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Old 07-18-2013, 08:45 PM   #1
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Is this possible?

Hi guys. First timer so go easy. I have a 2011 Mustang GT with no mods. I want to build my mustang to be a balance between road and drag. We all get to that red light with someone egging you on to see if you can take them. I'm sure we also like to see how fast we can take turns and curves. So my first question of many is a build like this possible? If so, what should be my first mod? Wheels and tires? Handling package? CAI? Etc. I have searched and everything I read leans to drag or road. Never both.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:58 PM   #2
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I'm more of an off the line type, mustangs aren't built for curves in my "opinion" I do not recommend smashing through curves. I'm personally done with appearance mods and now in focused more on performance. And #1 on my list is a Tuner, pretty much everything you mentioned is effected by the Tuner and won't give you much value without it...

My list :
1) Tuner

2) Full Exhaust

3) Handling Mods with New Tires

4) 4:30 gears

Good luck and be careful out there, it only takes a split second for someone to step out in the street or merge over in your lane. I mostly Ignore anybody trying to rev at me except for those that wanna ride your bumper.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:17 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Black8thElement View Post
I'm more of an off the line type, mustangs aren't built for curves in my "opinion" I do not recommend smashing through curves. I'm personally done with appearance mods and now in focused more on performance. And #1 on my list is a Tuner, pretty much everything you mentioned is effected by the Tuner and won't give you much value without it...

My list :
1) Tuner

2) Full Exhaust

3) Handling Mods with New Tires

4) 4:30 gears

Good luck and be careful out there, it only takes a split second for someone to step out in the street or merge over in your lane. I mostly Ignore anybody trying to rev at me except for those that wanna ride your bumper.


Agreed. Probably made it sound like I'm a speed demon or arrogant and race ALL the time. I like to rev and watch them take off and I just laugh. But I do like to beat on it every now and then. Who doesn't? Ok. So tuner would be first. Any suggestions? And when you say full exhaust, what do you mean FULL?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #4
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Long Tube Headers, O/R mid pipe, axle backs ... Opening her up with no restrictions and better air flow.... *these are not street legal* except for the axle backs of your choice. but you can get high flow catalytic converts to get around that or purchase A cat-back system.

You can always search engine here and finding substantial info or go to AM and they have a complete guide breaking down your car and what you need to know "to know" what you're looking for.

Then also I don't know how long you plan on keeping her, if your plan on trading up don't put alot of money into it. I plan on keeping my baby until the wheels burn off.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Black8thElement View Post
Long Tube Headers, O/R mid pipe, axle backs ... Opening her up with no restrictions and better air flow.... *these are not street legal* except for the axle backs of your choice. but you can get high flow catalytic converts to get around that or purchase A cat-back system.

You can always search engine here and finding substantial info or go to AM and they have a complete guide breaking down your car and what you need to know "to know" what you're looking for.

Then also I don't know how long you plan on keeping her, if your plan on trading up don't put alot of money into it. I plan on keeping my baby until the wheels burn off.
Well she is bought and paid for so it's ALL MINE. I would still like to drive it on the street though. So first thing is first then. Tuner and exhaust.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:54 PM   #6
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Tuner for sure, yea I would do exhaust after that then I would drop her, get a good suspension underneath you, better rear tires , then go with an aggressive gear ratio that fits you. Most will tell you 4.10 is a good balance honestly, I want a tad bit more gear when my time comes.

As far as the tuner goes, if you have the money you can always buy a brand new SCT tuner for like $379. Me personally I wouldn't spend that much even if I did have the money, you can find a used tuner for a good price and just pay SCT to unlock it for you then program it your Stang. It would be less of a headache to buy an used unmarried tuner but those can get up there with the brand new ones so sometimes it doesn't make sense. When buying a tuner try to keep it under 325 atleast for everything that's from buying it used, then paying $150 to sct for unlocking it, and then buying custom tunes. If you spend more than that for a handheld tuner you got screwed bro. Your best bet is to find a Sct 3015 or 3000 model the 3015 comes pre-loaded with dyno tested tune that won't Hurt you car but it wouldn't maximize your performance like a custom tune. 3000 is a tuner that will need custom tunes added to it these normally shouldn't cost more than a 3015. "Sorry for the ramble" lol
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:40 PM   #7
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If you want to carve some corners, I can offer some tips on suspension. I would work on that before adding more power. These cars are pretty quick stock, but the suspension is pretty wimpy.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon85 View Post
If you want to carve some corners, I can offer some tips on suspension. I would work on that before adding more power. These cars are pretty quick stock, but the suspension is pretty wimpy.
Seems like Element has me covered on making more power. I would like to hear more about suspension too.

