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Old 04-17-2014, 08:38 PM   #106
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Woot, mine came in today!
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:55 PM   #107
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Mine would have been here today but there was some mix up at the post office. They said I should have them tomorrow. My switchback bulbs should be here also.

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Old 05-09-2014, 12:04 PM   #108
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Just installed my two breathers from Blow By Racing. Love the look.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 12:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:20 PM   #109
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Sorry if this was already answered,but I did this on my old turbo talon and my mechanic said dont as the air measurement would be off since the computer already accounted for the incoming air. Are the coyotes different in this aspect?
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:24 PM   #110
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Sorry if this was already answered,but I did this on my old turbo talon and my mechanic said dont as the air measurement would be off since the computer already accounted for the incoming air. Are the coyotes different in this aspect?
If you place a filter on both and block off the nipple from intake and throttle body the air isn't measured. I ran filters on my 92 turbo AWD laser (witch is the same car) and never had a problem.

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Old 05-10-2014, 06:04 AM   #111
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Only thing I notice is that I can smell the oil vapor when I come to a stop. Not bad but smells like a trucks diesel exhaust. And mine is a brand new car. Anyone else notice that.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:31 AM   #112
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It's hard to smell anything over the exhaust from being catless.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:14 AM   #113
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It's hard to smell anything over the exhaust from being catless.

+1 to that.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:14 AM   #114
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It's hard to smell anything over the exhaust from being catless.
Run e85 and it will smell like tequila 👍

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Old 05-10-2014, 11:31 AM   #115
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I want to do breathers, but does anyone notice fumes much while idling at a redlight? I recently installed long tubes and high flow cats, I was cool with the stench of exhaust fumes years ago, but I'm not as cool with my car smelling like an old F150 since I'm now in my mid 40's lol

doh!!! lol just looked up a few post.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:00 PM   #116
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Run e85 and it will smell like tequila 👍

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Haha, 47lb injectors are on the way as we speak actually. Getting a tune from Shaun at AED as soon as they get here. Hopefully in time for a dyno day next Friday.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:14 PM   #117
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Run e85 and it will smell like tequila ddc4d Sent from my HTC One using Mustang Evolution mobile app
Ha. This reason alone makes me wanna run e85!
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:54 PM   #118
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What's a good price on used injectors?
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:07 PM   #119
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We just switched from breather filters to this canister. I posted another link about putting them together. It seems to be a good way to run like a breather but no mess.




I will take some pics of ours installed tomorrow.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:47 PM   #120
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My GT 13 is SCT tune, if I do the breathers does it affect my tune? Worse yet, engine reliabilty?

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Old 05-11-2014, 05:48 AM   #121
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My GT 13 is SCT tune, if I do the breathers does it affect my tune? Worse yet, engine reliabilty?

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No it has no effect on the tune and won't affect engine reliability.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #122
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What's a good price on used injectors?
I picked mine up for $175 in one of the Facebook groups.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:02 PM   #123
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Oh my God this was painful to read... a lot of misinformation going on in here. I only skim read the past 4 pages, but I have a LOT of experience with crankcases in boosted applications and dealing with crankcase pressure and ventilation, so im going to try to clear a few things up...

You cannot run a breather on the passenger side and leave the driver side hooked to the intake, it will cause a vacuum leak. The crankcase is not smart, it does not know which way the airflow is designed to go through it, the only reason the air flows through the crankcase the way it does is because of the way it is routed. Your passenger side is hooked to your intake manifold, which will see significantly higher vacuum than the driver side hooked to your CAI. This delta is the reason air flows through the crankcase as it does, if you only vent the passenger side, you now have a stronger vacuum on the driver side and will have a vacuum leak through the crankcase. This has been confirmed on cars I have tuned, the idle trims and AFR's ARE effected, and will only get worse as more throttle is applied.


Secondly, breathers are not good, they're just not. The engine is designed to operate with a vacuum for the sake of motor health, engine seals, and just overall longevity. I have tuned and run cars with massive catch can breathers, and they stink, the gunk and crap and fumes just continue to pile up. Also, breather cans act as "pits" so to speak that just collect moisture and crap. Moisture will condense in the can, and mix with the oil and fuel vapors that are flowing through the can and create a milky residue that otherwise wouldn't happen. This situation creates the self fulfilling prophecy of "oh my god, that's what would be in my engine!" when really it only exists because it is exposed to the elements. Think about this as well, if that's what it looks like in your vented can, imagine what it looks like down in your crankcase as well since this is no longer a sealed system... do you want diluted milky oil?


The JLT catch can is useless, its way too short of a path and does not give the oil time enough to fall out of suspension and settle out. A catch can should be mounted further away, like this Bob's kit I have on my car, which allows the oil to fall out of suspension due to the longer lines and reduced airspeed, and settle into the filter media in the bottom of the can.
Bob's 2011+ 5.0 Ultimate Firewall Oil Separator Kit


This way you A. Keep crap out of your intake, B. Allow the engine seals and crankcase to receive the proper amount of vacuum, B. It just looks cleaner in my opinion...


