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Old 09-09-2014, 07:34 AM   #1
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Looking to build up my motor

was looking to get a little insight on this subject, as i'm 100% new to it and don't want to be looking at things I don't need etc.

at some point in time, I would like to supercharge my car, but I want to build up the motor and trans first instead of waiting for things to break...

I've been looking online at different parts and wanted to get others takes that have done some work on these cars. i'd still want it to be daily driveable, but in the 800-900 range of hp (if that's possible)

any and all info/suggestions is appreciated
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:39 AM   #2
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car is a 2014 GT auto base model
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:37 AM   #3
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Here is a base list of things you will need:

Boss 302 Forged Crankshaft
Forged H Beam Rods w/ARP bolts
Forged Pistons / Rings
Rod and Main Bearings
Billet Oil Pump Gears
ARP Bolts & Studs
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:58 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Deerslayer View Post
Here is a base list of things you will need:

Boss 302 Forged Crankshaft
Forged H Beam Rods w/ARP bolts
Forged Pistons / Rings
Rod and Main Bearings
Billet Oil Pump Gears
ARP Bolts & Studs
thanks for the list

what are the benefits of getting other blocks, made by BBR or MMR etc
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:22 AM   #5
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The Boss crankshaft is not needed. The stock Coyote crank is the same thing. Just weighted different for the different rods/ pistons

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:23 AM   #6
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You will also need a return style fuel system for 800-900

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:56 AM   #7
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I'm in the same boat and I was recommended this

mmr has a pretty good deal on forged short block brand new with a 1yr warranty for 3500.
Brand new Torque Plate Bored and Honed 5.0 Block
New Forged BOSS 302 Crankshaft
New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) I-beam Rods, these rods are
shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched
New Manley Forged Piston in High or low compression for supercharger or turbo
Total Seal Piston Rings File fit to your application
Clevite Performance Rod and Main Bearings
Fully assembled, digitally balanced and inspected by 2 technicians
1 year warranty

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Old 09-09-2014, 11:06 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by steven7010 View Post
I'm in the same boat and I was recommended this

mmr has a pretty good deal on forged short block brand new with a 1yr warranty for 3500.
Brand new Torque Plate Bored and Honed 5.0 Block
New Forged BOSS 302 Crankshaft
New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) I-beam Rods, these rods are
shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched
New Manley Forged Piston in High or low compression for supercharger or turbo
Total Seal Piston Rings File fit to your application
Clevite Performance Rod and Main Bearings
Fully assembled, digitally balanced and inspected by 2 technicians
1 year warranty

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what's that running you
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:17 AM   #9
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I think he said 3500, as in $3,500.
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:19 AM   #10
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Then you still need other things. So all in all its the same price as building your stock block.
And it's the exact same thing.

Plus diamond pistons or wiseco is the way to go.

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Old 09-09-2014, 01:39 PM   #11
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what's that running you
There's alot more u can add to it here I'll give u the link for me I haven't talk to them yet to see what I need


http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/2011_parts.htm

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Old 09-09-2014, 02:21 PM   #12
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Then you still need other things. So all in all its the same price as building your stock block.
And it's the exact same thing.

Plus diamond pistons or wiseco is the way to go.

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I haven't done the math on it yet but the short block thicker?

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:15 PM   #13
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thanks
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:31 PM   #14
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At least about $12-15,000 with motor to handle that kind of power reliably. Question becomes are YOU financially prepared...
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:33 PM   #15
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At least about $12-15,000 with motor to handle that kind of power reliably. Question becomes are YOU financially prepared...
Won't cost that much for a fully forged motor.

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:43 PM   #16
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Won't cost that much for a fully forged motor.

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Isn't fully forged like 5k?
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:44 PM   #17
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Isn't fully forged like 5k?
More like 6 for top of the line stuff.

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:21 PM   #18
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More like 6 for top of the line stuff.

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Where the best place to get the kit also where's the best place to get the short block. link it if u can because I can't find nothing plus I don't know what I'm looking for ?I'm just trying to get a estimate about how much I need

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:22 PM   #19
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Where the bist place to get the kit also where's the best plastic to get the short block link it if u can because I can't find nothing plus I don't know what I'm looking for ?

