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Old 04-29-2014, 11:33 AM   #36
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You can go 6-N

As for the other part your suppose to wait until you have engaged the next gear before you hit the gas
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:37 AM   #37
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I never go 6 5 4 3 ...etc. I downshift some depending on if i'm trying not to get to a light and just start again.. but you can go from any gear into neutral and coast to a stop with just the brakes. When switching gears, I basicallydo it simultaneously. That way doesnt really feel like a jerk when changing. (fully engage gear)
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:49 AM   #38
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It depends on what you're doing. It's hard to explain via typing, really...and the best teacher is just plain ol' experience.

Oh, do not go 6-5-4-3-2-1 when stopping. Waste of time and transmission life. You can go into neutral from any gear. Example, I'm driving in normal traffic at around 40mph. Just cruising in 6th gear, bein bored. I see traffic stopped ahead by a red light. I take it from 6th into neutral and just coast up to where traffic is stopped. If traffic starts moving before I get stopped, I gauge how fast I'm moving and simply revmatch into the closest gear - ie 10mph is about 2k in 2nd gear or so.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:30 PM   #39
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To the original question: what you're describing is completely normal when its cold. Once the gearbox warms up that will go away. Many people, including me, upgraded to a better shifter and bracket to greatly reduce this (it doesn't eliminate it completely).

This seems to be a big one that no one is saying. NEVER go back into first after you've gone into second. First is for starting off only, generally. After that it is second all the way. Reason being is that at 5 mph in first you're already at like 1-2k RPM so it is VERY easy to not realize how fast you're going (15 mph feels like 5 MPH to me) downshift into first and not rev match it enough, which can give you major problems. Not to mention after like 5-10 MPH there is a first gear lockout feature which makes it hard to shift into first.

So in short, when downshifting go from whatever gear you're in to neutral or if you're downshifting to get more power or you expect to be moving again soon downshift to whatever gear you like, but stop at second. Never downshift from first to second EVER. It's that simple.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:37 PM   #40
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I have a question for the quarter mile racers. For normal shifting I put in clutch, let go of gas, change gears, wait for the rpm to go down 500 rpm then let go of clutch and give it gas. In racing however, this "waiting" time is the difference between winning and losing. When I try to quick shift, the car shakes back and forth and the meter rushes down 500 rpm. Is this normal? How do I prevent the car from rocking back and forth? Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:49 PM   #41
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It depends on what you're doing. It's hard to explain via typing, really...and the best teacher is just plain ol' experience.

Oh, do not go 6-5-4-3-2-1 when stopping. Waste of time and transmission life. You can go into neutral from any gear. Example, I'm driving in normal traffic at around 40mph. Just cruising in 6th gear, bein bored. I see traffic stopped ahead by a red light. I take it from 6th into neutral and just coast up to where traffic is stopped. If traffic starts moving before I get stopped, I gauge how fast I'm moving and simply revmatch into the closest gear - ie 10mph is about 2k in 2nd gear or so.
Never go all the way back to first, but going from 6-2 has its advantages. If you can make perfect downshifts you won't reduce transmission life. So some of the advantages are 1. increase in fun (it is for me at least. I make it a game to make perfect downshifts, plus who doesn't like the sound of a 5.0 downshifting! ) 2. most importantly you utilize engine braking better. When the clutch is engaged all of the parts that cause a loss in horsepower between the crank and the wheels helps stop the car a bit, which reduces wear on your brakes.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:55 PM   #42
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I have a question for the quarter mile racers. For normal shifting I put in clutch, let go of gas, change gears, wait for the rpm to go down 500 rpm then let go of clutch and give it gas. In racing however, this "waiting" time is the difference between winning and losing. When I try to quick shift, the car shakes back and forth and the meter rushes down 500 rpm. Is this normal? How do I prevent the car from rocking back and forth? Thanks.
I don't race, but that's how they do it. Short shifting is when you shift before the RPMs have dropped to the levels they should be at for the next gear. It reduces the time to get into the next gear and for you to put down more power, however it of course isn't the best for your clutch and tranny as the clutch has to slip. The Mustang's tranny is a strong one though so it isn't terrible like launching the car is to your clutch.

