Coyote Nitrous Longevity - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-20-2014, 04:11 AM   #1
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Coyote Nitrous Longevity

Alright nitrous guys I've been looking at nitrous as a good power adder option but I want to know what your systems are, how big of a shot and how many miles have you gotten with it added so far and if there have been any problems
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:50 PM   #2
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I'm selling the "reaper" kit from blow by racing if your interested. the BBR car is running 10s with this kit installed on there shop car.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:56 PM   #3
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Talk to Rapinator or Ish. They know a **** ton about Nitrous.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:39 PM   #4
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:54 PM   #5
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Go with a plate kit. Either from nitrous express or nitrous outlet, stay at a 150 or below on a stock motor. Make sure you go with a good tune. All the extras for the kit also. Window switch, purge, heater etc.

No problems at a 150, I ran the 150 for a long time spraying everyday.

Once you go over a 150 on a stock motor is when you can expect problems.

Is your car a auto? What rear gears? Suspension setup? Current mods?


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Old 04-20-2014, 03:28 PM   #6
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Manual with 3.31s,Stock suspension going to upgrade the lcas and uca, CAI, cat deletes, Flowmaster axlebacks, thinking about a 75 shot but didn't know if a dry system or wet would be safer on these coyotes never really played with nitrous before but would like the car to last for awhile
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:37 PM   #7
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Wet and dry are both fine, with a dry kit you will need extra fuel mods such as a boost a pump though.
I recommend going with a wet kit. One of the 2 that I listed in my first post. Do a minimum of at leat a 100. With a 75 you will want more right away

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Old 04-20-2014, 03:41 PM   #8
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Those kits have multiple jet sizes?
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:43 PM   #9
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Those kits have multiple jet sizes?
Yes 50 - 200hp

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Old 04-20-2014, 03:45 PM   #10
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Alright cool thanks I will check them out..... Kurt curious how much was you want for yours?
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:38 AM   #11
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He has a post in classified but I believe it's a dry kit
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:49 AM   #12
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Yes its a dry kit. Its a OK kit but I'm not a fan of the setup that they are using for our cars. Problems with anything over a 100 shot on it are going to happen.

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Old 04-21-2014, 11:13 AM   #13
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Ya I was eyeballing it as we'll my conclusion has become I have no need for 5-600 hp except when I'm at track that's why I may invest in wet kit one day
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Is your car a auto? What rear gears? Suspension setup? Current mods?


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Rapinator126 what supporting mods do you suggest someone buys before starting to spray???
And don't worry about being on the cheap end either... If the car needs it, then I'm sure people would want to know just to run a good nitrous/mod setup!!!

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Old 04-25-2014, 11:56 PM   #15
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Rapinator126 what supporting mods do you suggest someone buys before starting to spray???
And don't worry about being on the cheap end either... If the car needs it, then I'm sure people would want to know just to run a good nitrous/mod setup!!!

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Offroad mid pipe. Window switch. Purge. Bottle heater. Drag radials. Suspension. UCA, LCA's. Boost a pump depending on what shot your going with. Colder spark plugs. Most importantly a good tune.

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Old 04-26-2014, 12:01 AM   #16
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No intake?

Boost a pump only on a dry shot right? With a wet shot it should be fine without it correct?

I just asked this in another thread but what's the big deal with the UCA's and LCA's on these cars?

I'm new to them. Only had mine a month now!

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Old 04-26-2014, 12:05 AM   #17
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The stock buschings are **** in the stock ones
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Old 04-26-2014, 12:08 AM   #18
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You can run a CAI if you want. I do personally.
And a boost a pump is a good idea even on a wet kit. For a 150 and up. ( its not needed though) Thing is, on the initial hit it will go lean. Which is caused by all the fuel being sucked out of the rails. So a boost a pump is just backup.

Suspension has a lot to do with hooking up on these cars. More than tires do.
So LCA's paired with a Adjustable UCA. Work wonders. Also eliminates wheel hop. ( the upper getting rid of the majority of it on its own)

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Old 04-26-2014, 12:09 AM   #19
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Also nothing over a 150 on a stock motor. My stock motor let go on a 200 shot. I ran a 150 forever,

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Old 04-26-2014, 12:10 AM   #20
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How long is forever if u don't mind me asking
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Old 04-26-2014, 12:14 AM   #21
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Ya i need this motor to last me a few thousand miles Hah
I was only thinking of about 100 shot... If I can't be happy with that for now then i need a better paying job!

