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Old 11-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #71
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How much HP can you get with a Supercharger and actually get it to hook on street tires? I mean I see these 5 and 600 hp engines but can you really get it to hook up and go?
With the right tires, suspension mods and practice launching. You can get it to hook up.

My GT is stock other than 275 nitto 555 and playing around with the traction control. I have been averaging about 4.6 second 0-60 times. With a best of 4.4 and a worse (traction control off completely) off 5.2

I would say with 5-600 hp you would need 295-315 wide tires minimum to get it to hook up decent.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #72
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With the right tires, suspension mods and practice launching. You can get it to hook up. My GT is stock other than 275 nitto 555 and playing around with the traction control. I have been averaging about 4.6 second 0-60 times. With a best of 4.4 and a worse (traction control off completely) off 5.2 I would say with 5-600 hp you would need 295-315 wide tires minimum to get it to hook up decent.

Which is why I have been hesitant to start with the engine. I am really considering getting the Procharger 1-i or i-1. Can't remember which one is the correct one. But when I told a co worker that I seen a video on two guys garage they put one on a stock engine and got some serious gains and mentioned with a built motor you could get up to 900 he said there is no point because you couldn't get all that power to hook.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #73
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Which is why I have been hesitant to start with the engine. I am really considering getting the Procharger 1-i or i-1. Can't remember which one is the correct one. But when I told a co worker that I seen a video on two guys garage they put one on a stock engine and got some serious gains and mentioned with a built motor you could get up to 900 he said there is no point because you couldn't get all that power to hook.
You can bc its not instant. It will take some time for the power/tq to hit. Its not like nitrous where the power is instant. Just get your suspension set up. And a good set of tires. Nt05rs are dam good
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:25 PM   #74
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You can bc its not instant. It will take some time for the power/tq to hit. Its not like nitrous where the power is instant. Just get your suspension set up. And a good set of tires. Nt05rs are dam good
Procharger claims that the I-1 gives instant power just like a twin screw. But the only way to verify would to get real people to test it.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:53 PM   #75
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With the right tires, suspension mods and practice launching. You can get it to hook up.

My GT is stock other than 275 nitto 555 and playing around with the traction control. I have been averaging about 4.6 second 0-60 times. With a best of 4.4 and a worse (traction control off completely) off 5.2

I would say with 5-600 hp you would need 295-315 wide tires minimum to get it to hook up decent.
I run 295/30/20 rear , with offset 255/35/20 front Toyo Proxy 4's to hook up I will need those once my Blower is installed lol..
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:08 PM   #76
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Procharger claims that the I-1 gives instant power just like a twin screw. But the only way to verify would to get real people to test it.

That's what I read about it. I have never used nitrous and I am not against it for whatever reason it just doesn't appeal to me. I like the fact that you can turn it on and off as well. On the fly. With the access code security and all the other goodies. Just don't know where to put that panel yet.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:54 AM   #77
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Procharger claims that the I-1 gives instant power just like a twin screw. But the only way to verify would to get real people to test it.
Twin screw is superior to a external supercharger there is a reason cars like the ZR1 use a twin screw configuration . With a twin screw power is instant and power is consistent right through the rpm range. I'm not saying prochargers aren't good but they cannot compete with twin screw designs.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:29 PM   #78
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Twin screw is superior to a external supercharger there is a reason cars like the ZR1 use a twin screw configuration . With a twin screw power is instant and power is consistent right through the rpm range. I'm not saying prochargers aren't good but they cannot compete with twin screw designs.
Yes they can bc twin screws/ roots get heatsoaked horribly. Plus they do not have any topend. if both cars are completely equal in hp. The centri car will pull the twin screw car
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #79
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Yes they can bc twin screws/ roots get heatsoaked horribly. Plus they do not have any topend. if both cars are completely equal in hp. The centri car will pull the twin screw car
Sort of true. My roots blower is consistant across the rpm band. Heat is the issue I run into.

For those worrying about hooking just get the right suspension and tires. I have no issue dead hooking on the street.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:47 PM   #80
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Sort of true. My roots blower is consistant across the rpm band. Heat is the issue I run into.

For those worrying about hooking just get the right suspension and tires. I have no issue dead hooking on the street.
I had a 03 cobra also. It didnt have the topend hit that at my coyote has. Hit it from 80+ you can tell its not as hard of a pull vs from 40.

---------- Post added at 01:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 PM ----------

The methanol helped the heat soak on my cobra. You could tell a diff
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:48 PM   #81
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Sort of true. My roots blower is consistant across the rpm band. Heat is the issue I run into. For those worrying about hooking just get the right suspension and tires. I have no issue dead hooking on the street.

