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Old 09-30-2013, 01:05 PM   #1
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UCA and mount for lowered car

So ive done some research and I want to ask ME for advice. The UCA is the last thing I need to do to finish my suspension. Im on the fence regarding the roush anti hop kit. I like it because it seems silent but it is non adjustable. I am lowered on ultralites which are a 1.5 drop. Some places say the roush are sufficient. Some say I need adjustability. What do you recommend?
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:09 PM   #2
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This may just be me but it seems that the stock uca does the job just fine and the aftermarket ones will sometimes make noises after installation so why would you change. Also from what I have herd it's a pain install. If you already have all other basic bolt on mods then just save for a short shifter or power adder because I personally can't see the gain over stock being that significant. IMHO
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:21 PM   #3
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Maybe you are right. Ill do some power adders and see if my wheelhop increases at the track. But I would like to know if the roush is sufficient if id like to change it down the line or do I need adjustability
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #4
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Nonadjustables are fine for drops less than 2" but if you go lower and/or install certain driveshafts an adjustable UCA is required. I forget there's one DS that does not need adjustment made. I'll see if I come across that one and post it for you.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Redstang1 View Post
This may just be me but it seems that the stock uca does the job just fine and the aftermarket ones will sometimes make noises after installation so why would you change. Also from what I have herd it's a pain install. If you already have all other basic bolt on mods then just save for a short shifter or power adder because I personally can't see the gain over stock being that significant. IMHO
Just wait til a diff seal goes out or your gears start whining or worse, your diff goes because your pinion angle is off. I've seen it happen, its not cheap and its much cheaper than a UCA and mount in the long run.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:49 PM   #6
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Roush is designed for just under a 2" drop. It is completely silent yet functions very well.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:30 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post

Just wait til a diff seal goes out or your gears start whining or worse, your diff goes because your pinion angle is off. I've seen it happen, its not cheap and its much cheaper than a UCA and mount in the long run.
This.
My pinion seal blew at 8k miles. About 5k after installing my ultralites. Luckily my dealership was clueless and repaired it under warranty. But now my 3.73s are starting to whine their *** off. I need to get a UCA bad, and will probably go with the roush myself as i heard it is as quiet as the stock unit. Hopefully my diff isnt messed up by now.

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Roush is designed for just under a 2" drop. It is completely silent yet functions very well.
Are you running one? I want something that is quiet, yet will correct my pinion angle. Will the roush get me in line with the ultralite drop? Approx 1.5 inch drop?
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:08 PM   #8
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[QUOTE="Evil2014GT;1812834"]

This.
My pinion seal blew at 8k miles. About 5k after installing my ultralites. Luckily my dealership was clueless and repaired it under warranty. But now my 3.73s are starting to whine their *** off. I need to get a UCA bad, and will probably go with the roush myself as i heard it is as quiet as the stock unit. Hopefully my diff isnt messed up by now.

Pinion seal blew because you lowered it? I've had my car lowered for around 10-12k miles with nothing but a little squeaking from my stick strut mounts. My buddy has had his lowered for longer than me on H&R SS with 0 issues as well.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:10 PM   #9
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I've run an Eibach Sportline drop with non-asdjustable LCA and relocation bracket. Stock drive shaft and 3.31 gears. Stock UCA.

I currently have 22.8k miles (lowered the car at 1k) after 16 months of ownership no whine, no transmission problem... Reading all these issues with gear whine and pinion issues really does scare the bejesus out of me.

Any one else went from a stock 3.31 to 3.73 and not experience any problems?
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:12 PM   #10
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Sorry if I messed that up, just switched to android and this app isn't android friendly

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by DallasStang77 View Post
I've run an Eibach Sportline drop with non-asdjustable LCA and relocation bracket. Stock drive shaft and 3.31 gears. Stock UCA.

I currently have 22.8k miles (lowered the car at 1k) after 16 months of ownership no whine, no transmission problem... Reading all these issues with gear whine and pinion issues really does scare the bejesus out of me.

Any one else went from a stock 3.31 to 3.73 and not experience any problems?
I have 3.73's right now and have no issues. Thought I has some gear whine at first but turned out to be these pos transmissions, I did order mine from the factory though
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #11
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Frak it. Installing my boss IM this Thursday. After that I'm done with this car...... Forget the 3.73 and the DS and the UCA.

