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Old 08-09-2014, 10:21 PM   #36
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So I am about to purchase some lowering springs and shock set by Eibach for my 2013 GT from someone on craigslist but I keep hearing all these horrible stories of people lowering their car and stuff breaks and squeaks down the road.

Is it possible to successfully lower a car without having any issues later on? If so what are the required steps to get there?

Do I need upper and lower control arms if so do they need to be adjustable, do I need a panhard bard does this need to be adjustable? What else do I need to replace before throwing this Eibach set on?

It makes me feel nauseous to do something that could ruin my car later on, and possibly cause an accident.
Tell me it isn't TRUE! Mr. Golden, are you the same person that traded a 2014 V6 for a 2013 V8?

I believed you said you may not understand because you do not own a car that produces a desirable 420hp.

I may only have a 2013 V6 but I can afford NEW parts for my car, something it appears you can't!

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Old 08-09-2014, 10:34 PM   #37
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Tell me it isn't TRUE! Mr. Golden, are you the same person that traded a 2014 V6 for a 2013 V8?

I believed you said you may not understand because you do not own a car that produces a desirable 420hp.

I may only have a 2013 V6 but I can afford NEW parts for my car, something it appears you can't!

not that i cannot afford these parts, i just choose to take advantage of a good deal when i see one.

very unnecessary post, go back to your 305HP forum where you belong.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:10 PM   #38
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Just do it right the first time and don't cheap out. I spent $1,600 on parts and 15-16 hours total in my driveway. I have absolutely no problems nor complaints and all of my parts have a LIFETIME warranty, so if squeaks or problems do arise Steeda will hook me up.

It is possible to lower these Mustangs without hindering other attributes (such as ride quality and roll center) or causing problems down the road.
+1! STEEDA makes a great product. I too, went with STEEDA parts, did the install in April and the ride now is amazing!!!
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:25 AM   #39
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Front shock plates

You will need new front shock plates if you install lowering springs. The stock plates are "one time use" according to Ford. If you reuse them you will get a pleasant clunking sound from them as I can attest to. I will be getting the Steeda plates to fix the issue and be able to set the camber back to stock. The rear end shifts about a half inch to the drivers side so the adjustable panhard bar is needed to fix that, the factory bar is junk anyway.
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:09 AM   #40
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Do guys have any suggested shops here is the San Francisco Bay area that can do work once I buy Steed a Parts
Let me talk to management & see if we can provide a recommendation.

I will let you know as soon as I hear.

Best Regards,

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Old 08-10-2014, 11:23 AM   #41
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You will need new front shock plates if you install lowering springs. The stock plates are "one time use" according to Ford. If you reuse them you will get a pleasant clunking sound from them as I can attest to. I will be getting the Steeda plates to fix the issue and be able to set the camber back to stock. The rear end shifts about a half inch to the drivers side so the adjustable panhard bar is needed to fix that, the factory bar is junk anyway.
can u link me to a shock plate?
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Old 08-10-2014, 11:52 AM   #42
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Let me talk to management & see if we can provide a recommendation.

I will let you know as soon as I hear.

Best Regards,

TJ
Thanks a bunch. I want to get some work done just hard to trust some shops. The ford dealership said they can install but they would charge me both my arms and legs.

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Old 08-10-2014, 11:56 AM   #43
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info shock/strut mount

I plan on getting these:

Steeda 2011-14 Mustang Upper Strut Mounts - Made in the USA 555-8135 - Free Shipping!

I have heard that the factory GT500 plates are an improvement over stock, but not adjustable. New stock plates are $70 each.
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:07 PM   #44
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Thoughts on quality of these?


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Well, they look used. That's not really surprising. For the price it's probably a safe buy, but you have no guarantee as to how much life is left in the struts and shocks...they'll probably last you a good while before it gives you issues though.

As others have stated, a panhard is a very good idea. Compstall has a point though...you can feasibly get away with not doing a panhard if you don't mind having your rear axle kicked out an inch or so to one side. People do it. I wouldn't. It's up to you.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:23 PM   #45
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I spoke to our manager & he knows of two (2) facilities in that area ... a little bit of drive for you:

GTR High Performance or Galpin Performance.

Hope that helps.

