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Old 08-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #1
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Pricing on Gears

I am planning to do gears, im getting the ford racing 3.73 gears and install kit plus the rear gear pinion bearing 8.8.
This is all i need right?
And what pricing should i expect on the installation
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:39 AM   #2
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I'm wondering the same thing.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:25 AM   #3
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Depends on your area or where you go and how good they are but its also one of the most overcharged jobs to do. Anywhere from the 300-600 range is what you'll be quoted. I got quoted fairly low at 285
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:56 AM   #4
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While you're at it, you might want to have the trak lok restacked to make it tighter. It's just a question of getting a shim kit, adding an extra friction disc and cramming that mofo as tight as it'll go and still let you get the spider gears in.

You change the order of the stack doing this, too:

Shim, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc and side spider gear.

This stacking order has four friction discs. A TL kit only comes with three friction discs. You will have to buy another friction disc. You could round them up, I'm sure, at your rear end shop, it doesn't need to be new, just in spec.

The rear end is actually a pretty easy job on the 8.8s. The only holdup to DIY is the installation torque on the pinion nut is pretty high for the tight confines of a car on jackstands. Getting the S-spring in can be fun, too, I squeeze it in a vise, wrapped in a HD hose clamp, get it in and cut the hose clamp.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:38 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
While you're at it, you might want to have the trak lok restacked to make it tighter. It's just a question of getting a shim kit, adding an extra friction disc and cramming that mofo as tight as it'll go and still let you get the spider gears in.

You change the order of the stack doing this, too:

Shim, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc, 1 steel splined disc, friction disc and side spider gear.

This stacking order has four friction discs. A TL kit only comes with three friction discs. You will have to buy another friction disc. You could round them up, I'm sure, at your rear end shop, it doesn't need to be new, just in spec.

The rear end is actually a pretty easy job on the 8.8s. The only holdup to DIY is the installation torque on the pinion nut is pretty high for the tight confines of a car on jackstands. Getting the S-spring in can be fun, too, I squeeze it in a vise, wrapped in a HD hose clamp, get it in and cut the hose clamp.
Thanks i will look into that, i got quoted 300, 325 and 475
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:22 PM   #6
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250 by me
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:30 PM   #7
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I wonder if steeda which is nearby, can give me feedback on which are the parts they install for the price they quoted me, if its the same im driving up there tomorrow.


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Old 08-08-2013, 04:31 PM   #8
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Anyone have anybody they suggest down in southflorida
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #9
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Install should be around 300 to 325.00 tops.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #10
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How much of a difference is there between the 3.31's and 3.73's? I mean I had 3.73's in my 89' but I've read a few people post that it really isn't worth paying for the upgrade and also saw one guy say that is actually made his car feel "quicker" but slower overall. How true is this?
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:18 PM   #11
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I installed my own gears. If you were near I would do it for like 150
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:45 PM   #12
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Ozzy. I'm in south florida liking for the same thing. Maybe we could get a 2-4-1 he he!
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:54 PM   #13
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How much of a difference is there between the 3.31's and 3.73's? I mean I had 3.73's in my 89' but I've read a few people post that it really isn't worth paying for the upgrade and also saw one guy say that is actually made his car feel "quicker" but slower overall. How true is this?
Having an engine that can rev and makes some HP means you can take advantage of gearing to help you get into and stay in the power producing area easier. This engine is pretty obviously set up, at least in the manual applications, for a 3.73 gear. It matches the ratios in the trans right and the power curve of the engine well.

