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Old 05-30-2014, 08:51 AM   #141
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I know this thread is super stale, but I have to ask; Is either breather or can really needed? If it was truly important, wouldn't Ford have addressed this in either the design or tech release?

It just seems a little strange to go and put cheap little breathers from China on your fairly new Coyote to fix a problem that may not actually exist. The tubing is built that way for a reason. Why go an mess with it? Don't fix it if it's not broke.
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:04 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroadcameron View Post
I know this thread is super stale, but I have to ask; Is either breather or can really needed? If it was truly important, wouldn't Ford have addressed this in either the design or tech release?

It just seems a little strange to go and put cheap little breathers from China on your fairly new Coyote to fix a problem that may not actually exist. The tubing is built that way for a reason. Why go an mess with it? Don't fix it if it's not broke.
Go to this link:
Bob's 2011+ 5.0 Ultimate Firewall Oil Separator Kit and watch the video at the end of it. And there is a lot of things that ford build that one keeps modifying to make it better..
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Old 05-30-2014, 02:55 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerslayer View Post



I will take some pics of ours installed tomorrow.
Hi Deerslayer, what is the blue can top right with the yellow markings for ?
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:57 PM   #144
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So catch can???

Moroso
Steeda

One on passenger side? Or one on each?

Or get a decent breather set???

What about keeping our warranties intact if we install them???

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-06-2014, 07:13 PM   #145
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Artu, that is a reservoir for coil overs. We bolt ours in front of the tower brace. We have Eibach R2's, not sure what he is running tho. (Ours have red adj knobs) His passenger side is barley shown in the front left of the pic
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Old 06-09-2014, 06:42 AM   #146
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OFFROADCAMERON makes a valid point.
The existing system is designed to EVACUATE the crankcase and combust those by products.
I've been involved in Lubricant testing for the past 25 years and I can tell you I would never install something like that.
I can't see that any of this is an improvement. Sorry
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:45 AM   #147
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Quote:
OFFROADCAMERON makes a valid point.
The existing system is designed to EVACUATE the crankcase and combust those by products.
I've been involved in Lubricant testing for the past 25 years and I can tell you I would never install something like that.
I can't see that any of this is an improvement. Sorry
It is plumbed like it is from Ford because they have to have a place for oil vapors to go. Ford is NOT going to go to atmosphere with those vapors. So where do they go back..........into the intake which is NOT good for your motor. Look at ANY race team, (EVEN FORD) they have a system like this installed, NONE of them run the vapors back into the intake. Your PCV valve on the passenger side regulates the pressure of the vapors in the block. You don't have to have a vacuum pulling on the passenger side to evacuate the motor from vapor. Breathers have been used on motors for EVER. Nothing wrong with running breathers on these motors. Just because you believe that Ford wouldn't make it that way if it wasn't best is not an accurate statement. There IS a reason they make it that way and it is NOT because of performance, it is due to regulatory reasons. You suck a good amount of oil vapor into your intake and you SIGNIFICANTLY lower the octane level of your fuel which can cause serious issues and damage to your motor. If you drive like grandma, this will be acceptable and shouldn't do any harm to your motor. If you drive hard and especially if your car is tuned, sucking oil vapor into your intake will cause issues.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:29 AM   #148
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Just like Deerslyar said:::::::::::::::

Quote:
it is NOT because of performance, it is due to regulatory reasons.
Most of you young people don't remember or even know about the dreaded air pumps they had to put on cars. It is gone but the PCV valve and closed system is still with us. All due to the EPA. If your gonna trade your car (ANY CAR) every few years just don't worry about gunking up your engine because of the blow-by oil that don't get burned. If you plan on keeping your car for ten years or so it is a good thing to add the oil catch can. It does it's best at higher RPM highway speeds. If you ever do get a catch can you will be amazed how much raw oil it will trap. That oil does not go back into the sump but is supposed to be burned in the system. ( Not all of it gets burned and just turns into sludge) The PCV hose at one time went straight into the air cleaner. (It still does) Before that the vent tube just pointed down to the ground ( Usually from the breather / filler caps. It is good not to have it dump on the road but having the oil mist and Blow-by go into a catch can is good for the environment and your engine at the same time.
At one time the car company's ask about putting catch cans instead of the PCV valves but were turned down due to worry about where people would dump the catch can oil. Dumping it down a drain is not a good thing, Dumping it down a sewer or on the ground is also not good. That is why this system is still with us.

