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Old 05-28-2014, 02:07 PM   #1
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idling 500-1000rpm up and down

Has anyone experienced there stang idling like this?? I start it, and after a minute or two, the rpms start going up and down from about 500-1000rpm! Please advise. I feel like I bought a lemon with this and now the damn control arm squeaking and not doing its job! Please help!!!!!
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:40 PM   #2
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Try doing an idle relearn. It's no guarantee but it's a good start.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:59 PM   #3
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Try doing an idle relearn. It's no guarantee but it's a good start.
Grabber...what the heck is that. My cars at the dealership right now...said they would check and see if they get any returns. ..
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:17 AM   #4
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Take battery cable off for about 5 mins then put back on make sure all accessories and air cond is off start car do not touch the gas pedal let it sit and idle for about 7mins till the car gets to normal temp then turn on air cond and let it idle for 5 mins then you should be good to go
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:55 AM   #5
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This exact same thing was happening to my car for about 2 months when I first got it and then all of a sudden my car died in the middle of an intersection. Took it to the mechanic and they thought it could be the fuel pump. But it was the wires to the fuel pump, they were corroded. Got them fixed and it's been find ever since! So that's probably what it is. The exact same thing was happening to me.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:57 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by dabishop25 View Post
Has anyone experienced there stang idling like this?? I start it, and after a minute or two, the rpms start going up and down from about 500-1000rpm! Please advise. I feel like I bought a lemon with this and now the damn control arm squeaking and not doing its job! Please help!!!!!
It's only a lemon if it's a repeated issue that cannot be fixed by your dealership and FoMoCo. The control arm squeak is a known issue and there is a TSB out for dealerships to replace the offending control arm. As for the idle issue, it could be as simple as needing to perform the Idle/Battery Relearn or maybe even a hose is loose or disconnected and just needs to be reconnected.

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Grabber...what the heck is that. My cars at the dealership right now...said they would check and see if they get any returns. ..
I believe page 251 or 252 of your Owner's Manual explains the process. It's known in there as the Battery Relearn. Basically, it resets the car's Adaptive Shifting (automatic transmission), Fuel trim, and Idle trim. It's all volatile memory, so when you disconnect the battery, the gathered data is wiped and the system will start fresh. In order to get the Idle and Fuel trims properly calibrated, it's highly suggested that you perform the Battery or "Idle" Relearn procedure. For Autos, the Adaptive Shifting will learn over time with how you drive the car and no procedure is required for it other than normal driving.

Anywho, I hope things get straightened out so that you can get back to enjoying your Stang.
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:05 PM   #7
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Is there a sound tube on the car? I took mine off and capped the hole on the air intake, but it fell off one day and was idling just as you described.
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:37 PM   #8
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Is there a sound tube on the car? I took mine off and capped the hole on the air intake, but it fell off one day and was idling just as you described.
sound tube? what is that.... im not to engine savvy, normally just take it somewhere to do the mods or well to Ford if theres something wrong! lol
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:42 PM   #9
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Is the car completely stock if you have mods list them
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #10
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Is the car completely stock if you have mods list them
pretty much stock other than the Roush AB's....
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:04 PM   #11
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Is the car completely stock if you have mods list them
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:05 PM   #12
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Then you have a sound tube on it. It's a tube that goes from the air intake(the big thing connected to the engine) and all the way back the the end of the bay. It's hard to miss, as it is literally right next to the engine.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:40 PM   #13
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Then you have a sound tube on it. It's a tube that goes from the air intake(the big thing connected to the engine) and all the way back the the end of the bay. It's hard to miss, as it is literally right next to the engine.
yea i know what the cai is but sound tube? why does this effect my rpms?
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:42 PM   #14
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Sound tube runs from the air intake to the firewall it makes the interior louder for more of a sporty sound and feel most people remove the tube and plug the intake I removed mine after installing jlt cold air
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:45 PM   #15
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If your unsure what the tube looks like it reminds me of a hose going to the drain of a washing machine if your facing the engine look at the driver side strut you'll see a hose close to the strut frame going into a diaphragm that is bolted to the side of the engine compartment behind the driver strut
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:55 PM   #16
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yea i know what the cai is but sound tube? why does this effect my rpms?
It'll affect your rpms because if it becomes disconnected, you have a disruption of air flow after your MAF sensor.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:14 AM   #17
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Does it sound like its cammed? A lopey idle can indicate a vacuum leak, if you have a datalogger you can plug it in and view your short term fuel trims. Excessivley positive short term trims indicate the car trying to add fuel to compensate for the leak.
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Old 05-30-2014, 02:37 PM   #18
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Does it sound like its cammed? A lopey idle can indicate a vacuum leak, if you have a datalogger you can plug it in and view your short term fuel trims. Excessivley positive short term trims indicate the car trying to add fuel to compensate for the leak.
Hi Volt, I data log on my new Coyotee. The key word is excessive I think. I see positive fuel trims at idle, in fact the drivers side is +3 to +5 higher than the passenger side. My dealers "engine guy" said its under 10 and within specs. Still to me the passenger side is so close to zero most of the time and the drivers side always more makes me wonder about small intake manifold leak. I did run a Propane test on each side and found nothing.

When running at 2000 rpms both side match, just like a leak would act. Yes I also have a "slight" lope of about 100rpms at idle. Still within specs engine guy says; perhaps so. I am going to try fuse pull 47 on my MT82 and see if it clears the fuel trims as well tonight. This is the fuse that resets the dynamic shifting on an Auto, and MT82 guys said it re-wakes their cars up on throttle responses.
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:44 PM   #19
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Hi Volt, I data log on my new Coyotee. The key word is excessive I think. I see positive fuel trims at idle, in fact the drivers side is +3 to +5 higher than the passenger side. My dealers "engine guy" said its under 10 and within specs. Still to me the passenger side is so close to zero most of the time and the drivers side always more makes me wonder about small intake manifold leak. I did run a Propane test on each side and found nothing.

When running at 2000 rpms both side match, just like a leak would act. Yes I also have a "slight" lope of about 100rpms at idle. Still within specs engine guy says; perhaps so. I am going to try fuse pull 47 on my MT82 and see if it clears the fuel trims as well tonight. This is the fuse that resets the dynamic shifting on an Auto, and MT82 guys said it re-wakes their cars up on throttle responses.
The key word is excessive lol, i'm talking like 30-40%, 3-5% is perfectly fine. I don't think you will see a leak just on one side of the manifold, its likely just a variance in the o2 readings. I don't think you have a leak at all, i was just pointing at another possibility.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:49 AM   #20
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The key word is excessive lol, i'm talking like 30-40%, 3-5% is perfectly fine. I don't think you will see a leak just on one side of the manifold, its likely just a variance in the o2 readings. I don't think you have a leak at all, i was just pointing at another possibility.
Thanks, the more that confirm that to me the better I feel I don't have a leak !
I do see quick changes in long term trims in real time, but that was explained to me as a different set of sensors in the V8 over the V6 that were designed to provide quick feedback.

The V6 long terms trims moved slow over time. The V8 long term trims move fast like the V6s short term trims did.

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