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Old 09-28-2013, 04:56 PM   #1
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1st day at track - next mod?

Ok so let me lay out the ground work. 2013 GT BBP TP / Manual trans Roush AB exhuast MT DRs 305/35/18 Royal Purple Raceway - Baytown TX 88 deg. 85 % humidity First run I was a ball of nerves. Went to do my burnout and stalled because I had traction control on. Lol!!!! After that I just worked on my launch. Never had issues with traction or wheel hop. Actually quite confused about it with all the posts regarding that exact issue. Ended up with my last run dumping the clutch at 5k rpm. The only issue I have is the car lunges, rpms drop, then she squats and goes. Any suggestions on my next mod? Will suspension help this lunging? I'm not having any issues with wheel spin or hop. Or should I just go with a tune? A guy at a well know suspension shop here say the TP will do just fine with some lowering springs. No need to upgrade. I know nothing about suspension.

1st run - missed 3rd
14.309 @ 97.6 mph
RT .308
60ft 2.259

2nd run - clean - launch at 4k
13.465 @ 108.28
RT .105
60ft 2.3

3rd run - clean - launch at 5k
13.113 @ 108.06
RT .103
60ft 2.038
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #2
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The point where it squats and goes is the wheel hop, the point where it is squatting is lag time in the launch. Getting some upgraded lower control arms will help it so it doesn't squat as hard, meaning you will launch harder/better. You have the power to do good in the 1/4. And with DRs you should definetly be at a 1.8 60' at least, combine with lower control arms and you are looking at 1.6s with a good launch.

With a manual transmission you need to play around with the launching a bit to find the best point. If you feel like the car lugs slightly off the line when you drop the clutch that means it is bogging down and you need to slip the clutch a little instead of just dumping it. Just play around with it and find what works best with what you have.

420 horsepower is enough for low 12s easily with good suspension.
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:31 PM   #3
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Seems to be hurting your time. I got same results with bone stock 11 auto in hot weather with street tires.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:16 PM   #4
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A manual needs slicks and yes definitely a tune.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:23 PM   #5
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A manual needs slicks and yes definitely a tune.
So drag radials arent thebest choice at this point? I should be looking at slicks?
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:39 PM   #6
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So drag radials arent thebest choice at this point? I should be looking at slicks?
Drag radials + manual transmission + high rpm clutch dumps = broken rear. A slick is more forgiving.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Drag radials + manual transmission + high rpm clutch dumps = broken rear. A slick is more forgiving.
How are slicks more forgiving? Doesn't make sense to me (not saying your wrong, i just don't understand).
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:48 PM   #8
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How is that possible on a 5.0 I got a 4.6 that ran 13.2 first time at the track back in April with street tires
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:47 PM   #9
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How is that possible on a 5.0 I got a 4.6 that ran 13.2 first time at the track back in April with street tires
You had a roushcharged 3v and an automatic lol.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:26 PM   #10
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You had a roushcharged 3v and an automatic lol.
True but 5.0 come 420 HP stock lol
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:29 PM   #11
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:35 PM   #12
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the soft sidewalls of a bias slick take the hit of a high rpm clutch dump better than a stiff sidewall radial.

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Old 09-28-2013, 10:57 PM   #13
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What if he slips the clutch a little to get it rolling. I haven't tried launching my car yet. Coming from a awd car I had to slip the clutch cause if you try dumping the clutch you will just bog I'm planing to get some nitto nt05r in the rear sometime next month
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:35 PM   #14
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Im going to try launching from idle next time or at a low rpm vs a high rpm clutch dump. Dont want to break anything.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:36 PM   #15
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Sooner you can get the clutch locked up the sooner you can get power to the wheels. Clutch slip is a band aid for poor track prep, lousy tires, too much power, lousy tuning, etc.

I can bang it straight out at 6K on a good day.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:31 AM   #16
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Sooner you can get the clutch locked up the sooner you can get power to the wheels. Clutch slip is a band aid for poor track prep, lousy tires, too much power, lousy tuning, etc. I can bang it straight out at 6K on a good day.
I had always heard the Mustang had a pretty stout rear end. Are you running slicks or DRs?

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------

So it looks as if my next mid will be suspension to stop the huge bunny hop at the line.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:29 AM   #17
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I've run both but it's bias slicks for sure with MT.

I have a 3.73 factory car. All of these cars come with 31 spline axles plus, the 3.73 cars come with the GT500's standard carbon clutch diff. It's a sturdy enough setup.

