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Old 05-01-2014, 07:25 PM   #1
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Help. Won't shift. Battery problem.

So my car died. Battery*. Triple a comes and jumps my car off. Now when I put into drive or reverse it jerks really hard. Super sport shift won't work. So I'm stuck in third. Go to turn my car on and it's dead again. Nothing what so ever comes on. Earlier smelled rotten eggs. Check charging system came on. Help. Please. I'm stranded and ford service is stupid and won't help me.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:41 PM   #2
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Had the same happen a few months. Bad battery causes the car to go in limp mode and trans does exactly what you described. Go buy a new battery. Everything will be fine.


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Old 05-01-2014, 08:42 PM   #3
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Had the same happen a few months. Bad battery causes the car to go in limp mode and trans does exactly what you described. Go buy a new battery. Everything will be fine.


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This is my second new battery?
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:50 PM   #4
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In how long? They have warranties on batteries. I've had OEM batts last 2 years. Some 5. Depends on too many factors. Heat/cold, drive cycle times/frequency, drain without running. If you let it go down beyond a point, some batts don't recover ever after trickle charges.


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Old 05-02-2014, 12:12 AM   #5
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In how long? They have warranties on batteries. I've had OEM batts last 2 years. Some 5. Depends on too many factors. Heat/cold, drive cycle times/frequency, drain without running. If you let it go down beyond a point, some batts don't recover ever after trickle charges.


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I had the car a year. Changed the first battery out a month or two ago.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:44 AM   #6
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I had the car a year. Changed the first battery out a month or two ago.
Are you running electronics while the car is not running or somehow letting the battery drain? Like nhcowboy said, some batteries (most automotive batteries) die completely when letting them drain too much. After draining to a certain point they cannot hold a charge after that.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:47 AM   #7
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That happened yesterday. Girlfriend left the key on without crank for two minutes. Running a system. Using a optima battery. I didn't know they'd die completely though.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:55 AM   #8
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2 minutes wouldn't do it. Were talking lights on for hours or radio on for hours. Maybe something overnight. Aftermarket alarms can mess with the battery if they drain too much. Either way, you recent battery is under warrant. Take it to where you bought it and get a replacement.


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Old 05-02-2014, 10:58 AM   #9
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And if happens again, something electrical is wrong. Also note that if you keep any chargers in the outlets, they don't power off when the car is off (on mine at least). Some of the charge adapters for phones actual pull elect even when no device attached (for indicator lights).


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Old 05-02-2014, 10:58 AM   #10
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2 minutes wouldn't do it. Were talking lights on for hours or radio on for hours. Maybe something overnight. Aftermarket alarms can mess with the battery if they drain too much. Either way, you recent battery is under warrant. Take it to where you bought it and get a replacement.


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4,000 watt amp though
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:00 AM   #11
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4,000 watt amp though

Ok. So I assume the amp is probably the culprit. And it probably is draining even when your car is off. Depending in how you tied it in.


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Old 05-02-2014, 11:04 AM   #12
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Ok. So I assume the amp is probably the culprit. And it probably is draining even when your car is off. Depending in how you tied it in.


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Well, the way it's set up it completely shuts off once the key is off with the override. Never had a problem until she left it on, but, it had been saying to check charging system for a couple of days, had no time but nothing was ever wrong. The reason we went with optima is because it's supposedly helping pull my system, I guess not...
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:06 PM   #13
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4,000 watt amp though
I didn't know 4000 watt amps exist? You sure it's that much power!? That's a ridiculous amount.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:31 PM   #14
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I didn't know 4000 watt amps exist? You sure it's that much power!? That's a ridiculous amount.

Yeah I'm running a $1200 sub. 4000w planet audio. I'm at school with my truck so when I get back I'll change my battery out
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:43 PM   #15
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Yeah I'm running a $1200 sub. 4000w planet audio. I'm at school with my truck so when I get back I'll change my battery out
Wow nice! Which Optima battery do you have? Red or Yellow top? If you have Red, then that is contributing to your problem. You want Yellow as that offers deep cycling, which is what you want since you have lots of power hungry electronics.