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Old 04-26-2014, 07:37 AM   #22
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About 15 bottles through it on a 150. She let go on a 200, ring glands on piston 4 and 6 busted.

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Old 04-26-2014, 10:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
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About 15 bottles through it on a 150. She let go on a 200, ring glands on piston 4 and 6 busted.

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Hmmm. Isn't that like saying, "he smoked 10 packs of cigs a week for 20 years, smoked one cigar and then died. The cigar killed him!"

Just bustin ur balls!! Not being serious!
Just couldn't resist.
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Old 04-26-2014, 01:32 PM   #24
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Hmmm. Isn't that like saying, "he smoked 10 packs of cigs a week for 20 years, smoked one cigar and then died. The cigar killed him!"

Just bustin ur balls!! Not being serious!
Just couldn't resist.
Troy
Wasn't the nitrous. It was the motor. Let go all 611 at the tires. The breaking point on the stock motor is 550-600 usually.

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Old 04-30-2014, 03:10 PM   #25
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Just read this and want to help out with some information the Reaper Kit and nitrous in general.


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Wet and dry are both fine, with a dry kit you will need extra fuel mods such as a boost a pump though.
I recommend going with a wet kit. One of the 2 that I listed in my first post. Do a minimum of at leat a 100. With a 75 you will want more right away

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With a dry, you DO NOT need a BAP. The stock 30lb injectors and 400lph stock pump work fine up to a 150 shot. Long as the tune is modified to command more fuel, spark tables, ect... it will be fine. I have personally ran a dry kit for several months. Only upgrade was spark plugs 1 degree colder from NGK.

A wet kit will hit harder but a dry is just as safe. Again, it's all in the tuning. I do agree on the 100 shot to start.

Quote:
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Yes 50 - 200hp

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Yes its a dry kit. Its a OK kit but I'm not a fan of the setup that they are using for our cars. Problems with anything over a 100 shot on it are going to happen.

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Whats not to like? It;s the NX Lightning valve which is their good one that offers a higher flow then any other one out on the market and will handle up to a 175 shot if need be. Anythign more, they offer a HO version. It uses a teflon pushlock line that is tested up to 2000 + psi. The rest of the parts is just like any kit. A 125 dry shot on the Reaper kit works fine and Theirs at least 40 people out there running them.

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Offroad mid pipe. Window switch. Purge. Bottle heater. Drag radials. Suspension. UCA, LCA's. Boost a pump depending on what shot your going with. Colder spark plugs. Most importantly a good tune.

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Yes and no to this. If your auto, you don't need a window switch. The main features needed would be a heater and purge along with some plugs. Tune is KEY! For suspension, I went a 10.83 on a 125 dry with just a 18 NTO5R, BBR LCA, BBR PHB, BMR Springs, and a Whiteline Panhard Brace.

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You can run a CAI if you want. I do personally.
And a boost a pump is a good idea even on a wet kit. For a 150 and up. ( its not needed though) Thing is, on the initial hit it will go lean. Which is caused by all the fuel being sucked out of the rails. So a boost a pump is just backup.

Suspension has a lot to do with hooking up on these cars. More than tires do.
So LCA's paired with a Adjustable UCA. Work wonders. Also eliminates wheel hop. ( the upper getting rid of the majority of it on its own)
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Again, a BAP is not needed unless your E85.


Any NX system or the BBR Reaper H/K system will work.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:20 PM   #26
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Dude. Stop trying to call someone out. Go ahead and run a 150 dry shot without a boost a pump and let me know how it goes. When you get out of baby shot 125 get back with me

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Old 04-30-2014, 03:22 PM   #27
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Better yet find a reputable tuner that will let you run a 150 without the extra fuel volume.

On the hit it goes lean. So if you want to chance it be my guest

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Old 04-30-2014, 03:28 PM   #28
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So you by chance who I believe you are? Selling the reaper lit like you are, or is it just a coincidence your name is steve and from Florida?

