'm assuming you hook really good off the line too with those tires right? Is this your daily driver?
I use mine as my daily driver. 100+ miles, 5 days a week. My setup is koni str.t dampeners, Steeda ultralite springs, maximum motorsports cc plates, j&m panhard bar, and bmr lcas and relo brackets. For wheels im running 19x8.5 in the front with a 275/40/19 tire, and in the rear 19x10 with a 305/35/19 tire. I have no issues whatsoever. Car feels the way a vehicle like this should. Not to harsh, and doesnt have that sloppy feel it did stock. Alignment is spot on as well.
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #55
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I use mine as my daily driver. 100+ miles, 5 days a week. My setup is koni str.t dampeners, Steeda ultralite springs, maximum motorsports cc plates, j&m panhard bar, and bmr lcas and relo brackets. For wheels im running 19x8.5 in the front with a 275/40/19 tire, and in the rear 19x10 with a 305/35/19 tire. I have no issues whatsoever. Car feels the way a vehicle like this should. Not to harsh, and doesnt have that sloppy feel it did stock. Alignment is spot on as well.
See I like how your setup is different brands. I keep thinking it all has to be the same. The wheels I want are 20 inch and from what I have seen they don't offer any other sizes. I think that is too big of a wheel.
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Old 07-26-2013, 01:38 PM   #56
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See I like how your setup is different brands. I keep thinking it all has to be the same. The wheels I want are 20 inch and from what I have seen they don't offer any other sizes. I think that is too big of a wheel.
No not at all. Some people like to stick with the same brand, but its not necessary. I buy parts that fit my budget, need, driving habits and performance level the best. I will however be sticking with BMR when i buy my UCA, and if i had to do it over again, probably would have spent the extra $30 on the BMR panhard bar, over the J&M, as i get a little extra NVH with it. As far as rims/tires go, im with you. I think 20s look a liiiitle big, and 19s look perfect. But honestly again, if i knew then, what i know now i might have gone with 20s. For two reasons. Good sticky tires in the size i want to run are much harder to find/sell with 19s then 20s. And 19s are much more expensive. Only downside to 20s is a little added wait, and a slightly bumpier ride, since you will have a smaller profile.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:05 PM   #57
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Yes mine is a daily driver and no reactions is an issue rite now. The car spins rolling on the gas in second gear. And I have 3.31's. my rear lower control arms are pointing the wrong way now. I'm getting ready to install upr rear lower ca's w/ relocation brackets. Then install an adjustable upper ca set at -3.0 deg pinion angle. This should help traction quite a bit.
My tires are summer only and although there WAY better than the stock all seasons they don't hook on the strip! I'm buying separate wheels/tires for the track. Just the rears for now
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:06 PM   #58
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No not at all. Some people like to stick with the same brand, but its not necessary. I buy parts that fit my budget, need, driving habits and performance level the best. I will however be sticking with BMR when i buy my UCA, and if i had to do it over again, probably would have spent the extra $30 on the BMR panhard bar, over the J&M, as i get a little extra NVH with it. As far as rims/tires go, im with you. I think 20s look a liiiitle big, and 19s look perfect. But honestly again, if i knew then, what i know now i might have gone with 20s. For two reasons. Good sticky tires in the size i want to run are much harder to find/sell with 19s then 20s. And 19s are much more expensive. Only downside to 20s is a little added wait, and a slightly bumpier ride, since you will have a smaller profile.
And that's the killer man. The added weight. I didn't know 19s would be more expensive either. The roush wheels I seem come in only 20s. But the thing is is that I want the Ford Racing Handling Package and I'm not sure if those wheels would work for that one.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:07 PM   #59
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TRACTION not reaction
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #60
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And that's the killer man. The added weight. I didn't know 19s would be more expensive either. The roush wheels I seem come in only 20s. But the thing is is that I want the Ford Racing Handling Package and I'm not sure if those wheels would work for that one.
The weight gain is minimal. Your probably talking an extra 10 lbs per wheel. So unless your trying to squeeze everything you can outta it i wouldn't worry about it to much. Just keep in mind a smalled profile tire will also break loose faster since the sidewall is stiffer and doesnt have a lot of give. The FRPP package will work perfectly fine with 20s or 19s.
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:06 PM   #61
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TRACTION not reaction
I'm sorry I don't understand what it is you are trying to say. Could you elaborate? Not trying to sound like a smart ***. Newbie here.