This is how in videos of people racing they spin their tires while in 2nd and 3rd. I've seen people even spin their tires racing when they hit 4th.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:01 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mnl1121 View Post
I don't race, but that's how they do it. Short shifting is when you shift before the RPMs have dropped to the levels they should be at for the next gear. It reduces the time to get into the next gear and for you to put down more power, however it of course isn't the best for your clutch and tranny as the clutch has to slip. The Mustang's tranny is a strong one though so it isn't terrible like launching the car is to your clutch.

This is how in videos of people racing they spin their tires while in 2nd and 3rd. I've seen people even spin their tires racing when they hit 4th.

Ok. Got any tips on making a smooth quick shift?
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:07 PM   #44
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Ok. Got any tips on making a smooth quick shift?
You can't. Letting the clutch go so soon will always make the car jerk a bit.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:46 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by mnl1121 View Post
Never go all the way back to first, but going from 6-2 has its advantages. If you can make perfect downshifts you won't reduce transmission life. So some of the advantages are 1. increase in fun (it is for me at least. I make it a game to make perfect downshifts, plus who doesn't like the sound of a 5.0 downshifting! ) 2. most importantly you utilize engine braking better. When the clutch is engaged all of the parts that cause a loss in horsepower between the crank and the wheels helps stop the car a bit, which reduces wear on your brakes.
Yeah, that's feasible but I find I've got very few chances to bother with engine braking around town. I don't think that's something most guys do in normal traffic-light traffic, but I could be wrong.

I'll engine brake at highway speeds sometimes, or when headed down steeper hills - but hardly ever in normal traffic. It does sound pretty nice though , and keeps your brakes from cooking on you.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:11 PM   #46
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After practicing some more downshifting, I realized that mi biggest issue is that I typically downshift > rev match > and quickly release the clutch to apply the gas (correct me if I'm wrong, but this is probably how people who really know how to downshift/rev match do it quickly and smoothly, but that's obviously not my case yet). So that process would naturally make the car jerk for me, unless I rev matched perfectly and did the whole thing perfectly too (which felt super awesome BTW ).

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Originally Posted by mnl1121 View Post
Never go all the way back to first, but going from 6-2 has its advantages. If you can make perfect downshifts you won't reduce transmission life. So some of the advantages are 1. increase in fun (it is for me at least. I make it a game to make perfect downshifts, plus who doesn't like the sound of a 5.0 downshifting! ) 2. most importantly you utilize engine braking better. When the clutch is engaged all of the parts that cause a loss in horsepower between the crank and the wheels helps stop the car a bit, which reduces wear on your brakes.
Hey man, thanks a lot for your posts and pointers. Let me ask you since you touched on this -- how does engine breaking work exactly? Say, I'm in 5th gear and start to downshift all the way to 2nd, what's really happening there? Just downshifting, no rev matching there. This may be sort of a basic question, but I really wanna understand how this all works and eventually get to know my car inside out. BTW, gotta agree with you on the sound -- whenever I've been downshifting these last few days I purposely lower the music just to hear the beautiful exhaust note on a rev match. Killerrrr.

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Yeah, that's feasible but I find I've got very few chances to bother with engine braking around town. I don't think that's something most guys do in normal traffic-light traffic, but I could be wrong.

I'll engine brake at highway speeds sometimes, or when headed down steeper hills - but hardly ever in normal traffic. It does sound pretty nice though , and keeps your brakes from cooking on you.
I feel your pain, man. I'm in Miami, so I know what you mean when you say you don't have time to bother with engine breaking around town, because traffic is *** here and I'm sure it's similar in Chicago. So, in your daily routine you just go into neutral from whatever gear you're in and coast then?
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:27 PM   #47
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Typically, yeah.

Engine braking is where you're just letting the engine slow down the speed of the transmission. Without applying gas, the engine will naturally bleed off rpm on it's way to idle. Engine braking is simply where the car is left in gear and the engine is allowed to provide resistance, thus slowing the car.

