2011+ rear comtrol arm question - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-01-2013, 07:30 PM   #1
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2011+ rear comtrol arm question

I recently installed a set of upr billet aluminum lower control arms that I picked up off a buddy. They look like bran new. I made sure the suspension was loaded before torquing the bolts. (129ftlbs)Also greased the bushing up real good before installing them.
My issue is when hitting the gas hard and putting the power down. This may sound stupid but the car torques up funny and gets hard to keep strait. The tires are NOT spinning. It did not do this with the stock arms in. I have koni streets, sr springs, j&m phb already in the car. The lowers I just installed are pointing upward because of the drop (1.5in rear) and need relocation brackets. My upper control arm is still stock at the moment.
Not to sound like a TARD but why all of a sudden is my car "twisting" like this after installing the arms? Is it because I need relocation brackets and an adj upper ca?
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:45 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ddinn25 View Post
I recently installed a set of upr billet aluminum lower control arms that I picked up off a buddy. They look like bran new. I made sure the suspension was loaded before torquing the bolts. (129ftlbs)Also greased the bushing up real good before installing them.
My issue is when hitting the gas hard and putting the power down. This may sound stupid but the car torques up funny and gets hard to keep strait. The tires are NOT spinning. It did not do this with the stock arms in. I have koni streets, sr springs, j&m phb already in the car. The lowers I just installed are pointing upward because of the drop (1.5in rear) and need relocation brackets. My upper control arm is still stock at the moment.
Not to sound like a TARD but why all of a sudden is my car "twisting" like this after installing the arms? Is it because I need relocation brackets and an adj upper ca?
Yes, the suspension is binding because of the goofy angles
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:34 PM   #3
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There will always be a bit of this because the diff side of the driveline has a bit more leverage mechanically than the DS, even with a Trak Lok in the back. When you tighten up the bushings with aftermarket stuff, it reveals this kind of thing, because there's not so much give in the bushes, both sides. I notice this particularly in the burnout box, as it wants to walk out of the box to the right, on the footbrake.

You do need to get those lowers at least parallel with the ground, though, preferably a bit downward facing towards the rear. It won't change this tendency you describe but, the leverage will actually be applied to planting the tire, not lifting he rear.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:48 PM   #4
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There will always be a bit of this because the diff side of the driveline has a bit more leverage mechanically than the DS, even with a Trak Lok in the back. When you tighten up the bushings with aftermarket stuff, it reveals this kind of thing, because there's not so much give in the bushes, both sides. I notice this particularly in the burnout box, as it wants to walk out of the box to the right, on the footbrake.

You do need to get those lowers at least parallel with the ground, though, preferably a bit downward facing towards the rear. It won't change this tendency you describe but, the leverage will actually be applied to planting the tire, not lifting he rear.
I have LCA's without relocation brackets. They angle very slightly downward going from back to front (opposite of what you described). My tires don't spin or hop the way they did before, but I do feel the binding. Will it be worth the money for the bracket? Thanks.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:58 PM   #5
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Just to be clear: you want the front eye of the control arm to be higher than the rear eye. If you don't have this, you need relos.
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Old 08-02-2013, 05:02 PM   #6
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Just to be clear: you want the front eye of the control arm to be higher than the rear eye. If you don't have this, you need relos.
I guess then I need them. Thanks.
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