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------

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The weight gain is minimal. Your probably talking an extra 10 lbs per wheel. So unless your trying to squeeze everything you can outta it i wouldn't worry about it to much. Just keep in mind a smalled profile tire will also break loose faster since the sidewall is stiffer and doesnt have a lot of give. The FRPP package will work perfectly fine with 20s or 19s.

Do you think that's the best package to get? Or should I look at some different ones? I honestly would prefer to buy a package because it seems like to me they are proven to work together. Then once I can start telling the difference in things I can say ok I think it's time for some coil overs or something like that.
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:22 PM   #62
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1+ tuner will make it worse. Start by transferring power to the wheels and to the ground. Suspension and wheel tire package is where you should start. Then look at which parts will give you the most gain for the $$$$. Exhaust, tuner, then intake manifold/cai.

Warning! Once you start with performance upgrades it's hard to stop. Addictive like crack....
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:21 PM   #63
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I'm sorry I don't understand what it is you are trying to say. Could you elaborate? Not trying to sound like a smart ***. Newbie here.

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------



Do you think that's the best package to get? Or should I look at some different ones? I honestly would prefer to buy a package because it seems like to me they are proven to work together. Then once I can start telling the difference in things I can say ok I think it's time for some coil overs or something like that.
Fair enough. Im personally not a fan or FRPP so this is what i would get for sure

This kit comes with LCAs, relo brackets, UCA, and mount. absolute must for lowered cars, and better traction.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=169


As far as a lowering package goes, i honestly wouldn't get any of them because they come with regular or gt500 strut mounts with camber bolts, and i believe in getting new cc plates. But if i had to pick one it would probably be this because I could just buy cc plates separately

http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html

Again, i think this kit is a waste, because IMO and on my car i dont need upgraded swaybars. The stockers are plenty for me.

I would strongly advise you to buy the first BMR kit, and then buy springs, dampeners, and cc plates separately. You will end up with a much better performing car, probably will save some money, and not have to buy parts you dont need or want (unless you do want swaybars).
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2014 Mustang GT Base MT82 -Stock 3.73s, Roush axleback, Steeda 93R tune, Steeda Hi-flow X-pipe, 19" Charcoal AMR's, smoked front and rear side markers, 20% tint, quarter window louvers, Steeda Ultralite springs, Koni Str.t shocks/struts, MM camber plates, J&M adjustable panhard bar, BMR LCAs and relo brackets, Barton shifter and 2-post bracket, Black Modern Billet Grilles
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:11 PM   #64
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Fair enough. Im personally not a fan or FRPP so this is what i would get for sure

This kit comes with LCAs, relo brackets, UCA, and mount. absolute must for lowered cars, and better traction.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=169

As far as a lowering package goes, i honestly wouldn't get any of them because they come with regular or gt500 strut mounts with camber bolts, and i believe in getting new cc plates. But if i had to pick one it would probably be this because I could just buy cc plates separately

http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html

Again, i think this kit is a waste, because IMO and on my car i dont need upgraded swaybars. The stockers are plenty for me.

