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Old 10-29-2013, 05:34 PM   #36
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At Walmart I got the 5 qt jug for like $29 and then 3 single qts for about $7.50 a piece... I only do about 3-5k a year driving, so as a rule of thumb I change once a year
I pay about $7.50 a quart for Amsoil excluding shipping. Like you change my oil once a year.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:29 PM   #37
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I pay about $7.50 a quart for Amsoil excluding shipping. Like you change my oil once a year.
I would listen to this man, he knows what he's talking about
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:04 PM   #38
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Anyone chance there oil at 10,000 miles?
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:08 AM   #39
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Anyone chance there oil at 10,000 miles?
No, again I'm a paranoid person by nature. 3000-4000 miles for me
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:01 AM   #40
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With the amsoil I'm planning to extend it out to 6 k.... Half the oil changes but still way under the 10k amsoil is good for
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:40 AM   #41
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Anyone chance there oil at 10,000 miles?
I change mine at 5,000 and let the dealer do it since it is free (but then I don't keep cars past their warranties and I've had great luck with this dealer for many years).

Even as little as I care about longevity of my car I can't see myself ever going out to 10,000 (but then I grew up changing them at 3,000 and it took a while for me to accept that 5,000 was okay).
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:44 AM   #42
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Yea it's hard to get use to that idea, that's why there's no way I'll go out to 10k
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:05 PM   #43
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OP, congrats on being the first person to have their wtty voided due to a billet oil cap................

poor impulse control
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #44
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OP, congrats on being the first person to have their wtty voided due to a billet oil cap................ poor impulse control
How would warranty be voided because of oil if the dealer did it?
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:19 PM   #45
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How would warranty be voided because of oil if the dealer did it?
Warranty and dealerships are separate things. Factory warranty can be voided but the dealership can be held liable for any damages
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:46 PM   #46
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OP, congrats on being the first person to have their wtty voided due to a billet oil cap................

poor impulse control
That makes no sense. A billet oil cap did not cause any damage. The tech should have known better.

In order to void a warranty, Ford has to prove that the modification caused failure. In no way whatsoever, would a warranty be voided by an aftermarket oil cap. Has nothing to do with what the tech decided to put into the car. OP dont worry, people are overreacting. 5w-20 will not have done any damage to your motor, unless you have been dogging the piss outta it.

That being said, as others have stated, i would stay away from that dealer in the future, and learn to change your oil yourself. As far as your warranty goes, dont worry. I promise you, you are fine. That claim would never hold up in court.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:00 AM   #47
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OP, congrats on being the first person to have their wtty voided due to a billet oil cap................ poor impulse control
You have no idea Mud , this is a 5-0 thread you know real Mustangs lol....

---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 PM ----------

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That makes no sense. A billet oil cap did not cause any damage. The tech should have known better. In order to void a warranty, Ford has to prove that the modification caused failure. In no way whatsoever, would a warranty be voided by an aftermarket oil cap. Has nothing to do with what the tech decided to put into the car. OP dont worry, people are overreacting. 5w-20 will not have done any damage to your motor, unless you have been dogging the piss outta it. That being said, as others have stated, i would stay away from that dealer in the future, and learn to change your oil yourself. As far as your warranty goes, dont worry. I promise you, you are fine. That claim would never hold up in court.

For sure Evil I know , but it was complimentary so I had to get my free oil change, I need to buy some Rhino Ramps to change my oil since I am mechanically capable , next oil change I'm going 10w40 mobil one full synthetic maybe royal purple later down the line.....lol I hope it blows up so I can get a Boss or something...
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:14 AM   #48
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IMO, stick with what your owners manual says. Its recommend for a reason. As far as Royal Purple, you can't go wrong. Ive had nothing but RP in my engine since 2k miles.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:40 AM   #49
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Dude the internals of a track pack and a regular GT are the same. Whether 5-20 or 5-50 or 10-30 or any Timbuktu inbetween grade it still falls between the acceptable parameters.

That being said the question by mustangz was how can anything done by the dealership void the warranty. The dealership could have a performance division within its facilities and begin installing all sort of shyte.

The things installed by the dealership is separate from the factory and thus it is possible that the dealership can void warranties by incorrectly installing or replacing non-factory approved parts. If they install it or replace it under the guise of it being under factory spec then the warranty can be void but if you can prove misrepresentation by the dealership then Ford is no longer responsible but the dealership is now responsible under gross negligence unless the dealership can prove that Ford knew of their practice and either approved it or failed to rectify the situation by notification that the practice will forthrightly void the warranties after grossly being aware of the situation.

The dealership is just another shop. They can fuk up your as good as any other shop.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:01 AM   #50
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Dude the internals of a track pack and a regular GT are the same. Whether 5-20 or 5-50 or 10-30 or any Timbuktu inbetween grade it still falls between the acceptable parameters.
Right, didnt i already prove this lol. C'mon people its over.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:33 AM   #51
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So no one realised I was kidding? My bad.

