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Old 03-13-2014, 08:15 AM   #1
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Build List thoughts and advice

OK Here are the stages I have done, planned and most importantly have a question on. Let me know what you think of it so far and thoughts on last stage listed (I'm sure there will be a stage after that! LOL) Questions in RED

Stage 1Done)
Barton Short Shifter with Bracket
Pypes off Road H pipe
Black Pype Bomb muffler deletes
Air Raid CAI
BAMA SCT SF3 Tuner 93 Hybrid
CDC Performance Grille
MMD Matched window louvers
Tinted Windows and all lights/markers

Stage 2Pretty much set on)
AMR 20" Black wheels with Sumitomo Tires
SR Adjustable Panhard bar
SR Rear Lower Control arms (Should I get the adjustable?)
Steeda Adjustable Read Upper Control Arm
Eibach Pro-System Plus Suspension pack
Eibach Pro Alignment Camber Bolts (plates really much better?)
SR Oil Separator (Does this really help prolong engine life)
Matte black deck lid and matte clear coat the taillights

Stage 3: (still contemplating, lots questions)
3:73 rear end
Boss 302 Intake
BBK 90mm Throttle Body
Accel Super Coil on Plug Kit
(I am looking at the intake, coils and TB as an all or none situation. $1500 is allot for this so really want to make sure there are gains that are worth it. Would there be?)
Rousch Front Chin Splitter
RTR rear plate surround w/ ducts
BBK Tuned Length Short headers (with current set up will these make much of a dofference in power or sound)
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:18 AM   #2
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go long tubes or nothing on headers, i havent looked into headers too much yet for this these mustangs but thats normally the case. camber plates > bolts. do it right once
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:22 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by A1ex View Post
go long tubes or nothing on headers, i havent looked into headers too much yet for this these mustangs but thats normally the case. camber plates > bolts. do it right once
Thats what I thought on plates.

As for headers I would need to swap out my off road H pipe for a shorty h pipe to do longtube right? (sorry if nouvice question)
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:40 AM   #4
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Camber bolts are called crash bolts for a reason. The chances of one breaking are slim but if one does break you're in a lot of trouble. Depending on how low you go you can use the GT500 upper strut mounts and install them in reverse to get some of your camber back. This would require 05-10 struts. Do NOT use adjustable lower control arms. You don't need them and if installed wrong will really screw things up.

You should install separators or breathers to keep oil from mixing with your gas in your intake. That lowers your octane.

The throttle body and coil packs as well as the BBK shorty headers are a waste of money. Money that can be spent on better things.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:46 AM   #5
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Your suspension needs some work, much better options out there, however you showed us a build list without letting us know your intentions with the car.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:47 AM   #6
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This is why I love the forum... appreciate all the input guys. Keep it coming. seems like I have posted this for an hour and saved $1,500 lol.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post
Your suspension needs some work, much better options out there, however you showed us a build list without letting us know your intentions with the car.
Just having fun as a daily driver. Suspension definitely next. Wheel hop now so take off is annoying. Also want to be able to handle allot better without body roll.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Camber bolts are called crash bolts for a reason. The chances of one breaking are slim but if one does break you're in a lot of trouble. Depending on how low you go you can use the GT500 upper strut mounts and install them in reverse to get some of your camber back. This would require 05-10 struts. Do NOT use adjustable lower control arms. You don't need them and if installed wrong will really screw things up.

You should install separators or breathers to keep oil from mixing with your gas in your intake. That lowers your octane.

The throttle body and coil packs as well as the BBK shorty headers are a waste of money. Money that can be spent on better things.

Couldn't have said it better myself +1
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Camber bolts are called crash bolts for a reason. The chances of one breaking are slim but if one does break you're in a lot of trouble. Depending on how low you go you can use the GT500 upper strut mounts and install them in reverse to get some of your camber back. This would require 05-10 struts. Do NOT use adjustable lower control arms. You don't need them and if installed wrong will really screw things up.

You should install separators or breathers to keep oil from mixing with your gas in your intake. That lowers your octane.

The throttle body and coil packs as well as the BBK shorty headers are a waste of money. Money that can be spent on better things.
Do you think the upper control arm is better as adjustable or should I get the non-adjustable? Based on the rest of the suspension parts I mean. it is a DD btw
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:47 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by NaplesStang View Post
OK Here are the stages I have done, planned and most importantly have a question on. Let me know what you think of it so far and thoughts on last stage listed (I'm sure there will be a stage after that! LOL) Questions in RED

Stage 1Done)
Barton Short Shifter with Bracket
Pypes off Road H pipe
Black Pype Bomb muffler deletes
Air Raid CAI
BAMA SCT SF3 Tuner 93 Hybrid
CDC Performance Grille
MMD Matched window louvers
Tinted Windows and all lights/markers