Something for you to experiment with: next time you're on a not-so-busy highway cruising along in 6th gear, downshift into 4th w/ a smooth revmatch. Once it's in gear, calmly take your foot off the gas. Viola, engine braking. Notice how you are slowing down as your rpms fall. Semitruck drivers use this all the time to bleed off speed before meeting traffic - it's loud as hell, which is why you see signs near residential areas saying "NO ENGINE BRAKING" because it pisses off retirement communities
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:32 PM   #48
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All good tips here, I use engine breaking all the time, have it down to a science so I only break when need to. I've been driving a stick since I started driving, so for about 12 years. I'd definitely go for an MGW though (I've yet to get one ).
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:19 PM   #49
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All good tips here, I use engine breaking all the time, have it down to a science so I only break when need to. I've been driving a stick since I started driving, so for about 12 years. I'd definitely go for an MGW though (I've yet to get one ).

Do y'all engine brake for the sound? Does it help the car at all? I always put my car in neutral when stopping, or even slowing down because of traffic ahead. The car slows down a lot faster when you engine break compared to neutral, but is there an advantage? My car still jerks a little bit when I engine break and then hit the gas.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:01 PM   #50
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After practicing some more downshifting, I realized that mi biggest issue is that I typically downshift > rev match > and quickly release the clutch to apply the gas (correct me if I'm wrong, but this is probably how people who really know how to downshift/rev match do it quickly and smoothly, but that's obviously not my case yet). So that process would naturally make the car jerk for me, unless I rev matched perfectly and did the whole thing perfectly too (which felt super awesome BTW ).



Hey man, thanks a lot for your posts and pointers. Let me ask you since you touched on this -- how does engine breaking work exactly? Say, I'm in 5th gear and start to downshift all the way to 2nd, what's really happening there? Just downshifting, no rev matching there. This may be sort of a basic question, but I really wanna understand how this all works and eventually get to know my car inside out. BTW, gotta agree with you on the sound -- whenever I've been downshifting these last few days I purposely lower the music just to hear the beautiful exhaust note on a rev match. Killerrrr.



I feel your pain, man. I'm in Miami, so I know what you mean when you say you don't have time to bother with engine breaking around town, because traffic is *** here and I'm sure it's similar in Chicago. So, in your daily routine you just go into neutral from whatever gear you're in and coast then?


When you get more comfortable with downshifting what you need to learn is to rev match and downshift at the same time. So at the same time your hand is moving the shifter your foot is taping the peddle to rev match. If you do it perfect it will be so smooth you won't feel any jerk at all. It's hard to get it perfect even for veterans so don't be worried about not doing perfect downshifts every time (strive to be at least near perfect with minimal jerking), but when you do and especially a few downshifts in a row, wow it's just awesome!


Okay so there seems to be a bit of misinformation I'd like to clear up about engine braking. So engine braking is simple. It is slowing down while still in gear. Meaning you're in gear and you have the foot off the gas. You CAN have your foot on the brake. Using the brake while in gear does not negate the effect of engine braking. Again engine braking is simple slowing down (by way of no gas or hitting the brake) while in gear. The biggest benefit is that it reduces the wear on your brakes. It is very easy to feel. Brake while in neutral and brake while engine braking. You will notice you will need more braking force while in neutral.


Also don't downshift and not rev match. ALWAYS rev match when you downshift or else you put extra strain on the tranny. You never want to jerk the car due to the engine and tranny spinning at different rates because then to get the RPMs back in sync the clutch needs to slip and that causes extra un-needed wear. Also if the RPM difference is large enough you can damage the tranny.


I live in NJ so I am very used to lots of traffic. You can utilize engine braking anywhere you like although it is really no real benefit using it in stop and go traffic.