Really no one?

I'll add in what I would really do is if I was really gonna track it is get the dealer to put in the heavier oil (n/c) and if not get my next change n/c. Give the dealer a chance to correct their mistake it's how they do that that is most important....we all make them (exhibit B) but then I still think it was kinda funny.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:53 AM   #52
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Dude the internals of a track pack and a regular GT are the same. Whether 5-20 or 5-50 or 10-30 or any Timbuktu inbetween grade it still falls between the acceptable parameters. That being said the question by mustangz was how can anything done by the dealership void the warranty. The dealership could have a performance division within its facilities and begin installing all sort of shyte. The things installed by the dealership is separate from the factory and thus it is possible that the dealership can void warranties by incorrectly installing or replacing non-factory approved parts. If they install it or replace it under the guise of it being under factory spec then the warranty can be void but if you can prove misrepresentation by the dealership then Ford is no longer responsible but the dealership is now responsible under gross negligence unless the dealership can prove that Ford knew of their practice and either approved it or failed to rectify the situation by notification that the practice will forthrightly void the warranties after grossly being aware of the situation. The dealership is just another shop. They can fuk up your as good as any other shop.
Exactly the reason I do everything myself, or by a specialty Mustang shop I trust... I'm a paintless dent repair vendor for various car dealerships and I'm not the least bit impressed by the techs that work in most dealerships... I'd hate to just leave my car there for service... I've repaired tons of dents made by neglectful techs... There are some good shops, but I've yet to have found a worthy Ford dealer near me... I guess I'm one if those ppl who loves their car too much -_-
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:12 AM   #53
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Warranty and dealerships are separate things. Factory warranty can be voided but the dealership can be held liable for any damages
It can not be void. The tech has a service manual he must follow not the cap, the cap is a reference. Saying the warrantee can be void for the technician putting the wrong grade of oil in because there is a different cap on the car that does not state the proper oil weight is just stupid.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:24 AM   #54
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When should I do my first oil change ?
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:37 AM   #55
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When should I do my first oil change ?
Your first should be done within 1000 miles to flush out all the crap from the assembly plant and whatever is floating around after casting; machining and your break-in. Your second service can follow the normal interval of 3000-5000 miles. Also, the first two changes should use a good quality petrol based oil--not synthetic. After those two changes, switch to synthetic and follow a 5000 mile (max) interval.


Some more advice. If you put the car away in the Winter months, change the oil, fog the motor, top up the fuel tank and add stabilizer. I'm the spring, start the car, let idle for 15min to 30min. Change the oil. Then take her out for a run.

Good luck
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:25 AM   #56
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When should I do my first oil change ?
You could just follow the manual's service intervals with a Ford approved oil and enjoy your 'stang for a long time. Ask ten owners and you will get ten different answers. Oil threads are well, interesting.....
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:35 AM   #57
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I'm old school enough to agree with MMV do the first one early use a semi-syn for the first couple then full syn. Mine is a low mileage toy so I do it every 9 months that works out to be 4x in 3yrs which is one more than the OLM suggests (not counting the 1st early change). More importantly check your oil often some of them burn a good bit in the begining...oh yeah enjoy the ride.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:17 PM   #58
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When should I do my first oil change ?
Troll
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:40 PM   #59
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Just changed my oil for the 2nd time at 9300 (first time at 4100) with redline 5w50 seems that the tick everyone has been talking about which I had after my first oil change is gone. Anxious to see if it stays that way.
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:21 PM   #60
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Just changed my oil for the 2nd time at 9300 (first time at 4100) with redline 5w50 seems that the tick everyone has been talking about which I had after my first oil change is gone. Anxious to see if it stays that way.
I've heard that ticking in my car also ... Thought it was the valve train ...tick tick tick
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:58 PM   #61
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Also, the first two changes should use a good quality petrol based oil--not synthetic. After those two changes, switch to synthetic and follow a 5000 mile (max) interval.
Waiting to use a true synthetic oil is not necessary on motor engines. Things have changed since the 70's. It's time to get with the times.

As far as changing oil at the 5000 mile mark the owners manual says 10,000 or one year. That's what the great Ford engineers say is okay. You know the Ford engineers that everyone raves about.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:30 PM   #62
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Just changed my oil for the 2nd time at 9300 (first time at 4100) with redline 5w50 seems that the tick everyone has been talking about which I had after my first oil change is gone. Anxious to see if it stays that way.
These cars will always have a slight tick because of the VCT. There are pretty loud motors. That being said, mine is slighly noticeably quieter since i changed over to Royal Purple, from the motorcrap that was in there from the dealer.

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Waiting to use a true synthetic oil is not necessary on motor engines. Things have changed since the 70's. It's time to get with the times.

As far as changing oil at the 5000 mile mark the owners manual says 10,000 or one year. That's what the great Ford engineers say is okay. You know the Ford engineers that everyone raves about.
+1 on both.

