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Old 09-09-2014, 08:46 PM   #36
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Let me clarify junk for high hp cars thay see the dragstrip.

Daily driver cars it works for,
It's just one of those things. Whiteline was not built for hight hp drag cats

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Old 09-09-2014, 08:49 PM   #37
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And the same goes for there relocation brackets

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Old 09-09-2014, 08:57 PM   #38
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Yeah bought em a while back. I'm re-doing my suspension this weekend


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Your fine bud, you will be 100 % satisfied

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:00 PM   #39
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Yeah I'm excited, although idk how much the BMR LCAs will do since I've still got the stock 7.5" rear. There isn't too much back and forth wheel hop with the open diff


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Old 09-09-2014, 09:04 PM   #40
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That whiteline UCA sure does look thin and cheap. Glad I went BMR for that.


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Old 09-09-2014, 09:06 PM   #41
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How's the J&M upper fair??


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Old 09-09-2014, 09:10 PM   #42
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How's the J&M upper fair??


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Can't give any advice on that one. Never seen or heard anyone with it I'm sure it will be more than good for you.

I use the JPC upper

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:12 PM   #43
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Hey Beast-Before anything is purchased have you had them looked at locally just to get a second opinion? We're reluctant to advise buying a part to solve/cure a per-existing condition as great as BMR as!

Alex
The shop that did the install could not get the noise to come on and it only happens early AM hours or if its slightly colder. I am not sure its the problem but I want to get rid of the wheel hop any way so if I do buy a set of LCA's i really hope it will fix the problem but if not I at least got rid of my wheel hop. I also want some that are not TOOO harsh and stiffen up the ride and make NVH and not a comfortable drive. Here is a short YouTube video of the noise that I am getting. Let me know what you think!

Car squeeking noise - YouTube
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:14 PM   #44
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Y'all think a regular alignment shop could readjust my front camber with my Eibach bolts and readjust my pinion angle and dial in my adjustable panhard bar after I lower it?


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Old 09-10-2014, 01:47 AM   #45
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Yeah I just picked up a set of those!! I'm not sure what's different about them for them to be cheaper though Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
I spoke with Kelly from BMR. He told me the $90 ones were made with a lighter material & different weld types but they will hold up to anything u can throw at them!
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:50 AM   #46
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The whiteline did have a recall because a lot of people were breaking them at the drag strip! Supposedly the recall fixed it but I really wouldn't trust it at the drag strip! For DD & other applications u should be fine tho!
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:49 AM   #47
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Good thing I went with BMR and Steeda

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Old 09-10-2014, 08:07 AM   #48
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Y'all think a regular alignment shop could readjust my front camber with my Eibach bolts and readjust my pinion angle and dial in my adjustable panhard bar after I lower it?
First part, yes, camber bolts are easy to adjust. Pinion angle, you will need an adjustable UCA if you go -2", panhard will center your rear end. Anyone can do that.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:01 AM   #49
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Camber can be adjusted with just a straight edge and digital level. Pinion angle gets adjusted with an upper control arm.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:55 AM   #50
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Yeah I've got an adjustable upper I just don't know what to set it at


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Old 09-10-2014, 10:46 AM   #51
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It depends on if you're lowered or not and which hole you have it in.. Another factor would be what your lower control arm relocations brackets are set to.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:54 AM   #52
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It depends on if you're lowered or not and which hole you have it in.. Another factor would be what your lower control arm relocations brackets are set to.

Grabber, for best traction the LCA's should be as "parallel" to the ground as possible correct? I have mine in the middle hole, which gets it pretty close to parallel (BMR), but they're in a slight upward angle towards the rear end. Would that of affected my launches at the track negatively?


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Old 09-10-2014, 11:01 AM   #53
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Everyone will say the same thing for a baseline

Top hole- stock height
Middle - lowered up to a 1.5
Bottom - more than a 1.5

Truth be told, only you will know where they need to be. With some time at the track will tell you where YOU need them.

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Old 09-10-2014, 11:05 AM   #54
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Everyone will say the same thing for a baseline

Top hole- stock height
Middle - lowered up to a 1.5
Bottom - more than a 1.5

Truth be told, only you will know where they need to be. With some time at the track will tell you where YOU need them.

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Yeah Rap, that's what I was told so that's what I went with. I know the stock crap pirellis were more the issue than my LCA's and brackets. I have 1.5 springs but I'm almost positive they've settled a little lower than that. I can barely fit a finger in the back. That actually worries me about next year for purchasing wider wheels/tires. Thanks for the reply, I wasn't sure if someone had a definitive answer on that.


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Old 09-10-2014, 11:08 AM   #55
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[ QUOTE=Grabber Blue5.0;2086078]It depends on if you're lowered or not and which hole you have it in.. Another factor would be what your lower control arm relocations brackets are set to.[/QUOTE]


Yeah I'm putting on the SR 1.5" springs and I've got Whiteline lower relocation brackets with BMR LCAs and a J&M upper with the stock bracket and a J&M adj panhard bar. None of this has been installed yet.



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Old 09-10-2014, 11:13 AM   #56
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What brand of LCA's should I get

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[ QUOTE=Grabber Blue5.0;2086078]It depends on if you're lowered or not and which hole you have it in.. Another factor would be what your lower control arm relocations brackets are set to.



I have the SR springs as well with an SR adj panhard rod, SR LCA's, BMR relo's, BMR fixed UCA with bracket, and koni str.t's all around. I expected better than a 13.013 @ 108.44 with a 2.068 60ft even with the crap pirellis.

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Old 09-10-2014, 02:31 PM   #57
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I like my Steeda LCA's they look great and work well with no noises.

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Old 09-10-2014, 02:46 PM   #58
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I like my Steeda LCA's they look great and work well with no noises.

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All sorts of noises have started since I put my Steeda LCAs on last weekend. They kind of sound like RRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRR then like a sqqquuueeeeeeee and then there is smoke everywhere. Is that normal?

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Old 09-10-2014, 04:05 PM   #59
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All sorts of noises have started since I put my Steeda LCAs on last weekend. They kind of sound like RRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRR then like a sqqquuueeeeeeee and then there is smoke everywhere. Is that normal?

Yep totally normal

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Old 09-10-2014, 04:31 PM   #60
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Grabber, for best traction the LCA's should be as "parallel" to the ground as possible correct? I have mine in the middle hole, which gets it pretty close to parallel (BMR), but they're in a slight upward angle towards the rear end. Would that of affected my launches at the track negatively?
Generally you want them fairly level if on street tires or a crappy drag radial. If you run a good radial they can be slightly lower towards the axle side. But if you're on a street tire it will "hit" the tires to hard.

If the control arms are higher at the axle end like it sounds like yours are that's not good.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:33 PM   #61
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Generally you want them fairly level if on street tires or a crappy drag radial. If you run a good radial they can be slightly lower towards the axle side. But if you're on a street tire it will "hit" the tires to hard.

If the control arms are higher at the axle end like it sounds like yours are that's not good.

I'll have to grab a picture. It's ever so slightly angled upwards. I think if I raised it, it would be far from parallel. I'm not saying you're wrong, hell I hope you're right and maybe I'll get better launches one hole up. Is that what you're recommending? One hole up?


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Old 09-10-2014, 09:40 PM   #62
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Here's a crappy pic I just snagged while at work. That's level ground, and you can see the slight slope. That's the middle hole like I said.


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