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Old 05-18-2014, 02:02 PM   #1
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Buy Forged Rotating Assembly

So I am new to this forum. I recently got a 2014 Mustang GT/CS and I am looking to strengthen the engine so that it will be able to handle a supercharger or turbo chargers without problems. This will be a daily driver.



I read on another thread that a forged assembly might be recommended for a supercharger or twin turbocharger modification.



Does anyone have recommendations on a forged assembly I could buy? Mainly what brand and where to purchase a kit.



Also, what else would you do to prepare the car for a turbo or supercharger? It's been a long 8 years since I have done much with cars due to my school work isolating me.

Assume very little mechanical knowledge. Thanks for your input! I would appreciate help in this.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:12 PM   #2
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If you want the best go with Manley rods and diamond pistons. Crank is already forged.

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Old 05-18-2014, 03:28 PM   #3
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If you want the best go with Manley rods and diamond pistons. Crank is already forged.

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Thanks for the tip!

How much HP can the stock crank shaft handle? I figured I could replace it while they have the engine taken apart anyways, right?
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:44 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tip!

How much HP can the stock crank shaft handle? I figured I could replace it while they have the engine taken apart anyways, right?
Crank is good for over a 1, 000 no need to replace

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Old 05-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #5
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And should I replace the camshaft along with the pistons and rods?
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:45 PM   #6
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And should I replace the camshaft along with the pistons and rods?
Well you have 4 Cams, but they aren't affected by power, they just determine where the power is and give you a bump of power accordingly.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:00 PM   #7
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Only cams that are worth it are the stage 3's from comp. Only if you plan on staying NA. The stage 3's are proven for 45-50 HP on e85. Will need at least 4.10's to compensate for the two loss down low. If you want to stay NA or nitrous then go with them. Full exhaust. Stage 3 cams. Cobra jet Mani. Full Bolton's and e85 you can get 510-530 at the tires. Add heads to that and your looking at 530-550 to the tires. Then throw a 300-400 shot on top of that and your set. Hint hint hahahahhahahahabba

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---------- Post added at 03:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:00 PM ----------

*tq

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Old 05-19-2014, 03:43 PM   #8
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400 shot sounds like fun.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:08 PM   #9
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Only cams that are worth it are the stage 3's from comp. Only if you plan on staying NA. The stage 3's are proven for 45-50 HP on e85. Will need at least 4.10's to compensate for the two loss down low. If you want to stay NA or nitrous then go with them. Full exhaust. Stage 3 cams. Cobra jet Mani. Full Bolton's and e85 you can get 510-530 at the tires. Add heads to that and your looking at 530-550 to the tires. Then throw a 300-400 shot on top of that and your set. Hint hint hahahahhahahahabba Sent from my HTC One using Mustang Evolution mobile app ---------- Post added at 03:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:00 PM ---------- *tq Sent from my HTC One using Mustang Evolution mobile app
+1
Dam that just sound nasty!
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:45 PM   #10
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400 shot sounds like fun.
We shall see.

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Old 05-22-2014, 12:42 AM   #11
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I don't truly agree that Manley rods are your best bet, although they are really good, why not get connecting rods from a company that makes them for EVERYBODY. Oliver makes the most superior rod in my opinion but they are costly. Diamond pistons are awesome straight away, the amount of R&D and machining that goes into them is superb in every way.

And no you don't need to throw in 4.10 gears to make up for the low end loss and no stage 3 comp cams are not overall the only cam to get. You can tune out the low end issue when going with a radical cam by simply finding a competent tuner who knows how to adjust the VCT system in your heads to maximize your down low power and mid range as well, since the cams will be doing majority of the work up high. There are other cams on the market that make great power, for example JPC's joint venture with RGR machining, they devised an awesome Camshaft setup for the Coyote engine that is nearly HALF THE COST OF NEARLY ANY Comp cam setup. Also with the RGR camshafts you don't need to throw in any limiters/lockouts (unless some serious drag racing is going on) which will inevitably impede on your midrange power due to lack of timing sweep from the VCT.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:47 AM   #12
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If you haven't touched an engine in 8 years, my advice would be to refrain from breaking down your 5.0 modular engine. I say this out of helpfulness and safety of your wallet, this engine is not for the faint of heart. There are a lot of 1 time use parts that Ford decided to use in this vehicle and engine. These tiny parts add up really quick, especially when building an engine sometimes stock just doesn't cut it, that's when small parts start costing 200-300 for a machined aftermarket piece.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:49 AM   #13
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I don't truly agree that Manley rods are your best bet, although they are really good, why not get connecting rods from a company that makes them for EVERYBODY. Oliver makes the most superior rod in my opinion but they are costly. Diamond pistons are awesome straight away, the amount of R&D and machining that goes into them is superb in every way.

And no you don't need to throw in 4.10 gears to make up for the low end loss and no stage 3 comp cams are not overall the only cam to get. You can tune out the low end issue when going with a radical cam by simply finding a competent tuner who knows how to adjust the VCT system in your heads to maximize your down low power and mid range as well, since the cams will be doing majority of the work up high. There are other cams on the market that make great power, for example JPC's joint venture with RGR machining, they devised an awesome Camshaft setup for the Coyote engine that is nearly HALF THE COST OF NEARLY ANY Comp cam setup. Also with the RGR camshafts you don't need to throw in any limiters/lockouts (unless some serious drag racing is going on) which will inevitably impede on your midrange power due to lack of timing sweep from the VCT.
If you had some snap you would have caught on that this in my setup / part of the new setup

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Old 05-22-2014, 07:51 AM   #14
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Also if we go this route we will be completely disabling the VCT also.

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Old 05-22-2014, 07:54 AM   #15
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Your not going to be able to tune and make up for the tq loss down low from the stage 3's either.