Stage 2Pretty much set on)
AMR 20" Black wheels with Sumitomo Tires
SR Adjustable Panhard bar
SR Rear Lower Control arms (Should I get the adjustable?)
Steeda Adjustable Read Upper Control Arm
Eibach Pro-System Plus Suspension pack
Eibach Pro Alignment Camber Bolts (plates really much better?)
SR Oil Separator (Does this really help prolong engine life)
Matte black deck lid and matte clear coat the taillights

Stage 3: (still contemplating, lots questions)
3:73 rear end
Boss 302 Intake
BBK 90mm Throttle Body
Accel Super Coil on Plug Kit
(I am looking at the intake, coils and TB as an all or none situation. $1500 is allot for this so really want to make sure there are gains that are worth it. Would there be?)
Rousch Front Chin Splitter
RTR rear plate surround w/ ducts
BBK Tuned Length Short headers (with current set up will these make much of a dofference in power or sound)
This is a solid overall build list. There's a few things that I would tweak, but overall I think this looks good. Nice job!

First, I want to stress that there's nothing wrong with camber bolts for a street car riding on a mild lowering springs like the Eibachs. We've literally thousands of customers using a similar setup with zero issues. It's obvious that Caster/Camber plates are superior in every way. There's no doubt or denying that. However, for a street car with a 1.5" drop, most people would rather not drop the cash on CC plates because a set of camber bolts will do the job perfectly.

That decision is up to you, I'm just letting you know you could save more than a few dollars using the camber bolts. As they're a very realistic and reliable option for your application.

I feel it's wise to run adjustable upper and lower control arms too. Make sure you have the car aligned at an experienced shop that can also dial in the pinion angle of your Mustangs rear. Using adjustable upper and lowers will give you the most optimum rear axle positioning.

Any oil separator is a wise choice. It's best to catch as much oil headed to your intake as possible. Plus it's easy to empty the catch can every few thousand miles. Why not benefit from it!

The Boss intake manifold and BBK TB is a nice option if you enjoy driving your Mustang aggressively and want to build more power at higher RPM. Lots of guys love this setup and others prefer to stick with the lower RPM's and lower ranged torque of the stock intake manifold. This is something you need to decide which you prefer for your Mustang and driving habits. What might suit one person doesn't always suit others.

Lastly, I'd stick with your stock exhaust manifolds if you don't want to take the jump to Long Tube headers. The stock exhaust manifolds flow very well for what they are. Gains with shorties are too minimum and it's best to save your cash there.

Hope this info helps your decision buddy!

Shane
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:50 AM   #11
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+1 on the adjustable UCA as it will let you adjust pinion angle up to -2 degrees if needed thus avoiding other problems. If you drop your stance you will need this. Good luck with the build!
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:30 AM   #12
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Do you think the upper control arm is better as adjustable or should I get the non-adjustable? Based on the rest of the suspension parts I mean. it is a DD btw
Upper control arm should be adjustable.

I would look at BMR for a lot of the parts. I would also ask jayman33 for pricing on said items.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:47 AM   #13
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I am revising my AM build list a ton today based on everyones input. Headers gone, coils gone, TB gone, Lower control arms switched out and camber bolts switched to plates. Keep it coming guys. Really appreciate it. I do want to get some feedback on the appearance mod of the decklid also. I want the faux cap gone but only real option is to cut 6" hole in trunk for RTR deck lid and I do NOT want to do that.
Any other suggestions. Anyone like the idea or have seen the decklid flat black and matte out the tail lights? I just hate the dirty look always on decklid and chrome surround ring on cap
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:56 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by NaplesStang View Post
I am revising my AM build list a ton today based on everyones input. Headers gone, coils gone, TB gone, Lower control arms switched out and camber bolts switched to plates. Keep it coming guys. Really appreciate it. I do want to get some feedback on the appearance mod of the decklid also. I want the faux cap gone but only real option is to cut 6" hole in trunk for RTR deck lid and I do NOT want to do that.
Any other suggestions. Anyone like the idea or have seen the decklid flat black and matte out the tail lights? I just hate the dirty look always on decklid and chrome surround ring on cap

