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Old 03-17-2014, 12:17 PM   #1
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Suspension... Spherical or Poly

Had a string that wasn't Suspension specific so this question got lost in the shuffle figure I'll do as a stand alone. I have a daily driver, about 18,000 a year mostly in town. I am going to be upgrading suspension as next phase and am hearing allot about Spherical vs. Polyurethane on a daily Driver. Can some people who have tried either or both lend some friendly advice. I know the spherical will accomplish more but how much does road noise increase? Will they wear out quicker on a daily driver or need to be lubed frequently or anything? Because it is a DD is I have to factor reliability and convenience in as well as performance.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:47 AM   #2
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Come on guys... LOL. EVERYONE here loves to give there opinion and agrue points back and forth. I am really having trouple deciding if i should go with Spherical control arms or not for my daily driver.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:00 AM   #3
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Come on guys... LOL. EVERYONE here loves to give there opinion and agrue points back and forth. I am really having trouple deciding if i should go with Spherical control arms or not for my daily driver.

I went poly/spherical. Douse them in dry lube and they add no NVH. My car is a 14 GT auto DD. I went with Steeda Billets and an adj steeda competition (spherical) upper with HD mount. I love mine and see no need to go with a poly/poly.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:31 PM   #4
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Check out the spohn website, that is what I went with you have many choices to go with

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Old 03-19-2014, 10:38 PM   #5
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I wouldn't. You are planning to drive in all weather and road salt and grime eats spherical ends for breakfast. Both will add some nvh, if you're looking for it, regardless of what some say. People's tolerance for such things is variable. Mine's really low. I've had my sweet share of loud cars over 30 years in this hobby and I find myself not needing to announce my intentions as much as before and not being willing to tolerate alot of banging around inside my DD either anymore.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:11 AM   #6
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I wouldn't. You are planning to drive in all weather and road salt and grime eats spherical ends for breakfast. Both will add some nvh, if you're looking for it, regardless of what some say. People's tolerance for such things is variable. Mine's really low. I've had my sweet share of loud cars over 30 years in this hobby and I find myself not needing to announce my intentions as much as before and not being willing to tolerate alot of banging around inside my DD either anymore.
Well as for weather I am in Naples, FL so 65-95 and sunny is all of the year except rainy season which it rains 3 hours a day for 3 months straight.

This is definitely going to be one of those decisions I can tell, seems like everyone is 50/50. Each argument someone makes I seem to change my mind a little. aaarrgg. Wish i could get behind the wheel of each... but guess thats not going to happen.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:24 AM   #7
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Well as for weather I am in Naples, FL so 65-95 and sunny is all of the year except rainy season which it rains 3 hours a day for 3 months straight.

This is definitely going to be one of those decisions I can tell, seems like everyone is 50/50. Each argument someone makes I seem to change my mind a little. aaarrgg. Wish i could get behind the wheel of each... but guess thats not going to happen.
It's pretty simple. If you want the best performance and are willing to sacrifice a little comfort then it's spherical.

If you can live with a little lower performance and sacrifice very little comfort then it's poly.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:13 AM   #8
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There isn't enough traction on the road for there to be a performance difference. The real world isn't "because race car".

The S197 is a kettle drum for transmitting noises and vibes to the cabin; that's just a part of it's design. Just know what you can stand. I can't stand my 30K+ new car sounding like a 15 year old ratted 240sx on cheap coilovers, personally.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:18 AM   #9
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There isn't enough traction on the road for there to be a performance difference. The real world isn't "because race car".

The S197 is a kettle drum for transmitting noises and vibes to the cabin; that's just a part of it's design. Just know what you can stand. I can't stand my 30K+ new car sounding like a 15 year old ratted 240sx on cheap coilovers, personally.
I'd agree that on the street the ends of the LCA won't make any difference in performance. There was a $40 difference in poly vs spherical on my LCAs and I spent the $40 and went with the spherical as I intend to spend a good amount of time at the track. On the track, yea there will be a difference....at stock hp not as much, but from there up the difference will be noticeable.

As for the noise, I suppose it is what you can tolerate. For me, I really see absolutely 0 difference from stock in terms of NVH. If you were close, I'd be happy to let you see for yourself.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:31 AM   #10
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Wish I did live close I would take you up on that. BUT sounds like the difference on street for a DD is negligable so that makes the decision easier. What about UCA? Same?
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:18 AM   #11
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Wish I did live close I would take you up on that. BUT sounds like the difference on street for a DD is negligable so that makes the decision easier. What about UCA? Same?
I would say so. If you look at only poly bushings, I would look for some that you can grease with a zerk fitting. I think the BMR ones are like that...there may be others too.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:08 PM   #12
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Believe me, the UCA is critical in terms of deciding how much noise you can stand. Every car's different in the noise level, too. The upper one REALLY transmits A LOT of noise to the cabin if you pick one that is too racy. It's connected right to the pumpkin and that's where all the noise originates.