EDIT: I should note that to engine brake your RPMs need to be high enough (as Rynarok explained). So for instance if you're in 6th and you slow down to say 45 MPH your RPMs will be at around only 1k which is not high enough for any engine braking to take effect. You'd need to downshift to 5th or 4th so your RPMs are more around 2-3k or higher. The higher the RPM the higher the effect of engine braking. Note that you don't really want to tax the engine a lot with engine braking at like 5 or 6k just because the engine braking effect will be really high at that RPM. It isn't worth doing that just to save some wear on your brakes. After all brakes are meant to wear down.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:03 PM   #51
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Do y'all engine brake for the sound? Does it help the car at all? I always put my car in neutral when stopping, or even slowing down because of traffic ahead. The car slows down a lot faster when you engine break compared to neutral, but is there an advantage? My car still jerks a little bit when I engine break and then hit the gas.


See my previous post to the benefit of engine braking. In short it reduces wear on your brakes.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:08 AM   #52
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Mnl pretty much summed up engine braking there. I mainly do it during city driving. When you say your car jerks after engine braking, I think you are in to low of a gear, or you are pressing the gas to much when coming out of it.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:15 AM   #53
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Mnl pretty much summed up engine braking there. I mainly do it during city driving. When you say your car jerks after engine braking, I think you are in to low of a gear, or you are pressing the gas to much when coming out of it.

Ok thanks guys. I'll try this method today
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:07 AM   #54
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brakes are cheaper than any of the following: engine,clutch,tranny. Yes if you do it right (rev matching) there is not much strain but with this tranny I avoid making it angry. If I am stopping I just leave it in gear and apply the brake till speed is down then neutral. If it's just a yield than keep it in gear till slow than put in appropriate gear and go. This is for normal driving NOT racing or having fun with a fun car.

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Old 05-01-2014, 01:11 PM   #55
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@Jmorney. some narrow or single minded people will think them as stupids, the others will appreciate you wanting to learn! to me it comes naturally and never thought of it, I like to rev high as well so hopefully someone has better answers for you!
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Old 05-01-2014, 02:00 PM   #56
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I just have two questions when you press the clutch fully in and switch gears do you hit the gas as soon as you let off the clutch or do you wait to hit the gas until you reach the engagement point on the clutch?

Also do you need to go 6-5-4-3-2-N or can you just go 6-N, I now these are dumb questions, but I'm trying to learn how to drive stick on a friends car lol
I'm not sure if anyone answered your first question. You start giving it gas as you depress the clutch pedal. What you're aiming for is to have the engine and tranny's RPMs in sync to do a smooth shift. To do this, before the engagement point hits you should be giving it just enough gas to make the engines RPMs match the trannys. When you get comfortable with your car you will learn to do this quick and fluid. Does that all make sense?

Agreed jeanmorissette. Some people are pretty ridiculous. The only way for people to learn is if they get good instruction and ask questions. Some questions might seem obvious to some, but not to others, especially beginners. We were all beginners at some point.
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:20 PM   #57
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Smooth quick clutch shifts at the track require you to only dip the clutch enough to disengage the gear easily and to lead the clutch out by just a little with the gas. You don't "wait" for revs to drop, that will create the jerking.

I've shot this particular car down track over 100 times on slicks so, I can speak from experience what works. You can powershift too but, I am wary of that on a car with a remote shifter that is my DD.
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:59 AM   #58
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Typically, yeah.

Engine braking is where you're just letting the engine slow down the speed of the transmission. Without applying gas, the engine will naturally bleed off rpm on it's way to idle. Engine braking is simply where the car is left in gear and the engine is allowed to provide resistance, thus slowing the car.

Something for you to experiment with: next time you're on a not-so-busy highway cruising along in 6th gear, downshift into 4th w/ a smooth revmatch. Once it's in gear, calmly take your foot off the gas. Viola, engine braking. Notice how you are slowing down as your rpms fall. Semitruck drivers use this all the time to bleed off speed before meeting traffic - it's loud as hell, which is why you see signs near residential areas saying "NO ENGINE BRAKING" because it pisses off retirement communities
Experimented with this just tonight, and I noticed I'm getting better at downshifting and rev matching in general. Stoked about that. One question came up as I practiced, though -- when I downshift, rev match and disengage the clutch while I apply the gas that's when I instantly notice how the car is slowing down and the RPMs drop. But say that I'm cruising in 5th gear, downshift to 4th and really don't have time to downshift to 3rd because I'm almost at the red light, so I go into neutral and brake. Instead I could downshift from 5th to 3rd, but would have to rev a little higher, right? Another question is, if I just downshift to N and rev match but don't disengage the clutch and apply the gas, I'm not really doing anything, right? It certainly doesn't feel like I'm slowing the car down in that situation.

