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Old 06-23-2014, 10:16 AM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk 5.0 View Post
Do you have a pic showing how u setup it up? Thanks
On the stock manifold that 5/8" stuff was "ok," but when i went to the CJ manifold it would collapse the second i turned the car on. Had to switch over to the reinforced silicone hose at that point.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:32 AM   #177
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I got our CF radiator cover from Cervini because they had a great price on it at the time. Quality is good, but not quite as good as the TruCarbon finish. The radiator cover we have, the clear coat is not quite as "clear" as TruCarbon's clear coat, so it is a shade lighter in color when compared to the other parts. That is being REALLY picky tho. For the price, I would buy it again too.
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:53 PM   #178
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OFFROADCAMERON makes a valid point.
The existing system is designed to EVACUATE the crankcase and combust those by products.
I've been involved in Lubricant testing for the past 25 years and I can tell you I would never install something like that.
I can't see that any of this is an improvement. Sorry
Direct from Ford Racing: I thought this was interesting and would fit right into this conversation.

Note: As stated in the Trackey Dealer paperwork, customers that experience persistent low rpm "pinging" are encouraged to use a passenger side aftermarket oil separator/catch can. The pinging has been replicated and diagnosed to be caused by pressurized crankcase oil vapors that lower the incoming fuel mixture's octane value. The catch can will eliminate those vapors and will not affect the Ford Racing 3/36 warranty.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:32 PM   #179
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"Voltwings"
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2. you would literally have to suck liquid oil into your intake to have enough to lower the octane enough to cause detonation, not simply oil vapors.
Quote:
Direct from Ford Racing: I thought this was interesting and would fit right into this conversation.

Note: As stated in the Trackey Dealer paperwork, customers that experience persistent low rpm "pinging" are encouraged to use a passenger side aftermarket oil separator/catch can. The pinging has been replicated and diagnosed to be caused by pressurized crankcase oil vapors that lower the incoming fuel mixture's octane value. The catch can will eliminate those vapors and will not affect the Ford Racing 3/36 warranty.
Exactly why I am not taking ANY chances sucking ANY oil vapors into the intake.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:09 PM   #180
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"Voltwings"




Exactly why I am not taking ANY chances sucking ANY oil vapors into the intake.
Its just some give and take, I'd prefer the longevity of my motors seals / overall wellbeing. I Datalog every other week at the track and am not seeing knock on my set up. Does that mean absolutely no oil vapor is making it past the can? Probably not, but if the amount that may or may not be getting in is not effecting anything, then i'm in no hurry to change it.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:10 PM   #181
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Well I figured Ford is in business for a reason and their knowledge base is much more than my own I can only follow recommendations and the catch can I have is dual chamber oil would have to be drawn up the sides of the can from the bottom over the baffle and into the second chamber then into the nipple to exit into the hose so it would be a long shot.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:32 AM   #182
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Its just some give and take, I'd prefer the longevity of my motors seals / overall wellbeing.
I hear ya, but crankcase vapor's will take the least path of resistance to get out. With breathers, the vapors will escape through the breather well before any "pressure" would be put against a seal. The routing of the vapor tubing back into the intake is because of environmental reasons, not engineering reasons.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:39 AM   #183
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I hear ya, but crankcase vapor's will take the least path of resistance to get out. With breathers, the vapors will escape through the breather well before any "pressure" would be put against a seal. The routing of the vapor tubing back into the intake is because of environmental reasons, not engineering reasons.
Oh no i agree 100% its environmental, but i think you're misunderstanding my point. Vacuum daily driving is not good for the sake of "no pressure," but actually for the sake of vacuum. It improves piston ring seal (pressure differential between crankcase and combustion chamber) as well as other seals.

