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Old 12-29-2013, 07:51 PM   #1
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How much should a new clutch cost

I have a 2011 5.0 and was wondering what a new clutch will cost me some day and if I should let the dealer do it or take it to a local shop? Do you need to have the flywheel cut?
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:06 PM   #2
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Stock Boss 302 clutch, about 300, labour varies depending on shop rate, 600-1000, yes, cut the flywheel.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:50 AM   #3
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I would go aftermarket of you are going to do it. And do not have the dealer install it, that'll cost you $2k and it'll be OEM parts.
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:26 AM   #4
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My dealer wants 1k to install alone if I bring the parts.

My indy mechanic wants 450-500 to install spec 3+ new fly wheel, new cable.

Always find a good indy mechanic
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:54 AM   #5
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There's nothing wrong with oem parts if they suit the intentions. The B302 clutch is an easy driving cheap mild upgrade with no downsides.

Don't overclutch the car, it just makes daily driving harder and adds unexpected stresses to parts like the throwout bearing and input shaft.

You definitely want the clutch to be the thing in the driveline thst lets go first if stressed. The alternative is snapped input shaft or gear teeth.
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Old 12-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #6
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How much should a new clutch cost

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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
There's nothing wrong with oem parts if they suit the intentions. The B302 clutch is an easy driving cheap mild upgrade with no downsides.

Don't overclutch the car, it just makes daily driving harder and adds unexpected stresses to parts like the throwout bearing and input shaft.

You definitely want the clutch to be the thing in the driveline thst lets go first if stressed. The alternative is snapped input shaft or gear teeth.

Okay now I don't know this for 100% sure, but I don't think the boss clutch is an easy swap. A close friend of mine upgraded to a boss clutch he got from a guy in our car club with a boss. It had literally 1100 miles on it and he had a shop install. The boss clutch and stock flywheel (resurfaced) vibrated horribly and his clutch felt like a pogo stick. After taking it back and adding a boss flywheel , throw out bearing, changing fluids, and adding stainless clutch lines he finally has a good set-up, but it's still a stock boss set-up.

I think the Mach, exedy or RAM clutches would be much better choices and probably come out cheaper.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:14 PM   #7
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You're not seriously suggesting the boss setup is bad because one friend had trouble after installing used, mismatched parts? There's so many ways this could have got screwed up that don't have anything to do with whether the boss clutch us good or not.

Heck, there are people here pumping supercharger boost through the stock, non-boss clutch. It's only a matter of time in my view there but the fact it's holding at all is impressive. I've also shoved my full weight car downtrack over 100 times on clutch dump launches up to 6k on drag slicks and theres no signs of distress yet.

All of the aftermarket setups overclutch the car if you're sticking with the stock rev limit and naturally aspirated tune and bolt on stuff. This will put more strain on the transmission and related parts, probably unnecessarily.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
You're not seriously suggesting the boss setup is bad because one friend had trouble after installing used, mismatched parts? There's so many ways this could have got screwed up that don't have anything to do with whether the boss clutch us good or not.



Heck, there are people here pumping supercharger boost through the stock, non-boss clutch. It's only a matter of time in my view there but the fact it's holding at all is impressive. I've also shoved my full weight car downtrack over 100 times on clutch dump launches up to 6k on drag slicks and theres no signs of distress yet.



All of the aftermarket setups overclutch the car if you're sticking with the stock rev limit and naturally aspirated tune and bolt on stuff. This will put more strain on the transmission and related parts, probably unnecessarily.

Used and mismatched? You mean almost new OEM parts? I honestly couldn't even make myself develop the slightest notion of care with what your car has done or what you do with it. All I know is that my friend has had all kinds of issues with his and I thought I would put that thought down on the table. I also never said the boss clutch wasn't good but instead said an aftermarket clutch could be a cheaper better option. Also I don't see why there are literally hundreds of people with aftermarket clutches in their 5.0s if the boss clutch is the end all- be all of clutches... That is all
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:29 PM   #9
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Yeah, I'll slow it down a little for you, since you're so angry and you're not really listening:

You can't reuse a clutch disc, full stop. If youre lucky, the pressure plate is allright but you better make really sure it's completely flat and mint in surface condition. Then you cross your fingers the flywheel and PP end up parallel to one another.

Then theres the who knows what kind of workmanship on the flywheel machining, something a lot of parts stores screw up for you these days because they don't buy the proper equipment.

As I said, way too many ways for things to go wrong to go with used parts here, especially given the hassle of disassebly/reassembly.

Overclutching the car may have no negative effects, until you test it with some hard racing on sticky tires or use a power adder. You can also find the fact the factory throwout is not really up for much more spring pressure than stock might cause an issue down the road.

I've seen my share of busted input shafts, stripped gears and locked up boxes from this kind of stuff, in 30 years in this hobby and in the shop. You do what you like, someone like me is always near to pick up the pieces, especially for a fee.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:49 PM   #10
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Just to clear a little bit up. The flywheels on the 5.0 and Boss are completely different. If you swap either you have to replace everything. I'm almost certain that the Boss has a 9 bolt flywheel and the 5.0 had a 8 bolt. That's why if I ever replace my clutch, I will 100% have to replace the flywheel as well, which you should do anyways.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:50 PM   #11
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The 2011s have the 8 bolt. 2012 and up should have the same flywheel as Boss, as that was part of fixing the pressure plate bolt backout problem.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
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The 2011s have the 8 bolt. 2012 and up should have the same flywheel as Boss, as that was part of fixing the pressure plate bolt backout problem.
Interesting. I didn't know that
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:07 PM   #13
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The whole kit and caboodle, including the flywheel and new bolts, can be had online for under 500. Obviously, less if you reuse your extant GT flywheel and get it cut right. Lots of people have done this as a low cost upgrade. The Boss clutch lets you rev higher without the stickout problems GT clutch gives you.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:17 AM   #14
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The 2011s have the 8 bolt. 2012 and up should have the same flywheel as Boss, as that was part of fixing the pressure plate bolt backout problem.

