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Old 08-03-2013, 05:59 PM   #1
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Shifting problems!!!!!!

I'm have trouble shifting gears with my 2011 5.0. Am I the only one? And would could be the problem
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #2
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Might be time for upgrades. What issues do you have specifically.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:20 PM   #3
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Shifter upgrade needed. Again, use the search option. Barton and MGW very good, and will fix any shifter problems. I have the Barton and two post (very happy), but sure the MGW is as good or better. If you have time and money, plan to do more, go with MGW.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddtmoto View Post
Might be time for upgrades. What issues do you have specifically.
Grinding going into gears when cold

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013 Green GT View Post
Shifter upgrade needed. Again, use the search option. Barton and MGW very good, and will fix any shifter problems. I have the Barton and two post (very happy), but sure the MGW is as good or better. If you have time and money, plan to do more, go with MGW.
A friend of mine said that and change the clutch spring
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:38 PM   #5
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Don't know about the spring but I have no problem with the clutch pedal not returning. It has helped others. I also have the clutch extension pedal. Either way both the shifter and pedal help http://bondraperformanceengineering.com/.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:43 PM   #6
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Don't know about the spring but I have no problem with the clutch pedal not returning. It has helped others. I also have the clutch extension pedal. Either way both the shifter and pedal help http://bondraperformanceengineering.com/.
The clutch didn't return only one I just was wondering about the spring
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:11 PM   #7
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MTL redline lube in gearbox, 2 post Barton bracket and your choice of shifter, if funds allow. The bracket and gear lube fixed 90% of my shifting issues. But, I just had to have a Hurst billet and a real leather shift boot (I am old school, and I am old) for me it is a perfect match.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:56 AM   #8
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I'm having problems going into first. Second gear was replaced about 2k miles ago. I thought this problem would go away once it was broke in but it hasn't. Going into first at a stop from neutral I have to push up on the shifter and gradually apply more force until it "clicks" into gear. Any ideas on what this is?
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:27 AM   #9
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I have a hurst st with an extra steeda ball and boot for 100$! I switched to a MGW. The hurst kit comes complete and in the original box. The black ball and billet retainer are for the extra "stock" arm that comes in the hurst kit. I also have an extra boot so you don't have to modify the original. All for 100$! I'll even install it for an extra 30$!
I'll be doing redline mtl gear box oil, fresh dot 4, and the JHR clutch line kit. I've already removed the peddle spring and installed a MGW. Only issue I have is the peddle sucking to the floor. If the above items don't fix it then I'm switching to a McLeod RXT twin disk
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:31 PM   #10
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MarkCoyote,

Sounds like you could benefit from installing the Barton 2-post shifter bracket. This will help your shifting in each gear with even the stock shifter, let along a Barton short throw shifter. I highly suggest giving this a try!

Let me know what you think if you decide to take this route!

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Old 08-05-2013, 06:46 PM   #11
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Anyone?
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:50 PM   #12
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U have a warranty? If so take it to ford.. Have a friend with a 12' on his 5th transmission and a friend with a 13' on his 3rd
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:29 PM   #13
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I'm having problems too!!!

When I got the car I noticed that fifth was a pain so I got the barton short throw shifter and the bracket, and it seemed to help for a while. At the drag strip the other night I missed second 4-5 times and my clutch pedal will stay 2 or so inches lower after a run then I'll pill it up or pump it one quick time and it goes back to normal. HOW MUCH REDLINE LUBE did the gearbox take? and isn't the clutch hydraulic? If it is where is the reservoir and how much fluid does it take? Thanks for any help I'm new to the COYOTE and my 89' vert had an automatic.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:31 PM   #14
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Tellin u... It's the transmission not u..
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:33 PM   #15
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This instead

so I should just put a T-56 magnum in it. What do you suggest Shelby09?
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:35 PM   #16
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My friend wants to do a gt500 swap.. T-6060