I think i mentioned it earlier in this thread my built motor used to smoke when i left it VTA because of the looser ring gap, when i switched back to vacuum it stopped smoking. I imagine this is a bit like turbos vs superchargers, theres not really a right answer, just whats right for you.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:13 AM   #184
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I put breathers on but I'm getting an oil vapor smell when I come to a stop. Like at a stoplight etc. Anyone else experience this??
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:51 AM   #185
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PCV

They put PCV valves on for a reason from the factory it may not be to us any viable reason but for the sake of practical sense it does not hurt anything I mean 8000HP top fuel dragsters have them. I recently ran my car pretty hard for a few passes among other running since the catch can install (in line with factory PCV connections) I drained it and got about a teaspoon of oil if that but from the line end where the hose connects to the intake I took a Q tip and swabbed it and it came out clean so the catch can I have (not that it is "the can to have") but it is doing its job effectively IMO. An interesting PCV article below.
What is a PCV valve?

A PCV valve is an emissions control. It's a simple one, but it's very effective in its job. Many years ago, the interior of every engine was vented to the outside atmosphere through what was called a down draft tube. If you had leaky rings or valve guides and the pressure of combustion caused leakage into the crankcase, the pressure was relieved out through the down draft tube. Of course, this would mean venting unburned hydrocarbon gasses directly into the atmosphere. Usually, these fume leaks that pressurize the crankcase are worse under hard acceleration. Well, that makes sense, doesn't it?

Anyway, laws were passed to eliminate unburned hydrocarbons from being vented directly into the atmosphere and the down draft tube was one of the first things to go. It was replaced by the simple PCV valve. PCV is an acronym for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It's job is to scavenge all those unburned hydrocarbon fumes and transport them to a place they will be burned up/consumed.

Essentially, the PCV valve is a big metered leak of air into the intake system drawing all of it's input from the crankcase. Of course, a big air leak can't happen all the time or the vehicle wouldn't idle worth a damn. The PCV valve receives it's signal on when to leak from the number of inches of vacuum in the intake manifold. It turns out to be a good indicator of when there will be a lot of fumes to scavenge. If the throttle is shut, the vacuum is high and there isn't much fumes to scavenge. When the throttle is open, the vacuum is low and there is a lot of fumes to scavenge. The PCV valve sucks shut at high vacuum which stops the leak when the throttle is closed and the least horsepower is being generated. The PCV valve opens when you step on the throttle and the vacuum in the intake manifold drops.

The normal operation of the PCV valve is to suck closed at around 13" of vacuum. That mostly means it will be sealed when idling and just starting to open on very light acceleration.

Testing your PCV Valve

The typical failure of a PCV valve is that it sucks shut, but doesn't seal, leaking at an idle and possibly causing a high idle. Usually you have to replace them once that happens. You can try cleaning them but they cost too little to spend much time on.

Another failure mode is that it sucks shut too early because the spring that determines how many inches of vacuum causes it to actuate has weakened. For sure you have to replace them when that happens.

The leak test is made a little more difficult by our cars having a Idle Air Control Valve, so bypass the engine control computer by jumping TEN to GND.

Next, pull the PCV valve from the valve cover.

With the engine idling and listening to the idle speed, cover the exposed end of the PCV with your thumb. The engine should not change idle speed at all. (because at idle, the PCV should already be pulled shut due to high vacuum). When you let your thumb off, the engine will surge while the valve is being pulled shut and then it will go back to normal speed. That surge on release is normal and does not indicate a failure.

If the PCV is leaking, the engine will change speed for a moment when you close the valve with your thumb, because your thumb supplies the seal that the PCV should have been supplying.

It's normal for any engine to surge idle when you release your thumb. That's not part of the test.

Another feature of your PCV valve that isn't often seen in a typical engine is to close if the intake manifold becomes pressurized. This can happen if there is an explosion in the intake (that would be bad) or if you happen to have a turbo or super charger on your car. In any case, you don't want that pressure to pressurize the inside of your crankcase so a typical PCV valve will seal when there is any pressure from the intake manifold.

It takes very little pressure to pressurize a PCV valve shut in the opposite direction. So you might be able to accomplish that with your lungs.