---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black8thElement View Post
Tuner for sure, yea I would do exhaust after that then I would drop her, get a good suspension underneath you, better rear tires , then go with an aggressive gear ratio that fits you. Most will tell you 4.10 is a good balance honestly, I want a tad bit more gear when my time comes.

As far as the tuner goes, if you have the money you can always buy a brand new SCT tuner for like $379. Me personally I wouldn't spend that much even if I did have the money, you can find a used tuner for a good price and just pay SCT to unlock it for you then program it your Stang. It would be less of a headache to buy an used unmarried tuner but those can get up there with the brand new ones so sometimes it doesn't make sense. When buying a tuner try to keep it under 325 atleast for everything that's from buying it used, then paying $150 to sct for unlocking it, and then buying custom tunes. If you spend more than that for a handheld tuner you got screwed bro. Your best bet is to find a Sct 3015 or 3000 model the 3015 comes pre-loaded with dyno tested tune that won't Hurt you car but it wouldn't maximize your performance like a custom tune. 3000 is a tuner that will need custom tunes added to it these normally shouldn't cost more than a 3015. "Sorry for the ramble" lol
It's all good info sir. So would you suggest just getting a custom tune instead? Or wait till I mod the engine more?
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:39 AM   #9
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Hi guys. First timer so go easy. I have a 2011 Mustang GT with no mods. I want to build my mustang to be a balance between road and drag. We all get to that red light with someone egging you on to see if you can take them. I'm sure we also like to see how fast we can take turns and curves. So my first question of many is a build like this possible? If so, what should be my first mod? Wheels and tires? Handling package? CAI? Etc. I have searched and everything I read leans to drag or road. Never both.
I'm kind of going for appearance first too. Butttttt. I just bought suspension for both appearance and performance. When you get on it. Do you spin?? Does you back end get out from under you?? Probably yes to both of those. So you already have more power than you can handle. Set up a good suspension and/or fatter wheels first so you can handle the power. Put a tune on there and you will feel your car hit puberty instantly (from what I've heard). But if your already spinning with what you got. Then it's only gunna get worse. I half to not order my tune dang near every day. Because I want to finish my suspension first. And I've heard countless amount of people say they wish they would have started with suspension and then added the power. Plus our 4x4 mustangs look great dropped. Lol.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:42 AM   #10
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I'm kind of going for appearance first too. Butttttt. I just bought suspension for both appearance and performance. When you get on it. Do you spin?? Does you back end get out from under you?? Probably yes to both of those. So you already have more power than you can handle. Set up a good suspension and/or fatter wheels first so you can handle the power. Put a tune on there and you will feel your car hit puberty instantly (from what I've heard). But if your already spinning with what you got. Then it's only gunna get worse. I half to not order my tune dang near every day. Because I want to finish my suspension first. And I've heard countless amount of people say they wish they would have started with suspension and then added the power. Plus our 4x4 mustangs look great dropped. Lol.
Again. All my option and stuff I've read. I currently have suspension waiting for a off day to install. ;;dance;; and if your not looking for drop. Then really fatter wheels and control arms will help dramatically with that spinning.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #11
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So a handling package and wheels and tires first guys??
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:22 AM   #12
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Yeah, I would say handling mods first specially if you like slicing thru curves. Also mentioned by someone already this car has plenty of power so unless you have outgrown its power already, I would explore its power limit first.

Lastly, with more power you still need good handling mods to properly use it or enjoy it.

Drive safe and don't text and drive.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:09 AM   #13
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Yeah, I would say handling mods first specially if you like slicing thru curves. Also mentioned by someone already this car has plenty of power so unless you have outgrown its power already, I would explore its power limit first.