I have a 3.7 V6 and use a JLT catch can on my passenger side and a Central Florida Motorsports breather filler cap on the drivers side. I plan on keeping my car for a very, I mean VERY long time. I sure don't want a sludged up engine in 6 or 7 years.



This just replaces the oil filler cap.

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Old 06-10-2014, 09:05 AM   #149
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I have read through this thing a hundred times it seems and getting ready to order. Just want to get everyones feedback on doing one side vs. two. Sounds like I should bite the bullet and order both. But want to make sure I understand correctly. I know from lots of posts that the passanger side is what catches most of the oil but voltwings suggested that you should have both due to the vacuum equality from side to side. Can anyone confirm that I am understanding this correctly? Don't want to have to buy two but don't want to do it wrong either. Looking at the Bobs performance for what that worth
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:08 AM   #150
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No need to get a catch can for the driver side. You could go breather driver/catch passenger.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:17 AM   #151
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I only did breathers on both sides for symmetry. Haven't had any issues.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:18 AM   #152
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^^^
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Old 06-12-2014, 08:16 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerslayer View Post
It is plumbed like it is from Ford because they have to have a place for oil vapors to go. Ford is NOT going to go to atmosphere with those vapors. So where do they go back..........into the intake which is NOT good for your motor. Look at ANY race team, (EVEN FORD) they have a system like this installed, NONE of them run the vapors back into the intake. Your PCV valve on the passenger side regulates the pressure of the vapors in the block. You don't have to have a vacuum pulling on the passenger side to evacuate the motor from vapor. Breathers have been used on motors for EVER. Nothing wrong with running breathers on these motors. Just because you believe that Ford wouldn't make it that way if it wasn't best is not an accurate statement. There IS a reason they make it that way and it is NOT because of performance, it is due to regulatory reasons. You suck a good amount of oil vapor into your intake and you SIGNIFICANTLY lower the octane level of your fuel which can cause serious issues and damage to your motor. If you drive like grandma, this will be acceptable and shouldn't do any harm to your motor. If you drive hard and especially if your car is tuned, sucking oil vapor into your intake will cause issues.








1. Correct, no race team does route systems like this back to the intake. Most however (serious drag cars) will have a dedicated vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. Also, Those engines get torn down once a season, if not more, they're not meant to last 100K+ miles. If you want your engines seals and gaskets to last then a vacuum on the crankcase is strongly suggested.


2. you would literally have to suck liquid oil into your intake to have enough to lower the octane enough to cause detonation, not simply oil vapors.


3. a proper vacuum also aids ring seal. The only thing that causes ring seal is a pressure differential across the cylinder, by venting the crankcase you are both increasing windage, AND increasing blow by potential to begin with.


You guys keep saying breathers are better, but I have yet to see the actual proof. I am the only one bringing hard facts into this thread and not word of mouth, so I'm waiting on a proper response...
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:35 PM   #154
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here is one super "HARD" fact

Put a useless ,piece of crap you don't need "OIL CATCH CAN" on your car, Drive it about 2,000 miles. Open the Useless destructive "OIL CATCH CAN" Now, Tell us if you have any liquid oil in that can. Of course you do.
It really is not needed, But if you want to use one it sure ain't gonna hurt a thing. It will catch the blow-by oil that would get into your engine to build carbon and sludge eventually. Something you would never notice until the engine was torn down for something. If the engine is never torn down it would not matter anyway.
Ronnie

PS: Most late model cars that are used to run at tracks usually go for a dry sump. Also an "OIL COOLER"
In the old days we always got that tube that ran to the air cleaner pointing down to the ground. Then a good quality breather cap on the valve covers. I can't remember anybody that did not do it.
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:45 PM   #155
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^^^ Yep
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Old 06-13-2014, 03:17 PM   #156
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This is my Bob's catch can drained after 8K miles. The car sees 7500+ rpms daily on the CJ setup and goes to the track every other week for 3-4 passes. Not even enough to fill the bottom of a red solo cup, and I let it drain for about 10 minutes.




