Sway bar relocation bracket issue - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-14-2014, 12:57 PM   #1
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Sway bar relocation bracket issue

Hey guys I'm trying to put on the relocation brackets from steeda and the sway bar hits my lower control arm mount waaaay before the holes will even line up so I can install the bracket. I jacked the car up on the rear end, could that be causing this?
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:20 PM   #2
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Can you take a picture of what you're referring to? Are you talking about the lower control arms or control arm relocation brackets?
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:36 PM   #3
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I got it bolted up but as you can see the sway bar rubs on both sides.

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Old 08-14-2014, 01:39 PM   #4
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I think before I cut the tab off I'm just going to bolt everything up like it is and see if I hear any noises. If I do then I'm going back to stock and just going with 17 inch rims

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Old 08-14-2014, 03:40 PM   #5
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Took it for a drive and I don't hear any clucking or noises and that seems odd because my sway bar is touching the LCA mounting area on driver side. On the passenger side it's a paper thickness from touching.

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Old 08-14-2014, 03:49 PM   #6
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If you're lowered you should be running the control arm relocation brackets anyways. I've never seen this before. Another option would be the rear sway bar from a 2010. It's a little smaller and will bolt right up.

Take a pic showing the whole rear for me so I can see both sides at the same time. That pic is a little tough to see. Also jacking the car up is going to give you a different look. The car needs to be on the ground with all the weight on the rear. If you raise the sway bar up after cutting the bottom portion of the shock mounts off that could also give you your clearance.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
If you're lowered you should be running the control arm relocation brackets anyways. I've never seen this before. Another option would be the rear sway bar from a 2010. It's a little smaller and will bolt right up.

Take a pic showing the whole rear for me so I can see both sides at the same time. That pic is a little tough to see. Also jacking the car up is going to give you a different look. The car needs to be on the ground with all the weight on the rear. If you raise the sway bar up after cutting the bottom portion of the shock mounts off that could also give you your clearance.
Grabber, if I want to lower my car an inch, compared to 1.25 inches, what would I need for either?
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:06 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply grabber5.0. I don't hear any clucking so I'm going to say I picked up some clearance when I put the wheels back on and put her on the floor. I'll be getting LCA's very soon then I think you're right it will come together much better. All this just to fit 15s hahaha. Should have just committed on running 17s on some MTs in the rear. O well.

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Old 08-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangz View Post
Grabber, if I want to lower my car an inch, compared to 1.25 inches, what would I need for either?
Control arm relocation's, possibly. The sway bar relocation brackets are only necessary when wanting to run a 15" wheel.

If you don't care about getting the car to hook on the street or the track you could skip the control arm relocation brackets as well.
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Thanks for the reply grabber5.0. I don't hear any clucking so I'm going to say I picked up some clearance when I put the wheels back on and put her on the floor. I'll be getting LCA's very soon then I think you're right it will come together much better. All this just to fit 15s hahaha. Should have just committed on running 17s on some MTs in the rear. O well.
There are many advantages to running a 15" tire. One is they're cheaper. Two is they will help much more with getting the car to hook. And three they will provide a better ride. Here's what mine looks like for point of reference.
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