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Slowwwwww down. Lmao.

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:22 PM   #20
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Slowwwwww down. Lmao.

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Lol stupid phone

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:24 PM   #21
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Look at MMR.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....ile_detect.htm

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:29 PM   #22
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Look at MMR.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....ile_detect.htm

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Yea i saw them but I been told that I need a ford sportsman block and I can't find that sh.#/$ no where even some say go with Diamond pistons I have no no idea what to look for

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:33 PM   #23
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Yea i saw them but I been told that I need a ford sportsman block and I can't find that sh.#/$ no where even some say go with Diamond pistons I have no no idea what to look for

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The stock block is more than good enough. It's all you need. The same as the stock crank.

I have diamond pistons


http://www.lethalperformance.com/sho...istons/diamond

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:34 PM   #24
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The stock block is more than good enough. It's all you need. The same as the stock crank.

I have diamond pistons


http://www.lethalperformance.com/sho...istons/diamond

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You did a lot of work y didn't u stroke the motor while u had it tore down

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:35 PM   #25
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You did a lot of work y didn't u stroke the motor while u had it tore down

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No need for it

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:38 PM   #26
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No need for it

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You know that's what I was thinking I mean if u can get 800hp on twin turbo and and reliable forge kit it's just a wast of time unless u trying to get 2000 hp but let me ask u don't the short block have thicker walls wouldn't that be safer ?

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:42 PM   #27
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You know that's what I was thinking I mean if u can get 800hp on twin turbo and and reliable forge kit it's just a wast of time unless u trying to get 2000 hp but let me ask u don't the short block have thicker walls wouldn't that be safer ?

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Mmr got 2,000 + out of there 5.0. Still a 302.

And there block does not have thicker walls, it's the same thing as a factory block. The pro mod block is just sleeved.


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Old 09-09-2014, 10:46 PM   #28
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Mmr got 2,000 + out of there 5.0. Still a 302.

And there block does not have thicker walls, it's the same thing as a factory block. The pro mod block is just sleeved.


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Oh ok so u telling me if I get the reforge kit I'm going to be safe at 800rwhp ? Well with the motor that is?

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Old 09-09-2014, 10:51 PM   #29
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Oh ok so u telling me if I get the reforge kit I'm going to be safe at 800rwhp ? Well with the motor that is?

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Yes. With billet oil gears, and full arp hardware. And some good valve springs.

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Old 09-10-2014, 04:11 AM   #30
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^ and your only slightly making more than a built NA e85 coyote. 620 is flywheel bc there is no way your making 620 at the tires at 5psi with the edlebrock blower.

And gt500 comment does not bold water either.

You have alot to learn. 40 and acting Ollie gladiatoro

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---------- Post added at 04:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 AM ----------

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Old 09-10-2014, 08:06 AM   #31
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I guess my question is why 800-900HP on a GT? I have never seen a "streetable" car with double its base HP, nor one that could ever pass emissions (if applicable). Ford racing will be the first to tell you that 700HP on a boosted GT coyote engine is -max- output..period. Dont get too attached to the car as it wont last long with HP levels above that.

It seems counter-intuitive to try and take a base 420 HP car and double it SAFELY. Swapping out engine internals, labor, parts and ultra high boost levels is a recipe for a very short engine life and big time wasted $$$'s.

Ive had a 3rd party tuned Edelbrock S/C now for about 2 months on my 2013 GT. 620HP, TONS of low end torque, instant response, only 5PSI boost and extremely drivable. All of this for $5800 on a stock engine. You can take it to 8PSI with a few internals and get 700HP, not worth it IMO. Will I beat a 800-900HP mustang in a pissing match, heck no...but I'd bet my car is still running 3-4 years longer. Not all of us having money flying out our ***, would be nice though!

(my immature side) I have yet to get beat in a street "race", ran neck and neck with a brand new corvette, smoke beamers with regularity and (the best part) its a blast to drive. Street Outlaws" on the discovery channel isnt reality for the majority of us nor myself however.