As far as boost is concerned lol breathers are extra useless, there have been applications where left purely VTA to its own devices, crankcase systems have still built as much as 3.5 psi of crankcase pressure... that's more than enough to move some oil. Even the slightest vacuum on the crankcase would prevent positive pressure from building, and that would deter another misconception people have. People believe that since oil is blowing out under pressure, routing that back to their intake will move that same amount of oil into the intake tract. Not exactly, if you prevent the pressure from ever building, the oil is no more inclined to make its way out than it would be during daily driving. Now, catch cans are not perfect, SOME residue may get by and I am not denying that, but its going to be a very small and insignificant amount on a healthy motor. All in all In my experience breathers are nothing short of a cheap and tacky Band-Aid, but to each his own.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:33 PM   #124
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Oh my God this was painful to read... a lot of misinformation going on in here. I only skim read the past 4 pages, but I have a LOT of experience with crankcases in boosted applications and dealing with crankcase pressure and ventilation, so im going to try to clear a few things up...

You cannot run a breather on the passenger side and leave the driver side hooked to the intake, it will cause a vacuum leak. The crankcase is not smart, it does not know which way the airflow is designed to go through it, the only reason the air flows through the crankcase the way it does is because of the way it is routed. Your passenger side is hooked to your intake manifold, which will see significantly higher vacuum than the driver side hooked to your CAI. This delta is the reason air flows through the crankcase as it does, if you only vent the passenger side, you now have a stronger vacuum on the driver side and will have a vacuum leak through the crankcase. This has been confirmed on cars I have tuned, the idle trims and AFR's ARE effected, and will only get worse as more throttle is applied.


Secondly, breathers are not good, they're just not. The engine is designed to operate with a vacuum for the sake of motor health, engine seals, and just overall longevity. I have tuned and run cars with massive catch can breathers, and they stink, the gunk and crap and fumes just continue to pile up. Also, breather cans act as "pits" so to speak that just collect moisture and crap. Moisture will condense in the can, and mix with the oil and fuel vapors that are flowing through the can and create a milky residue that otherwise wouldn't happen. This situation creates the self fulfilling prophecy of "oh my god, that's what would be in my engine!" when really it only exists because it is exposed to the elements. Think about this as well, if that's what it looks like in your vented can, imagine what it looks like down in your crankcase as well since this is no longer a sealed system... do you want diluted milky oil?


The JLT catch can is useless, its way too short of a path and does not give the oil time enough to fall out of suspension and settle out. A catch can should be mounted further away, like this Bob's kit I have on my car, which allows the oil to fall out of suspension due to the longer lines and reduced airspeed, and settle into the filter media in the bottom of the can.
Bob's 2011+ 5.0 Ultimate Firewall Oil Separator Kit


This way you A. Keep crap out of your intake, B. Allow the engine seals and crankcase to receive the proper amount of vacuum, B. It just looks cleaner in my opinion...


As far as boost is concerned lol breathers are extra useless, there have been applications where left purely VTA to its own devices, crankcase systems have still built as much as 3.5 psi of crankcase pressure... that's more than enough to move some oil. Even the slightest vacuum on the crankcase would prevent positive pressure from building, and that would deter another misconception people have. People believe that since oil is blowing out under pressure, routing that back to their intake will move that same amount of oil into the intake tract. Not exactly, if you prevent the pressure from ever building, the oil is no more inclined to make its way out than it would be during daily driving. Now, catch cans are not perfect, SOME residue may get by and I am not denying that, but its going to be a very small and insignificant amount on a healthy motor. All in all In my experience breathers are nothing short of a cheap and tacky Band-Aid, but to each his own.

ST write up volt wings; I have both JLT cabs on mine should I just mount them to the firewall and run 3/8 atop motive hose to them as in the l link you posted?
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:34 PM   #125
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Lol do I just mounts the catch cans to the firewall and run 3/8 hose to them?
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:09 AM   #126
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Wow great write up and like the points you put out. The video on the webpage of the link u posted was the winning card. Thanks for sharing.

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Old 05-29-2014, 09:04 AM   #127
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ST write up volt wings; I have both JLT cabs on mine should I just mount them to the firewall and run 3/8 atop motive hose to them as in the l link you posted?

I suppose you could do that. I am not familiar with the JLT units in person, but i am using 5/8" hose on mine, i believe 3/8" would be too small. You can cut open the factory hoses to remove the OEM fittings, and a 5/8" ID hose is a snug fit on the barb.

On my GT manifold i was able to just use heater hose, which is like $1.00 a foot give or take, but my Cobrajet manifold pulls a significantly stronger vacuum it seems, and was collapsing that hose. I had to upgrade to some reinforced silicone hose from O'Reileys which was like $10.00 a foot at that point, but have not had any issues since.