It could be argued that a catch can that isn't full isn't doing its job, or Bob's pitch that the longer lines give the oil a chance to fall out of suspension could be true. The can is mounted higher than the VC, so any oil that doesn't make it to the can should just condense in the lines and drain back, but I don't feel like pulling my throttle body to test that theory. I plan on adding another * of timing or two at the track tonight actually, so we'll see how she likes it.
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:43 PM   #157
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Oh ! Wow, I'm Surprised

Voltwings has a catch can. I see it caught some oil.
Even that small amount that was caught is to much for anyone to have going into the engine.
It sure don't hurt anything to have one.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:12 PM   #158
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This is my Bob's catch can drained after 8K miles. ... Not even enough to fill the bottom of a red solo cup, and I let it drain for about 10 minutes. <snip>
Your engine or can is not producing waste oil correctly
MY past V6/Auto would have the bottom of the JLT can filled at an inch or so every 1.5-3K...
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:36 AM   #159
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I just drained my Bob's catch can today after about 1,300 miles and I got 1/2oz out.


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Old 06-16-2014, 09:44 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtU View Post
Your engine or can is not producing waste oil correctly
MY past V6/Auto would have the bottom of the JLT can filled at an inch or so every 1.5-3K...
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Originally Posted by 70monte View Post
I just drained my Bob's catch can today after about 1,300 miles and I got 1/2oz out.


Wayne
Was your Bob's on the firewall, and if it was, was it mounted higher than the Valve cover? I mounted mine higher to promote drain back into the head.

Both of your cars are also autos, which see perpetual engine braking, not something my car experiences with the m6 since i just push the clutch in and coast down. That could explain why both of your cans have more residue than mine.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:53 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Was your Bob's on the firewall, and if it was, was it mounted higher than the Valve cover? I mounted mine higher to promote drain back into the head.

Both of your cars are also autos, which see perpetual engine braking, not something my car experiences with the m6 since i just push the clutch in and coast down. That could explain why both of your cans have more residue than mine.
Could be, I don't see as much in my JLT V8/MT82 as was in the JLT V6/Auto. I also coast alot with the manual.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:08 PM   #162
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Was your Bob's on the firewall, and if it was, was it mounted higher than the Valve cover? I mounted mine higher to promote drain back into the head.

Both of your cars are also autos, which see perpetual engine braking, not something my car experiences with the m6 since i just push the clutch in and coast down. That could explain why both of your cans have more residue than mine.
Mine is mounted on the strut tower.
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:47 PM   #163
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catch can

Well I did my first install today (I am not a mechanic nor mechanically inclined) I am a network/PC guy drive a chair daily but here was my attempt you are welcome to bash but again I am not a mechanic. And I started two days ago but anyhow. the inlet nipple has a hose inside that runs down to bottom and is baffled from the other exit side to intake.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:04 PM   #164
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I lifted my hood today after a hard drive and my breathers were soaked with oil and it was dripping on my valve covers. So I am going to be looking for a catch can quick. They have only been on the car about a month.

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Old 06-20-2014, 05:25 PM   #165
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Found a catch can I bought a few years ago and painted it with some leftover VHT wrinkle paint so it would match and installed it today. It may not have expensive AN braided line or cost 100 bucks but I think it will still be an improvement over stock and better than the breathers.

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Old 06-20-2014, 05:38 PM   #166
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Found a catch can I bought a few years ago and painted it with some leftover VHT wrinkle paint so it would match and installed it today. It may not have expensive AN braided line or cost 100 bucks but I think it will still be an improvement over stock and better than the breathers.

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looks good man nice job.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:38 AM   #167
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Found a catch can I bought a few years ago and painted it with some leftover VHT wrinkle paint so it would match and installed it today. It may not have expensive AN braided line or cost 100 bucks but I think it will still be an improvement over stock and better than the breathers.

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It does look like its slightly kinked where it comes off the manifold. It looks like you're using the 5/8" heater hose from auto zone / advance as well, thats the stuff i was using at first, but i noticed it was collapsing. Just something i would keep an eye on, but solid install nonetheless.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:44 AM   #168
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It's pcv hose from autozone. It's not kinked there but I am going to keep an eye on it.

