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Old 01-15-2014, 04:36 PM   #1
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Whiteline transmission bushing

I installed the above part and it does work as described. Shifting while cornering at speed the gear slips right into place. There is one downside (if you want to call it that). It absolutely increases NVH. Not annoying but upon acceleration and deceleration you can definitely feel the vibration of the motor in the seat more. I kind of like it, makes it feel more like a machine, but if you're planning on using your stang to transport sleeping babies, I'd suggest you leave this mod uninstalled.

That is all!
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:06 PM   #2
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Do what the rest of us did and cut a 2" hole in the bottom piece. That will make a big difference in NVH.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:17 PM   #3
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Meh. Not worth it to me personally to get under there again and take it back out and reinstall it. I wasn't complaining just giving a disclaimer to those who might. I'll leave it as designed.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:52 PM   #4
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Sounds good man thanks for the info
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:48 PM   #5
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Have to get under there and install mine. Glad to hear it works as advertised.
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPFury View Post
Do what the rest of us did and cut a 2" hole in the bottom piece. That will make a big difference in NVH.
I bought the part but have not installed it yet.

Can you explain? cut a 2" hole where?
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:17 PM   #7
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In the middle of the centre lobe of the 3. It's pretty obvious when you look at it and it makes a big difference with no penalty in shift quality
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:49 PM   #8
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In the middle of the centre lobe of the 3. It's pretty obvious when you look at it and it makes a big difference with no penalty in shift quality

Exactly... Lol
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:29 PM   #9
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In the middle of the centre lobe of the 3. It's pretty obvious when you look at it and it makes a big difference with no penalty in shift quality

What did u use to cut hole?
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
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What did u use to cut hole?
I would like to know the same. I just ordered my whiteline bushing along with a JPC SS clutch line and some amsoil DOT 4 fluid.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #11
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Use a 2" hole cutter that are used on doors. You will need to secure the bushing so it doesn't move while cutting. Use a high speed drill .
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:29 PM   #12
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I installed mine a while ago and have absolutely no NVH...and that's even with a 2 post shifter bracket and polyurethane motor mounts. IMO, the best option for those who feel the need to modify their bushing would be to mill 1/2" off of the end of the tongue. The tongue helps hold the bushing in place...without it, the ears on the bushing will try to back out of the mount. Lastly, the NVH that some people are experiencing is likely coming from the tongue touching the rear of the transmission cross member.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:53 PM   #13
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Ordered insert. Anyone know the torque specs on the trans crossmember bolts?
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:47 PM   #14
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Ordered insert. Anyone know the torque specs on the trans crossmember bolts?
If my memory serves me correctly I believe the torque spec is 46 ft-lbs.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:45 PM   #15
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I marked mine and used blue thread locker to ensure they stay put.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSlo5oH View Post
If my memory serves me correctly I believe the torque spec is 46 ft-lbs.
Translated: "I don't have a clue right now. I may have known in the past, 46 ft lbs or 46 in lbs, but whatever, its the interwebs and nobody believes everything they see here anyway. Hell, it's not even my car so who gives a flip."

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Old 01-27-2014, 01:43 PM   #17
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For transmission crossmember torque to 55 FT LBS and transmission mount 52 FT LBS.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compstall View Post
Translated: "I don't have a clue right now. I may have known in the past, 46 ft lbs or 46 in lbs, but whatever, its the interwebs and nobody believes everything they see here anyway. Hell, it's not even my car so who gives a flip."

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Wrong buddy...I do have a clue and I did know what I was talking about. I also do give a flip and that's why I have gone out of my way on this forum, as well as several others to help people out. BTW, here's proof in case you're still a nonbeliever.

As stated by 86custom, the transmission mount needs to be torqued to 52 ft-lbs.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:47 PM   #19
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Wrong buddy...I do have a clue and I did know what I was talking about. I also do give a flip and that's why I have gone out of my way on this forum as well as several others to help people out. BTW, here's proof in case you're still a nonbeliever.



The transmission mount nuts on the bottom of the crossmember need to be torqued to 52 ft-lbs.