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When you get more comfortable with downshifting what you need to learn is to rev match and downshift at the same time. So at the same time your hand is moving the shifter your foot is taping the peddle to rev match. If you do it perfect it will be so smooth you won't feel any jerk at all. It's hard to get it perfect even for veterans so don't be worried about not doing perfect downshifts every time (strive to be at least near perfect with minimal jerking), but when you do and especially a few downshifts in a row, wow it's just awesome!
I can totally visualise what you're saying here. Right now my process is still a bit of a slow-motion thing -- clutch in, downshift and rev match at the same time, then release the clutch and resume gas. I'm striving to get this all down to a science and do it as perfectly as I can. I'm sure it'll feel awesome when I get there!

Let me ask you, when downshifting and specifically rev matching, is that too "stressful" for fuel economy? I'm not particularly concerned about fuel economy because I knew what I was getting into when getting this car in the first place, but just out of curiosity.

The more I feel out my car, the more it clicks how much of an advantage it would be to replace the stock shifter with something solid such as a Barton short-throw shifter. I'm moving this mod up to #3 in my list, no joke.

Thanks for the major tips, guys.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:30 AM   #59
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Experimented with this just tonight, and I noticed I'm getting better at downshifting and rev matching in general. Stoked about that. One question came up as I practiced, though -- when I downshift, rev match and disengage the clutch while I apply the gas that's when I instantly notice how the car is slowing down and the RPMs drop. But say that I'm cruising in 5th gear, downshift to 4th and really don't have time to downshift to 3rd because I'm almost at the red light, so I go into neutral and brake. Instead I could downshift from 5th to 3rd, but would have to rev a little higher, right? Another question is, if I just downshift to N and rev match but don't disengage the clutch and apply the gas, I'm not really doing anything, right? It certainly doesn't feel like I'm slowing the car down in that situation.

I can totally visualise what you're saying here. Right now my process is still a bit of a slow-motion thing -- clutch in, downshift and rev match at the same time, then release the clutch and resume gas. I'm striving to get this all down to a science and do it as perfectly as I can. I'm sure it'll feel awesome when I get there!

Let me ask you, when downshifting and specifically rev matching, is that too "stressful" for fuel economy? I'm not particularly concerned about fuel economy because I knew what I was getting into when getting this car in the first place, but just out of curiosity.

The more I feel out my car, the more it clicks how much of an advantage it would be to replace the stock shifter with something solid such as a Barton short-throw shifter. I'm moving this mod up to #3 in my list, no joke.

Thanks for the major tips, guys.
Yes you'll have to rev much higher to go from 5th to 3rd (you can skip any gear you want even while upshifting. You can go from 3rd to 5th for example). You can certainly do it, but I usually don't. It can be tricky, although 5th to 3rd is one of the easy ones. Just pop it into neutral real quick and then quickly up since the centering spring will already put you in the 3rd to 4th plane.

I'm not sure what you mean by going into N and rev while not disengaging the clutch (by disengaging the clutch you mean pressing the clutch pedal down correct? so not disengaging means the clutch pedal is up and thus the engine and tranny are linked). What I think you mean is you're just revving the engine in neutral. Yes that won't do anything. The engine is connected to the tranny, but the tranny is not in gear and so it does not transfer the power to the wheels, effectively doing nothing.

It takes patience, but you'll definitely get there! One day everything will just click.

Downshifting and rev matching really doesn't effect fuel economy much. Since the engine is spinning free in neutral it doesn't take much fuel to get the RPMs up. It's a different story once you're in the lower gear however. Once you're back in gear you'll use more because of course now your engine's RPMs are higher.