Best Regards,

TJ
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:24 PM   #46
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do i need camber plates or strut mounts with the setup i got?
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:20 PM   #47
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So getting springs and a panhard bar would be just fine for now, correct? I'm not planning to track the car or anything like that. I occasionally get revved on but I just go on with my business. I even drive my pony slower then my other cars. People probably think this person has a quick car but drives Hella slow.

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Old 08-11-2014, 12:43 AM   #48
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If you don't do any of that and drive the car as you say you do, why bother

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Old 08-11-2014, 12:51 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgolden30 View Post
do i need camber plates or strut mounts with the setup i got?
From my understanding, they're the same thing. They mount the struts to the shock towers. Some are just more adjustable than others.

Quote:
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So getting springs and a panhard bar would be just fine for now, correct? I'm not planning to track the car or anything like that. I occasionally get revved on but I just go on with my business. I even drive my pony slower then my other cars. People probably think this person has a quick car but drives Hella slow.

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Since you're saying your Mustang is strictly a DD, sounds like you'll want closest-to-factory camber for optimal tire wear. For that, I'd recommend adjustable strut mounts/CC plates and an alignment after installation.

Without them, members have reported they've been able to get a decent alignment, but still a more aggressive one. I went with Steeda's HD strut mounts and was able to get my alignment back on par with the factory's after lowering, no problems.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:46 PM   #50
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Just purchased the BMR adjustable panhard bar from AM...

Excited for its arrival.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:27 PM   #51
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Your rear end May or may not shift. It would probably be best to wait until after the install to get a panhard bar.


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Old 08-12-2014, 06:17 PM   #52
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how much should i pay for someone to install the struts and shocks w/spring?

what is a reasonable cost
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:03 PM   #53
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how much should i pay for someone to install the struts and shocks w/spring?

what is a reasonable cost
If you live here in California, then you might be paying a whole lot more then you want.

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Old 08-12-2014, 10:03 PM   #54
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Prob looking at $200-$300. Performance shops like to charge $110+/hr for labor and I'd say a shop install could take anywhere from 1-2 hours for springs/shocks/struts and then you'll need an alignment which may run $90+.

If you have tools just do them yourself.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:00 AM   #55
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Prob looking at $200-$300. Performance shops like to charge $110+/hr for labor and I'd say a shop install could take anywhere from 1-2 hours for springs/shocks/struts and then you'll need an alignment which may run $90+.

If you have tools just do them yourself.

I wish shops around me would give me a reasonable price. Every place I called was either saying they wouldn't do it or they were going to charge me $400-500 just for a spring install.


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Old 08-13-2014, 12:37 AM   #56
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I installed all of my mods myself so all I know is the hourly labor rates. Maybe its $400+ down here for spring install too, but I wouldn't know. I just took the hourly rate I was told by an owner of a performance shop and took the time it took me minus some time because they have a lift, pro tools, etc. and came up with $200-$300.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:42 AM   #57
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I installed all of my mods myself so all I know is the hourly labor rates. Maybe its $400+ down here for spring install too, but I wouldn't know. I just took the hourly rate I was told by an owner of a performance shop and took the time it took me minus some time because they have a lift, pro tools, etc. and came up with $200-$300.

I've done pretty much most of my mods myself also, I was just reluctant to work on my suspension at first.

Which performance shop are you talking about? I just noticed we're both from BR.


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Old 08-13-2014, 02:55 AM   #58
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Gotcha. Stang Hi.
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:00 AM   #59
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I was just about to ask the same question. I just want to add the Ford Racing Lowering K springs. Is it really that necessary to add a panhard bar?

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Depends on how much the vehicle is lowered. As the body is dropped, the stock panhard bar is going to drop as well, shifting the rear axle over. It can shift 1/2 inch, one inch, or more, making the one rear wheel stick out of the wheel well, while the other one is pushed inward of its wheel well. From a rearward view, this becomes obvious. An adjustable panhard bar pulls the rear axle back to center.
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:35 PM   #60
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Hey guys so I am having these installed right now from the shop and they called to say I am missing 'fine threaded bolts' to install the rear shocks...

Has anyone experienced this before? they said the stock does not have fine-threaded bolts needed for eibach rear shocks install.
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:38 PM   #61
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They can't find bolts? Go get your car outta there quickly.

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