Thanks noslo.
I just ignored that other comment.
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:10 PM   #20
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Thanks noslo.
I just ignored that other comment.
Anytime Lvsmc. Please report back with your first impressions of the bushing insert.
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:15 PM   #21
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Will do thanks
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:01 PM   #22
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My resources was from teamjdm. Just ignore the idiots with diarrhea from the mouth.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:38 PM   #23
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I have my bushing but still need to put it in. Attempted to install the part myself but then realized just soon enough the transmission needed to be supported. I don't have a tq wrench so the bolts were just tightened as well as I could get them by hand. Will this create a problem under normal driving standards on the way to the shop?
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:26 AM   #24
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Thanks 86custom for the accurate info provided

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Old 01-28-2014, 06:51 AM   #25
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bsyo1021,

You should be fine to drive the car to the dealer and have them torqued. FYI, although the four bolts for the crossmember require 46 ft-lbs and the trans mount nuts 52 ft-lbs, they can take more torque than that. I know this because I installed a Metco d/s safety loop on my car which came with two longer bolts for the rear of the crossmember and Metco's instructions said to torque those to 90 ft-lbs.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSlo5oH View Post
bsyo1021,

You should be fine to drive the car to the dealer and have them torqued. FYI, although the four bolts for the crossmember require 46 ft-lbs and the trans mount nuts 52 ft-lbs, they can take more torque than that. I know this because I installed a Metco d/s safety loop on my car which came with two longer bolts for the rear of the crossmember and Metco's instructions said to torque those to 90 ft-lbs.
Okay cool thanks NoSlo5oH. I figured I should be okay cause I have it about where it started but not quite just wanted to make sure there wasn't any major concerns before taking it out.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:50 PM   #27
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Just an update, installed my insert yesterday and I'm very happy with the results. Works as advertised! Definitely improves the precision of changing gears and I don't have any trouble getting into gear while turning like I had. Also have an MGW in my car and the insert compliments it nicely. No noticeable NVH either.

Wish I could say the same about the braided clutch line. Still think I have some air somewhere. Annoying!
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Old 02-02-2014, 06:22 PM   #28
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Torque values here are not mission critical to success or failure. If you snugged them up tight, you'll be fine. In fact, you probably exceeded to torque value, unless you're a newborn.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsyo1021 View Post
I have my bushing but still need to put it in. Attempted to install the part myself but then realized just soon enough the transmission needed to be supported. I don't have a tq wrench so the bolts were just tightened as well as I could get them by hand. Will this create a problem under normal driving standards on the way to the shop?
No if you have turned a few bolts after awhile you get a sense of it, but i would recommend going to sears and getting a decent TR and you can find lots of uses for it including the nuts on your wheels.

I have not installed mine yet but the video on AM makes it look pretty simple. I have a lift but if you do not, you can put the car on jack stands and use a floor jack to support the transmission.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:21 PM   #30
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Finally got a day off and put in whiteline insert. This is my first mod besides dead pedal and it makes a drastic improvement. I basically regretted getting a manual car cause the shifting from 1-2 was so bad. Had dealer check twice (2 different dealers) and the second bleed line , so they said and it marginally improved 1-2, but this insert makes shifting virtually perfect. I think I will do a MGW and clutch line so to further refine it but this is good rt now. I finally have a car that I can shift from 1-2 without grinding. I am now enjoying shifting rather than cringing at each shift from1-2. It did add a fairly considerable amount of NVH, but with the improved shifting I can live with it.
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:57 PM   #31
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Finally got my whiteline insert installed as well. I couldn't tell difference specifically from it because at the same time I put in a barton short shifter as well as a single post bracket. The combination in parts make a HUGE difference. I absolutely love the new shifter set up. I can't imagine how I drove without it! Alittle bit more NVH heard but nothing that bothers me. My exhaust can overcompensate for it at any time I want haha.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:10 PM   #32
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For those people who drilled a 2 inch hole in the center tab of the Whiteline Transmission Mount, did cutting the 2 inch hole in it get rid of the vibrations that the Whiteline Trans Mount made before you cut the 2 inch hole in it?


Did it get rid of the vibrations completely? Or does it still have a significant amount of vibration (even though it is somewhat better) after cutting the 2 inch hole in it?
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:38 PM   #33
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I completely removed the center tab...cut it off at the base. There is still an increase in NVH, though its minor and not in an annoying sort of way. Actually, it feels more like a muscle car now and I think the sound is an improvement.

Shifting is so much more improved that its worth it regardless. I'm sorta curious what it would have been like with the center tab intact. Thought looking at the design, the side tabs are the most significant for our purposes.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:27 AM   #34
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I did the same thing as BadCon, cut off the center tab but left about 1/4 of an inch on it cut the rest off. No real increase in noise. I have not done the new bracket that has also come out for the shifter but will this winter.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:01 PM   #35
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I would never cut it.

I put mine in just as it came out of the package and I didn't notice any more noise than I already had from the Barton shifter and 2 post bracket.

I think it's a great mod and highly recommend it. .
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