Lastly, with more power you still need good handling mods to properly use it or enjoy it.

Drive safe and don't text and drive.
No I actually haven't outgrown it. Just out performed it I would say. Thx for all the input guys. So handling and exhaust it is. No sir I will not and don't ever text and drive. Thx for the help.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:15 AM   #14
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Before anyone makes any recommendations as to what suspension you should get, we will need to know a few things:
  1. What is your intended use for the car? (street only, autox, road course, drag)
  2. How tolerant are you to increased NVH? (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness)
  3. What's your budget?

This will help us with wheel and tire recommendations as well, but there are some additional questions for that:
  1. Do you drive the car in the rain and/or snow?
  2. How many miles would you expect out of your tires?
  3. Once again, budget?
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:36 PM   #15
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Again. All my option and stuff I've read. I currently have suspension waiting for a off day to install. ;;dance;; and if your not looking for drop. Then really fatter wheels and control arms will help dramatically with that spinning.
they even included a dog? dam thats,pretty awesome
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Napoleon85 View Post
Before anyone makes any recommendations as to what suspension you should get, we will need to know a few things:
[*]What is your intended use for the car? (street only, autox, road course, drag)[*]How tolerant are you to increased NVH? (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness)[*]What's your budget?


This will help us with wheel and tire recommendations as well, but there are some additional questions for that:
[*]Do you drive the car in the rain and/or snow?[*]How many miles would you expect out of your tires?[*]Once again, budget?
All good questions.

OP, I don't recommend buying a used sct if it's locked. I still have my old sct from my last car and its locked, by the time I have it unlocked and buy tunes for life + shipping, I'm only gonna save $50. And I know it's a good one, buying one from a stranger is a risk I wouldn't take to save $50.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:46 PM   #17
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OP my best advice is write down five mods you want to work on flip a quarter and let fate decide for you because you will get answers for eternity ... Do what's best for you bro these are all suggestions. Everybody has different roads to travel to get to where they want their ride to get too ... Good luck with your build bro
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Black8thElement View Post
OP my best advice is write down five mods you want to work on flip a quarter and let fate decide for you
Or ... you could do your research on what effect each part has, talk to people who have already spent years modding these cars, and install complimentary mods in a logical order.

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Old 07-19-2013, 02:03 PM   #19
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Or ... you could do your research on what effect each part has, talk to people who have already spent years modding these cars, and install complimentary mods in a logical order.

^ agreed
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Napoleon85 View Post
Before anyone makes any recommendations as to what suspension you should get, we will need to know a few things:
[*]What is your intended use for the car? (street only, autox, road course, drag)[*]How tolerant are you to increased NVH? (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness)[*]What's your budget?


This will help us with wheel and tire recommendations as well, but there are some additional questions for that:
[*]Do you drive the car in the rain and/or snow?[*]How many miles would you expect out of your tires?[*]Once again, budget?


*I would say I am going to use it on the street more than anything else. On a rare occasion like birthday or something on the road course.

*For now it's a daily driver until I find a 2nd vehicle I like so I would like to keep the noise all three of those in a tolerable level

*I have $2500 to spend on a handling package and labor

*I live in Texas so snow scares all of us and we don't drive lol. So nope I will not drive it in the snow. If I get caught in the rain I would like to still be able to drive my car if I so happen to be using it at the time

*Since its going to be my daily driver I would like to get a decent amount of miles out of my tires. Although I don't know how long a good performance tire lasts it really doesn't matter. Obviously I don't want to have to change tires every 3 months.

*Budget for tires and wheels is around $2000. Although I seen a set of roush wheels and tires I wanted for $2700 but didn't buy them because I want to know more before I did.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:09 PM   #21
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OP, I also like having a blistering off-the-line with the ability to really tackle turns. That said, I'm too poor to really build mine out at this point, but if I were to start over at stock...

Suspension first:
-Control arms, upper and lower. Wheel hop is a pain, especially on a brembo car.
-Springs or coilovers (you'll need a new panhard bar to recenter the axle)
--At this point? might as well do the sway bars and suspension bushings. Really tie the car to the asphalt.

I'd say that's the extent of suspension work I'd do without a forged rim and stickier rubber.

