Roush TVS 2300 pulley sizes. - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-23-2014, 12:33 PM   #1
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Roush TVS 2300 pulley sizes.

I'm looking to change the pulley size on my roush charger. It comes with an 85mm stock. I want to know if I change it to a 79mm or 75mm for more boost will I need a new tune or fuel upgrades? Or can I just throw on the 79mm and go? Thanks


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Old 09-23-2014, 01:06 PM   #2
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What is your goal for the car? Are you currently running the stock Roush phase 1 tune? Stock airbox or Cold air intake?


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Old 09-23-2014, 01:10 PM   #3
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Yes it's the stock phase 1 with 85mm pulley with the stock airbox.


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Old 09-23-2014, 01:19 PM   #4
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You have a ton of options, that's why I asked what you goal is for the car. The first thing to be done is to get a tune which will make the biggest difference and of course the tune that you choose is built around what pulley you have or want to upgrade to and whether or not you are sticking with the airbox or going to a cold air intake.

With only minor mods (and I can explain further once I have more info) you will not need any fuel system upgrades but it doesn't take much before you need to go that route and upgrade the fuel system for safety.

If you plan ahead for what your goals are for the car it will save you a lot of headache down the road to make sure you are doing the correct mods.

-Cameron


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2013 Roush Stage 3 M6 Roush CAI, 82mm pulley, ID1000's, KB BAP, Vossen CV3 20x9-20x10.5, Michelin Pilot SS, Lethal O/R X, GT500 axleback, Barton Shifter with 2-post bracket, Clutch Line Upgrade, Boss Trans Cooler, Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, BMR Driveshaft Loop, Whiteline Trans Bushing, BMR LCA's with Relo Brackets, Adjustable Panhard Bar, GT500 STB, Steeda X-Brace, Steeda rear sway, JLT Oil Separator, GT500 Diff Cover, Afco Heat Exchanger, 170* T-stat, Tint, RP Fluids, aeroforce interceptors///688rwhp 605lb/ft torque cornfed
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:27 PM   #5
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Ok that makes sense so when I want to go get my car dyno tuned I should just have all the mods I want ready so they can tune for thos specific mods I want on.


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Old 09-23-2014, 01:44 PM   #6
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My opinion would be to chose a company you want to work with for your tuning such as VMP Tuning, Brenspeed, AED, John Lund with Lethal Performance etc... Once you have done that, set your power goals and what mods you want and either buy a supercharger upgrade package which will include the parts and the tune or start building your own setup and those companies will build you a tune for the car. Most of those companies, Brenspeed for sure, will modify your tune for you for free as long as you buy the parts from them.

In my case, I started with just a Brenspeed tune only and then later I pieced together what is ultimately their 710R package which includes an 82mm pulley, Roush cold air intake, Kenne Belle boost-a-pump for the fuel system, and after that I added one step colder spark plugs and ID1000 fuel injectors.

Brenspeed or any of those companies will provide you with a great tune to go with whatever mods you choose. Once I am done modding my car (which I am pretty much there now because of the limitations of the stock internals) I will be taking my car to AED, which is pretty close to me, for a final dyno tune to really dial everything in and make sure everything is perfect along with getting my horsepower and torque numbers.

-Cameron


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Old 09-23-2014, 01:55 PM   #7
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So you just told the company what you had on the car and they made you a tune for the specific mods you have? Or did you take it to a dyno tuner every time to get it tuned? Like if I went with vmp for example, if just tell I have a TVS 2300 and cat back exhaust, and I want a smaller pully with headers they can make that tune and send it to me without putting my car on the dyno?


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Old 09-23-2014, 02:13 PM   #8
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Yes that's correct. Not everybody has a reputable mustang tuner near them so there are options. Just because a random local shop says they can dyno tune doesn't mean they know what they are doing with these cars.

Brenspeed will build you a tune for whatever mods you have or whatever mods you add later free of charge as long as you buy the parts from them. You of course have to buy the initial tune from them as well.

VMP Tuning and John Lund, also two of the best in the business will also build your tune based on your mods and they can update as you add more mods. Both of those companies, as well as AED, also offer remote tuning which means they will send you a baseline tune for your car and after you install it you will drive the car data logging the cars computer using your laptop. You will then email the data log back to them and they will make any necessary minor adjustments to dial everything in.

The dyno tune can be done if you choose once all of your mods are complete, but if you don't have a reputable mustang tuner near you then I would recommend sticking with the tunes from any of the mentioned companies.

-Cameron


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Old 09-23-2014, 02:16 PM   #9
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Ohhh ok! Thanks for the help you answered all my questions!


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Old 09-23-2014, 02:22 PM   #10
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Glad I could help... Let me know if you need anything else


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2013 Roush Stage 3 M6 Roush CAI, 82mm pulley, ID1000's, KB BAP, Vossen CV3 20x9-20x10.5, Michelin Pilot SS, Lethal O/R X, GT500 axleback, Barton Shifter with 2-post bracket, Clutch Line Upgrade, Boss Trans Cooler, Dynotech Aluminum Driveshaft, BMR Driveshaft Loop, Whiteline Trans Bushing, BMR LCA's with Relo Brackets, Adjustable Panhard Bar, GT500 STB, Steeda X-Brace, Steeda rear sway, JLT Oil Separator, GT500 Diff Cover, Afco Heat Exchanger, 170* T-stat, Tint, RP Fluids, aeroforce interceptors///688rwhp 605lb/ft torque cornfed
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:56 PM   #11
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Personally if you're running 93 octane I wouldn't run anything lower than an 82mm pulley. We pushed our car to 651RWHP and 555TQ on the 82, we dialed it back down to 635 as its more of a street car than anything. That tune was done by pro dyno. VMP or Lund is the by far the best for the TVS (as already mentioned above). For an 82mm pulley and wanting to push anything about 620ish RWHP I would opt for at least ID725's, a BAP, JLT Intake (increase boost by close to 1lbs). I would also remove your cats, more as a safety measure but also more power.
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:44 PM   #12
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Liston to Jason,he knows what he's talking about.

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Old 09-23-2014, 09:12 PM   #13
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I agree with everything Jayman said in addition to our earlier conversation. 600ish RWHP on pump gas is a good goal to set and seems to be the "safe" threshold for stock internals. You can always take these cars way beyond that point but the further you go and you are on borrowed time so keep that in mind unless you forge the internals.

There is also the option of switching the car to E85 ethanol which will safely net you an additional 60 or so rear wheel horsepower however you will need even bigger injectors and a boost-a-pump for the fuel system.

-Cameron


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Old 09-24-2014, 04:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camron502 View Post
I agree with everything Jayman said in addition to our earlier conversation. 600ish RWHP on pump gas is a good goal to set and seems to be the "safe" threshold for stock internals. You can always take these cars way beyond that point but the further you go and you are on borrowed time so keep that in mind unless you forge the internals.

There is also the option of switching the car to E85 ethanol which will safely net you an additional 60 or so rear wheel horsepower however you will need even bigger injectors and a boost-a-pump for the fuel system.

-Cameron


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Yep, I agree. 600RWHP is a good safe goal. Keep in mind of all the supporting mods outside of the engine bay that you'll need for that power.
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