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Old 08-01-2013, 01:16 AM   #1
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1pc Aluminum Driveshaft Options

So I think my next upgrade is an alum 1 PC driveshaft. The 3 most popular options I see is the following:

American Muscle @ $769.99 http://www.americanmuscle.com/2011-g...riveshaft.html
Shaftmasters @ $624.99 http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v5.html
The Driveshaft shop @ $799.99 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...earance-issues

Any opinions on these or other brands? Is one model / design better than the other? I used the search feature but really didn't find what I was looking for. I'm trying to decide between doing this OR the Boss IM, any opinions on this decision?
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:16 AM   #2
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I have the DSS and from my research it appears to be the top of the line drive shaft. Now would you notice the difference driving? probably not but I haven't driven with all three so its merely speculation. . But I do like the fact that they are balanced up to 9k rpm and their unique cv joint design that makes it to where you don't have to adjust pinion angle. That sets them apart from the rest IMO.

I say DSS and I know a lot of people here feel the same. Don't forget a safety loop!
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:03 AM   #3
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For the gt I'd go with

http://www.axle-exchange.com/inc/sdetail/82/247

---------- Post added at 05:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:58 AM ----------

A buddy of mine runs this 4" axle exchange DS in his 9 second 2011 5.0 with slicks

---------- Post added at 06:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 AM ----------

Also I believe grabberblue5.0 had his DSS shaft fail recently. The cv part of the shaft failed. Not sure as to why? Would have to ask him. I do know DSS is working on a carbon fiber unit much like the gt500 has. Not sure as to when it will be released if not already?
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:49 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by doug5.0 View Post
So I think my next upgrade is an alum 1 PC driveshaft. The 3 most popular options I see is the following:

American Muscle @ $769.99 Mustang Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft (2011-2014 GT) MAMT011 - Free Shipping!
Shaftmasters @ $624.99 Ford Mustang 2011-2014 Aluminum Driveshaft 3.5" V8 GT Direct Bolt-In
The Driveshaft shop @ $799.99 The Driveshaft Shop | FORD 2011-14 Mustang GT and BOSS 302 6-Speed manual 1-Piece Aluminum Shaft with CV 900HP 3-1/2 Aluminum / 1350 has no clearance issues - Ford - Domestic Driveshafts

Any opinions on these or other brands? Is one model / design better than the other? I used the search feature but really didn't find what I was looking for. I'm trying to decide between doing this OR the Boss IM, any opinions on this decision?
All of these options are going to be great. They're all in the same ball park price wise and they're all one piece aluminum driveshafts! I have the Driveshaft shop on my 2011 GT and have absolutely no complaints. It makes acceleration a lot faster and definitely cuts .02/.03 off of your quarter mile time slips!

I would recommend going with a 1-piece driveshaft and the Boss manifold at some point! The order you complete this process in doesn't really matter, they're both must have mods on the 2011+ GT's IMO.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions or need some assistance in the near future. If you have any questions, just hit my CS team up. You can reach them at the number in my signature!

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Old 08-01-2013, 10:04 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by doug5.0 View Post
So I think my next upgrade is an alum 1 PC driveshaft. The 3 most popular options I see is the following:

American Muscle @ $769.99 http://www.americanmuscle.com/2011-g...riveshaft.html
Shaftmasters @ $624.99 http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v5.html
The Driveshaft shop @ $799.99 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...earance-issues

Any opinions on these or other brands? Is one model / design better than the other? I used the search feature but really didn't find what I was looking for. I'm trying to decide between doing this OR the Boss IM, any opinions on this decision?
I went with the DSS aluminum shaft as well. It was easy to install, and is known to be the better design because of the CV joint. It does transfer power smoother than the stock 2 piece. It will also handle 900 HP and doesn't need the pinion angle to be adjusted on lowered cars.
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ThinBlueLine
I have the DSS and from my research it appears to be the top of the line drive shaft. Now would you notice the difference driving? probably not but I haven't driven with all three so its merely speculation. . But I do like the fact that they are balanced up to 9k rpm and their unique cv joint design that makes it to where you don't have to adjust pinion angle. That sets them apart from the rest IMO.