Power 2nd:
-Tuner or find a place willing to do good custom tune work with a dyno. The rest of your power mods aren't worth a crap without a tune.
-Exhaust. Long tubes are ok, but I hear the real gains are to be had by just getting a catless X or H pipe. Most guys (and I think Napoleon up there) roll a catless midpipe with some GT500 axlebacks.
-Boss intake manifold
-Aluminum driveshaft
-Gearing. I have 3.73s, so I wouldn't be swapping mine out at this point.
---and when ~450ish HP isn't enough, time for a supercharger or a shot of nitrous. Or both >

Other things to consider:
If you have a manual, look into a short throw shifter.
If an automatic, a stall converter might be a good idea.
Brakes might need to be upgraded at some point.
Oil catch can or some breathers are a good idea.


...The beauty of the Mustang community is that we all have a different idea of what we'd build, given the time and money. Do your thing, ask for opinions, and ask questions (after searching the forum for the answer...good chances are, we've beaten that horse to death a few times already)
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:29 PM   #22
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For what you're doing, I would consider the following setup:

Koni STR.T struts and shocks
Springs of your choice (a lot of people go with Eibach or Steeda springs)
GT500/FRPP strut mounts
!!Do all three of these at the same time!! - The factory strut mounts are a one-time use part and will break after being disassembled. It's also much easier since you can just assemble the parts and swap them all at the same time, then let everything settle and get an alignment.

After you let the spring settle and get an alignment, look into:

Upper control arm and mount (adjustable to correct pinion angle from lowering springs)
Lower control arms
Lower control arm relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the rear suspension after lowering)

I just posted a write-up on control arms in this section, you might want to check it out for some more detailed info.

Finally I would pick up a decent set of swaybars. It's up to you whether you want to spend the $$$ on adjustables, but if I was doing a street only car, I wouldn't.

Once all that is done, I would look at the brakes. If you don't have Brembos, get some. You can find take off calipers cheap, then get SS lines, flush the fluid, and get some good pads like Hawk HPS (those wont make it on the track though). Don't waste your money on drilled/slotted rotors, unless you want them to look cool.

That should eat up the majority of your budget. If you want specific part recommendations, shoot me a PM. What I recommend isn't always from a "supporting vendor" so I can't post it publicly.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:00 PM   #23
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Op, Coilovers. I ****ing love my coilovers. It completely changed the characteristics of the car. It no longer feels clumsy when I'm entering a corner. But it is a firm ride but I kinda like the track car feel.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:00 PM   #24
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Op, Coilovers. I ****ing love my coilovers. It completely changed the characteristics of the car. It no longer feels clumsy when I'm entering a corner. But it is a firm ride but I kinda like the track car feel.
But coilovers are $$$$ and I don't think they fit in the OPs budget. They are awesome if you have the cash for them though.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Napoleon85 View Post
For what you're doing, I would consider the following setup:

Koni STR.T struts and shocks
Springs of your choice (a lot of people go with Eibach or Steeda springs)
GT500/FRPP strut mounts
!!Do all three of these at the same time!! - The factory strut mounts are a one-time use part and will break after being disassembled. It's also much easier since you can just assemble the parts and swap them all at the same time, then let everything settle and get an alignment.

After you let the spring settle and get an alignment, look into:

Upper control arm and mount (adjustable to correct pinion angle from lowering springs)
Lower control arms
Lower control arm relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the rear suspension after lowering)

I just posted a write-up on control arms in this section, you might want to check it out for some more detailed info.

Finally I would pick up a decent set of swaybars. It's up to you whether you want to spend the $$$ on adjustables, but if I was doing a street only car, I wouldn't.

Once all that is done, I would look at the brakes. If you don't have Brembos, get some. You can find take off calipers cheap, then get SS lines, flush the fluid, and get some good pads like Hawk HPS (those wont make it on the track though). Don't waste your money on drilled/slotted rotors, unless you want them to look cool.

