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Old 02-12-2014, 09:12 AM   #1
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Suspension on a 5.0....where to start?

Ok I've done a some research trying to find the suspension components I need. I want to kind of gain the control I want when I want to really blow through 2nd n 3rd gear. I'm not a really big track head. I'm not one to push it to the max often. I'm focused more on cosmetics and light performance mods. I don't want a 600hp monster. But I do want my baby to get up n go more than average. As I looked at suspension parts it seems to me springs and the adjustable panhard rod should cover what I'm looking for. Some threads say just change it all out: shocks, struts, camber ,plates, springs, panhard rod, control arms, the list goes on. I want to know what is necessary to change to get a better handle. All I have performance wise is a hybrid tune (street/race) from BAMA. The only other major performance mods I plan on are full exhaust and other bolt ons such as gears. Will lowering springs and adjustable panhard rod give me what I'm looking for while not compromising other parts of the car cuz I didn't replace them?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:47 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangreazon50 View Post
Ok I've done a some research trying to find the suspension components I need. I want to kind of gain the control I want when I want to really blow through 2nd n 3rd gear. I'm not a really big track head. I'm not one to push it to the max often. I'm focused more on cosmetics and light performance mods. I don't want a 600hp monster. But I do want my baby to get up n go more than average. As I looked at suspension parts it seems to me springs and the adjustable panhard rod should cover what I'm looking for. Some threads say just change it all out: shocks, struts, camber ,plates, springs, panhard rod, control arms, the list goes on. I want to know what is necessary to change to get a better handle. All I have performance wise is a hybrid tune (street/race) from BAMA. The only other major performance mods I plan on are full exhaust and other bolt ons such as gears. Will lowering springs and adjustable panhard rod give me what I'm looking for while not compromising other parts of the car cuz I didn't replace them?
Hey,

It sounds like you have a pretty good plan ironed out for your 5.0L GT! I went through the same thought process when I first picked up my 2011 GT. However, I knew that I had full intentions of making 600+ RWHP and that the track would be my second home in the Spring/Summer! That being said, Suspension was my biggest focus. Adding all sorts of power is useless if you can't put the power to the ground! If you decide to get more involved with racing the car, Upper and Lower Control arms are great.

If you're just looking for just better handling, Lowering Springs and a Panhard Bar are perfect. You'll get a lower center of gravity, you'll increase handling, eliminate nose dive when braking and get rid of any wheel hop. The panhard bar would insure that your rear end stays centered after the springs are installed. If you aren't interested in going all that low you won't need caster camber plates. Springs that lower your Mustang 1.5" in the front or less don't require camber plates. You can get away with just a standard alignment. However, if you want to go lower than that you should pick up a set of CC Plates.

Shocks and Struts are never a bad idea. However, if your Mustang has low miles you won't need them right away. Over time your stock shocks/struts will become a weak point because of the aggressiveness of the lowering springs. I installed a set of Eibach Sportlines on my 5.0 and didn't do shocks/struts. I have 9k on the car now and the car still rides great!

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions or need some assistance in the near future. Feel free to hit me up directly with any questions! You can also give my CS team a call if you have any questions. They can be reached at the contact information below in my signature!

-Dan
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:51 AM   #3
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Well I'm at 31k right now. What kind of milage am I looking at to have to replace the shocks n struts. And thx for ur fast reply Dan! When/if I decide to go all out on performance I'll consider the rest for suspension
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:55 AM   #4
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Well I'm at 31k right now. What kind of milage am I looking at to have to replace the shocks n struts. And thx for ur fast reply Dan! When/if I decide to go all out on performance I'll consider the rest for suspension
31k isn't bad! That is still low mileage for sure. It's hard to put a mileage number on the stock suspension because it really depends on the abuse the car takes. Most stock suspensions last about 70-80K before it starts to get bouncy or rough! If you add lowering springs to your stock suspension those numbers won't be as high. The more aggressive spring rate will definitely effect your stock struts/shocks over time. I don't think you'll have to worry about it for at least 20-30K, though.

I hope this answers your question. Please let me know if you need further assistance. It's said that you're never fully satisfied with your car so I'm sure down the road you'll be looking into some further suspension modifications. It sounds like you have some good powers mod lined up already, so I'm sure we'll be chatting again shortly! As always, feel free to hit me up if you need some advice or just want to chat Mustangs.

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Old 02-12-2014, 03:45 PM   #5
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MustangReazon,

Depending on your budget ... it may be a good idea to do some install items at the same time.

For example, Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time saves on labor cost/time and alignments.

Springs: Okay to do them by themselves ... but strongly recommend the panhard bar, HD Mounts (not 100% needed but if budget allows ... good to get) ... optional Shocks and Struts for better ride quality (once again, if budget allows).

This set-up will give you a nice drop, with a great handling car, without sacrificing ride quality.

Let me know if I can help assist you with anything ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com for faster response.

Best Regards,

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Old 02-12-2014, 04:57 PM   #6
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If you have serious problems with traction or problems with wheel hop then I recommend doing the following prior to more expensive suspension work of lowering the car.

I recommend starting with new lower control arms and relocation brackets as that makes a world of difference in traction and it is not too expensive. I bought the following items from BMR and I am very happy with them. You don't need the expensive ones for 350 bucks or so.

Everything below is based on 11-14 GT. If you have another year then you need different part numbers.