I have cheapo UMI lowers. They have the greasable and oil resistant Energy bushings in them. I use a synthetic grease on them. Takes a pump a month or so to keep them happy.

Isn't Naples on the sea? The salt air isn't the best environment for spherical ends, either.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:36 PM   #13
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Believe me, the UCA is critical in terms of deciding how much noise you can stand. Every car's different in the noise level, too. The upper one REALLY transmits A LOT of noise to the cabin if you pick one that is too racy. It's connected right to the pumpkin and that's where all the noise originates.

I have cheapo UMI lowers. They have the greasable and oil resistant Energy bushings in them. I use a synthetic grease on them. Takes a pump a month or so to keep them happy.

Isn't Naples on the sea? The salt air isn't the best environment for spherical ends, either.
The UCA you have in your signature is pretty popular and I'm assuming since you use it, should be tolerable for the NVH. Did you change your mount? I used the Steeda HD mount and I'm wondering if the beefier mount makes a difference since my NVH with the spherical upper is 0.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:38 PM   #14
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The Roush upper is a kit, with mount and arm, already assembled. It is totally silent and killed the wheelhop nicely, even under extreme racing conditions.

The arm doesn't cause the nvh, the nvh is in the rear end. All the arm and mount do is transmit it to the body. I have 3.73 gears, which are a bit notorious for being noisy. I can detect a little whine at a particular road speed so, I'm glad I chose the Roush.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:51 AM   #15
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OP what are your goals with the control arms? If you are looking at high hp mods down the road spherical may be better. Sounds like this is primarily a DD. I was debating same poly vs sph. There are many happy spherical users out there and centering the spherical bearing when installing seems to be the key to minimizing clunks. In the end the likelihood of developing suspension rattles or clunks lead me to go with the Steeda billet poly/poly lca's. Billet reduces NVH better than tubular or box. The three piece poly bushings address the concern of suspension bind and snap oversteer. Greasable fittings seem to be desired by most, but Steeda removed them due to over greasing causing premature bushing wear. I've had my lca for 4000 miles and the only increase in noise is deceleration in gear I can hear a faint transmission whine. No other noises, vibrations, or harshness vs stock. Hope that helps.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:10 AM   #16
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OP what are your goals with the control arms? If you are looking at high hp mods down the road spherical may be better. Sounds like this is primarily a DD. I was debating same poly vs sph. There are many happy spherical users out there and centering the spherical bearing when installing seems to be the key to minimizing clunks. In the end the likelihood of developing suspension rattles or clunks lead me to go with the Steeda billet poly/poly lca's. Billet reduces NVH better than tubular or box. The three piece poly bushings address the concern of suspension bind and snap oversteer. Greasable fittings seem to be desired by most, but Steeda removed them due to over greasing causing premature bushing wear. I've had my lca for 4000 miles and the only increase in noise is deceleration in gear I can hear a faint transmission whine. No other noises, vibrations, or harshness vs stock. Hope that helps.
Actually Helps a ton. It is a daily driver so the main reason for control arms is to plant the rear down when the light turns green and I punch it. Lose the wheel hop. I havent ever been to a strip or track but might for fun I think. reality is that wont be often though. So really it is about being able to launch with full power. The other suspension items I want are to take turns/corners/pass without body roll. Like turning on a dime. Love my car but after I swapped with a firend of a freinds 2014 Porsche Cayman I realized I definitely wanted to tighten up handling as well as fully utilize the power of the 5.0
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:34 AM   #17
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Actually Helps a ton. It is a daily driver so the main reason for control arms is to plant the rear down when the light turns green and I punch it. Lose the wheel hop. I havent ever been to a strip or track but might for fun I think. reality is that wont be often though. So really it is about being able to launch with full power. The other suspension items I want are to take turns/corners/pass without body roll. Like turning on a dime. Love my car but after I swapped with a firend of a freinds 2014 Porsche Cayman I realized I definitely wanted to tighten up handling as well as fully utilize the power of the 5.0

Excellent! Keep us posted on your build!
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:59 AM   #18
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Here's my anecdotal impression on car modding, based upon a 30+ year observation:

People buy a car and want to spend money on modding. Because they are enthusiastic, they think they need the raciest mod to see improvement. Generally, these parts get put on and there's a confirmation bias at first but, then eventually, the irritations of racier parts play in and the parts get removed and put up for sale.

Taking a one-notch-back approach (buying one step less racy a part than you think you need) or actually waiting a bit until some demonstrated fault appears can help with this problem.

Everything you have said here screams that you would want a poly set maximum. You don't race, it's a DD, just want to lose the hop, etc.

The Roush I have will accomplish those goals, alone, without risk and can support lowering the car about an inch or so, if you wish to do that later (that'll help with your body roll concern).

Another cheap way to improve roll control is by going with a set of poly bushings for the anti-roll bars. That's about $50 for the front and rear combined and make the bars more effective without any ride penalty that comes from lowering, stiff springs and shocks.
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