Looks clean without the faux cap. Have seen the RTR flat back on FB and it gives it a clean look. The other option is to get a cap with the pony logo if you don't want to cut a hole in it. I thinks most mustang v6 came with that standard.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:21 PM   #15
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We've built thousands for suspension systems for guys that have your type of goals for the car. I personally have tested just about every suspension part out there either on the track where I run time trials or on the street for fun. There are many parts out there that are priced very well that will out shine more expensive parts.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post
We've built thousands for suspension systems for guys that have your type of goals for the car. I personally have tested just about every suspension part out there either on the track where I run time trials or on the street for fun. There are many parts out there that are priced very well that will out shine more expensive parts.
Any and all info on those parts would be appreciated. Where are you located? Have a link?
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:42 AM   #17
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OK, after all the input and some more research I have updated my stage 2 build list. Additional thoughts? Thanks everyone!
Stage 2:
AMR 20" Black wheels with Sumitomo Tires
BMR Adjustable Panhard bar
Scott Drake Adjustable street Rear Lower Control arms
Steeda Adjustable Read Upper Control Arm
Eibach Pro-System Plus Suspension pack
J&M Adjustable Caster Camber Plates
SR Oil Separator
Matte black deck lid and matte clear coat the taillights
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:17 PM   #18
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Never heard of Scott Drake in anything. Are you sure you want to risk suspension parts on an unknown? Also you do not want an adjustable lower control arm.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:25 PM   #19
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Never heard of Scott Drake in anything. Are you sure you want to risk suspension parts on an unknown? Also you do not want an adjustable lower control arm.
Scott Drake is newer but read a few good reviews and what they make parts out of is strong. Still truly debating adjustable at all. Gu does the work on car says he prefers and said he will be setting it all up so good but part of me is still contempating the BMR with poly bearings non-adjustable. Have determined (and this could always change) from what I've read that i want to go with poly over spherical bearings. The Drake LCA's have a race and a street version.

So short answer. no, but I have changed it 4 times in two days so I am sure it will change again lol
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:31 PM   #20
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Any other suggestions. Anyone like the idea or have seen the decklid flat black and matte out the tail lights? I just hate the dirty look always on decklid and chrome surround ring on cap
RTR decklid panel: RTR 2010-2014 Mustang Rear Deck Lid Trim Panel

What it looks like matte black:
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01019m.JPG
Views:	2075
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ID:	150627

I kind of like this super clean look.

Matte black Tail light trim: MMD 2013 Modern Muscle Design Matte Black Mustang Taillight Trim Bezels 71324-99 (13-14 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:37 PM   #21
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RTR decklid panel: RTR 2010-2014 Mustang Rear Deck Lid Trim Panel

What it looks like matte black:
Attachment 150627

I kind of like this super clean look.

Matte black Tail light trim: MMD 2013 Modern Muscle Design Matte Black Mustang Taillight Trim Bezels 71324-99 (13-14 All) - Free Shipping
Ya! Exactly. Like this look allot. Might just have to do that. I have also looked into getting a matte clear coat over the taillights to draw them in as a complete matte section.
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Old 03-14-2014, 06:47 PM   #22
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Love the solid matte black on the rear. Post picks when ur done. On the lca u don't need adjustable as it's a waste of money. Get them w/ spheres to prevent bind and thus wheel hop. Uca should have sphere too btw.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:11 AM   #23
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Love the solid matte black on the rear. Post picks when ur done. On the lca u don't need adjustable as it's a waste of money. Get them w/ spheres to prevent bind and thus wheel hop. Uca should have sphere too btw.
Even more good advice. Thank you. Was reading allot this weekend and was going to switch up so I really appreciate the help. But I do have a couple questions. I have heard both ways on spherical. I have a daily driver and have heard they may not be the best for that both in longevity and noice.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:25 AM   #24
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I thought spherical bearings added a lot of NVH and aren't the best for DD stangs?
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:32 AM   #25
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All of the control arms do not say which they are but that can be easy to figure out. Anyone have Spherical on a DD that can provide input? I do drive this car for everything, everywhere. It definitely appears that the pherical will be better regardling traction and wheel hop but What about noise and the milage that goes with daily driving? FYI I put about 18,000 a year on her.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:45 AM   #26
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OK, here are two options for each. Does anyone have these in there set up and can provide feedback regarding their ability to create the best traction but are also good for a daily driver:

UCA:
Steeda Adjustable Street Upper Control Arm 555-4112 (11-14 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:45 PM   #27
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I have the hotchkis 1316 from AM and they are very good but expensive. The sphere/bushing combo is not considered in the 'extreme' category; look for something similar. I just bought the spohn uca m5-605-11. Another great design with little NVH. They also sell panhard bars with the same design. That is what I went with.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:58 PM   #28
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Just my thoughts..

I know im not the master of Mustangs but, I havent read anyone post about the aftermarket coils..
From what I have read keep your stock coils. After I saw a post on the accel coils I looked up even the MSD version (I liked MSD better as far as a brand) and most replies were to stay stock.
The aftermarkets seem to have issues and dont last as long. Some people even posted they didnt see them help times, but actually they ran worse.

Anyone else want to thumbs up or down my reply? Just my reading I have not tried any on my mustang.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerotaz View Post
I know im not the master of Mustangs but, I havent read anyone post about the aftermarket coils..

From what I have read keep your stock coils. After I saw a post on the accel coils I looked up even the MSD version (I liked MSD better as far as a brand) and most replies were to stay stock.

The aftermarkets seem to have issues and dont last as long. Some people even posted they didnt see them help times, but actually they ran worse.



Anyone else want to thumbs up or down my reply? Just my reading I have not tried any on my mustang.

+1 keeping stock coils on my 14' Stang; no need to change them. On an older car idk though.
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