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Old 02-11-2014, 10:03 PM   #1
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breaking in 2014 gt

Just took delivery of a 2014 mustang gt, i was told by the salesman that the only break in needed on the car was the braking system, he said give it 200 miles of easy braking before you accelerate the action. Anyone agree with this strategy?
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:12 AM   #2
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I was told that the engine was broken in at the factory, but I still took it easy for a while to get the rest of the drivetrain settled in
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:32 AM   #3
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I've never heard of people having to break-in their new brake setups after a swap. It doesn't make sense to me. Granted, I took delivery of my car with 425 miles on it, but how do you measure "200 miles of easy braking"?
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:01 AM   #4
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No break in necessary unless one wanted to argue with the clutch being properly broken in.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:01 AM   #5
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In the owners manual it says not to beat on it and to vary the rpm for the 1st 1000? miles. I'm old school and follow this. You will also get the opinions of folks that say "drive it like you stole it" pick the one that you think makes more sense. I also suggest changing the oil at the 600-1000 mile range (also old school opinion) enjoy the ride.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:10 AM   #6
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I heard that you should drive it hard to allow all of the components to "set." And the owners manual, afaik, tells us to change the original oil at the regular interval. It all depends on how you talk to but I have a feeling that a break in period is less important than it used to be. I, like convert, took delivery of my car with ~300 miles on it because it was driven from its original dealership in New Jersey. I don't know in what fashion it was driven to Maryland, but I will admit that I didn't hesitate to put it through it's paces when I test drove it right before I bought it.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:08 AM   #7
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From the manual...
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:07 AM   #8
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From what I've seen and read, a lot of the big engine builders break their engines in at varying rpms, usually in the mid to high range. If you baby it, the rings can glaze over and never seal properly. And like SixBanger, when I took deliver at 425 miles on the clock, I promptly gave it the beans. I'm now at 3000 and everything works perfectly fine. Just waiting for warmer weather and dry roads to take off traction control and really see what she can do.

Now as far as other systems of the car, if you take delivery with absolutely 0 miles on it, you might want to warm up the brakes since they're probably going to bite pretty hard, let the suspension settle, don't bang the gears but don't be afraid to stand on the throttle.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:06 PM   #9
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Don't change the oil until the car asks u too. There is an additive in it that helps break in. Until it is broken in, do not add any full synthetic oil...it lubes too much and won't allow the rings to seat.
U are correct about the brakes (and clutch) if you get on either hard when new, they will glaze and hinder braking/chatter.
Many ideas as how to brake the engine in...I followed the manual since I trust ford on their own design. Not sure if they are broken in from the factory, but I would assume not...too expensive (time=$).
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:08 PM   #10
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I got my 14gt with 17 miles on it. I immediately tuned it and drove it like I stole it. I am now at 4600 miles and the car feels fantastic after I replaced the suspension lol. My advice is to not tune it, wait until the car asks you to replace oil, and don't drop the clutch or do burn outs until the suspension settles in. Cheers!
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:18 PM   #11
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smokey burnouts is the best way.
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:59 AM   #12
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Don't change the oil until the car asks u too. There is an additive in it that helps break in. Until it is broken in, do not add any full synthetic oil...it lubes too much and won't allow the rings to seat.
U are correct about the brakes (and clutch) if you get on either hard when new, they will glaze and hinder braking/chatter.
Many ideas as how to brake the engine in...I followed the manual since I trust ford on their own design. Not sure if they are broken in from the factory, but I would assume not...too expensive (time=$).
GL,
Troy
They don't add a break additive to the oil anymore been that way for a while.
I would agree on using a synthetic blend though on your first or second oil change though before going to full (if you even decide to go to full). The engine is pretty much broken in from the factory but it does "set in" within the first couple hundred of miles according to the owners manuals.
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:13 AM   #13
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I changed to Amsoil 10w-30 at the 1000 mile mark. No issues at all.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:37 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the advice, i will give it a few more miles and after that let the fun begin. Looking forward to some 12.90's at the drag strip.
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:50 PM   #15
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4215 miles and still breaking her in.....
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:26 PM   #16
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4215 miles and still breaking her in.....
2013 with 4024.4 miles and still babying it.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:39 PM   #17
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Just changed the original oil today at 5,600 miles. My dad convinced me not to wait for the 10,000 mile mark. The oil was almost pitch black...so I'm kinda glad that I changed it.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by NewMtang View Post
2013 with 4024.4 miles and still babying it.
OH OH. I hope you did get up into the upper rpms sometime after the 100 mile mark. I mean at least drove it at 5000 rpm for a small amount of time(30-60 seconds give or take and use your instinct) and then back down etc at other rpms and then back up. A wide variety of different rpms throughout the range. And also swing through the gears up to the redline also at least once a week or every 100 miles.

If your not burning any or much oil and not ticking then your likely good to go.

Or maybe you want to baby it all the way to the end?
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:27 PM   #19
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OH OH. I hope you did get up into the upper rpms sometime after the 100 mile mark. I mean at least drove it at 5000 rpm for a small amount of time(30-60 seconds give or take and use your instinct) and then back down etc at other rpms and then back up. A wide variety of different rpms throughout the range. And also swing through the gears up to the redline also at least once a week or every 100 miles.

If your not burning any or much oil and not ticking then your likely good to go.