A PCV valve should rattle if you hold it in your hand and shake it. That's the valve mechanism moving around at room pressure. It doesn't have anything to do at room pressure so it sits loose in the valve.

There is no blow through it test that makes any sense. Your lungs cannot reach the vacuum or pressure it takes to close the valve in it's normal operation and unless you are turbo or super charged, the backwards valve will never come into play. (and that's the one you might be able to test with your lungs)

Substitution is the ultimate test of any part. It's a great diagnostic test that only gets expensive if you are substituting expensive parts. For inexpensive parts, it's worth replacing just to eliminate the part. PCV valves are inexpensive to substitute.

There's four things a PCV has to do.
  1. Pull shut and seal above around 13 inches of vacuum. (idling or cruising, high vacuum)
  2. Open when vacuum falls below about 10 inches of vacuum (accelerating or room pressure)
  3. Meter the flow when it's open. (how big is the metering hole in the base?)
  4. Seal if the intake becomes pressurized (turbo or super charger)
It generally won't do 1, 3 or 4 at room pressure or by blowing through it. So you can rattle it and that's OK. And you can blow slowly through it both ways and that's OK because you don't reach the volume of air that it takes to activate it.

If it doesn't rattle at room pressure, it's bad.

A bad PCV valve can also make the throttle feel imprecise. It's designed flow pattern falls right between cruising and accelerating so if it's wrong, that line becomes blurred.

There are part numbers for aftermarket PCV valves in the Tune Up Parts List, but I much prefer the factory PCV valve. It makes my throttle feel the best of all of them I tested.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:18 AM   #186
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Leave the PCV valve in

When installing your catch can you do need to leave the PCV valve in. Do not remove it.
A 3.7 V6 using a JLT catch can is easy. Just remove the tube and replace it with the Jlt that already has Ford oil tubes attached to it.
The catch can goes on the passenger side and takes less the 1-Minute to install.
You can also put a breather on the drivers side but be sure to buy a good baffled one such as the CFM unit made for the Mustang.
A 5.0 I'm not sure about bacause I don't have one.

This is from Central Florida Motorsports A little costly but excellent quality and works perfect.
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:56 AM   #187
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So I've had breathers on for around 10k miles now and yesterday I pulled into my driveway and noticed smoke from under the hood. When I looked there was oil dripping out of each breather into the coil covers. Now the car is idling a few hundred Rpms higher. Can someone help?


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Old 01-09-2015, 06:25 AM   #188
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Roop Ro Low 50, you gotta clean the breathers every oil change. Did you?
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:34 AM   #189
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Yes I did


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Old 01-09-2015, 01:07 PM   #190
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This may not be popular around this forum but I don't like the breathers. I believe they can act like a trap vs having vacuum assist in many ways while having a catch can to filter outside of the engine. Easy fix is to install the pcv. There are a few who say they haven't had issues but lately I have seen more people like you having issues.

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Old 01-09-2015, 04:09 PM   #191
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Anybody use a disposable oil filter / separator? I saw it posted somewhere, some guy had installed a cheap little disposable filter that he just replaces when needed.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:27 AM   #192
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The old school Ford Breathers and inline PVC filers had similar problems. So they got rid of them. Ever see pics of a Drag car with a red rag tied over the breather? Key is if your going to use them, find a quality one.
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:37 PM   #193
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Some of those engine bay parts looks vaguely familiar
Looks awesome Hulk. You need to mix some PURPLE highlights in there now

HULK that bay out
What strut tower brace is that?

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Old 01-11-2015, 05:42 PM   #194
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What strut tower brace is that?
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:26 PM   #195
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I have a VMP Stage 3 TVS system on my 2014 GT/CS running 10psi of boost. I have driver and passenger side JLT Catch Cans, they both catch oil and I check and empty them every 1k or so.
Would a Breather on the oil fill help or hurt or do nothing.
Here is the link to the one I am looking at.
CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather Kit for 2005-2015 Mustang GT & V6
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #196
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What do you think about the breather that replaces the oil fill cap, with catch cans. I saw a breather that is baffled to keep the oil from blowing through.