Sounds like my co worker was kinda jealous of the numbers I was giving him then lol. So the Procharger isn't a bad choice?
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:42 PM   #82
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That's what I read about it. I have never used nitrous and I am not against it for whatever reason it just doesn't appeal to me. I like the fact that you can turn it on and off as well. On the fly. With the access code security and all the other goodies. Just don't know where to put that panel yet.
Put the panel in your cup holder. It already has a door to hide the switches.
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:03 PM   #83
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You cant beat nitrous.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:01 PM   #84
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Put the panel in your cup holder. It already has a door to hide the switches.

It looks too big to fit in there. Or do you mean take the cup holders out and retro fit it in there? Who in the world uses those anyways? I put my cell phone in there and that's about it.

---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ----------

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You cant beat nitrous.
Idk. To me it's cheap to put nitrous in a car for a reason. It seems like the motor goes bad a lot quicker that way.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:01 PM   #85
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Far from cheap if you do it the right way.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:04 PM   #86
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Far from cheap if you do it the right way.

Didn't you blow yours up not too long ago?
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #87
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Didn't you blow yours up not too long ago?
Yup. Sure did. Maybe it was all planned?
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:09 PM   #88
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Yup. Sure did. Maybe it was all planned?
HAHAHAHAHA!!! Maybe it was. Idk man. I just don't have the heart to get nitrous knowing I'm more likely to blow it up. If this was my 2nd or 3rd mustang I would. Just to do something different.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:10 PM   #89
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It looks too big to fit in there. Or do you mean take the cup holders out and retro fit it in there? Who in the world uses those anyways? I put my cell phone in there and that's about it.
Yeah take them out and fit it in. My phone I leave in my side pocket of my jeans. I only wear carpenter jeans. When I install nitrous thats where my panel is going. I want my car to look as stock as possible when doing performance mods. The bottle will go where the spare tire is. As for the nitrous lines and wires i'm going to hide them as well.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #90
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HAHAHAHAHA!!! Maybe it was. Idk man. I just don't have the heart to get nitrous knowing I'm more likely to blow it up. If this was my 2nd or 3rd mustang I would. Just to do something different.
My wife said I couldn't spend the money to go fully built unless something hapened. So.......lol
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:19 PM   #91
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HAHAHAHAHA!!! Maybe it was. Idk man. I just don't have the heart to get nitrous knowing I'm more likely to blow it up. If this was my 2nd or 3rd mustang I would. Just to do something different.
Get the 150 shot NX wet system it come with 35, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 shot jets. It comes with the safety features needed so you don't blow up your motor. That's what i'm getting when the warrantee runs out. I don't do a lot of WOT on the streets if I do it's usually just 0-60. The only time I will use the system is at the strip. I go there about twice a month May threw September. But when the warrantee is out and if the motor blows. Then I'm going forged and 200 shot minimum.

Wet system is the best way to go.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #92
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Get the 150 shot NX wet system it come with 35, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 shot jets. It comes with the safety features needed so you don't blow up your motor. That's what i'm getting when the warrantee runs out. I don't do a lot of WOT on the streets if I do it's usually just 0-60. The only time I will use the system is at the strip. I go there about twice a month May threw September. But when the warrantee is out and if the motor blows. Then I'm going forged and 200 shot minimum. Wet system is the best way to go.
Should I forge before putting on a supercharger?
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #93
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The stock pistons in the 5.0 are complete ****. If you abuse your car and it has 550 plus. You will see
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:00 PM   #94
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The stock pistons in the 5.0 are complete ****. If you abuse your car and it has 550 plus. You will see
How much does it cost to forge and what does forging do exactly? Are you doing it yourself?
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:09 PM   #95
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How much does it cost to forge and what does forging do exactly? Are you doing it yourself?
Forged just means forged crank/rods/pistons. I had lethal performance out in san atonio tx do mine. Total price was $5,300 out the door
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #96
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Forged just means forged crank/rods/pistons. I had lethal performance out in san atonio tx do mine. Total price was $5,300 out the door

Ouch! Didn't think if would be nearly that expensive. But you don't get any gains right? You are just making it stronger for more HP from other add ons?
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:30 PM   #97
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How much does it cost to forge and what does forging do exactly? Are you doing it yourself?
Forged is where your motor is tore down and most of the internals are made of forged alloys. Much stronger than most stock motor internals. No I do not work on the internal parts of the motor I only work on basic mods that bolt on.

Rapinator didn't yours blow up because of tuning issues? The coyotes can handle a 150 shot no problem. They are good up to around 700hp at the crank after that motor work will need done. My friend has full bolt ons, emission legal bolt ons that is and a 150 shot he's had no issues for the past year. His car put 533hp to the tire.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #98
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Forged is where your motor is tore down and most of the internals are made of forged alloys. Much stronger than most stock motor internals. No I do not work on the internal parts of the motor I only work on basic mods that bolt on.