Also, the only time the driver side can is actually going to be seeing any possibilty of oil is when you're WOT, because there will be little to no vacuum delta between the IM and intake with the throttle wide open. At WOT, but the intake and intake manifold will be pulling a vacuum on the crankcase i believe.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:07 AM   #128
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I as well as many others have been running breathers for a couple of years now. No problems.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:18 AM   #129
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Theres people who go 12-15k miles between oil changes with no "problems," but that still does not mean it is the best solution. Everyone is a product of their own experiences, i am merely sharing mine.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:23 AM   #130
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Actually I go 20,000 miles in my daily drivers with oil changes using Amsoil and never have problems. And the few UOA reports that I get back from Blackstone labs come back good.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:30 AM   #131
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And i go 5 in my boosted applications. I'm not going to argue with you man, i've said what i had to say and you can take it or leave it.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:01 AM   #132
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@voltwings so with the boss oil catch can that you shared, it only installs in the passenger side? No further installation or modification required? Nothing to do on the driver side?

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Old 05-29-2014, 10:06 AM   #133
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Breather! You will capture all the nasty constituents in the blowby and return that to the engine, which may lead to oil degradation. So stay away from catch cans.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:10 AM   #134
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I don't know because I'm in the lubricant testing field, but is the amsoil you use GF-5 qualified?
Does it have the starburst donut on it indicating GF-5 qualified. I only use latest category oils from major marketers. That said, I knew guys at ExxonMobil that would run Mobil1 for 20K miles, changing the filter at 10K. Most major marketer oils will go 7 - 10 k no problems.
3 K oil changes were done ten years ago.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:14 AM   #135
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@voltwings so with the boss oil catch can that you shared, it only installs in the passenger side? No further installation or modification required? Nothing to do on the driver side?

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The installation process is very well laid out on their website. They sell a kit that will either bolt to the shock tower, or you can drill two holes and use their firewall mount. Again, wanting the further distance and cleaner look i opted for the firewall can.

I ended up going with the bare bones kit and sourcing my own lines and fittings... at the end of the day though, i only ended up saving about $25 or so, so its almost worth just going with their kit as it is.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:22 AM   #136
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Breather! You will capture all the nasty constituents in the blowby and return that to the engine, which may lead to oil degradation. So stay away from catch cans.
And is that experience talking, or word of mouth? I have tuned several cars where we have pulled vacuum on the crankcase through the air intake, and we saw no degredation in knock resistance (oil reduces the effective octane of your gasoline), and in several instances we have seen spool reduce on turbo cars. In my own personal car, i rigged a custom intake with 2 5/8" nipples and pulled a vacuum on both crankcase ports and reduced the spool of my turbo about 400 rpms with no other changes. This was a GTx3576 mazdaspeed3. Another mazda i happened to be tuning at the time with a precision 6262 dropped literally 1200 rpms off of his spool from going VTA to having a vacuum on the crankcase. This motor was built for 700-800 whp, and when thats the case you often find a motor with looser piston rings to allow for expansion under heat. Well, when the motor wasnt "hot" from making big power yet, the rings allowed a bit of blow by; such is the nature of the beast with big power builds. We applied a vacuum and the spool dropped, knock resistance was just as good as it had been, and under visual inspection, the motor was not pushing oil.

If ANY amount of pressure is under the pistons, it is fighting the pressure on top of the pistons, robbing power and effeciency, and leading to poor(er) performance. In no cases have i seen catch cans, or lines directly from the crankcase to the air intakes create oil resedue or reduced performance via datalogs, visual inspection, dyno tunes... Granted, this is on several platforms, most of which are not mustangs, but i imagine the principle is the same. i have dabbled with a procharged 3.7 mustang, but thats it as far as mustangs go, the rest have been turbo 4 cylinders. Keep in mind though, a turbo 4 (or turbo car in general) will be significantly more sensitive to crankcase pressures than a N/a V8, which is why some of you are using breathers with "no problems."
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:56 AM   #137
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I dont mean to come in here and be billegerant, but when so many people just spout off things they've heard or read on the internet (cant put it on the internet if its not true right?) its how misinformation gets spread.
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:14 AM   #138
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Oh my God this was painful to read... a lot of misinformation going on in here. I only skim read the past 4 pages, but I have a LOT of experience with crankcases in boosted applications and dealing with crankcase pressure and ventilation, so im going to try to clear a few things up...
Great video they have. Convinced me. I was going with catchcan anyway as I have heard the negatives about breathers but The cost is basically the same and the one you had in link seems to really be a better quality. Thanks for post VERY informative.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:14 PM   #139
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There are those that say it can't be done and then there are those that actually do it.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:33 PM   #140
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There are actually those who say it shouldn't be done, and those that do it anyways
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