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Old 01-30-2015, 07:51 PM   #197
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What do you think about the breather that replaces the oil fill cap, with catch cans. I saw a breather that is baffled to keep the oil from blowing through.

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I think it will reduce crankcase vacuum. Vacuum is benificial helping rings seal. It could also eliminate effective blow by removal via the pcv system. If you like your catch can it will make it less effective.

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Old 01-30-2015, 10:07 PM   #198
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So the breathers on the pcv dont reduce crankcase vacuum?

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Old 01-30-2015, 10:35 PM   #199
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So the breathers on the pcv dont reduce crankcase vacuum?

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Breathers are usually put in on both coil covers removing the pcv valve and disabling the pcv system. This is the first I've heard about putting a breather in place of oil fill cap. Catch can is hooked the the pcv valve and the intake vacuum port. If you put a breather on the motor with a pcv system you will make it impossible to build vacuum in the crankcase and blow by collection and filtration will suffer.

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Old 01-30-2015, 10:57 PM   #200
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I have a VMP stage 3 kit on my 14 gt with an 82mm pulley (10lbs) and axle backs, so would the breathers be better or should i stick with the 2 catch cans. The reason i ask is i get alot of oil in both catch cans.

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Old 01-31-2015, 12:30 AM   #201
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Here is the Breather I was speaking of. The see in the pic, they capped off the PCV Valve.

CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather Kit for 2005-2015 Mustang GT & V6
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:56 AM   #202
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You should talk to Joe at UPR they have developed a system for boosted applications. The only reason guys go to breather setup is to keep oil blow by out of the intake side of the system. I'm sure you know this improves the air fuel mixture quality avoiding risk of lowering octane and detonation. If your can setup is keeping blow by from the intake and you are not building pressure in your crankcase then I would leave it as is and deal with routine can draining. If your getting that much oil running breathers sounds like it might be messy for you. I will say my knowledge on boosted pcv systems is limited and Joe works with a lot of boosted cars at UPR.

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Old 01-31-2015, 10:06 AM   #203
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About 12,000 miles and no problems at all.

I have the JLT catch can on the passenger side and the C.F.M breather that replaced my oil filler cap on the drivers side. I still get oil in my catch can. It works just fine. I still have great oil pressure. I do have a gauge. My car uses no oil in the 7,500 mile between changes. ( Full Synthetic)
My Mustang is a 3.7 V6 -No Turbo-No supercharger.





All the breather does is smooth out the turbulence in the oil pan. The factory would still be putting them on engines if it were not for the EPA saying """NO"""
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:10 AM   #204
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Just a heads up on proper PCV system operation for boosted vehicles. The proper setup is to run a UPR Dual Valve Catch Can System so you can replace your PCV valve. But, that's only because you will be capping off the passenger side valve cover and running the vacuum from the intake to the main clean side line of the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can. This line incorporates a one way valve that will allow maximum vacuum under normal driving conditions and close when under boost to eliminate pressurizing the crankcase. Reducing the pressure your pistons have to fight from boost pressure entering through the PCV line.

Now you have a system that is easier to manage and fully functional with the driver side dirt line connecting to the top of the UPR Dual valve Catch Can System where the oil separation begins through a series of stages to give you the best coalescing and condensing properties then collecting the oil in your can instead of your intake and combustion chambers. I am working on a cutaway for the system so everyone can understand exactly how it functions.

Lastly for the explanation of the Dual Valve Catch Can System's best feature. It comes into play at WOT = Wide Open Throttle and relies on the vacuum from the inlet side of the supercharger or turbo when it is wide open and creating the most vacuum. This allows the PCV system to function correctly by maintaining maximum vacuum during boost. This is something no vehicle manufacturer has ever even thought to utilize.