2 minutes does sound short, but really with the equipment you're powering it doesn't surprise me.

EDIT: P.S. Yes when car batteries die completely they die for good, even if they are new. It is just how those types of batteries work. Deep cycling batteries help with this problem as they are meant to drain much more than regular batteries. They still suffer the same fate if it dies completely though so keep that in mind. The point at which it dies completely is much lower than regular batteries though so you have much more wiggle room.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:48 PM   #16
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Well. Honestly. It's a blue top. We researched it and they said running an audio system would be best since it's a deeper cycle. Yet I'm not sure. I think the battery just got drained. It's probably the alternator not pulling enough maybe.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:59 PM   #17
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Well. Honestly. It's a blue top. We researched it and they said running an audio system would be best since it's a deeper cycle. Yet I'm not sure. I think the battery just got drained. It's probably the alternator not pulling enough maybe.
Never heard of blue top until now. I did a bit of research and it is used for either heavy electronic systems, boat, or RV use so you should be good with that. Maybe contact Optima and find out at what level their batteries die at. If you're running such a power hungry system you would want some type of automatic cut off switch. Something that reads the voltage coming from your battery should do the trick. Once the voltage reads too low it cuts the power to your system. That way you'll have enough juice to start your car the next time and you can let it recharge the battery.

Although your comment about the alternator might be the culprit. It might not be possible with your setup to recharge the battery at all. Your electronics suck off more energy than can be recharged into the battery.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:07 PM   #18
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Never heard of blue top until now. I did a bit of research and it is used for either heavy electronic systems, boat, or RV use so you should be good with that. Maybe contact Optima and find out at what level their batteries die at. If you're running such a power hungry system you would want some type of automatic cut off switch. Something that reads the voltage coming from your battery should do the trick. Once the voltage reads too low it cuts the power to your system. That way you'll have enough juice to start your car the next time and you can let it recharge the battery.

Although your comment about the alternator might be the culprit. It might not be possible with your setup to recharge the battery at all. Your electronics suck off more energy than can be recharged into the battery.

Yeah. I'll call them. My amp cuts off completely because it runs so much power once my key is off. I'm thinking it was running just enough power to be running everything and once the key was on for a short period then it killed the last bit. She told me she left the key on for a couple of minutes for air. Figured she'd open the door or start the car. No a/c with just the key anyway. Just circulated air haha.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:10 PM   #19
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The '14 GT comes with a 130 amp alternator which puts out at best 1700 watts. Your car itself uses at least half of that. You are drawing WAY more than you can charge.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:13 PM   #20
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The '14 GT comes with a 130 amp alternator which puts out at best 1700 watts. Your car itself uses at least half of that. You are drawing WAY more than you can charge.

My amp isn't pulling 4000. Its capable of it, but I'm using a 1200w sub output so my amp is cut down. Suggestion
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:15 PM   #21
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You're still using 70% of your car's power output. (and that's assuming a 100% efficient amp so it's probably closer to 80-85%) Add in the electric power steering, lighting, computers, etc and that doesn't leave very much to charge your battery. I'd also imagine it could drain pretty damn quickly if left on at all while not running. You need an alternator upgrade or to tone down your sub system.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:21 PM   #22
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The 130 amp is not pushing 130 amps all the time either. Its rated for 130 at higher rpms; at idle and etc., its probably pushing much less than that.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:27 PM   #23
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^This.
You can have the stock one re-wound to put out more amps but it will also rob you of some HP. You could also look into buying one that puts out more juice, though I don't know of any off hand.
If you don't already have one you also should have a gigantic capacitor.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:36 PM   #24
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The '14 GT comes with a 130 amp alternator which puts out at best 1700 watts. Your car itself uses at least half of that. You are drawing WAY more than you can charge.

My amp isn't pulling 4000. Its capable of it, but I'm using a 1200w sub output so my amp is cut down. Suggestion
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:38 PM   #25
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