Rapinator didn't yours blow up because of tuning issues? The coyotes can handle a 150 shot no problem. They are good up to around 700hp at the crank after that motor work will need done. My friend has full bolt ons, emission legal bolt ons that is and a 150 shot he's had no issues for the past year. His car put 533hp to the tire.
Mine went on a 200 shot.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:43 PM   #99
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Forged is where your motor is tore down and most of the internals are made of forged alloys. Much stronger than most stock motor internals. No I do not work on the internal parts of the motor I only work on basic mods that bolt on.

Rapinator didn't yours blow up because of tuning issues? The coyotes can handle a 150 shot no problem. They are good up to around 700hp at the crank after that motor work will need done. My friend has full bolt ons, emission legal bolt ons that is and a 150 shot he's had no issues for the past year. His car put 533hp to the tire.
Anything over 500 RWHP and your asking for trouble , get ready to pay large when the engine blows , or spend the money go forged internals then you can run 700 RWHP or more but you will need to upgrade your transmission , rear end , suspension etc... all costs lots of $$$$. Good luck trying too hook up with that much power , there is such a thing as overkill lol...

Just for street use I think 500RWHP is plenty that's roughly what my mustang will have , running stock . Nitrous is ok but a BLOWER has power ALL the time , no bottle to run dry , big difference .
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:44 PM   #100
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Anything over 500 RWHP and your asking for trouble , get ready to pay large when the engine blows , or spend the money go forged internals then you can run 700 RWHP or more but you will need to upgrade your transmission , rear end , suspension etc... all costs lots of $$$$. Good luck trying too hook up with that much power , there is such a thing as overkill lol...

Just for street use I think 500RWHP is plenty that's roughly what my mustang will have , running stock . Nitrous is ok but a BLOWER has power ALL the time , no bottle to run dry , big difference .
Some of the stuff you are saying is not true
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:58 PM   #101
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Anything over 500 RWHP and your asking for trouble , get ready to pay large when the engine blows , or spend the money go forged internals then you can run 700 RWHP or more but you will need to upgrade your transmission , rear end , suspension etc... all costs lots of $$$$. Good luck trying too hook up with that much power , there is such a thing as overkill lol... Just for street use I think 500RWHP is plenty that's roughly what my mustang will have , running stock . Nitrous is ok but a BLOWER has power ALL the time , no bottle to run dry , big difference .
Blowers heat soak really easily. Hot air means less power. A car with nitrous doesn't heat soak, which means you don't lose power.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:37 PM   #102
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Blowers heat soak really easily. Hot air means less power. A car with nitrous doesn't heat soak, which means you don't lose power.
Not all blowers heat soak. Centri blowers are extremely efficient and will maintain -20/+20 degrees of ambient. Twin screws are also effecient enough to avoid heat soak in most cases (especially the larger blowers like the 3.6lc Kenny belle or 3.4+ whipple). Twin screws will maintain constant boost all the way through the rpm range as well.

The heat soak issue is very prevalent in roots style blowers like the cobra, gt500, lightning, zl1 and just about any other factory supercharged car. A whole lot of info in this thread is untrue...

Also the I-1 procharger has a electric motor with variable blower ratios. The blower has the ability to make instant boost just like a twin screw design does also.

Fwiw, alot said about nitrous is true. I used to use a 75 shot on my lightning to cool down my ported eaton blower.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #103
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Anything over 500 RWHP and your asking for trouble , get ready to pay large when the engine blows , or spend the money go forged internals then you can run 700 RWHP or more but you will need to upgrade your transmission , rear end , suspension etc... all costs lots of $$$$. Good luck trying too hook up with that much power , there is such a thing as overkill lol...

Just for street use I think 500RWHP is plenty that's roughly what my mustang will have , running stock . Nitrous is ok but a BLOWER has power ALL the time , no bottle to run dry , big difference .
500+ is asking for trouble. You do not know what you are talking about. If that was true Rousch would never offer a stage two or three. Both produce over 500rwhp and they are designed to bolt straight up to a stock coyote. Not to mention my friend has bolt ons and a 150 shot and 533whp for about a year now. His motor is running top notch no problems.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:48 AM   #104
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Blowers heat soak really easily. Hot air means less power. A car with nitrous doesn't heat soak, which means you don't lose power.
That's definitely not true...when the bottle is empty there is a big drop off in power
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:58 AM   #105
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500+ is asking for trouble. You do not know what you are talking about. If that was true Rousch would never offer a stage two or three. Both produce over 500rwhp and they are designed to bolt straight up to a stock coyote. Not to mention my friend has bolt ons and a 150 shot and 533whp for about a year now. His motor is running top notch no problems.
Small corrections...it's Roush and Phase 2, or 3 is what I think you meant to say.

---------- Post added at 05:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:55 AM ----------

I was told by one of the Roush techs that the stock Coyote is good to about 650 crank HP...after that you will be driving on borrowed time until something gives...that time is dependent on how hard you push it and how often.
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