LCA's with poly bushings and greasible
2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Lower Control Arms | TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, DOM, Non-adjustable, Polyurethane Bushings | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

LCA Relocation brackets use 1st hole down if not lowered.
2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Control Arm Relocation Brackets | CAB005 - Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

I later on installed an adjustable upper control arm and mount. You would need something like this to adjust the pinion angle if you lower the car. It also helps with traction and wheel hop.

Adjustable UCA
2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Upper Control Arms | UTCA032 - Upper Control Arm, DOM, On-car Adjustable, Poly Bushing | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

UCA Mount
2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Upper Control Arms | UCM002 - Upper Control Arm Mount | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

I don't have wheel hop anymore unless it is really cold and my traction is way better than stock and that would give you an advantage over the stock stangs of this era.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:50 PM   #7
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I replied to this post with photos and links but it disappeared. So here is a short version.

If you want traction and reduce or eliminate wheel hop then get lower control arms with poly bushings and relocation brackets. I purchased and installed the BMR products and I am highly satisfied. Doing this would be a lot cheaper and easier than lowering your mustang.

I also went ahead and purchased BMR adjustable upper control arm and BMR mount. This also can reduce or eliminate wheel hop. And if you lower your car you will need one anyway.

If you plan on road racing or autocross then you will want to go with other options as well such as lowering springs, struts, shocks, sway bars, etc.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:17 PM   #8
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Another option is to get the 'standard' drag racing shocks/struts and springs for your Stang. They are designed to transfer the weight of your car to the back tires giving you grip and launch when you need it. Good luck with your build.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:01 PM   #9
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Where to start? More like where to stop..
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:28 AM   #10
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What's the deal with relocation brackets? I just installed some BMR Lower control arms.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:51 AM   #11
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they help correct the geometry when you have the car lowered.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:06 AM   #12
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If your car is lowered then the rear of the control arm is sitting to high.. Causing the rear end not to plant as hard. I haven't got any yet and where it attaches to the axle is actually above the frame mount end.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:46 AM   #13
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I have BMR non adjustable lower control arms for the rear. So if I lower I need relocation brackets and the adj pan hard rod?
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I have BMR non adjustable lower control arms for the rear. So if I lower I need relocation brackets and the adj pan hard rod?
You need adj panhard bar to center the rear axle.

You may want Luca relocation brackets for better traction and launches and or exiting corners, and help eliminate wheel hop.

You may need adj uca to adjust your pinion angle to avoid vibrations, avoid drive shaft damage, and help eliminate wheel hop.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:10 AM   #15
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So I didn't instal my lowering springs yet but after doing some reading sounds like a panhard bar is deff something to invest in. Is the instal hard for those of you that have one?
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:19 AM   #16
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Yes.. You need that for sure. If you have any experience it's pretty easy.. If not then may take ya awhile..
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:29 AM   #17
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Experience with a mustang no..lifted my 2011 jeep tho and didn't seem to have a problem
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:35 AM   #18
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So I didn't instal my lowering springs yet but after doing some reading sounds like a panhard bar is deff something to invest in. Is the instal hard for those of you that have one?
You can likely do the installation of the panhard bar yourself if you have 1/2" drive sockets and wrenches and a torque wrench. Whichever panhard bar you purchase should have installation instructions. And AM may even have a video on how to install the product.

You can search the forum for advice on how to adjust the panhard bar to center the body on the chassis/frame.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:37 AM   #19
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Yep AM seemed to give pretty good instruction on how all that is done. Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:10 PM   #20
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Panhard bar or control arms? Which should I do first? My car was lowered by the first owner, seems to have a lot of wheel hop.

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Old 02-21-2014, 01:42 PM   #21
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Panhard bar or control arms? Which should I do first? My car was lowered by the first owner, seems to have a lot of wheel hop.

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If your car was already lowered then it may already have an adjustable panhard bar. I would check to see if your chassis is centered under the body. You will want to use the search function to find out how to properly do that. I don't know for sure yet because I am not lowered yet.

Since you are already lowered do you know if there is an adjustable UCA already installed? Do you notice any vibration in the drivetrain? If so then your pinion angle may want to be adjusted properly to get it in phase. There is a long discussion on that in a few threads on this website. Upper UCA can sometimes solve wheel hop.

But the easiest way to reduce wheel hop in my opinion is to get aftermarket LCA's with with poly bushings. And if you do that you might as well get the relocation brackets especially since you are lowered.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:45 PM   #22
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I have no clue what is upgraded and what is stock under there. It's also too low for me to be able to get a good look at under. I'm thinking about taking it to a shop and asking them but I live in a place where there aren't many Mustang experts.

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Old 02-21-2014, 02:10 PM   #23
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I have no clue what is upgraded and what is stock under there. It's also too low for me to be able to get a good look at under. I'm thinking about taking it to a shop and asking them but I live in a place where there aren't many Mustang experts.

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You can jack it up in the back and put it on jackstands and take a look and take some photos and post them on a forum and somebody would help you. Or back up on some ramps.

Another option is to take it to a shop and have them put it on a lift for you to look at. Or get an oil change and ask if you can look underneath your car and take some photos.
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Old 02-21-2014, 02:12 PM   #24
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Yeah, that sounds like a good idea. I will try to post some pics on here and see if any of yall can help me identify some stuff. This is my first mustang

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