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Old 06-09-2014, 12:35 PM   #1
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DSS Aluminum Driveshaft

I recently installed a DSS aluminum driveshaft. Install went pretty smooth, minus having to pry my exhaust down a bit to get the alum one into place (i suggest doing this without the exhaust if at all possible. Everything is smooth up to 100mph (i am sure it is OK above this also, i just haven't checked). The only thing i have noticed is a high pitch whine at ~78mph. Almost sounds like a dog whistle. No noise at speeds lower or higher (besides the diff whining because Ford installed my gears incorrectly for a 2nd time but rejected my warranty return because of my suspension work). Anyways, anyone else have something similar? My best guess is that I'm hitting the resonance of something on/in the car at that speed/rpm. There is no vibration that I can notice, so i don't think its the actual driveshaft itself. Thoughts?
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:30 PM   #2
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Do u have 3.73 gears?

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Old 06-09-2014, 01:31 PM   #3
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With a one-piece aluminum driveshaft you may get a harmonic resonance unlike your two-piece stock shaft. I have a Shaft Masters one piece and it had a harmonic resonance at 3000 RPM until I put a driveshaft safety loop on, then it went away.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:33 PM   #4
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We have a Dynotech one piece DS and you will "hear" new noises that you would not from the two piece DS. Same thing when you switch from OEM suspension to firmer poly's and spherical bushings. You will hear things you previously did not. The important thing is ZERO vibrations. We have run ours on a dyno >150mph and did in a run on road in Mexico at that speed and no vibrations. 3:73 gears on notorious for not being the quietest of gears. I would not be too concerned if it is not vibrating. It is probably just harmonic sound from your rear end.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:37 PM   #5
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What Deerslayer is saying is right on the money. I have new noises because of all the poly bushings and stiffer suspension. Nothing to be concerned about.
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:51 PM   #6
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I definitely expected new noises following the install. I plan to install a safety loop at some point - i knew i wasn't going to have enough time to do so during this install. I was just curious if anyone else had experienced this as well or if they determined where the noise was coming from. It sounds like it's coming from the drivers side A-pillar area.. but I have a feeling it's a drive train noise being transferred through all of those nice new rigid parts.

Also, yes i do have 3:73's, but they've made noises since day 1 so I'm very familiar with them. I had Ford replace them under warranty once already, but they refused to do so a 2nd time after i lowered the car (springs/shocks/struts/uca/lca/panhard). Apparently all of the shiny red BMR parts turned them off a bit.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:09 AM   #7
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Just wondering which safety loops you guys are using? Looks like there's front and rear loops? Please provide a link if possible! Thanks!

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Old 06-10-2014, 12:54 PM   #8
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Alot just run the front stifflers ds safety loop from what I see

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Old 06-10-2014, 02:46 PM   #9
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DSS Shaft

Did you or the installer check the Pinion angle? (not being smart or anything just asking) as the geometry changes when you install a one piece and the measurements are quite different but you still want a neg 2.7 to 3 degrees in the end.

Here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only.

Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.

It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.

Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).

Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down.

Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.

Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.

At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.

On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.

Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:14 PM   #10
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Not a stupid question! If I'm honest, I did not recheck it. When I lowered my car, I adjust the angle eat - 2.5deg, as bmr specified manual cars should be between - 2 and - 3deg. DSS instructions state that pinion angle does not need to be adjusted when installing the one piece.

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Old 06-10-2014, 11:26 PM   #11
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I use the Stiffler's safety loop. You do not need to remove the driveshaft or anything else as many of the other types require you to do. Install is really easy once you get the car up high enough to work safely under it. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-11-2014, 07:05 AM   #12
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Thanks for the replies! Thats the one i've been eye-ing up for a few days now. Regarding the pinion angle.. can anyone help with which jam-nut is the right-hand thread vs. the left-hand thread on the BMR Upper Control Arm. I am having a hell of a time getting the jam-nuts loose and i want to make sure i am turning them the proper direction.. it's not exactly in an easy spot to get to while on jack stands, not to mention a 1-1/2" wrench isn't exactly the smallest tool to get into that crammed area.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:08 PM   #13
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Call Kelly at BMR. He is very helpful and can assist you with any of his products. There is a much easier way to set your pinion angle than mentioned above. Ask Kelly. Too easy
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Old 06-12-2014, 04:50 PM   #14
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Thanks for the suggestion.. I always forget I can just call the supplier. Kelly provided me with some good info, hopefully it'll translate well once I'm under the car

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