I would strongly advise you to buy the first BMR kit, and then buy springs, dampeners, and cc plates separately. You will end up with a much better performing car, probably will save some money, and not have to buy parts you dont need or want (unless you do want swaybars).
That BMR kit says its only for 2005-2010 Gts. So the sway bars are the only thing that hold you back and the sway bars are what push me to get the kits. But I do like the part of saving money lol. So you have sway bars on your car already?
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:25 PM   #65
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That BMR kit says its only for 2005-2010 Gts. So the sway bars are the only thing that hold you back and the sway bars are what push me to get the kits. But I do like the part of saving money lol. So you have sway bars on your car already?
Damn your right, sorry i posted the wrong link, and I cant seem to find the package for 11-14. If you call them im sure they will hook it up for you. They have great customer service. I know the lcas are the same 05-14 but the UCA is different.
If you want sways then i would go with the Eibach kit, and then get cc plates separately. I still think there are better options out there, but as far as kits go, it seems right for you. Eibach makes good stuff, just not my first choice personally.
And no, i haven't upgraded swaybars. For me, the stock sways are plenty good. But im not doing any extreme cornering. Sways are last on my list.... And that's if they even make the list haha
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #66
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I'm also on stock sways. I did my suspension before anything! The car WAY over powered the base suspension and brakes. Then I did a shifter because that to is junk stock. I'd stay away from FRPP suspension parts. There adjustable shocks/struts are just marked up re labeled tokeco d specs which have been know to have issues with the adjusting knobs. I'm my opinion the koni's are the best bang for buck! Specially if you get them on sale. You can get all 4 yellow adjustables for under 600$ and the street non adjustables for around 400$
I'm not a huge fan of ibach. There adjustable sways are OK but I'd spend my $$ on bmr, upr, whiteline, steeda... I want USA made parts on my car so I'm going with UPR upper (adjustable)and lower rear control arms and relocation brackets next.
You will need an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end when lowered and an adjustable rear upper control arm to correct pinion angle. If you drop more than about 1inch in the rear the pinion angle will need adjusted to prevent chewing up the pinion seal/bearing and to better plant the rear end.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:25 PM   #67
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I'm also on stock sways. I did my suspension before anything! The car WAY over powered the base suspension and brakes. Then I did a shifter because that to is junk stock. I'd stay away from FRPP suspension parts. There adjustable shocks/struts are just marked up re labeled tokeco d specs which have been know to have issues with the adjusting knobs. I'm my opinion the koni's are the best bang for buck! Specially if you get them on sale. You can get all 4 yellow adjustables for under 600$ and the street non adjustables for around 400$
I'm not a huge fan of ibach. There adjustable sways are OK but I'd spend my $$ on bmr, upr, whiteline, steeda... I want USA made parts on my car so I'm going with UPR upper (adjustable)and lower rear control arms and relocation brackets next.
You will need an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end when lowered and an adjustable rear upper control arm to correct pinion angle. If you drop more than about 1inch in the rear the pinion angle will need adjusted to prevent chewing up the pinion seal/bearing and to better plant the rear end.
Agreed. UPR makes great stuff as well. I had UPR everything on a few previous cars, with this car i decided to try BMR again. Couldn't be happier. Cant go wrong with BMR or UPR.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #68
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My two cents: Just about every Mustang here can be put on the track, drag or road course. If you do a little research you will see that a lot of folks have taken their Pony to the 1/8th or ¼ mile track stock. So to have both, of a drag and street, well you already have it.

Everyone here is right in what they have posted, you could go for suspension, then power, or just the opposite. It’s all about what your intended goal is for speed. Do you want a Pony that is over 500 HP, 600HP or higher. You could build your Pony to be fully naturally aspirated (NA) (meaning no supercharger, installing full exhaust, Boss intake manifold, etc.) or you can add a supercharger and then add in the new headers and such down the road. What is cheaper depends on what you want (brand) and who installs the mods.

Personally I went with a Ford Racing 525 HP Supercharger kit, and yes it gains me about as much as a NA built Pony. After research I felt that the supercharger was the better deal. IMO! Later down the road I can do the LT headers and such.

However, before installing the supercharger I did have the Ford Racing Handling Pack (suspension) installed. I’m happy were I’m at with my 5.0 and I can still add more power.

It’s all about your budget and what you really want to do, is your Pony a daily driver. I can tell you most everyone does the exhaust first. Then goes from there. I don’t recall if anyone mentioned it but getting a new CAI will probably gain you nothing in HP. Most will tell you that the stock intake is just as good if not better. Save your money on that and the tune until you install something that really requires a tune.

Bottom line to all of this, is doing your research and feeling comfortable with what you are doing. It becomes very costly if you do something and don’t like it.

Anyway just my two cents. Good luck, look forward to seeing what you do with her.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:38 PM   #69
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Definitely want something AM. I guess it just boils down to personal preference at this point about brands. I just have to experiment with different ones. I mean we all agree suspension is a good way to start and we all agree on what parts are the way to go. (Finally ppl agree on here lol) unfortunately experimenting with this hobby can be very costly. Some like BMR. others like Koni. I don't know which I like because I have never used any of the sort. But what I can say is you guys are guiding me down the right path on what to look for and what to ask for. How much should labor on mods like this cost?
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:47 PM   #70
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Definitely want something AM. I guess it just boils down to personal preference at this point about brands. I just have to experiment with different ones. I mean we all agree suspension is a good way to start and we all agree on what parts are the way to go. (Finally ppl agree on here lol) unfortunately experimenting with this hobby can be very costly. Some like BMR. others like Koni. I don't know which I like because I have never used any of the sort. But what I can say is you guys are guiding me down the right path on what to look for and what to ask for. How much should labor on mods like this cost?
Yeah unfortunately this one thread won't answer all your questions, but a good start. You will have to do research on brands and parts. Same with labor. By a local shop, dealer or DIY it is all going to very. There are so many threads about brands parts and installs. You should be able to find ball park figures so you know what to expect when you start looking. Another point is to search other forums not just ME, there are folks out there that have their favorite places to post and there are tons of info. My suggestion find the first mod research it and look for videos on YT as well. You can also go to car shows or cruise ins to talk with people see and hear what they have.
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