I'm off to a new project which I think should be more fun. Trying my hand at restoring a 66 GT Fastback. Been looking but none available so ongoing project I guess

Want a 67 but tough as hell to find one for reasonable price near Dallas. Damn movie Gone in 60 Sec...
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:22 PM   #12
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I mean, i can't say for sure it was the drop that caused the seal to blow that early, but I'm sure it didn't help it. I haven't had any trans problems, especially after the barton 2-post install, but i have heard these pos transmissions like to whine. I have a pretty loud whine around 60-65 mph. I really think its a gear why since it only whines when i am on the gas. If its on decel, or im just coasting in neutral, no whine at all.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:55 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Evil2014GT View Post
I mean, i can't say for sure it was the drop that caused the seal to blow that early, but I'm sure it didn't help it. I haven't had any trans problems, especially after the barton 2-post install, but i have heard these pos transmissions like to whine. I have a pretty loud whine around 60-65 mph. I really think its a gear why since it only whines when i am on the gas. If its on decel, or im just coasting in neutral, no whine at all.
Oh I just realized something after you said Barton two post shifter. My transmission whined like a mofo and for a while I was like mofo'ing Barton Two Post POS shifter broke my transmission cuz that sucker whine. Then I was like wait a minute it doesn't whine all the time but just some to most of the time. Well mines more like a slightly dampened tuning for hum.

So I was messing with the shifter pushing it front and sideways. That's the whine. If I left the shifter alone and don't rest my hand on it getting ready to shift its quieter than a ninja mouse stealthing around looking for some cheddar cheese (minus my straight pipes and exhaust and all other poly urethane caused NVH that is).

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Oh I just realized something after you said Barton two post shifter. My transmission whined like a mofo and for a while I was like mofo'ing Barton Two Post POS shifter broke my transmission cuz that sucker whine. Then I was like wait a minute it doesn't whine all the time but just some to most of the time. Well mines more like a slightly dampened tuning for hum.

So I was messing with the shifter pushing it front and sideways. That's the whine. If I left the shifter alone and don't rest my hand on it getting ready to shift its quieter than a ninja mouse stealthing around looking for some cheddar cheese (minus my straight pipes and exhaust and all other poly urethane caused NVH that is).
Tuning fork hum.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:43 AM   #14
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Yes I am running the Roush, it's in my sig. Its been shot down the track well over 100 times as well. main benefit was to help consistency in acceleration on the street. Stocker it wheelhopped so bad on the BBP wheels and tires, you'd think the rear was going all American Graffiti on you. Since the upper went on, it plants harder and the transition to wheelspin is predictable and non dramatic. I can fire off low 4s to 60 all day long on dray pavement.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:10 AM   #15
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Yes I am running the Roush, it's in my sig. Its been shot down the track well over 100 times as well. main benefit was to help consistency in acceleration on the street. Stocker it wheelhopped so bad on the BBP wheels and tires, you'd think the rear was going all American Graffiti on you. Since the upper went on, it plants harder and the transition to wheelspin is predictable and non dramatic. I can fire off low 4s to 60 all day long on dray pavement.
Will that correct my pinion angle though? I read the info on it, and it states its the same piece they use on the Roush edition cars with "suspension mods", but it didnt specify how large of a drop that is.

I love the fact that it can handle the abuse, eliminate wheel hop, and is as quiet as the stock unit. Im just not sure if it will correct my angle, and i need to go with an adjustable unit instead.
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:20 AM   #16
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Can someone explain to me why pinion angle is such a big deal on our cars?
Will the roush also prevent the pinion seal from breaking?
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:28 AM   #17
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Can someone explain to me why pinion angle is such a big deal on our cars?
Will the roush also prevent the pinion seal from breaking?
Haha thinking the same thing
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:56 PM   #18
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Haha thinking the same thing
Pinion angle is important due to the forces at work in the rearend and rear suspension of a rear-wheel-drive vehicle. As power is applied to the rearend via the driveshaft, the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. This causes the rearend housing (along with the pinion gear) to rotate about the axles' centerline. The optimum relationship between the pinion gear and driveshaft is when they are perfectly aligned. In order to achieve this under power, you must have some angle built into the setup when the vehicle is at rest and not under any power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but i believe the desired optimum pinion angle for our cars is between -1.5-3.0 degrees.