The only disadvantage to the steeper gear in this application is it makes traction harder to find.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:05 PM   #14
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Ozzy. I'm in south florida liking for the same thing. Maybe we could get a 2-4-1 he he!
Ha! Too bad ive been giving a "company" wont say who, clients to then tell that theyre hooking it up for 475, suck my d!
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2013Coyote5.0 View Post
How much of a difference is there between the 3.31's and 3.73's? I mean I had 3.73's in my 89' but I've read a few people post that it really isn't worth paying for the upgrade and also saw one guy say that is actually made his car feel "quicker" but slower overall. How true is this?
I just swapped my factory 3.73 gears with a friend of mine that had 3.31 and there is a HUGE power delivery difference. 3.73 at lease on a manual car is a 100% must!!!!!!
I did the swap BC I am doing a cross country trip and the 3.31 is more highway friendly.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:30 PM   #16
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I've debated the gear swap long and hard but I have fi so idk if its worth it
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:38 PM   #17
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Thanks McQueen! That's what I wanted to hear.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:38 PM   #18
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I've debated the gear swap long and hard but I have fi so idk if its worth it
Dude did you ever get ur car running good?
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:44 PM   #19
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Pm me but yes
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:48 PM   #20
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I just swapped my factory 3.73 gears with a friend of mine that had 3.31 and there is a HUGE power delivery difference. 3.73 at lease on a manual car is a 100% must!!!!!!
I did the swap BC I am doing a cross country trip and the 3.31 is more highway friendly.
You did all that for a cross country trip?
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:02 AM   #21
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You did all that for a cross country trip?
The only work I did was drinking beer while my friend did the work. he is an experience mechanic so no need for help.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:47 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by OzzyLiriano View Post
I am planning to do gears, im getting the ford racing 3.73 gears and install kit plus the rear gear pinion bearing 8.8.
This is all i need right?
And what pricing should i expect on the installation
You need a special pinion bearing that used in 2011+ mustangs and is another 50$. It doesn't come in the standard ford install kit. Check the kit on AM's site. There's a drop down for adding the bearing. Plus I'd look at rebuilding the traclok if you have decent miles on the car. That kit can also be added on AM's site
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:53 AM   #23
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I've debated the gear swap long and hard but I have fi so idk if its worth it
If FI stay with the 3.31's. all the fast auto cars w/ FI are running 3.15's with a stall.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:58 AM   #24
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On the track (1/4) you need a 28in tall tire to stay in 4th w/ 3.73's. 3.31's will need a 26in tire. I'm going to run a 27in tire on the street w/ 3.73's and switch to a 28in for the track. I'm running 3.31's rite now with a 27in tire and it suxs! Best time is 13.01@109 w/ 2.08 60ft. This is 255/35/20 street tires. The car hooks good at about 3500 but bogs really bad.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:02 AM   #25
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You need a special pinion bearing that used in 2011+ mustangs and is another 50$. It doesn't come in the standard ford install kit. Check the kit on AM's site. There's a drop down for adding the bearing. Plus I'd look at rebuilding the traclok if you have decent miles on the car. That kit can also be added on AM's site
You can get the instal kit with bearing together.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:22 AM   #26
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Not so much of a big deal what gear you cross the stripe in with an automatic.

With the stick, I'm on 3.73 and I wanted to lose the 4-5 shift, plus maximize traction, hence a 28" tire. It is a bit hard to 60 well with such a big tire, as it drops my overall gearing to a little under 3.5 but, I can dead hook with 5K on the dial if they prep the track.

FWIW, best on 28" is 12.0 at 114, with Procal, Roush UCA and UMI cheap LCAs. best on 26" before was 12.6 but, those tire were near death.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:21 AM   #27
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Not so much of a big deal what gear you cross the stripe in with an automatic.
Well it is when it shifts into 4th just before you cross the stripe. I'd rather cross @ 7000+ rpm than 6000 rpm. There are many guys realizing this having gone with too big a gear and changing gears again.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #28
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Gotcha, I sized the tire myself to avoid a final shift before the stripe. However, imho, you can easily lose more up front than you gain out back if you aren't careful. A 4-5 shift on a manual means one more shift to potentially miss, etc, for sure. The auto will never do that and if it's tuned, it should bang off the shift fairly quickly, comparatively.

Definitely a balancing act, for sure.

Because of the 28" tire, I am having to work hard to get the 60s where I want them. Best so far is 1.6x and, more regularly 1.7-ish. When the bigger diameter is taken into account, it's dropped my effective gear ratio to about 3.46 which is a touch soft of ideal for an MT car.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:53 PM   #29
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Gotcha, I sized the tire myself to avoid a final shift before the stripe. However, imho, you can easily lose more up front than you gain out back if you aren't careful. A 4-5 shift on a manual means one more shift to potentially miss, etc, for sure. The auto will never do that and if it's tuned, it should bang off the shift fairly quickly, comparatively.

