Aluminum Drive Shaft or Boss Manifold - Mustang Evolution

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View Poll Results: Drive Shaft vs. Manifold
Drive Shaft 21 84.00%
Manifold 4 16.00%
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:04 PM   #1
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Aluminum Drive Shaft or Boss Manifold

Deciding on my next mod. Narrowed it down to either a one piece aluminum drive shaft or the Boss 302 intake manifold. They both run around the same price so I was just wondering what you guys thought would be more beneficial with what I already have. I know the benefits of both, but I really cant decide. Thanks in advance.

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Old 07-24-2014, 12:17 PM   #2
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Boss manifold is good if you plan to rev the car higher than the factory limiter. If you don't then don't waste the money on it. I say go with the driveshaft.


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Old 07-24-2014, 12:23 PM   #3
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Ya I read the benefit from the manifold kicks in around 7000-7600. I plan on taking my car to the strip later down the road, but how high can these engines really rev before it can start to cause problems. Does the manifold make it any safer to go that high?
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:23 PM   #4
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The manifold does not make it safer, it just helps the engine breathe more efficiently at the higher rpm range.

Anything over the stock rev limiter can eventually cause damage. The weakest part in the stock motor is the pistons.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:28 PM   #5
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It could not possibly be that unsafe to push it up to at least 7400 considering how popular of a mod among coyote owners it is.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:40 PM   #6
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You will need to spin past 7500 with the boss. Meaning do not shift under 7500 with it.
If your not willing to do this get the driveshaft.

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Old 07-24-2014, 10:42 PM   #7
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Good luck with bama getting you a tune to spin past 7500 also.

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Old 07-24-2014, 11:09 PM   #8
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I did a little more research and there seem to be a lot of people out there that take theirs 7500-7800 on the daily with no problems. One person even said on this forum that Bama told them 7800 was safe.
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:14 AM   #9
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It needs to be spun past 7500.
And 7800 on a stock motor is not safe, bama is not the company to listen to.


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Old 07-25-2014, 06:38 AM   #10
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I've had a Bama tune & boss manifold on my stock motor for the last couple of years. I haven't had any problems hitting 7,800 rpm. It's been on there for at least 45K miles. Plus take it out on the drift track about every other month.

But I would like a one piece drive shaft. My stock one is noisy.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:00 AM   #11
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I guess I will stick with the drive shaft for now. I will more than likely still do the manifold in the future, but ive heard only good things about upgrading to the one piece so I should be happy with that decision.
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:47 PM   #12
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Whats the point in switching to a different driveshaft if the stock one is fine? Is there any REAL actual performance increase?
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrMaster View Post
Whats the point in switching to a different driveshaft if the stock one is fine? Is there any REAL actual performance increase?

just lighter. and I've read its helped some people shed some time off on the stip.
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #14
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Aluminum Drive Shaft or Boss Manifold

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Originally Posted by UrMaster View Post
Whats the point in switching to a different driveshaft if the stock one is fine? Is there any REAL actual performance increase?
Rotational mass so it makes the turning if the wheels and delivery of the power more efficient. Imagine running shoes. Can u run faster and accelerate faster with a half pound Nike or a two pound work boot?

Both u and ur car have enough power to use those shoes but with half pound running shoes u will accelerate fractionally faster.

Same with ur car. That's why u net like 0.2-0.3sec faster in a quarter and a mile or two faster with a lighter driveshaft although power stays the same.
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by UrMaster View Post
Whats the point in switching to a different driveshaft if the stock one is fine? Is there any REAL actual performance increase?

Less weight to spin means less power lost in the drivetrain. Every pound of rotational mass you take out is equal to around 6 pounds of whatever sitting inside your car.

Also they are balanced much better, and the 2 piece design of the stock driveshaft is horrible.

A driveshaft is a great mod.


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Old 07-25-2014, 05:44 PM   #16
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As others have said the boss manifold helps you in the upper rpm band only. For daily driving you'll get more use out of a driveshaft.

I plan on a driveshaft as my next mod. There's a group buy being arranged on another site for a DSS driveshaft, in case you decide to go with that.
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:02 PM   #17
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Killer combo is driveshaft, gears, and manifold.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasStang77 View Post
Rotational mass so it makes the turning if the wheels and delivery of the power more efficient. Imagine running shoes. Can u run faster and accelerate faster with a half pound Nike or a two pound work boot?

Both u and ur car have enough power to use those shoes but with half pound running shoes u will accelerate fractionally faster.

Same with ur car. That's why u net like 0.2-0.3sec faster in a quarter and a mile or two faster with a lighter driveshaft although power stays the same.
2-3 tenths really?! This I like lol

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Old 07-26-2014, 07:37 AM   #19
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F.Y.I. I just bought a 2014 GT. Wanted to do a driveshaft too. Was kind of stunned by the prices. But did learn you definitely need a direct bolt in. Not one that requires the removal of the pinion nut and flange. And of course a CV joint. Best deal I found was Shaftmasters. 3.5" tube, CV joint, direct bolt in, rated to 900 HP, free shipping, and a price of $599. So I just ordered it. I will let you know how it goes after I install it.
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:43 AM   #20
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F.Y.I. I just bought a 2014 GT. Wanted to do a driveshaft too. Was kind of stunned by the prices. But did learn you definitely need a direct bolt in. Not one that requires the removal of the pinion nut and flange. And of course a CV joint. Best deal I found was Shaftmasters. 3.5" tube, CV joint, direct bolt in, rated to 900 HP, free shipping, and a price of $599. So I just ordered it. I will let you know how it goes after I install it.
Where at?