What does this sound like when in backs out? I just happened to see this and I was talking to my dad about a rattling noise I've been hearing like 10 mjnutes before..
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:25 AM   #15
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Not so much sound as rough shifting in all weather. Bad enough and you'll be gearblovked from all gears.

Some low speed gear rattle isn't too uncommon on some MT 82s. You can drive around it if you try a little bit and it isn't really a durability concern
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:31 AM   #16
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It's just when I'm driving real casual shifting through the gear.. As I let off the gas and I THINK before I press the clutch in to switch gears just a lil rattle. almost sounds like it's from up front.. More noticeable in the 2-3,3-4 shifts.
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:38 AM   #17
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A SPEC 2+ has decent streetability, Exedy mach 4 clutch is good too... both for single disc. If you plan on getting an aftermarket kit and you mainly DD your car the boss clutch and fly isn't that bad and the streetability is there. I'd personally get an aftermarket with steel flywheel because plans change and wanting more HP will happen.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:23 AM   #18
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It's just when I'm driving real casual shifting through the gear.. As I let off the gas and I THINK before I press the clutch in to switch gears just a lil rattle. almost sounds like it's from up front.. More noticeable in the 2-3,3-4 shifts.
Yeah, rev her up s touch more because you're lugging it just a tad, like I said.
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:52 PM   #19
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It's not lugging.. I know what that sounds like.
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:58 PM   #20
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You said it yourself, when you're driving really gentle. This means you may not be lugging the engine but, you are certainly not loading up the driveline. This is what leads to clunks from the DS and rattles from the gearbox in this car.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:01 PM   #21
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Actually I said driving casual.. As in normal. Not gentle.. It will do this at as high as 3k after that it gets harder to hear over the engine so don't know if it's still happening at higher rpm
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:04 PM   #22
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Regardless, it's gear rattle from the MT, most likely. Any clutch bolt back out issues and you would soon not be able to shift the car.

You might try a heavier weight trans oil, like Redline MT-90 and see if that helps diminish it. MT-90 sounds really heavy but, it shifts really well, despite that.
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:06 PM   #23
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Yeah, I'll slow it down a little for you, since you're so angry and you're not really listening:

You can't reuse a clutch disc, full stop. If youre lucky, the pressure plate is allright but you better make really sure it's completely flat and mint in surface condition. Then you cross your fingers the flywheel and PP end up parallel to one another.

Then theres the who knows what kind of workmanship on the flywheel machining, something a lot of parts stores screw up for you these days because they don't buy the proper equipment.

As I said, way too many ways for things to go wrong to go with used parts here, especially given the hassle of disassebly/reassembly.

Overclutching the car may have no negative effects, until you test it with some hard racing on sticky tires or use a power adder. You can also find the fact the factory throwout is not really up for much more spring pressure than stock might cause an issue down the road.

I've seen my share of busted input shafts, stripped gears and locked up boxes from this kind of stuff, in 30 years in this hobby and in the shop. You do what you like, someone like me is always near to pick up the pieces, especially for a fee.
You seem knowledgable about clutches and I wanted your view. Is the 2011 -13 5.0 clutch difficult to replace compared to prior years? Why I'm asking is because I know a local shop and I'm not sure if I can trust them with my baby or I should take it to the dealer that has done many before. It is an honest question and I am not a mechanic so I would appreciate your 2 cents.
Thank You
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:22 PM   #24
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There is nothing in the factory manual or in my inspection that indicates this job is anything significantly different than generations of RWD cars before it. Yank the driveshaft, yank the exhaust, the starter, crossmember, the trans and there you are, same as always. At least you don't have to remove the shifter when you do this one, just the trim an knob.

The only unique consideration is the crapshoot on whether you'll have to do a crank profile relearn after the job. Odds favour that you won't but, no guarantees.

Personally, I wouldn't think twice about doing this job myself. No problem, whatsoever.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:41 PM   #25
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There is nothing in the factory manual or in my inspection that indicates this job is anything significantly different than generations of RWD cars before it. Yank the driveshaft, yank the exhaust, the starter, crossmember, the trans and there you are, same as always. At least you don't have to remove the shifter when you do this one, just the trim an knob.

The only unique consideration is the crapshoot on whether you'll have to do a crank profile relearn after the job. Odds favour that you won't but, no guarantees.

Personally, I wouldn't think twice about doing this job myself. No problem, whatsoever.


---------- Post added at 06:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:40 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
There is nothing in the factory manual or in my inspection that indicates this job is anything significantly different than generations of RWD cars before it. Yank the driveshaft, yank the exhaust, the starter, crossmember, the trans and there you are, same as always. At least you don't have to remove the shifter when you do this one, just the trim an knob.

The only unique consideration is the crapshoot on whether you'll have to do a crank profile relearn after the job. Odds favour that you won't but, no guarantees.

Personally, I wouldn't think twice about doing this job myself. No problem, whatsoever.
So a good mechanic should have no problem with it. Thank you. I hope I have many many miles before I have to replace it. I have 34,000mikes on my 2011
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