Or maybe you want to baby it all the way to the end?
Just not a lot of driving in my town. Besides this winter is terrible. My car has been parked since 11-08. It started out with lots of rain and several hail storms. Now with this winter, almost 50 inches of snow, from Dec-Feb.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:12 AM   #20
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My mom bought a brand new 85 gt and ran the crap out of it when brand new. Well, it just seemed the car never wanted to run slow in town. In lower gear was too much and would lug to much in a higher gear. Don't know if it had anything to do with the breaking in or not but that car did not want to do 25-35. May have been the gearing. I would always break in a new car if it were me, I am old school too.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:55 AM   #21
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I would always break the car in just to avoid future problems
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:58 AM   #22
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Break-In Thread #5,367

You'll get a million different responses from people. I've had two 5.0's, drove them both off the lot like I stole them.
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:58 PM   #23
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I also suggest changing the oil at the 600-1000 mile range (also old school opinion) enjoy the ride.

WHOOOO

That is really BAD advice
Ford has an exclusive oil additive that MUST Remain in the engine for the first 5000 miles

If changed and Ford finds out about it'
They will VOID your warranty.

I know from hands on experience
DONT DO IT $$
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:27 PM   #24
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WHOOOO

That is really BAD advice
Ford has an exclusive oil additive that MUST Remain in the engine for the first 5000 miles

If changed and Ford finds out about it'
They will VOID your warranty.

I know from hands on experience
DONT DO IT $$
Please tell me more about your hands on experience. I do not remember seeing any warnings in the owners manual or requiring a minimum mileage before the 1st oil change. Also, I have had my dealer do all my oil changes thus far. And my first one I thought was at the approximate 1000 mile or 3000 mile mark. I have to check my paperwork at home.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by PMDMustang13 View Post
Please tell me more about your hands on experience. I do not remember seeing any warnings in the owners manual or requiring a minimum mileage before the 1st oil change. Also, I have had my dealer do all my oil changes thus far. And my first one I thought was at the approximate 1000 mile or 3000 mile mark. I have to check my paperwork at home.

Your Lucky

I had the notorious left side engine tick
and ask the dealer to change the oil to remove it.

They spent 20 hours labor upon recommendation from Ford direct
to check the cam phasers and related cam timing components to alleviate the tick

When I ask them why didn't you just change the oil and start from there
They stated, I will loose my warranty if the oil is removed before 5000 miles because of the additive to seat the piston rings that Ford uses on all 5.0 engines.

They just would not BUDGE :


And guess what ?



When the engine gets hot and the AC is on
IT STILL TICKS

Screw it !
The Car Hauls ***
I can deal with the 1100 to 1300 rpm tick annoyance
before the tires peel out and the car goes into WoW zone

Its a 2013 base GT with TrackPak
and it runs a 12.5 stock under warranty

GT 5oo muffs make it sound as good as it runs too ~~~~~~ ~~~~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~
That works for me
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:41 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by TrackPak View Post
WHOOOO

That is really BAD advice
Ford has an exclusive oil additive that MUST Remain in the engine for the first 5000 miles

If changed and Ford finds out about it'
They will VOID your warranty.

I know from hands on experience
DONT DO IT $$
I've heard that as internet talk but never seen any proof. idk but from reading other threads about folks with the tick it seemed not to come with any break in procedure or early oil change. I will say I doubt Ford adds a mystery ingredient but idk. I will say I wouldn't go to full synthetic for a while. I would think that if it was important Ford would stress this in the owners manual. opinion only.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:05 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Strange Mud View Post
I've heard that as internet talk but never seen any proof. idk but from reading other threads about folks with the tick it seemed not to come with any break in procedure or early oil change. I will say I doubt Ford adds a mystery ingredient but idk. I will say I wouldn't go to full synthetic for a while. I would think that if it was important Ford would stress this in the owners manual. opinion only.

+1

The jack holes at the dealership service centers don't know what they are doing half the time. These are the same idiots that only put 5 quarts of oil during coyote oil changes.

I swapped out to full synthetic at 500 miles (and 3k - 7k intervals since depending on usage). Pushed the car hard just about everyday since I picked it up. 30k miles now.

And a dealership hasn't touched it since 5k.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:35 AM   #28
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I forgot to add I also pull the fuel pump relay after changing oil in any modern car to allow it to crank for a bit b4 it starts in the theory of getting oil in the system. I doubt it does much except give me piece of mind but it's cheap & easy like a good date.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:36 PM   #29
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Don't think about it. Just rip it. Kidding. You're going to get a million different ideas, I wouldn't worry about it. These motors are tested (hard) at the factory before even being placed into our vehicles.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:42 PM   #30
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just broke 200 miles,the service advance trac light has been on 6 times during that period. I tested to see if the traction control and stability control were actually off,as the lights indicated. Yes they were off, my wife came home after i had just parked the car in the garage and said something was burning in the garage, yes the smell of burned rubber. I told her i was testing the car. Will call the dealership and bring it in.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:00 PM   #31
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My 14 manual says not to load the engine for the first 1000 miles. I followed the manual. I wouldn't sweat over it too much unless your planning on racing it right from the get go.
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:36 PM   #32
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I have a 2013 boss 302 and it comes from the factory with full synthetic oil .

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Old 02-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #33
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My manuals says NOT to change the oil before 2600 miles or something. I'll take a picture after work as proof. But it does state it.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:06 PM   #34
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that would clear up a lot if it said that (NOT calling you out just searching for knowledge) in the 2012 it does not mention anything like that. I wonder what Ford would then say for those whose cars are toys and are due for oil changes by time rather than mileage?
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:33 PM   #35
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I searched the downloaded pdf my 2013 owners manual (without the track package insert) and there was no mention of a break-in oil additive or a warning of a minimum mileage before the first oil change.

I checked my records and my first oil change was 1394 mile and the 2nd oil change was at 5214 miles and I put in what the oil cap requires which I think is 5W/50 and I always use motorcraft full synthetic. My oil changes were performed by the dealer that I purchased the car from.

I luckily do not have an engine tick as of yet. Knock on Wood. And I drive my car like a bat out of hell. I can't help it.
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