I say DSS and I know a lot of people here feel the same. Don't forget a safety loop!
+1 on the DSS. Been running mine for about 6k miles now and no problems. Top of the quality drive-shaft. Like Blue said, they balance theirs up to 9,000 RPM. Only drive-shaft company I know of that balances it that high.
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:27 AM   #7
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Thank you all for the replies, the input is appreciated!!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:27 PM   #8
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For the gt I'd go with

http://www.axle-exchange.com/inc/sdetail/82/247

---------- Post added at 05:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:58 AM ----------

A buddy of mine runs this 4" axle exchange DS in his 9 second 2011 5.0 with slicks

---------- Post added at 06:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 AM ----------

Also I believe grabberblue5.0 had his DSS shaft fail recently. The cv part of the shaft failed. Not sure as to why? Would have to ask him. I do know DSS is working on a carbon fiber unit much like the gt500 has. Not sure as to when it will be released if not already?
Every product will have failures in its production line. I'm sure axle exchange has had it's fair share. Axle exchange front u joint(1330) isn't as beefed up as the DSS one(1350) and the driveshaft isn't rated for as much hp as the DSS. Also, they already make a carbon fiber shaft for the gt. have had it for over a year.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ThinBlueLine View Post
I have the DSS and from my research it appears to be the top of the line drive shaft. Now would you notice the difference driving? probably not but I haven't driven with all three so its merely speculation. . But I do like the fact that they are balanced up to 9k rpm and their unique cv joint design that makes it to where you don't have to adjust pinion angle. That sets them apart from the rest IMO.

I say DSS and I know a lot of people here feel the same. Don't forget a safety loop!
I got my one piece driveshaft from AM and the axle shop is the manufacture of it. I couldn't find a bad review about the Axle Shop DS for our cars. I hear the DSS shop is always great which there all gonna be way better than the factory 2 piece .
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #10
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I got my one piece driveshaft from AM and the axle shop is the manufacture of it. I couldn't find a bad review about the Axle Shop DS for our cars. I hear the DSS shop is always great which there all gonna be way better than the factory 2 piece .
I thought the axle exchange made AMs driveshaft???
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:39 PM   #11
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I thought the axle exchange made AMs driveshaft???
Correct. My bad. I thought I said axle exchange but I said axle shop. My bad.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:29 PM   #12
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I've got Axle Exchange and LOVE it. Real U-joints, no clunking, no more high speed vibrations, they say 2/10ths fast in1/4, ( if u have traction ) probably more.As far as pinion angle, I would think you would want to make it correct, kinda like the caster on the frt. how's the contact of tire to ground ? Will it dig& bite or slip & spin?
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:09 AM   #13
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I've got Axle Exchange and LOVE it. Real U-joints, no clunking, no more high speed vibrations, they say 2/10ths fast in1/4, ( if u have traction ) probably more.As far as pinion angle, I would think you would want to make it correct, kinda like the caster on the frt. how's the contact of tire to ground ? Will it dig& bite or slip & spin?
What do you mean "real u joints"? Are you implying the others don't have real ones? I know the DSS u joints are the beefier of the two. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think DSS u joints are 1350 while axle exchange is 1330?
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:53 AM   #14
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:19 AM   #15
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Glad they provide specs. A least they can weld lol
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:41 AM   #16
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Also I believe grabberblue5.0 had his DSS shaft fail recently. The cv part of the shaft failed. Not sure as to why? Would have to ask him.
I don't think we'll ever know why it failed, but DSS replaced it no questions asked. There is some speculation that it's due to not adjusting the pinion angle - but there seem to be two schools of thought on that without any hard evidence either way.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:45 AM   #17
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Naw, 1350 Spicer also. But some D/S's still have a CV type joint. That's what I mean by real.
Times have changes & maybe CV's work fine. I'm old school and like a cross trunion universal.
As long as yoke isn't damaged you can replace on the side of the road, if you had to.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:23 AM   #18
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A guy I know here in ATX has a new Dynotech ADS that he will sell me for $500. Trying to decide if it is worth doing. Worried about warranty if I do the swap.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:28 AM   #19
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A guy I know here in ATX has a new Dynotech ADS that he will sell me for $500. Trying to decide if it is worth doing. Worried about warranty if I do the swap.
Don't worry about warranty. If anything is Messed up or you need to take it in for something related to driveline work then swap the stocker back in.