The Dual Valve have become industry standard on the Ecoboost platform and delivered incredible results repeatedly. Now it has become a key factor to improving drive-ability and the longevity of a vehicles performance. Below is an email from Sharad's about what he noticed on his built / Procharged Mustang Coyote just a few days ago.

-------------------------------------------
* Idle / Vacuum is smoother
* Needle on the boost gauge bounces less
* At 70mph cruising, vacuum increased 2lbs.
* MPG on the drive home improved .4 MPGs over a 110 mile trip
* Overall drive-ability and throttle response improved noticeably

So I'll check the can's contents at 500 miles and send you pics.
-------------------------------------------

Needless to say we are all very pleased with the consistent performance the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can has been returning. Most important thing to remember is this system has come a long way by working with many boosted vehicles and the customer feedback has been the success in fine tuning this system.

I am always around to answer questions. So feel free to PM me anytime.

Thank you, Joe

Joe
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:25 AM   #205
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I have the JLT catch can on the passenger side and the C.F.M breather that replaced my oil filler cap on the drivers side. I still get oil in my catch can. It works just fine. I still have great oil pressure. I do have a gauge. My car uses no oil in the 7,500 mile between changes. ( Full Synthetic)
My Mustang is a 3.7 V6 -No Turbo-No supercharger.

All the breather does is smooth out the turbulence in the oil pan. The factory would still be putting them on engines if it were not for the EPA saying """NO"""
Ronnie
Just a quick heads up, a breather will lower the vacuum to the crankcase and not let the pistons seal as good as they do with a closed system. Of course you still get oil in the catch can because the can is connected directly to the intake manifolds vacuum. Oil pressure is not effected by the PCV system it's vacuum that gets effected.

If you run a sealed system which these cars are designed to be and it's not just EPA reasons. The reason racers run vacuum pumps is because they run better and deliver more HP and better ring seal at higher vacuum levels. The PCV has become a tool for manufacturers to be able to get cars to perform better and deliver higher MPG's and the better the PCV works the more oil it will ingest.

Using oil on your average vehicle is not an indication of a bad motor or poor ring seal. It's the sign of a PCV that runs properly and carries oil in a vapor / mist through the system into the engine. Engine are just giant air pumps and the more efficient they run the more byproducts the crankcase will produce. This is a process that has been evolving more and more and it has even been talked about at seminars we've attended at SEMA.

This is also one of the reasons Ford racing and GM performance are trying so hard to develop their own catch can systems over the last several years. For a solution to a problem created for the quest for better performance. Just to share what we have seen the big 3 have been deeply immersed in solving.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:57 AM   #206
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I know it's an old dead thread butttttt

I have a 2014 v6 Automatic and I just got a cai. The issue is it has only one port for a line and that needs to be used for the vacuum brake boost. What can I do with the other intake line? Just simply put a breather on the driver side? Breather on both sides? Catch can on the passenger side and breather on the driver side? I'd rather not tap a hole into my cai.
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:29 AM   #207
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Sounds like you have an auto and got an intake for a manual. Just send it back and get the one for your car, because really your best option at this time is to tap the intake.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:32 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
You do need 2 of them. For proper venting of the pcv gasses. Just Like you have to remove the check valve on the passenger side . and if your getting 4 tablespoons in 650 miles you have a problem.

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You know I question the removal of the check ball. I removed the fitting from the valve cover and you can blow or draw from either end of that fitting. So I don't know how much of a restriction the check ball actually is. I left it in and put a breather on each V.C. No issues at all.
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:19 AM   #209
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Guess I should add mine is a 2914 GT. In other words a 5.0 and I have never had 1 drop of oil on the valve covers.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:52 PM   #210
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Located a missing piece

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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Sounds like you have an auto and got an intake for a manual. Just send it back and get the one for your car, because really your best option at this time is to tap the intake.
Good news I found the missing piece with the port as needed so no modifications other than adding the cai. Other question I have being does it need to have a seal or can there be some gaps around the shield and where the air comes through the stock airbox opening. My thought is as long as it has air coming to the filter it's all good but want to make sure.
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