That should eat up the majority of your budget. If you want specific part recommendations, shoot me a PM. What I recommend isn't always from a "supporting vendor" so I can't post it publicly.
Sounds perfect to me... Although if you are using the car on a track, and planning on driving on the street as well, I would maybe recommend an adjustable dampener. That way you can have it nice and firm on the track, and soften it up a bit for the street.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:42 PM   #26
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Sounds perfect to me... Although if you are using the car on a track, and planning on driving on the street as well, I would maybe recommend an adjustable dampener. That way you can have it nice and firm on the track, and soften it up a bit for the street.
If you want adjustables they are the next best thing to cook orders, but still twice as much as the coil overs. I have koni yellows/sports and they're great.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:19 AM   #27
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If you want adjustables they are the next best thing to cook orders, but still twice as much as the coil overs. I have koni yellows/sports and they're great.
Ok. So what about those handling packs they sell that come with everything? Like the ford racing or roush or steeda? Would those be suitable? And wouldn't they be proven to work already?
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:44 AM   #28
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Your gunna need camber plates and panhard bar. If you drop more than an inch. And neither of those come in most packages that I've seen. Could be wrong tho. I perfer to piece my beast together with exactly what I want. I didn't see a package that had what all I wanted in it for a decent price.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:49 AM   #29
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Your gunna need camber plates and panhard bar. If you drop more than an inch. And neither of those come in most packages that I've seen. Could be wrong tho. I perfer to piece my beast together with exactly what I want. I didn't see a package that had what all I wanted in it for a decent price.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...assembled.html


Yes sir. All that comes in this package.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:08 AM   #30
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http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...assembled.html

Yes sir. All that comes in this package.
Ehh honestly there are better parts out there for about the same price. If you are going to be doing a lot of hard cornering and racing i agree with tpost, and look into getting some maximum motorsports or steeda cc plates. Much stronger than the gt500 strut mounts. Honestly if it was me building a corner carving beast, while keeping the budget in mind, here is what i would get with approximate pricing:

-springs of your choice $260
-adjustable dampeners if auto xing $750
Koni str.t non-adjustable if just for street
$420
-MM or steeda cc plates $330
-Adjustable panhard bar $130
-UCA and mount $350
-LCAs and brackets $250
-Front and rear sway bars w/ end links
$425

That would put you around $2100 total with non-adjustable dampeners. Only $400 more then that kit you were looking at, but your getting much better parts IMO.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:44 AM   #31
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I'm lowered about 1.5"in the front and don't need plates. Camber is just barely out of spec, tires wear fine.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:51 AM   #32
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I'm lowered about 1.5"in the front and don't need plates. Camber is just barely out of spec, tires wear fine.
My camber was just barely out as well, but I just feel if i was building a car to really corner hard, i personally would want something stronger, and that will probably last me a long time. Hence the reason why i bought them i guess haha.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:02 AM   #33
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Man you guys know a WHOLE LOT I have no idea about. That being I love all the suggestions and will order parts based on feedback and reviews. Of course in the end I might end up swapping one part for another. Another question I have is how do you know the difference between one brands sway bar to another? What should I be looking for when its installed?
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #34
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Man you guys know a WHOLE LOT I have no idea about. That being I love all the suggestions and will order parts based on feedback and reviews. Of course in the end I might end up swapping one part for another. Another question I have is how do you know the difference between one brands sway bar to another? What should I be looking for when its installed?
I don't know allllll to much about the different sways for our cars, simply because I have no need to upgrade now. The stock sways are actually very good, and most people don't bother replacing them unless the are turning the car very hard on the street or auto xing. Sways are personally be the LAST suspension mod on my list, even after a torque arm since im building mine more for normal street cornering and launching in the1/4 mile.

Some things you want to look for to determine quality vs price on any suspension part are:

-Material used
-Quality of welds.
-Weight
-Bushing type (some are stronger, some are quieter)
-although it has nothing to do with the part, i highly recommend to keep the companies customer service in mind. If you ever run into trouble with a part, its nice to know the company will back their product.
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:48 PM   #35
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But coilovers are $$$$ and I don't think they fit in the OPs budget. They are awesome if you have the cash for them though.
I've only spent $1,600. That's coilovers, adjustable pan hard bar, rear lca's & upper. $2,000 if you include my MGW shifter. That's not suspension but man it sure did improve the drive.
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