Just this past weekend I actually upgraded to a Steeda short throw and bracket. It really firms up the shifting a lot. No more squishy, soft feel. Now all I get is the mechanical "thunk" with each shift. I hear Barton is also a good shifter to upgrade to. Note though that it's the bracket that will make the most difference, not the actual shifter itself. So either just upgrade the shifter or upgrade both, but not just the shifter as it won't do much.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:08 AM   #60
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I'm not sure what you mean by going into N and rev while not disengaging the clutch (by disengaging the clutch you mean pressing the clutch pedal down correct? so not disengaging means the clutch pedal is up and thus the engine and tranny are linked). What I think you mean is you're just revving the engine in neutral. Yes that won't do anything. The engine is connected to the tranny, but the tranny is not in gear and so it does not transfer the power to the wheels, effectively doing nothing.

Just this past weekend I actually upgraded to a Steeda short throw and bracket. It really firms up the shifting a lot. No more squishy, soft feel. Now all I get is the mechanical "thunk" with each shift. I hear Barton is also a good shifter to upgrade to. Note though that it's the bracket that will make the most difference, not the actual shifter itself. So either just upgrade the shifter or upgrade both, but not just the shifter as it won't do much.
My bad, I meant -- clutch is all the way in, downshift and rev match but that's it (I'm in gear and all I did was clutch in, move the shifter and rev a little). At this point if I actually start to release the clutch and continue with the gas that's when engine breaking kicks in, but otherwise I just revved the engine and didn't really slow down or anything. It may sound silly, but I've just seen myself in the situation where I'm approaching a red light, downshift from 5th to 4th and realize I won't have time to do 3rd because of course I'm going to apply the gas even if just a little after I rev match, so the car will roll some more. Right now, though, as I'm understanding this process and my car a lot better, I'm getting into the habit of downshifting ahead of time when there's a red light or some other stop point.

Thanks for that pointer on the short throw shifter, BTW -- I'm getting the Barton short throw + bracket and this badass looking shift knob, which I'm absolutely in love with.

Quick question -- something I've been trying out lately is when upshifting (past 2nd gear) and even downshifting I don't press the clutch all the way down, but just enough that shifting still feels smooth. Any issues with doing this or it's just right? As I see it, I'm still allowing for the engine and tranny to unlink.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:30 AM   #61
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You don't have to go 100% with the clutch on every upshift, a quick tap to disengage-reengage is perfectly fine. If it makes a grinding or crunching noise, you cut it too close.

Revving in neutral isn't going to slow you at all. Might get you some looks in traffic though.

When in doubt about being able to slow down in time, put the car in neutral and just use the good ol' brakes. Practice engine braking in situations where you've got some room to screw it up without ending up nose-first into the cars in front of you.

Highly recommend the MGW shifter setup over the barton. The MGW is a replacement for ALL of that weak linkage that is our shifter. The barton isn't, even when you include the bracket. The MGW is a bit more, but it is more than worth the extra cost.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:34 PM   #62
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Highly recommend the MGW shifter setup over the barton. The MGW is a replacement for ALL of that weak linkage that is our shifter. The barton isn't, even when you include the bracket. The MGW is a bit more, but it is more than worth the extra cost.
After looking at the MGW and doing some research on it, it'll definitely be the one I take. Looks pretty damn solid to me, and it's a complete solution like you said.

With all these shifting questions, without getting too off-topic -- how's your gas mileage BTW? You drive a lot in the city, with traffic, so I'm wondering what numbers are you're seeing in your screen. I've so far put 850 miles on my car, and I drive 90% of the time in the city, not during major traffic jams, but still in some traffic, lights, etc. Currently seeing 13.0 mpg, and the highest I've been able to take it is 14.1 when I put in some highway miles. Of course, me learning how to properly drive my car, getting the right shifting points and all of that has an effect on my gas mileage, but 13.0 is still pretty low.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:39 PM   #63
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I drive mainly city miles. My car is at about 8800 miles and my average so far is 17.8.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:14 PM   #64
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16k miles on mine. I tend to do a good mix of sub-45mph city traffic along with 80+mph on the expressways around the chicago loop...

When I behave, I get around 21ish. Average is around 17. When screwing around I see as low as 11. Keep in mind, I'm on an aftermarket tune and .373 gearing, so that is going to affect it somewhat.

