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Old 01-12-2014, 09:38 PM   #1
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Lca Uca questions

'11 5.0 6mt w k springs. I have steeda non adjustable lca's. Thinking about getting an aftermarket Uca and mount and lca relocation brackets.. Should I switch to adjustable lca's? Do I need them? Will it be ok after the adjustable Uca and lca brackets? It's a daily driver and prolly won't be to the track as much as id like.. Just the strip a few times a year.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:06 AM   #2
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From all the responses that I got you don't need to just below LCA if you have adjustable play hard bar and UCA... I have BMR, LCA, adj UCA & Mount, adj panhard bar and relocation bracket waiting to be installed hopefully this weekend... So if I am wrong some one correct me before I put on the stuff I have.

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:21 AM   #3
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Nobody running a road car needs the hassle of adjustable LCAs. Make you adjustments up top for pinion angle, as that's really the only adjustment worth considering on a road car.

Every car is a bit different but, you also likely don't need relos unless you're significantly lowered, as in beyond 1.5".
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:41 AM   #4
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The non adjustable lca are optimal. Adjustable lowers will only benefit you if you have frame damage and need to correct for that. Any time you lower your car the lca relocation brackets are a good idea. On a lowered vehicle there will be an increase in wheel spin due to changes in anti squat characteristics. Lowering a vehicle changes the instant center and installing the brackets will compensate for the change in the angle of the arms correcting the instant center.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:48 AM   #5
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That's what I thought.. When I get the adjustable Uca will it need to be adjusted longer to correct pinion angle?

---------- Post added at 10:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Nobody running a road car needs the hassle of adjustable LCAs. Make you adjustments up top for pinion angle, as that's really the only adjustment worth considering on a road car.

Every car is a bit different but, you also likely don't need relos unless you're significantly lowered, as in beyond 1.5".

Pretty sure I do need the brackets? The lca's are quite a bit higher in the rear than the front.. So it's not planting the rear end like it should. Like I said I have k-springs so it's lowered 1.5"
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Nobody running a road car needs the hassle of adjustable LCAs. Make you adjustments up top for pinion angle, as that's really the only adjustment worth considering on a road car.

Every car is a bit different but, you also likely don't need relos unless you're significantly lowered, as in beyond 1.5".
I agree, but I can also guarantee every car lowered 1.5" will need relo brackets. I'm on steeda ultralites, which are a 1.5" drop, and before i got brackets, my lca angle was pretty bad.

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Old 01-13-2014, 03:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 11stangGT View Post

Pretty sure I do need the brackets? The lca's are quite a bit higher in the rear than the front.. So it's not planting the rear end like it should. Like I said I have k-springs so it's lowered 1.5"
Yes you absolutely need control arm relocation brackets.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:51 PM   #8
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So if I'm doing relocation brackets do I need an adjustable UCA or non adjustable? The steeda upper mount has four mounting points.. Should I do non adjustable Uca with the bracket?
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:11 PM   #9
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The upper control arm needs to be adjustable.
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:26 PM   #10
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Well steeda makes a non adjustable for lowered cars.. Between that and a mount with 4 positions to mount the UCA and lca relocation brackets wouldn't that correct my pinion angle? And if so then why would I need an adjustable upper?
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:30 PM   #11
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No it will not correct your pinion angle. Only an adjustable upper will do that.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:22 AM   #12
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the upper mount positions set your anti squat geometry, not your pinion angle. The lower, the more anti squat.

Relos move the holes forward as you go lower so the control arm length doesn't change.

If, on your car, the back of the lower CA is higher than the front, that's the call for relos, as outlined, as that is a recipe for endless wheelspin.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
the upper mount positions set your anti squat geometry, not your pinion angle. The lower, the more anti squat.



Relos move the holes forward as you go lower so the control arm length doesn't change.



If, on your car, the back of the lower CA is higher than the front, that's the call for relos, as outlined, as that is a recipe for endless wheelspin.

Thank you for explaining.. Makes sense. I didn't know it moved the holes forward for the lca's. What about the non adjustable upper that steeda makes though? They make one for lowered and factory height. I'm assuming that is the point of the lowered version is to correct pinion?
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