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Old 09-30-2013, 12:13 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Black on Boss View Post
I'm surprised no one has said clutch/flywheel or one piece driveshaft. Those are definitely my next mods after my first track day.
The clutch will come soon enough on a track car.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:33 AM   #37
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Look, I'll make it simple:

With MT:
No drag radials
No clutch slip
Put as much rpm on the tach as the track'll hold that day. Start at 4K and work up. Dump it and go. If it bogs, more rpm; if it spins, less.

Everyone racing with this trans needs a shifter bracket at the very least.

The factory clutch is fine on this car n/a. I've got well over 100 passes on it, no issues.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:09 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Look, I'll make it simple: With MT: No drag radials No clutch slip Put as much rpm on the tach as the track'll hold that day. Start at 4K and work up. Dump it and go. If it bogs, more rpm; if it spins, less. Everyone racing with this trans needs a shifter bracket at the very least. The factory clutch is fine on this car n/a. I've got well over 100 passes on it, no issues.
Thanks man. Sorry for the noob questions. There are a ton of opinions saying that dumping the clutch at high RPM will eventually damage the rear end. Confusing to say the least. Wish I wouldn't have dumped money into the DRs. So next question on slicks. Is an 18" rim to large to run a slick? Or did I just waste money?

Definitely need that shifter bracket. Didn't like the feel of slamming the shifter into 2nd and 3rd.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:27 AM   #39
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Thanks man. Sorry for the noob questions. There are a ton of opinions saying that dumping the clutch at high RPM will eventually damage the rear end. Confusing to say the least. Wish I wouldn't have dumped money into the DRs. So next question on slicks. Is an 18" rim to large to run a slick? Or did I just waste money?

Definitely need that shifter bracket. Didn't like the feel of slamming the shifter into 2nd and 3rd.
Sell me your drs
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:30 AM   #40
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Definitely the smaller the wheel the better on a slick. I run 16", because I had them. 15s offer more choice of brands and sizes. 18s is kind of defeating the advantage of a slick tire, because of the short sidewall, even if anyone made them, which I don't think they do.

Dumping the clutch CAN damage the rear end. It can also damage the clutch and trans. That's racing and that's the risk you take. Slicks make it a lot less likely you'll hurt the rear. If you can't afford to break something occasionally, don't race. Rebuilding a busted 8.8 isn't to expensive or hard, actually.

You have to research before you put money down. Sell the wheels and tires and do it right this time.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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