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Old 06-22-2014, 01:47 PM   #169
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Oil Catch Can vs. Breather

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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
It does look like its slightly kinked where it comes off the manifold. It looks like you're using the 5/8" heater hose from auto zone / advance as well, thats the stuff i was using at first, but i noticed it was collapsing. Just something i would keep an eye on, but solid install nonetheless.


Voltwings, how do you have yours setup? From the firewall? Or from the strut base?

And how long are the hoses are suppose to be from where u are running it? I dont like the hoses that come with Bob's Kit so im thinking to get the bare bone carbon catch can and run my lines.. I just want it to blend better with my engine bay Click image for larger version

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Old 06-22-2014, 01:57 PM   #170
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Hulk 5.0 where did you get those decorative covers for the battery and the master cylinder? I wouldn't want carbon fiber but just black plastic would be great.

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Old 06-22-2014, 02:18 PM   #171
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And how long are the hoses are suppose to be from where u are running it? I dont like the hoses that come with Bob's Kit so im thinking to get the bare bone carbon catch can and run my lines.. I just want it to blend better with my engine bay
Some of those engine bay parts looks vaguely familiar
Looks awesome Hulk. You need to mix some PURPLE highlights in there now

HULK that bay out
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:28 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by Hulk 5.0 View Post
Voltwings, how do you have yours setup? From the firewall? Or from the strut base?

And how long are the hoses are suppose to be from where u are running it? I dont like the hoses that come with Bob's Kit so im thinking to get the bare bone carbon catch can and run my lines.. I just want it to blend better with my engine bay Attachment 159813
Mine is mounted on the firewall. As far as hose length, i'm afraid i can't help you since mine is on a CJ manifold and the lines would be different lengths. That 5/8" hose is like 80 cents a ft from auto zone / advance. I used that to make templates, then went to O'reiley's and got their silicone reinforced PCV hose because that ****s like $10 / ft and i didn't want to pay for extra. You could also probably just trace it out with string or something...
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:19 AM   #173
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Originally Posted by knight5.0 View Post
Hulk 5.0 where did you get those decorative covers for the battery and the master cylinder? I wouldn't want carbon fiber but just black plastic would be great.

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Americanmuscle.com engine dressup> carbon fiber> and you will see some great stuff
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Gotta Have It Green GT 2013 | Recaro | Brembo | Track | 3.73 Rear End | Boss 302 Intake Manifold -Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Magnaflow Full Exhaust & Tru X Pipe 3 - JLT Intake- SCT 91 Tune - BMR Pan Hard Bar - SR Performance Sway Bar Kit - Steeda Strut Bar - MGW Shifter Kit - Hankook RS3 275 Rear - Hawk HPS Brake Pads - Roush Front Lip & Roush Full Side Skirts
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:53 AM   #174
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Originally Posted by Deerslayer View Post
Some of those engine bay parts looks vaguely familiar
Looks awesome Hulk. You need to mix some PURPLE highlights in there now

HULK that bay out

Looks good!! Yeah thanks for the parts! Where did you purchase the radiator carbon fiber shroud??
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Gotta Have It Green GT 2013 | Recaro | Brembo | Track | 3.73 Rear End | Boss 302 Intake Manifold -Dynatech Long Tube Headers - Magnaflow Full Exhaust & Tru X Pipe 3 - JLT Intake- SCT 91 Tune - BMR Pan Hard Bar - SR Performance Sway Bar Kit - Steeda Strut Bar - MGW Shifter Kit - Hankook RS3 275 Rear - Hawk HPS Brake Pads - Roush Front Lip & Roush Full Side Skirts
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Mine is mounted on the firewall. As far as hose length, i'm afraid i can't help you since mine is on a CJ manifold and the lines would be different lengths. That 5/8" hose is like 80 cents a ft from auto zone / advance. I used that to make templates, then went to O'reiley's and got their silicone reinforced PCV hose because that ****s like $10 / ft and i didn't want to pay for extra. You could also probably just trace it out with string or something...

Do you have a pic showing how u setup it up? Thanks
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