Without the proper pinion angle, not only will you have more wheel hop, but you will also be putting more stress on the pinion seal, and diff.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:18 PM   #19
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Pinion angle is important due to the forces at work in the rearend and rear suspension of a rear-wheel-drive vehicle. As power is applied to the rearend via the driveshaft, the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. This causes the rearend housing (along with the pinion gear) to rotate about the axles' centerline. The optimum relationship between the pinion gear and driveshaft is when they are perfectly aligned. In order to achieve this under power, you must have some angle built into the setup when the vehicle is at rest and not under any power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but i believe the desired optimum pinion angle for our cars is between -1.5-3.0 degrees.

Without the proper pinion angle, not only will you have more wheel hop, but you will also be putting more stress on the pinion seal, and diff.
Wow this hasn't happened in awhile but I actually learned something. (not being a smart ***)
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #20
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The architecture of the Roush corrects pinion deflection in the range it is designed for. Problem is, hard to know where you started in terms of angle, as there is some variation from factory. It's sure to be closer to right than the stock unit.

I'd never want more than 2 degrees negative on a street driven 3 link car like this.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:26 PM   #21
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Can accidents knock the angle off worse (... or better) than it was? Lol

Damn it I was just rear ended on the highway in rush hour. How the hell do you hit someone in rush hour??? I hate people that tailgate. I'm outta slam my brakes on the next gater. Since my ****s messed up now already...
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:41 PM   #22
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Unless your ears are out the back window now, it isn't too likely that measure has shifted. The rear axle is fairly far upstream on these rather large cars.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
The architecture of the Roush corrects pinion deflection in the range it is designed for. Problem is, hard to know where you started in terms of angle, as there is some variation from factory. It's sure to be closer to right than the stock unit.

I'd never want more than 2 degrees negative on a street driven 3 link car like this.
Gotcha. It seems like it would definitely help get it "closer" to where it needs to be then, while still keeping the NVH down. I think i might end up going this direction. And yeah, after doing a little more research it looks like -1.5 is the spot to aim for on our cars.

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Wow this hasn't happened in awhile but I actually learned something. (not being a smart ***)
Hahaha. Glad i could help

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Unless your ears are out the back window now, it isn't too likely that measure has shifted. The rear axle is fairly far upstream on these rather large cars.
+1. I seriously doubt it would have any effect what so ever on you pinion angle, unless like 5LHO said, your car now looks like an accordion. Lol
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:26 PM   #24
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Gotcha. It seems like it would definitely help get it "closer" to where it needs to be then, while still keeping the NVH down. I think i might end up going this direction. And yeah, after doing a little more research it looks like -1.5 is the spot to aim for on our cars.

---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 PM ----------



Hahaha. Glad i could help

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+1. I seriously doubt it would have any effect what so ever on you pinion angle, unless like 5LHO said, your car now looks like an accordion. Lol
Nahh just looks like someone chewed the bump a bit to the right and center. Least its structurally sound. Saw her coming so I let off the brake and drove forward slightly a bit to soften the blow by allowing the transfer of momentum to partially dissipate by pushing the car forward. Her bumper was jacked though.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:52 PM   #25
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Nahh just looks like someone chewed the bump a bit to the right and center. Least its structurally sound. Saw her coming so I let off the brake and drove forward slightly a bit to soften the blow by allowing the transfer of momentum to partially dissipate by pushing the car forward. Her bumper was jacked though.
Feeling tired a d sleepy. This is stupid. Neck and upper back hurts. Can't straighten neck upright. Oh man. Later all
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:53 AM   #26
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I can't find the video with the OEM UCA but it moves around like crazy. I know the video I'm posting has the WL UCA but its still a good visualization on what happens with the UCA on typical driving. This piece is not something to ignore even when lowering, the whole "out of sight, out of mind" really happens with this part. People don't see the instant benefit of these like they would a tune or maybe not notice it. I track my car quite a bit, I noticed a huge difference when I went from the OEM to BMR and METCO. Both parts are like miniature tanks and really does help minimize drastic movements in the rear end.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:26 AM   #27
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It was truly an "instant benefit" putting the Roush UCA on my BBP car. The wheelhop was so bad on this car, I thought the rear was going to end up American Graffiti style. I'd get 2 out 10 times consistent acceleration on the road. Now more like 8+. Also, the traction limit is higher and when it's exceeded, it transitions smoothly to wheelspin.

Comparatively, the LCAS really didn't help much at all.
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #28
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5lho. Was your car lowered? On what?
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:18 PM   #29
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Just Brembo 5.0 55D rear springs. About 3/4-1" inch down.
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