I change my oil every 7k miles. And again, thats using Royal Purple.
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:58 PM   #63
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I've heard that ticking in my car also ... Thought it was the valve train ...tick tick tick
Mine was more of a random tick tick. It'll like tick randomly two or three times then stop for a min then tick again and pause. Not a consistent tick just very random
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:04 PM   #64
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Waiting to use a true synthetic oil is not necessary on motor engines. Things have changed since the 70's. It's time to get with the times. As far as changing oil at the 5000 mile mark the owners manual says 10,000 or one year. That's what the great Ford engineers say is okay. You know the Ford engineers that everyone raves about.

I agree with you and the owners manual, however, the service interval is based on normal daily driving use---I don't know about you, but most GT owners I know, don't drive 'normal'. Plus if you factor in the variability of the fuel people use (I use strictly Shell or Sunoco) then the longevity of the oil--synthetic or not--can be severely impacted. Regarding my other comment about 'waiting to use synthetic'...well, I guess that's my own personal view, however, ring seals; valve seals, valve retainers; wrist pins; main bearings..I could go on..haven't changed all that much in terms of their general design over the years. Sure, the metallurgy has gotten much better and so have the tolerances but in the end everything needs to be broken in. Remember that the car companies try to design quality in, but the accountants always win whenever pennies are involved. My point is, even though engines and their respective designs are much much better than they were 20 or 30 years ago, they still aren't as good as they should be. A little extra precaution here and there from us as owners never hurts...
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:05 AM   #65
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I agree with you and the owners manual, however, the service interval is based on normal daily driving use---I don't know about you, but most GT owners I know, don't drive 'normal'. Plus if you factor in the variability of the fuel people use (I use strictly Shell or Sunoco) then the longevity of the oil--synthetic or not--can be severely impacted. Regarding my other comment about 'waiting to use synthetic'...well, I guess that's my own personal view, however, ring seals; valve seals, valve retainers; wrist pins; main bearings..I could go on..haven't changed all that much in terms of their general design over the years. Sure, the metallurgy has gotten much better and so have the tolerances but in the end everything needs to be broken in. Remember that the car companies try to design quality in, but the accountants always win whenever pennies are involved. My point is, even though engines and their respective designs are much much better than they were 20 or 30 years ago, they still aren't as good as they should be. A little extra precaution here and there from us as owners never hurts...
Dude you are way over thinking this. First of all these cars come with semi synthetic from the factory. So your statement of using conventional oil goes right out the window there. And the majority of Mustang owners, at least on forums switch to full synthetic on their first oil change. When was the last time you heard of an engine failure on any car that made the switch? Heck some cars come with synthetic right from the factory. Are you going to try and tell me their built differently?
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:21 AM   #66
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Dude you are way over thinking this. First of all these cars come with semi synthetic from the factory. So your statement of using conventional oil goes right out the window there. And the majority of Mustang owners, at least on forums switch to full synthetic on their first oil change. When was the last time you heard of an engine failure on any car that made the switch? Heck some cars come with synthetic right from the factory. Are you going to try and tell me their built differently?
Not disagreeing with you. Until the factory actually does begin using full synthetic right out of the box, I say-and this is my opinion-continue using a petrol based oil (semi synthetic or not) for at least the first two changes. Then switch to full synthetic. If the car came with full synthetic from the factory, there would be no need to use petrol based oil at all.
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:34 AM   #67
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Mine was more of a random tick tick. It'll like tick randomly two or three times then stop for a min then tick again and pause. Not a consistent tick just very random

Mines is also random ...the first time I heard i was like wtf is that sound ....it's gonna tick with all those valves and cams and variable timing I'm guessing....
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:40 AM   #68
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Mines is also random ...the first time I heard i was like wtf is that sound ....it's gonna tick with all those valves and cams and variable timing I'm guessing....
That's what I figured. Like I said it seemed to go away after I put in redline 5w50. It may be back it may not. Car is running great and I can't complain.
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:05 PM   #69
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Don't even sweat the 5 w 20. You will be fine.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:28 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by MMVEC View Post

Your first should be done within 1000 miles to flush out all the crap from the assembly plant and whatever is floating around after casting; machining and your break-in. Your second service can follow the normal interval of 3000-5000 miles. Also, the first two changes should use a good quality petrol based oil--not synthetic. After those two changes, switch to synthetic and follow a 5000 mile (max) interval.

Some more advice. If you put the car away in the Winter months, change the oil, fog the motor, top up the fuel tank and add stabilizer. I'm the spring, start the car, let idle for 15min to 30min. Change the oil. Then take her out for a run.

Good luck
If you follow this. Your next two should be synthetic blend. That is what Ford put in our cars from factory after that then go to a full synthetic. Do not go to a normal petrol stick to what Ford started with.[COLOR="Silver"]
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