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Old 05-22-2014, 02:09 PM   #16
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I've seen quite a few dyno's to prove otherwise. I also have an AED tuned CJ set up on 3.31's so i'm also speaking from experience a bit here. Also thinking the 4.10's are pretty unncessary ...
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:32 PM   #17
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I've seen quite a few dyno's to prove otherwise. I also have an AED tuned CJ set up on 3.31's so i'm also speaking from experience a bit here. Also thinking the 4.10's are pretty unncessary ...
I have 4.10's and if the rest of your buil is for them you are good to go. Built motor etc here

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Old 05-22-2014, 02:35 PM   #18
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Had 3.31's also b4

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Old 05-22-2014, 05:32 PM   #19
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Yes, actually you can tune for the down low losses, by simply not installing the limiters. A competent tuner can do this with the VCT, just as I stated earlier. Also just because you use it in your setup does not make those parts justified as "the best".
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:38 PM   #20
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Yes, actually you can tune for the down low losses, by simply not installing the limiters. A competent tuner can do this with the VCT, just as I stated earlier. Also just because you use it in your setup does not make those parts justified as "the best".
Even LuNd or rev auto will tell you drivability will suck with the stage 3 comps.

I have not gone that route yet. If I stick with the bottle and stupid amount of spray then they will go In. But we are getting rid of the VCT.

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Old 05-22-2014, 05:42 PM   #21
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Manley rods, diamond pistons. Full ARP hardware. And TSS oil pump gears is hard to beat. Why may not be the " best " Its the choice of most people. And I'm sure 90% of people would pick it

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Old 05-22-2014, 10:49 PM   #22
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Just inferring that an I-beam would definitely help with the higher revs. If that is the plan.
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:52 PM   #23
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Just inferring that an I-beam would definitely help with the higher revs. If that is the plan.
Yes possibly. Mine is set at 8000 and shift around 7800. We will see how she does at 900 or so here soon

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Old 05-24-2014, 01:43 AM   #24
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A lot of contradictions going on this week on the boards

But to actually help out the OP, try calling up JPC for some really good build info. They really know their stuff and will help you by any means possible. They won't overcharge you either for something you don't need.

Make sure you talk with the companies that actually "BUILD" engines, not just assemble them. Anyone can assemble an engine, but it takes a certain person to blueprint one!

And no Rapinator, not possibly; indefinitely. There is a reason why the GT and Boss comes with I-beams from the factory, the shape allows for much more ductility and less tensile strength. Thus having the attribute for almost no flexing or twisting. Then again anything is possible.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:15 AM   #25
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My motor was fully blueprinted. And done professionally.
And jpc uses Manley H beams also. And are expensive as hell. There is a guy on the coyote page who has the exact same setup as me. And he paid about 3, 500 more than I did. The shop who did my motor, I have been working with for awhile

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Old 05-24-2014, 10:18 AM   #26
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There is nothing wrong with H beams. Plenty of people using them in 1000+ HP coyotes. What's your setup? Stock?

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Old 05-24-2014, 03:45 PM   #27
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Buy Forged Rotating Assembly

Well thanks for all the help, guys. I've been busy and will be busy studying for my final test until mid-June. When the test is over, I will get full salary instead of half salary like I am now. After that, I want to start to work on my car.

Like I said, I'm pretty new to the car stuff since I've been outta this for a while.

My goal is a forced induction engine, probably a supercharger, with the engine pulling around 700hp. Maybe 900-1000HP range with Nitrous. I want to start building my engine to be able to handle 1,100+HP so nothing goes wrong haha. Right now, I've been taking it pretty easy on the car itself though.
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:22 PM   #28
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Also, let's get this out of the way.

Are any of these suggestions significantly affected by the fact that my car has an automatic transmission?

It's not my fault that I wasn't taught how to drive a manual lol. And I've gotten a lot of criticism for not having one.

For instance, will the 4.10 gear ratio be a problem with an automatic?
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:27 PM   #29
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Buy Forged Rotating Assembly

Thanks again for the help! I'm willing to learn!
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:23 PM   #30
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For instance, will the 4.10 gear ratio be a problem with an automatic?
That gear is completely unnecessary. The fastest N/A are running a 3.31 gear. My best so far is 11.4 with my stock 3.15's. I'm talking from experience.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:14 PM   #31
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So, basically, what I've also been reading is that I'm screwed by having an automatic transmission since they can't take high horsepower...

Do I really have to trade in the car for a manual to get more power?
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:52 PM   #32
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Wtf? The auto can handle more power then the mt82 do some more hw lol auto is fine tune , slicks, suspension, 100 shot you have a 10 sec car all day
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:20 PM   #33
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So, basically, what I've also been reading is that I'm screwed by having an automatic transmission since they can't take high horsepower... Do I really have to trade in the car for a manual to get more power?
Where did u get that from? That auto tranny can take a beating!
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:30 PM   #34
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Where did u get that from? That auto tranny can take a beating!

I just saw that Roush only offers their phase 3 SC (675hp calibrated) to JUST manuals. So I guess I just assumed the automatics weren't build for much for HP than what the phase 2 SC's offer which is 625hp. Maybe I was wrong?
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:42 AM   #35
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Auto trannies have shown to hold up to 1,000 HP but it is a ticking timebomb at that point.

I'll leave your imagination up to that "rapinator", btw IDK why you keep coming back at me with a half-cocked remark. Majority of stuff I'm typing out is not even directed at you, maybe just 1 or two I have no problem admitting to that. Nor did I ever portray that H-beams are terrible, it seems if I OR OTHERS have an open suggestion besides yours, you seem to ostracize it. That is fine, this is the internet after all FREEDOM!

I'm glad to hear that you had your engine blueprinted, please re-read my posting. Thank you and have a nice evening.
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