An upper control arm will tame the hop properly. Roush is quiet, if that's yer thing. The bunny hop is your standard tires trying to get traction. If it's happening at the track, stickier tires will also deal with it. I got the Roush upper for improved consistency on the road.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:36 AM   #18
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I've run both but it's bias slicks for sure with MT. I have a 3.73 factory car. All of these cars come with 31 spline axles plus, the 3.73 cars come with the GT500's standard carbon clutch diff. It's a sturdy enough setup. An upper control arm will tame the hop properly. Roush is quiet, if that's yer thing. The bunny hop is your standard tires trying to get traction. If it's happening at the track, stickier tires will also deal with it. I got the Roush upper for improved consistency on the road.
I was running MT ET drag radials an still had a huge lunge off the line before she squatted and took off. Never had any wheel spin.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:51 AM   #19
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You won't get that hit with slicks. The sidewalls will move and soften it enough to convert that into forward motion.
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:48 PM   #20
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I drive to the strip and have a 2014 5.0 with an m6 and a factory 3.73 rear. I understand "why" I should run slicks, but will I be safe to drive the 1 hour and 40 minutes there on them?
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:54 PM   #21
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I drive to the strip and have a 2014 5.0 with an m6 and a factory 3.73 rear. I understand "why" I should run slicks, but will I be safe to drive the 1 hour and 40 minutes there on them?
In theory, if the roads were completely dry, yes. Legally no. I managed to fit two tires and a floor jack in my car. I just changed them there.

Looks like I may be in eating in some slicks now too.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:09 PM   #22
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In theory, if the roads were completely dry, yes. Legally no. I managed to fit two tires and a floor jack in my car. I just changed them there.

Looks like I may be in eating in some slicks now too.
Where do you keep the stockers once you take them off? lol
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:21 PM   #23
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Where do you keep the stockers once you take them off? lol
My buddy and I just stack them near the fence where we change the tires and run a cable lock through them. With all the people around it would be obvious if someone was jacking our tires.
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:55 PM   #24
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True but 5.0 come 420 HP stock lol
You also have 4.10s right?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:25 PM   #25
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Well now I'm confused. DR's or slicks. So I'm in danger of damaging the rear end using DRs an dumping the clutch? So along with suspension should I invest in slicks or does that come into play when HP #s go up?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #26
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Well now I'm confused. DR's or slicks. So I'm in danger of damaging the rear end using DRs an dumping the clutch? So along with suspension should I invest in slicks or does that come into play when HP #s go up?
Slicks. Your rear won't live long at the track especially if it's well prepped dumping the clutch on drag radials. On the street it's not a big deal.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:30 PM   #27
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Slicks. Your rear won't live long at the track especially if it's well prepped dumping the clutch on drag radials. On the street it's not a big deal.
Ok, next question. I have a 18x10 rims that I'm running the DRs on. Is that small enough for slicks or do I need to go down to a 15?
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:15 PM   #28
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i drive to the track on slicks all the time. i don't even air them up. Just take it easy and it's fine, as long as no chance of rain.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:06 PM   #29
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I'm surprised no one has said clutch/flywheel or one piece driveshaft. Those are definitely my next mods after my first track day.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:12 PM   #30
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I'm surprised no one has said clutch/flywheel or one piece driveshaft. Those are definitely my next mods after my first track day.
I would do exhaust/ intake with tune before clutch and flywheel. With just exhaust, intake and tune this car wake up BIG time!!!!
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #31
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I would do exhaust/ intake with tune before clutch and flywheel. With just exhaust, intake and tune this car wake up BIG time!!!!
Maybe it's just mine

Sadly I will be taking mine in tomorrow to look at my trans :'( I think my fifth synchro is GONE completely and in really high rpms I get locked out of 2&3. I've never pushed it hard but I noticed it yesterday.

---------- Post added at 10:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

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Maybe it's just mine

Sadly I will be taking mine in tomorrow to look at my trans :'( I think my fifth synchro is GONE completely and in really high rpms I get locked out of 2&3. I've never pushed it hard but I noticed it yesterday.
Fifth has been grinding a little and now is bad if I shift fast/quick at any rpm
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #32
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I'm surprised no one has said clutch/flywheel or one piece driveshaft. Those are definitely my next mods after my first track day.
When I do my S/C next year I plan on upgrading those pieces.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:19 PM   #33
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Look at what I'm doing on stock ds and clutch. I do have a ds loop tho, that's asked for by my track since I'm on slicks.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:25 PM   #34
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Look at what I'm doing on stock ds and clutch. I do have a ds loop tho, that's asked for by my track since I'm on slicks.
What are you doing?

This thread has left me with more questions than answers. Dump or feather the clutch. DRs or slicks? Can a damage my driveline dumping the clutch or not? Am I better feathering the clutch till I upgrade parts? What do I upgrade?

Ultimately I want to have fun at the track but I want to build the right driving / launching habits to reduce the chances of damage. If this is inevitable then where do I need to focus my mod money?
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:57 PM   #35
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Maybe it's just mine Sadly I will be taking mine in tomorrow to look at my trans :'( I think my fifth synchro is GONE completely and in really high rpms I get locked out of 2&3. I've never pushed it hard but I noticed it yesterday. ---------- Post added at 10:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ---------- Fifth has been grinding a little and now is bad if I shift fast/quick at any rpm
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