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Old 07-03-2014, 07:25 PM   #1
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Breaking in

I just traded my 13' GT deluxe for a 2014 track pack and want to know if anyone has any recommendations about if this motor requires any special techniques or babying. With my last mustang I just made sure not to hit rev limiter and not keep a constant RPM for the first 500 miles or so.I've heard all kinds of different info from people, some say baby it until my first oil change to this engine is ready to go as soon as you drive it off the lot but I am still skeptical. I've called ford racing to ask about proper break in for the new 5.0. and they basically told me the same thing drive it like you stole it just don't rap it out until it's up to operating temp which is obvious with any engine. Anyway probably a stupid a$$ question but thanks for any info anyone has.


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Old 07-03-2014, 08:03 PM   #2
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This is always a heated an opinionated topic. My recommendation, follow what the owners manual states regarding break-in, I'm pretty sure something is in the manual.
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:52 PM   #3
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Back when they first started using Roller Lifters the Breaking In process was pretty much eliminated. You can get on it right out the lot if you choose to. Me...well considering it's a big investment...I'd probably baby it a little the 1st month. Never hurts to play it safe.
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Old 07-04-2014, 02:32 AM   #4
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It's the same freakin motor

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Old 07-04-2014, 07:07 AM   #5
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The dual overhead cam set-up with bucket lifters is a dang stout set-up. No longer dealing with push rods and a single cam. Its all squared off and symmetrical in every way. Beat the crap out of it. I've worked on studies, especially on bikes that use bucket lifters as well and rev to 16k rpms. Hard break in's show better longevity then a "babyish" break in due to the fact that you are allowing everything to mesh together more quickly than everything still trying to mesh after hundreds of miles. For legal and liability reasons a dealer or manufacture cannot tell you, "Yeah. Go on the interstate and top it out several times." If the engine is going to spin a bearing or have a catastrophic mechanical failure, it's going to do it because of improper install or a part defect. Not because of the way the engine was broken in. Engines typically get broken in on a dyno and checked over for errors before being sent out depending on the manufacture. Not sure about Ford engines, but either way. I say, "stop worrying about it and just have fun. Do some 2nd gear pulls and try to pull your head off the seat."
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:24 AM   #6
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BreakIn

I would just have fun man, I left the dealership sideways just don't bang on the rev limiter just go have fun. One thing I would do is change the oil at 1k miles its in the manual as a suggestion and I would do that I know I did none the less of all opinions shared I followed the Ford suggestions.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:31 PM   #7
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I just changed my oil today at 1200 miles. I went with castrol full synthetic 5w20


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Old 07-09-2014, 08:48 AM   #8
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I just changed my oil today at 1200 miles. I went with castrol full synthetic 5w20


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Good job changing first oil change soon enough though next time use amsoil. Just a recommendation. You get what you pay for. Castrol is definitely one of the bottom ones on my list.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:35 AM   #9
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Getting my oil change right now. Getting unsynthetic. They said synthetic was for Shelby's
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #10
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Breaking in

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Getting my oil change right now. Getting unsynthetic. They said synthetic was for Shelby's

...........

That is the stupidest thing I have heard all day. You WANT synthetic. Either take it back and have them out synthetic in because their advice sucks, or go do it yourself.... Either way PUT SYNTHETIC IN!!!!


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Old 07-09-2014, 09:38 AM   #11
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Oh noes don't start another debate on oils! My personal break in procedure is:

At around 100 miles change the oil with fresh Motorcraft. At 500 miles change it again. At 1000 miles do the first change with whatever oil you will be running for the life of the motor. Amsoil is the best out there, but it is ridiculously overkill unless you are going to be tracking your car on a consistent basis and even then. Mobil 1 is one of the best oils out there and is $26 for a 5 quart jug of it at Wal Mart. 3 jugs per every 2 oil changes and WIX filters and you will never have an issue ever. IMHO the filter is the more important part of the equation anyway as all oils sold in the US have to meet acceptable standards, even the no-name autozone brands.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Getting my oil change right now. Getting unsynthetic. They said synthetic was for Shelby's
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Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
...........

That is the stupidest thing I have heard all day. You WANT synthetic. Either take it back and have them out synthetic in because their advice sucks, or go do it yourself.... Either way PUT SYNTHETIC IN!!!!


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Technically that place is right, the Coyotes all get Motorcraft which is a Syn Blend, not a full syn. Shelbys get full syn. However, this shop needs to be clear wtf they are using because they should not be using dino oil. Or you can just make sure its done right the first time and DIY for probably less than you are being charged by some oil change place where high schoolers/untrained labor do the oil changes.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:46 AM   #13
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Technically that place is right, the Coyotes all get Motorcraft which is a Syn Blend, not a full syn. Shelbys get full syn. However, this shop needs to be clear wtf they are using because they should not be using dino oil. Or you can just make sure its done right the first time and DIY for probably less than you are being charged by some oil change place where high schoolers/untrained labor do the oil changes.

Yea from what I've seen most of the time whenever a place says "non-synthetic" they are talking about Dino oil. A synthetic blend would be fine, but my fear is they are using Dino oil.


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Old 07-09-2014, 10:04 AM   #14
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Dino isn't going to hurt it really, but it will need another change pretty quick, in 3-4k miles honestly. If that shop for him did use Dino he should make them use at least motorcraft and watch them pour it in. I once bought a vehicle where the guy was all proud of having a stack of receipts from about 4 years that he owned it. Most of those were $65 for fluid/brake checks and an oil change with "bulk oil" and "standard filter". What happens when 90% of people don't even know where the hood latch is...
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:07 PM   #15
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Dino could hurt it, because Johnny says so. Or maybe not. A huge American automotive power hitter like Ford has got to be talking out their behind. No way Motorcraft is good enough, because Johnny says so.

If 100 then 500 miles is the "best" way to change oil on break-in, you should step up to the plate and do better, like 50 mile oil changes, full synthetic for the first 5000 miles.

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Old 07-09-2014, 01:16 PM   #16
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...or maybe you should do some research, like everyone says. Again, go above and beyond, go to college and get some sort of engineering degree in fluid dynamics. Maybe you'll want to "Master" the craft - plan on 2 more years of schooling and the additional school loans. Probably enough debt to purchase 2 more Mustangs. Because these cars you know are so much more special than the next car. The engine is more different, it HAS to be treated differently than any other engine on the planet.

You must buy the shiniest bottle you can find on the market that costs the most money because, hell, it's gotta be better because it says so. But wait a second, all those average oil companies all say they're better too on their labeling. So who's better? What's your favorite color? Green? Blue? Yellow? No way, not the green or yellow ones because Walmart sells it, and God forbid we associate ourselves with something that is sold there and all them Walzmart folk.

Maybe the grocery store special will work? No way, it's in a generic bottle so the stuff inside has got to be generic too. I bet it's made right next door to the green bean cannery. Maybe that's why they call certain ones "wax beans".

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Old 07-09-2014, 03:20 PM   #17
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I already did the oil change to full Syn at 970 miles, I have read a few things that some recommend the trans / diff fluid changed as well, however, I feel that is WAY overkill...

Thoughts, opinions?

I have the MT82...
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