By the time you've spent a FORTUNE upgrading a car with no business having that much HP, you could instead buy a GT500 that ACTUALLY has all the parts in place, has a warantee and will get you there far more safely. Paying more up front will be cheaper that buying new engines every few years.

Take it from a guy thats almost 40 (yeesh) and lived around a motor head father, you dont want to go down that path! Hope this helps.
a friend of mine daily and races her 1000hp twin turbo gt...ive read articles of people daily driving over 1000hp all the time. why wouldn't I be able to daily 800?
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:08 AM   #32
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^ and your only slightly making more than a built NA e85 coyote. 620 is flywheel bc there is no way your making 620 at the tires at 5psi with the edlebrock blower.

And gt500 comment does not bold water either.

You have alot to learn. 40 and acting Ollie gladiatoro

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I Live in south carolina where there is no emissions check. I want 700rwhp and the option to boost it to 800hp or more if I'm correct u can do that on a turbo set up with a push of a button supercharger I don't think u can.i have been married 2 times and lost over 20k so that money doesn't go to nothing.i have a job that's paying ok for me.the gt500 is a great car but why pay 35k or more for a used car and change it all around body style that is and motor when I can get a gt for 26k and make my car anyway I won't and still have more hp than a gt500 with way more money in my pocket.im not going to take my car to the drag stip every weekend and I don't even speed lol.im looking for the most reliable 5.0 700rwhp motor I can get also I don't owe but 6k more on the car and I owe 50k more on my house now I can pay my house off if I want but why I will just add to the house later more money.im 37 years old and my dream is to have a 5.0 with 700 or more hp.so any help with be appreciated with my build

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Old 09-10-2014, 09:26 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by WileECoyoteGT View Post
I guess my question is why 800-900HP on a GT? I have never seen a "streetable" car with double its base HP, nor one that could ever pass emissions (if applicable). Ford racing will be the first to tell you that 700HP on a boosted GT coyote engine is -max- output..period. Dont get too attached to the car as it wont last long with HP levels above that.

It seems counter-intuitive to try and take a base 420 HP car and double it SAFELY. Swapping out engine internals, labor, parts and ultra high boost levels is a recipe for a very short engine life and big time wasted $$$'s.

Ive had a 3rd party tuned Edelbrock S/C now for about 2 months on my 2013 GT. 620HP, TONS of low end torque, instant response, only 5PSI boost and extremely drivable. All of this for $5800 on a stock engine. You can take it to 8PSI with a few internals and get 700HP, not worth it IMO. Will I beat a 800-900HP mustang in a pissing match, heck no...but I'd bet my car is still running 3-4 years longer. Not all of us having money flying out our ***, would be nice though!

(my immature side) I have yet to get beat in a street "race", ran neck and neck with a brand new corvette, smoke beamers with regularity and (the best part) its a blast to drive. Street Outlaws" on the discovery channel isnt reality for the majority of us nor myself however.

By the time you've spent a FORTUNE upgrading a car with no business having that much HP, you could instead buy a GT500 that ACTUALLY has all the parts in place, has a warantee and will get you there far more safely. Paying more up front will be cheaper that buying new engines every few years.

Take it from a guy thats almost 40 (yeesh) and lived around a motor head father, you dont want to go down that path! Hope this helps.
and who said anything about having money out their ***? you just sat here and said why would I spend money getting to a high hp number and then suggested I go out and buy a $50k+ vehicle...really?

and for the record, i'd much rather build a car up than walk into a dealership and buy something close to it. that's the whole point of this.

and that warranty on the Shelby you speak of goes out the window the second I tune and install headers ect to get into the higher hp numbers...so nothing you said helped me
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:06 PM   #34
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Wouldn't say there is a such thing as a unsafe hp for a DD.

Bc a 700hp+ car is verry streetable. Same with 1400

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Old 09-10-2014, 04:55 PM   #35
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Well idk how its bad advice. When I have had more than one car making 600+ and be 100% streetable. Nitrous and supercharged.

I bought my 5.0 with the plan of dropping $40,000 + in it. Already well passed 20k.
Built not bought.
My car is 100% streetable. Only downside is I can not fill up at any gas station.




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