Pretty sure most aftermarket aluminum/carbon fiber driveshafts are good. Some have better and stronger materials than others but all in all I'd say they all are good. I prefer DSS.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #20
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Bought the 1pc aluminum driveshaft at lunch. For the price ($500) a new 3.5" Dynotech GT drive shaft with the billet pinion flange, it should be a nice upgrade. Finally, the MGW shifter arrived here at the house, so should be a perfect time to do both!
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:59 PM   #21
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Bought the 1pc aluminum driveshaft at lunch. For the price ($500) a new 3.5" Dynotech GT drive shaft with the billet pinion flange, it should be a nice upgrade. Finally, the MGW shifter arrived here at the house, so should be a perfect time to do both!
just a tip, remove the DS, install the shifter, then install the shaft
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:55 PM   #22
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just a tip, remove the DS, install the shifter, then install the shaft
LOL.....kinda the motivation to finally pull the trigger on this drive shaft......@$500 it was tempting since it retails for $750ish
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:20 PM   #23
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LOL.....kinda the motivation to finally pull the trigger on this drive shaft......@$500 it was tempting since it retails for $750ish
Are you installing this week? I'd love to hear how it felt in terms of improved acceleration, throttle response etc. Please keep us updated!
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #24
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Are you installing this week? I'd love to hear how it felt in terms of improved acceleration, throttle response etc. Please keep us updated!
My son and I will be installing the aluminum drive shaft as well as the MGW shifter this evening. I will give an update, but it will prob be tomorrow. We will be doing it all on jackstands so I am planning on at least 4hrs and we wont get started till around 7ish.
Brenspeed raves about these drive shafts:
2011-2013 Mustang GT / BOSS Dynatech Aluminum 3.5" Driveshaft
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:01 PM   #25
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My son and I will be installing the aluminum drive shaft as well as the MGW shifter this evening. I will give an update, but it will prob be tomorrow. We will be doing it all on jackstands so I am planning on at least 4hrs and we wont get started till around 7ish.
Brenspeed raves about these drive shafts:
2011-2013 Mustang GT / BOSS Dynatech Aluminum 3.5" Driveshaft
They sell them, of course they rave about them.