---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:34 PM ----------

Coyotes r bad *** but the transmission they put in the cars from the beginning r junk..
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:44 PM   #17
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How involved is the swap? I'd have to get a new shifter and all that, Clutch and flywheel need to be swapped to right?
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:45 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by BigBry0311 View Post
How involved is the swap? I'd have to get a new shifter and all that, Clutch and flywheel need to be swapped to right?
I would imagine so.. Never looked into it
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BigBry0311 View Post
How involved is the swap? I'd have to get a new shifter and all that, Clutch and flywheel need to be swapped to right?
Don't forget driveshaft
You're going to need a custom length driveshaft.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by BigBry0311 View Post
When I got the car I noticed that fifth was a pain so I got the barton short throw shifter and the bracket, and it seemed to help for a while. At the drag strip the other night I missed second 4-5 times and my clutch pedal will stay 2 or so inches lower after a run then I'll pill it up or pump it one quick time and it goes back to normal. HOW MUCH REDLINE LUBE did the gearbox take? and isn't the clutch hydraulic? If it is where is the reservoir and how much fluid does it take? Thanks for any help I'm new to the COYOTE and my 89' vert had an automatic.
I have the Barton with 2 post bracket and the Redline MTL as well and its been gravy so far... How much fluid did u put in the trans?? Your actually not supposed to fill it up until it drips outing the GT. As per the manual, your supposed to put in 2.7 qts and its not supposed to drip out... The V6 can probably go with the same level as the fill plug letting it drip out, then plug it
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #21
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Sounds like a clutch issue. Swapping to a good clutch like a McLeod RXT twin disk and JHR clutch lines would help drastically! These tranny's are good if you get a good one. I've seen several hold over 700hp! JPC racing sells a whole tremec Magnum kit. You get clutch, fly wheel, trans, and ds for about 4500$. Holds 800hp out of the box. The trans it's self is like 2600$ I believe but you'll need a clutch.
The clutch and trans are 2 different animals. A junk clutch will trash a good trans.
If I'm not mistaken the crank position sensor needs re taught any time the flywheel bolts are loosened/removed. I'm not sure of the procedure on this?
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:15 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MarkCoyote View Post
I'm have trouble shifting gears with my 2011 5.0. Am I the only one? And would could be the problem
I had an issue in my V6 MT... Took it to the dealer for the trans oil change and after market shift bracket. Made a huge difference. Very few shift issues.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:19 PM   #23
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Thanks for all the info guys I am going to do whatever it takes and i'll keep you all updated on how it goes.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:52 AM   #24
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i have driven a lot of manual transmissions, and coming from a 3rd gen Rx7, i know of bad shifters. this shifter is not bad. it could use improvement, because i have been locked out of 3rd from 2nd on hard shifts before but that was when i first bought the car.

with the stock shifter i have no problems running 12.9s now on all season tires and i never miss shifts. you need to learn how to shift this car, and if you're confident that you do know, something is broken or malfunctioning.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:19 AM   #25
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The oil in the gearbox and the mushy OEM shifter bracket are 80% of the problem. Upgrading the shifter also, is icing on the cake.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #26
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Anyone?
I was having the same problems on my 2011. I thought that changing the gear oil would help but it didnt.

what DID work was changing my brake/clutch fluid. It took about 5 mins, a turkey baster and a bottle of Dot 3/4 brake fluid.

My fluid wasnt low or anything it just looked like sweet tea. after changing it the car is going into gear flawlessly.

anyone who is having this problem should do this 1st before buying anything.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:16 AM   #27
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I was having the same problems on my 2011. I thought that changing the gear oil would help but it didnt.

what DID work was changing my brake/clutch fluid. It took about 5 mins, a turkey baster and a bottle of Dot 3/4 brake fluid.

