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Old 11-09-2013, 02:10 PM   #1
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Transmission/ Rear End Questions

First off... I did do a search as I know there are plenty of threads discussing similar issues but not exactly describing what's going on here.

I have a 2013 5.0 M6 with 19k. It is lowered on Sportlines with Whiteline rear brace and PH. Lately, when shifting especially from first to second and sometimes from second to third, the shifts are very jerky. I have no issues getting the car into gear... no grinding (knocks on woods), and I do know how to drive a manual... lol If I really try and slowly release the clutch and give it gas I can get the shift to engage smoothly.

Now, I guess that leads to my next questions. I have read countless times about the pinion angle of the rear end once lowered and the suspension geometry, etc... Does anyone else have this problem and does anyone with some experience with this issue believe that this could be causing the jerky shifts? I do plan on an adjustable upper and lower control arms with reloc brackets no matter what, but I just wanted some input on this.

Thanks in advance for the help guys!
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:01 PM   #2
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How much drop? Like 1.7" IDK but I know it's a drop. If you do not have the relocation brackets with the drop I figure you have.... you actually lifting the tires instead of planting. You for sure need relocation brackets. You don't need adjustable LCA's. You can get a good set of fix length. Your pinion angle is off and you will need to make a careful selection in the UCA/UCM you get and it does need to be adjustable. If it's a DD and you are not looking to induce a lot of NVH I would go with METCO, CHE, or BMR. JMO......As long as you are staying with stock 2-piece DS you will get by but I would be making progress on susp. mods number one over anything else.

Jerky?....Explain this little more
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #3
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How much drop? Like 1.7" IDK but I know it's a drop. If you do not have the relocation brackets with the drop I figure you have.... you actually lifting the tires instead of planting. You for sure need relocation brackets. You don't need adjustable LCA's. You can get a good set of fix length. Your pinion angle is off and you will need to make a careful selection in the UCA/UCM you get and it does need to be adjustable. If it's a DD and you are not looking to induce a lot of NVH I would go with METCO, CHE, or BMR. JMO......As long as you are staying with stock 2-piece DS you will get by but I would be making progress on susp. mods number one over anything else.

Jerky?....Explain this little more
Well, I do know what the reloc brackets do and how it helps, etc. I also know that the pinion angle is off which is why an upper control arm is prioritized on the list.

The bucking/ jerky shifts were basically the question that I was curious about and if anyone thought the pinion angle had anything do with it. Basically, it almost feels like someone is learning to drive manual all over again... lol No I'm not a n0ob to manual either. Another way to explain it would be for example... crusing at 25 MPH in second gear. If I let off the gas, it's like there is excessive play in the drivetrain. When I take my foot off the gas it bucks forward to decel instead of just smoothly going from acceleration to deceleration. Same in the opposite way. If I go to hit the gas again just to slowly accelerate, it seems as though there is a "loose" spot and it jerks from decel to accel. And if you give it enough throttle, you can clearly hear a thud. I know it seems like such a n0ob question and I am no stranger to Mustangs or Ford for that matter, this is just getting on my nerves.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:08 PM   #4
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Well, I do know what the reloc brackets do and how it helps, etc. I also know that the pinion angle is off which is why an upper control arm is prioritized on the list.

The bucking/ jerky shifts were basically the question that I was curious about and if anyone thought the pinion angle had anything do with it. Basically, it almost feels like someone is learning to drive manual all over again... lol No I'm not a n0ob to manual either. Another way to explain it would be for example... crusing at 25 MPH in second gear. If I let off the gas, it's like there is excessive play in the drivetrain. When I take my foot off the gas it bucks forward to decel instead of just smoothly going from acceleration to deceleration. Same in the opposite way. If I go to hit the gas again just to slowly accelerate, it seems as though there is a "loose" spot and it jerks from decel to accel. And if you give it enough throttle, you can clearly hear a thud. I know it seems like such a n0ob question and I am no stranger to Mustangs or Ford for that matter, this is just getting on my nerves.
I feel what you saying man. Was the car new or used? The only thing that comes to mind here is 3 things. Is there a clutch issue or internal issue? The other is with the 2 piece DS you could have a bad apple. I mean they all have a tad play but I don't know. Pinion angle would be a concern. No pinion seal bad or any indication? The MT-82 is the weak link or one serious one anyway. If it's not modded a lot....You would cuss I am sure but put it back to stock and see and if it does carry it in man. Hard to say without knowing history of car but it sounding like MT-82 and or clutch related with the chatter and how you describe it.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #5
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I bought the car literally brand new, not even test drive miles. Came off the truck with 2 miles and that's how I picked it up. I'm leaning towards pinion angle issues to be honest. I do track the car a bit but everything besides this bucking seems solid. The shifting is actually very decent contrary to the horror stories out there about the MT82. It's just this bucking issue but I guess I will install the UCA and hope that takes care of it. If not, I will be severely disappointed and very worried as to what the issue may be.
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:53 PM   #6
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Doesn't sound like a pinion angle problem to me. I have a '14 with 16k on it with steeda ultralites, and am still on the stock uca. Although i do have koni strs, lcas and relo brackets. Nonetheless, my pinion angle is still off as well, and i have no problems with jerky shifting. Only thing i get every once and awhile is the noisy clunk this POS 2-piece driveshaft makes, especially at low speeds, such as in a parking lot.