Good choice on the shifter. That coupled with the driveshaft will be a great upgrade.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:05 PM   #26
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This list just got longer for tonight......I picked up the Drive Shaft and he had a set of UPR Pro Series Chrome Moly Double Adjustable Lower Control arms for a Benjamin. Couldn't resist.......
Now, waiting on the heat to die down just a little before we go roll under the ghost for a evening.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:43 AM   #27
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Didn't get started until 9pm, finished and lowered her off the stands a few minutes after 1am and took her for a run. The MGW shifter lives up to the hype. Quicker more precise shifts. No comparison to the OEM. Went ahead and adjusted the throw post 3/4 turn counter clockwise after install prior to the test drive after hearing most everyone say they ended up adjusting. Worked like a champ.
The drive shaft was an easy install. Had to loosen the exhaust clamps to maneuver the DS into position. Was worried about vibrations, but there were none and we were over the century mark a couple of times. I am going to take some good measurements of my pinion angle tomorrow to see if we need to make an adjustment. I am hoping we are within spec, but I am doubtful since it has been lowered. WITHOUT a doubt, you can feel the throttle more. It feels more responsive or at least feels like it responds quicker. Cant tell if it is faster, but is for sure feels more aggressive when you are in the throttle. Now 3.5 hours of sleep and head to the office.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:51 AM   #28
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This list just got longer for tonight......I picked up the Drive Shaft and he had a set of UPR Pro Series Chrome Moly Double Adjustable Lower Control arms for a Benjamin. Couldn't resist.......
Now, waiting on the heat to die down just a little before we go roll under the ghost for a evening.
That's how much Mak Performance sells them for
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:31 AM   #29
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Didn't get started until 9pm, finished and lowered her off the stands a few minutes after 1am and took her for a run. The MGW shifter lives up to the hype. Quicker more precise shifts. No comparison to the OEM. Went ahead and adjusted the throw post 3/4 turn counter clockwise after install prior to the test drive after hearing most everyone say they ended up adjusting. Worked like a champ.
The drive shaft was an easy install. Had to loosen the exhaust clamps to maneuver the DS into position. Was worried about vibrations, but there were none and we were over the century mark a couple of times. I am going to take some good measurements of my pinion angle tomorrow to see if we need to make an adjustment. I am hoping we are within spec, but I am doubtful since it has been lowered. WITHOUT a doubt, you can feel the throttle more. It feels more responsive or at least feels like it responds quicker. Cant tell if it is faster, but is for sure feels more aggressive when you are in the throttle. Now 3.5 hours of sleep and head to the office.
Dont mean to beat the dead horse here, but im just curious how was the car feels with the driveshaft a year later? Did you change your pinion angle? and what do you need to change this? Im lowered only 1.5 inches all around do you think i need one with the new driveshaft im getting? Thanks
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:45 AM   #30
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I have the shaftmasters DS and it's a nice piece. I feel a slight bump in acceleration, but then again it could all be in my head lol. But it was a must have as I am planning on supercharging the car next year. I coupled that along with Stifflers DSSL.


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Old 08-21-2015, 11:51 AM   #31
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I have the shaftmasters DS and it's a nice piece. I feel a slight bump in acceleration, but then again it could all be in my head lol. But it was a must have as I am planning on supercharging the car next year. I coupled that along with Stifflers DSSL.


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Thanks man, are you lowered? Did you have to change your pinion angle?

MPT tune, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:57 AM   #32
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Thanks man, are you lowered? Did you have to change your pinion angle?

MPT tune, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘

I am lowered 1.5 all around. I had to change it by about -2 degrees. It was at -4. Wasn't a huge deal because I was switching over to an adjustable BMR UCA


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Old 08-21-2015, 12:00 PM   #33
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I am lowered 1.5 all around. I had to change it by about -2 degrees. It was at -4. Wasn't a huge deal because I was switching over to an adjustable BMR UCA


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OK getting UCA would help with pinion angle? So what do you have now before switching to BMR? stupid question can I change my pinion angle with just my stock UCA?

MPT tune, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #34
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OK getting UCA would help with pinion angle? So what do you have now before switching to BMR? stupid question can I change my pinion angle with just my stock UCA?

MPT tune, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘

You can't change your pinion angle with a fixed UCA which was what I had because I had no intention of changing out my DS, so I didn't feel the need. Now it's a nice shiny red paperweight lol.


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Old 08-21-2015, 12:26 PM   #35
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OK getting UCA would help with pinion angle? So what do you have now before switching to BMR? stupid question can I change my pinion angle with just my stock UCA?

MPT tune, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
The stock UCA has no adjustment possible........have you measured you pinion angle?
I'm running a Shaftmasters also and have an adjustable UCA. I set mine for 0.05 degrees negative........I have also preloaded the chassis with the adjustable LCA's..........something I don't recommend unless you have worked on chassis before.
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