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Old 04-30-2014, 03:34 PM   #29
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I like the reaper kit in general. For a 100 and below.
Just not for a 150 and up. I know the solenoid can handle it. I just do not like where the nozzle is located. Distribution to all 8 cylinders is critical at 150 and up. And I believe where the nozzle is located at on a 150+ your severely limiting your distribution.

Like I said earlier. You might be able to get away with the 150 dry without the extra fuel volume. But on the initial hit it will suck the fuel out of the rails and I would like some relief for that

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Old 04-30-2014, 03:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Dude. Stop trying to call someone out. Go ahead and run a 150 dry shot without a boost a pump and let me know how it goes. When you get out of baby shot 125 get back with me

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Not calling anyone out. This was brought to my attension so I wanted to address it. But a 150 has been used and no issues have been found. It's max I wouldn't recommend more.

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Better yet find a reputable tuner that will let you run a 150 without the extra fuel volume.

On the hit it goes lean. So if you want to chance it be my guest

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Trust me when I say we know nitrous. The "lean" hit your talking about can be tuned out. No chancing or being worried.

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So you by chance who I believe you are? Selling the reaper lit like you are, or is it just a coincidence your name is steve and from Florida?

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No hiding who I am. I'm Steve from BBR.I'm not a vendor so I am not going to address a screen name based off that. I'm here as me. I'm not selling my product but actually stating facts about it and what is not needed.

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I like the reaper kit in general. For a 100 and below.
Just not for a 150 and up. I know the solenoid can handle it. I just do not like where the nozzle is located. Distribution to all 8 cylinders is critical at 150 and up. And I believe where the nozzle is located at on a 150+ your severely limiting your distribution.

Like I said earlier. You might be able to get away with the 150 dry without the extra fuel volume. But on the initial hit it will suck the fuel out of the rails and I would like some relief for that

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The reaper kit is fine for up to a 150 and if you run larger, we offer a HO kit.

Now you are correct on fogger is not as good as plate. But the placement has shown to be affective. But then you might as well go direct if your that worried. Which is still fine with me.

The Reaper kit was designed to be a sneaky hidden system. It's not a new concept but bringing back the basics. It was designed to confuse and give you that extra edge in a race. Hence the name Reaper H/K which is after the drone.

You took my post as an attack..... Doesn't surprise me, it's the internet but do know it was NOT and I wanted to give some feedback to make sure others know and help you out. I work with nitrous all day and take some serious pride in it. If you want to, feel free to give me a call. I would be more then happy to talk nitrous over with you. 561-417-5555

everything I've posted is in helping and working together on something I love. Nitrous and mustangs. LOL
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:04 PM   #31
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I have talked with you b4, that's how I knew who you are. I'm not new to the bottle on the coyotes either. Been my power adder of choice from a 100- 300 on my car and back down to 200 on the corn

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Old 04-30-2014, 05:14 PM   #32
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I have talked with you b4, that's how I knew who you are. I'm not new to the bottle on the coyotes either. Been my power adder of choice from a 100- 300 on my car and back down to 200 on the corn

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Awesome. We have played with the same stuff. Heck, look at our C/M nitrous car. LOL

Again, this wasn't posted to argue but give my opinion.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:14 PM   #33
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Does the "Autolearn TPS switch" work the same way as a window switch???
I read about it on the AM site under the nitrous express wet kit?!!?
Sounds the same to me, but I'm not sure...

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Old 05-01-2014, 09:46 AM   #34
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Hey guys im trying to buy a used nitrous express plate kit for my 14gt. A guy here is selling his for 400 dollars complete. What should i look for? Is it a good deal? His car is a 12gt. Thanks

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Old 05-13-2014, 09:45 PM   #35
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Bringing this thread back for a second...
I have another question! Even though my other (above) didn't get answered either. Lol

I was talking to a few buddies that have sprayed on the 4.6 GT motors and more than one told me that they had a good tune, supporting mods (boost a pump, headers, intake, spark plugs)...
BUT THEY STILL were blowing head gaskets from the pressure inside AFTER you left off of the throttle and are Spraying!!!!

Anyone else ran into this issue? What are people doing to fix this...
Almost the same issue as like having no BOV on a turbo setup...

Thanks for the help guys!

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