My best was 26mpg during an easy cruise to see my inlaws in Iowa - about 70mph the whole way, all highway miles, for around 200 miles straight shot. A/C was on, too.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:41 PM   #65
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That definitely sounds dramatically better than my case for both of you guys. I think that's only in the GT Premium trim, but do we have any settings on the base GT to control steering and anything that might improve gas mileage? I'm putting 93 octane (Shell V-Power) on my tank, BTW. As I mentioned before, I'm still working on getting the right shifting points, and most importantly my engine is pretty new, but I still feel I should probably be getting better gas mileage.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:23 AM   #66
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I'm not sure if anyone answered your first question. You start giving it gas as you depress the clutch pedal. What you're aiming for is to have the engine and tranny's RPMs in sync to do a smooth shift. To do this, before the engagement point hits you should be giving it just enough gas to make the engines RPMs match the trannys. When you get comfortable with your car you will learn to do this quick and fluid. Does that all make sense?

Agreed jeanmorissette. Some people are pretty ridiculous. The only way for people to learn is if they get good instruction and ask questions. Some questions might seem obvious to some, but not to others, especially beginners. We were all beginners at some point.
Ya that makes perfect since, thanks. And thanks for you and jeanmorissette for being understanding, I just like to have some idea of what and how to do this before I start learning so I don't mess up my friends car lol.

Okay well after practicing for a little bit I'm starting to get the hang of it. Just one thing I'm having a hard time with and that is downshifting to pass a car. So lets say I'm doing 63 on the expressway in 4th and need to pass a semi. Lets say I'm at 2500 rpm. First I take my foot off the gas and press in clutch. I then switch to 3rd, do I want to rev to say 3500 rpm while letting the clutch out?
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:23 AM   #67
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Manual shifting pointers

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Ya that makes perfect since, thanks. And thanks for you and jeanmorissette for being understanding, I just like to have some idea of what and how to do this before I start learning so I don't mess up my friends car lol.

Okay well after practicing for a little bit I'm starting to get the hang of it. Just one thing I'm having a hard time with and that is downshifting to pass a car. So lets say I'm doing 63 on the expressway in 4th and need to pass a semi. Lets say I'm at 2500 rpm. First I take my foot off the gas and press in clutch. I then switch to 3rd, do I want to rev to say 3500 rpm while letting the clutch out?

If you're in fourth gear at 63 mph you shouldn't need to downshift. People do it differently but when I downshift I change into third, keep the clutch pedal pressed and rev the engine to proper rpm then lift up on the clutch pedal. In third gear at 63 mph with 3.73 gears you'll probably be closer to 5k rpms or higher I think.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:58 AM   #68
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It might be the new engine. Might also be your driving habits. Probably a combination of them both.

As for gas saving settings...um, there isn't any as far as I am aware of, even on premium packages. Steering firmness can be adjusted thru your settings (standard, sport, comfort), and you can turn advancetrak and traction control into sport mode or off...

Check the owner's manual, but I highly doubt there is a gas-saving setting on these mustangs - other than buying a V6 instead of the 5.0
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:13 AM   #69
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Ford has recommended shift points to "help" with gas mileage. I think they're in the manual.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:00 PM   #70
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It might be the new engine. Might also be your driving habits. Probably a combination of them both.

As for gas saving settings...um, there isn't any as far as I am aware of, even on premium packages. Steering firmness can be adjusted thru your settings (standard, sport, comfort), and you can turn advancetrak and traction control into sport mode or off...

Check the owner's manual, but I highly doubt there is a gas-saving setting on these mustangs - other than buying a V6 instead of the 5.0

No gas saving setting exists, technically. Setting your TC to off, with ESC on, sport mode, or advance trac off will help save gas though(if you don't spin the tires too much)and brake life. The TC engages brakes the second it thinks you MAY lose traction, which will use more gas, even when you won't lose traction, Ford programmed it ultra conservative with the TC. I had everything on and usually got 13-16 in the city, since I started using sport mode, or TC off, I've gotten about 15-19.
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