Definitely a balancing act, for sure.

Because of the 28" tire, I am having to work hard to get the 60s where I want them. Best so far is 1.6x and, more regularly 1.7-ish. When the bigger diameter is taken into account, it's dropped my effective gear ratio to about 3.46 which is a touch soft of ideal for an MT car.
Can i im you to learn how to calculate 28" w/ different auto gears?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:13 PM   #30
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Can i im you to learn how to calculate 28" w/ different auto gears?
You need to enter the tire revolutions. But each brand of tire is different so don't use tire calculators. I have the 295-35-20 invo info somewhere.

---------- Post added at 08:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 PM ----------

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You need to enter the tire revolutions. But each brand of tire is different so don't use tire calculators. I have the 295-35-20 invo info somewhere.
Oh wait... Never mind. I thought you were asking how to change the tire diameter in a tuner.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:12 AM   #31
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It is difficult to measure this exactly but you can estimate. There are many ways to get at this. Here's one:

Using a gear ratio speed calculator like this one for different sizes:

Gear Ratio and Tire Size Calculator - 4x4 and Jeep Ring & Pinion

You can take your current tire diameter of say, 27", find your gear ratio of 3.73 and see that results in an engine speed of 3017. Moving up to 28" with same will drop rpm to 2909. Multiply 2909 by 3017 and you get .964. Multiply your gear ratio of 3.73 by .964 and you see the effect of the bigger tires on gear ratio: 3.59.

Now calculating your actual tire diameter is actually very hard, as that number isn't fixed as the tire flexes a lot but, for the purpose of this exercise, we can assume it does not change. There's a ball park formula on the link I provided above.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:37 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
It is difficult to measure this exactly but you can estimate. There are many ways to get at this. Here's one:

Using a gear ratio speed calculator like this one for different sizes:

Gear Ratio and Tire Size Calculator - 4x4 and Jeep Ring & Pinion

You can take your current tire diameter of say, 27", find your gear ratio of 3.73 and see that results in an engine speed of 3017. Moving up to 28" with same will drop rpm to 2909. Multiply 2909 by 3017 and you get .964. Multiply your gear ratio of 3.73 by .964 and you see the effect of the bigger tires on gear ratio: 3.59.

Now calculating your actual tire diameter is actually very hard, as that number isn't fixed as the tire flexes a lot but, for the purpose of this exercise, we can assume it does not change. There's a ball park formula on the link I provided above.
Thanks man always coming through with great info
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:56 PM   #33
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I got good news! so comparing the Bama Race Tune to the Bama Hybrid tune to the Stock is below.
Same factors are still on the car, 20" vossens, 295/35/20 rear 275/35/20 front Nitto Invos when comparing the race vs hybrid vs stock.
Offroad xpipe and suspension 1" drop, bmr lcas, bmr Pan Hardbar, Steeda HD Mounts and Koni yellows
Improved in everything!!!! but the 60ft is behind:/ lol
is .100 really what i should expect for gains at the track with a tune?

Race vs Hybrid vs Stock (235/50/18 All Season Tires)
2.182 60ft 2.130 2.066
66.17 Speed 67.70 66.35
5.694 330 ft 5.548 5.555
86.10 Final Speed 87.45 86.33
8.555 Elapsed Time 8.342 8.410

What do you think? Gears are going to solve this 60ft issue? Im going to the track with the 275/60/15 mt streets radials next week, lets see what happens.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:11 PM   #34
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A converter will solve your 60', not gears. A converter could be worth as much as 4/10 in the quarter mile and will put you at 1.5-1.6 60'.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:31 AM   #35
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A converter will solve your 60', not gears. A converter could be worth as much as 4/10 in the quarter mile and will put you at 1.5-1.6 60'.
I know, the converter its just not something i want to do yet to my car.
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