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Old 07-26-2014, 10:38 AM   #21
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One more thing : you already have CAI and a larger TB. In my case, that led me to have slightly too high air:fuel ratio. Not only you need to rev it like hell to get the benefit, but it is not a clear win, as you are a little too rich all along.

On the other hand, the car gets slighly more nervous with the shaft. I did that on other cars, and I loved it !

PS : someone please let me know where to get the light shaft for my 2012 GT, if it can handle 450 pi-lbs (I know, transmission is rated lower than that, but I can probably crank that much torque at peak now). Does anyone have comparative data for the shafts ?
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:09 AM   #22
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I havent done too much research on Shaft Masters over DSS, but it is a lot cheaper and generally speaking people seam to like them. If anyone actually has one installed I am curious to see if there is any vibrations or noise.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:27 PM   #23
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What is the extent of your "research"? What are your criteria? Have you tested every shaft out there with scientific equipment?


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Old 07-26-2014, 06:09 PM   #24
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This is a no brainer, get rid of the 2 piece driveshaft. And yes Bama is at the bottom of the pile for a tune.
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:57 AM   #25
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Talked to. Someone who went to a aluminum one piece and he only picked up half a tenth. Meh gains seem minimal. Definitely not worth 700 bucks.

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Old 07-27-2014, 01:07 AM   #26
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Talked to. Someone who went to a aluminum one piece and he only picked up half a tenth. Meh gains seem minimal. Definitely not worth 700 bucks.

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There's been people who installed a twin turbo 700hp setup and picked up 0.1s in the quarter and tied 0-60mph.

Its the driver mod at work. More efficient delivery of power or even more power mean more emphasis on launching right and additional suspension mod.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:58 AM   #27
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There's been people who installed a twin turbo 700hp setup and picked up 0.1s in the quarter and tied 0-60mph.

Its the driver mod at work. More efficient delivery of power or even more power mean more emphasis on launching right and additional suspension mod.
But for a bolt on n/a car really no point it sounds like

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Old 07-27-2014, 09:48 AM   #28
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But for a bolt on n/a car really no point it sounds like

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Not completely accurate. If the driveshaft is pointless then any performance part by itself is also pointless because its the sum of all the parts that really brings out the performance in vastly noticeable amounts.

And also you said you asked one person and he picked up only half a tenth. There's also many others that have picked up more than that. Try asking around rather than taking that one person's opinion as gospel.

But like I said, its also not what you have its how well you use it: driver mod.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:43 AM   #29
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Not completely accurate. If the driveshaft is pointless then any performance part by itself is also pointless because its the sum of all the parts that really brings out the performance in vastly noticeable amounts.

And also you said you asked one person and he picked up only half a tenth. There's also many others that have picked up more than that. Try asking around rather than taking that one person's opinion as gospel.

But like I said, its also not what you have its how well you use it: driver mod.
Was on an auto car with exhaust and a tune pretty similar to what I have to figure gains would be similar. Maybe more beneficial for power adder or stick cars?

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Old 07-27-2014, 10:50 AM   #30
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Was on an auto car with exhaust and a tune pretty similar to what I have to figure gains would be similar. Maybe more beneficial for power adder or stick cars? Sent from my SM-N900V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
I think what Dallas is trying to say is not to take just ONE persons experience from it (even if it has same mods or not) but rather everyone's experience as a whole! Every car/driver is different even if they have the exact same mods.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:16 AM   #31
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You also have to realize that the weather and track conditions might not have been the same on those two days. That could've effected his times as well.
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:37 PM   #32
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Eeeeeeverybody's a Life Coach these days.

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Old 07-27-2014, 12:40 PM   #33
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Eeeeeeverybody's a Life Coach these days.

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Old 07-27-2014, 01:06 PM   #34
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ok, playing it safe and have just ordered the DSS shaft.

going back to work tomorrow - must pay the extra bucks on this one. More expensive, but also well documented. Peace of mind has a price, +$200 in this case.
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:07 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fax22 View Post
Deciding on my next mod. Narrowed it down to either a one piece aluminum drive shaft or the Boss 302 intake manifold. They both run around the same price so I was just wondering what you guys thought would be more beneficial with what I already have. I know the benefits of both, but I really cant decide. Thanks in advance.

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Good stuff! You've narrowed it down to two pretty awesome mods. I would recommend getting them both at some point. I have personal experience with both of the items you're interested in and honestly don't think you can go wrong. The Boss Manifold will make the car feel a lot stronger up top! I rev my car to 7,600-7,800 all day with the Boss Manifold and a Bama tune. Have never had a single issue. There's thousands of people doing this.

If you had to choose one I'd personally go with the Driveshaft, though. There is no power gains like the Boss Manifold. But you cut down on so much weight/rotating mass which is just as important as power at your current stage. I picked up a few tenths in the 1/4 mile after installation of the DS!

Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any questions or need some assistance! Our Mustang Experts are here Monday-Friday from 9AM-9PM EST and Saturdays from 9AM-5:30PM EST. If you want to hit them up, their number is 866.727.1266. I can also have one of them call you directly.

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