I suspect thats what you're are hearing as well. These ds are noisy as hell at low speeds. If you are actually getting a "bucking" or "jerking" feeling to your shifts, than i believe its something else.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:32 AM   #7
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Doesn't sound like a pinion angle problem to me. I have a '14 with 16k on it with steeda ultralites, and am still on the stock uca. Although i do have koni strs, lcas and relo brackets. Nonetheless, my pinion angle is still off as well, and i have no problems with jerky shifting. Only thing i get every once and awhile is the noisy clunk this POS 2-piece driveshaft makes, especially at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. I suspect thats what you're are hearing as well. These ds are noisy as hell at low speeds. If you are actually getting a "bucking" or "jerking" feeling to your shifts, than i believe its something else.
So after a 1 piece that low speed clunking is gone?
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:39 AM   #8
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So after a 1 piece that low speed clunking is gone?
It will help. These 2-piece driveshafts are very noisy.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:59 AM   #9
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^ True.... the one piece is great but if you are lowered you HAVE to do the adj. UCA/UCM....I have a 1-piece alum. sitting here for over a month to put in. I'm waiting on Black Friday to buy a METCO or CHE.
It will clean up that noise but you pick up some NVH depending on which UCA you buy. You gonna get NVH with them all but some are more than others. If you stuck a 1-piece on without doing UCA , you will have bad pinion angle which you do now if lowered much but getting buy with it. I wouldn't want to do something to risk blowing pinion seal or any other damage. I don't do any tracking like it is now just for the reason.

The big advantage is you drop around 20LBS of rotating mass.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:13 AM   #10
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^ True.... the one piece is great but if you are lowered you HAVE to do the adj. UCA/UCM....I have a 1-piece alum. sitting here for over a month to put in. I'm waiting on Black Friday to buy a METCO or CHE.
It will clean up that noise but you pick up some NVH depending on which UCA you buy. You gonna get NVH with them all but some are more than others. If you stuck a 1-piece on without doing UCA , you will have bad pinion angle which you do now if lowered much but getting buy with it. I wouldn't want to do something to risk blowing pinion seal or any other damage. I don't do any tracking like it is now just for the reason.
Not necessarily true. I BELIEVE the 1 piece draftshaft will often come with a new pinion flange to correct pinion angle, therefore eliminating the "need" to install a uca. Someone correct me if im wrong.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #11
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Be careful with that thinking......Read up on the DS you buy. Some will say it's ok with only this,that and the other drop. I would not even consider risking things much less good performance to save on not buying UCA/UCM. I have many hours in this reading and making sure. Spend the money and buy the best UCA/UCM for DD and it's done. Set pinion angle and have your car correct. I can give you some good places that explain it very well if you wanna read them. As for DS... you may see DSS or others. Then look at Shaftmasters.

** If you are dropped 1-1/2 for example.....Your angle is off NOW! Unless Are you trying to correct it with adj. LCA's? Not good idea IMO....your changing the wheel base and can mess up if done to much
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:46 PM   #12
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Be careful with that thinking......Read up on the DS you buy. Some will say it's ok with only this,that and the other drop. I would not even consider risking things much less good performance to save on not buying UCA/UCM. I have many hours in this reading and making sure. Spend the money and buy the best UCA/UCM for DD and it's done. Set pinion angle and have your car correct. I can give you some good places that explain it very well if you wanna read them. As for DS... you may see DSS or others. Then look at Shaftmasters.

** If you are dropped 1-1/2 for example.....Your angle is off NOW! Unless Are you trying to correct it with adj. LCA's? Not good idea IMO....your changing the wheel base and can mess up if done to much
No i understand that, obviously my pinion angle is off now, but ive read, depending on the pinion flange you get with the new 1 piece, you can correct your pinion angle with that. Im not 100% sure of this, and obviously it will vary depending on the driveshaft you get. Ive done a ton of research on pinion angle, ucas, lcas, relo brackets, etc., but have done much reading on different DSs and pinion flanges.
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