My fluid wasnt low or anything it just looked like sweet tea. after changing it the car is going into gear flawlessly.

anyone who is having this problem should do this 1st before buying anything.
So random question,
Would replacing all of your fluids with fully synthetic ones provide any benefit for the longevity of the car? An what about handling constant abuse :p
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:52 AM   #28
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So random question,
Would replacing all of your fluids with fully synthetic ones provide any benefit for the longevity of the car? An what about handling constant abuse :p
I will say this, I have a 2011 with just over 20k miles on it. I drive it considerably hard and one thing I’ve noticed is that the fluids tend to need to be replaced sooner than the “regularly scheduled maintenance” guidelines -OR should be. Most of the fluids from the factory are garbage IMO. So yes, I think the cost of changing out your fluids if fully worth it. As well as maintaining/changing them sooner than what is recommended in your owners manual.
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:25 PM   #29
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Grinding going into gears when cold[COLOR="Silver"]
Try this, a TSB was issued for 2011-2012 I would imagine it is the same issue.

MT82 MANUAL 6-SPEED TRANSMISSION COLD SHIFT EFFORT

http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/wp-con...b-11-03-18.pdf

I had the problem with mine, took in got the oil changed. Seems better, I also have the MGW shifter. Still have an issue once in a while. Nothing I'm to worried about though.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:16 PM   #30
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hey MIKEC I just drained my reservoir and refilled it with new brake fluid and I think its the fix!!! But just in case I got 3 quarts of Royal Purple synthetic manual trans fluid that I will put in as soon as I can get on my buddies lift, and I'll keep you guys updated. You should have seen the muck in the master cylinder reservoir it was gnarly. She has nice clean fluid in her now though and it really does feel better already. Thanks again for your post. Can we send rep to each other on this forum?
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:15 PM   #31
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hey MIKEC I just drained my reservoir and refilled it with new brake fluid and I think its the fix!!! But just in case I got 3 quarts of Royal Purple synthetic manual trans fluid that I will put in as soon as I can get on my buddies lift, and I'll keep you guys updated. You should have seen the muck in the master cylinder reservoir it was gnarly. She has nice clean fluid in her now though and it really does feel better already. Thanks again for your post. Can we send rep to each other on this forum?
Idk if I'd put royal purple in the trans!? There's a reason all the SVT guys are running the REDLINE and AMSOIL products. Which is what I'll be switching to. If you have problems now (street driving) just wait till you hit the track. The once in a wile issue will become EVERY FRICKIN PASS and will make you HATE your car!!!!
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:51 AM   #32
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Idk if I'd put royal purple in the trans!? There's a reason all the SVT guys are running the REDLINE and AMSOIL products. Which is what I'll be switching to. If you have problems now (street driving) just wait till you hit the track. The once in a wile issue will become EVERY FRICKIN PASS and will make you HATE your car!!!!
My issues are only happening at the track. My main question is whats wrong with Royal Purple? They make a full synthetic manual trans fluid with a ford part number. My problem is I went to every auto parts store and asked for redline and none of them could even special order it for me. Also, I'm running R.P. full syn engine oil and R.P.'s coolant additive and my motor is running 10 degrees cooler, so I have had good experiences with the royal purple products.
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:54 PM   #33
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Good motorcycle dealers carry Redline MTL around here. You could check with yours. Or, order it on line.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:04 AM   #34
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MTL redline lube in gearbox, 2 post Barton bracket and your choice of shifter, if funds allow. The bracket and gear lube fixed 90% of my shifting issues. But, I just had to have a Hurst billet and a real leather shift boot (I am old school, and I am old) for me it is a perfect match.
When u say gearbox lube u mean a full tranny flush with Redlines oil right. Sorry just trying to clear it up for me got confused
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:43 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Tmenzz View Post
i have driven a lot of manual transmissions, and coming from a 3rd gen Rx7, i know of bad shifters. this shifter is not bad. it could use improvement, because i have been locked out of 3rd from 2nd on hard shifts before but that was when i first bought the car.

with the stock shifter i have no problems running 12.9s now on all season tires and i never miss shifts. you need to learn how to shift this car, and if you're confident that you do know, something is broken or malfunctioning.
the Stock shifter may not be broke but it is a junk part. you would get better feel with an upgrade, that is not to say your current problem is not a bad syncro.
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