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Old 10-01-2014, 04:52 AM   #36
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There's only "one" upper control arm.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:41 AM   #37
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So is it safe to say that with those springs, you might not need to change the upper control arms?

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Correct, 3rd link = 1 UCA. You should be able to get away with not upgrading the UCA, a stiffer/ stronger bushing will help stiffen the rear a bit.
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Old 10-01-2014, 10:05 AM   #38
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I did all FRPP parts 1.5" drop and Adj panhard LCA relo brackets and arms only thing I did not touch is the UCA haven't had a moments issue and no wheel hop. Pinion angle was fine. Done at a professional shop I don't have the time for self installs however I wish I did but it is what it is.
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Old 10-01-2014, 12:06 PM   #39
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I did all FRPP parts 1.5" drop and Adj panhard LCA relo brackets and arms only thing I did not touch is the UCA haven't had a moments issue and no wheel hop. Pinion angle was fine. Done at a professional shop I don't have the time for self installs however I wish I did but it is what it is.
I like the setup. I love the stock Brembo wheels, so that's the stance and look that I want.

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Old 10-01-2014, 12:30 PM   #40
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Did the lcas help you any? With handling


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Old 10-01-2014, 03:08 PM   #41
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yes they are adjustable allot of people do not use adj LCA I only went with what was suggested to me to obtain the look and handling I wanted so that is what I did again no issues not squirrely with TC off, or advanced TC off but with it totally disabled (when you hold down for 5 seconds to disable) it is a quite handful like that.
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Old 10-01-2014, 03:57 PM   #42
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I did all FRPP parts 1.5" drop and Adj panhard LCA relo brackets and arms only thing I did not touch is the UCA haven't had a moments issue and no wheel hop. Pinion angle was fine. Done at a professional shop I don't have the time for self installs however I wish I did but it is what it is.
Your pinion angle is not fine if you didn't address the upper control arm. Trust me.
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:40 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Your pinion angle is not fine if you didn't address the upper control arm. Trust me.

Grabber, which hole is preferred on the BMR bracket? Nobody answered me when I asked earlier.


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Old 10-01-2014, 05:18 PM   #44
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Grabber, which hole is preferred on the BMR bracket? Nobody answered me when I asked earlier.
The upper control arm? Upper hole if you're lowered. Hole closest to the body of the car.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:27 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
The upper control arm? Upper hole if you're lowered. Hole closest to the body of the car.

Ok, I have it right. I got the UCA and bracket before I lowered so I pretty much based it off the OEM unit.


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Old 10-01-2014, 05:44 PM   #46
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Your pinion angle is not fine if you didn't address the upper control arm. Trust me.

It's at -2.3 degrees I think that is well within range, if not guess I will be replacing the rear end one day.
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:42 PM   #47
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What should the pinion angle be when lowered ?


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Old 10-02-2014, 04:26 PM   #48
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What should the pinion angle be when lowered ?


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Negative 2 degrees from what I understand.

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Old 10-02-2014, 04:33 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCali5oh View Post
What should the pinion angle be when lowered ?
As a starting point Autos want -1 to -2 degrees and manuals want -2 to -3 degrees.
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:13 PM   #50
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Try to stay -2 degrees on the pinion angle. If you're looking at replacing shocks, struts, and springs, then go with coilovers, unless you're planning on drag racing. Coilovers for the most part tend to have higher spring rates than lowering springs. You can go with eibach or KW. I actually damaged my driveshaft from not replacing my UCA, once I got my driveshaft replaced, I went with a Steeda adj. UCA and UCA mounting bracket. I mostly do autocross on my 5.0 and the UCA made a big difference in terms of making it more predictable on and off throttle.
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:32 AM   #51
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Try to stay -2 degrees on the pinion angle. If you're looking at replacing shocks, struts, and springs, then go with coilovers, unless you're planning on drag racing. Coilovers for the most part tend to have higher spring rates than lowering springs. You can go with eibach or KW. I actually damaged my driveshaft from not replacing my UCA, once I got my driveshaft replaced, I went with a Steeda adj. UCA and UCA mounting bracket. I mostly do autocross on my 5.0 and the UCA made a big difference in terms of making it more predictable on and off throttle.
So do you think if I went with coilovers instead of shocks struts and springs, it's okay to go without the UCA?

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Old 10-03-2014, 08:34 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
As a starting point Autos want -1 to -2 degrees.
Does it matter how low you go...

ie for an auto:
if you're lowered 1" you need like -1 degree
lowered 1.5" closer to -2 degrees

I always see all this crap like it depends on the car, etc.. etc.
Well, I think that just means noone has taken the time to figure out things properly for the variations in ride height based on cars weight & springs, etc. sure different cars with different options weigh different weight, sure some springs "settle" a little more than others over time, etc..

But if you took the ground to rear fender measurement and said stock "ride height" should be approx. 29.5"+- 1/4",

when lowered if your ride height is
28.5 you need -1 degree...
28.0 = -2
27.5 = -3
etc.
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Old 10-03-2014, 09:14 AM   #53
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So do you think if I went with coilovers instead of shocks struts and springs, it's okay to go without the UCA?

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Depends on how much you decide to lower your car. I'd definitely get a UCA.


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Old 10-03-2014, 09:51 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c_rizzle View Post
Does it matter how low you go...

ie for an auto:
if you're lowered 1" you need like -1 degree
lowered 1.5" closer to -2 degrees

I always see all this crap like it depends on the car, etc.. etc.
Well, I think that just means noone has taken the time to figure out things properly for the variations in ride height based on cars weight & springs, etc. sure different cars with different options weigh different weight, sure some springs "settle" a little more than others over time, etc..

But if you took the ground to rear fender measurement and said stock "ride height" should be approx. 29.5"+- 1/4",

when lowered if your ride height is
28.5 you need -1 degree...
28.0 = -2
27.5 = -3
etc.
Yes it does matter how low you go. I just gave a starting point not the end all be all.
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:24 PM   #55
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What do yall consider would be the best suspension parts for the price. I don't want to go cheap but then yet I'm not trying to win shows or go tracking. I just want it to look good and stay reliable.

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Old 10-05-2014, 08:26 PM   #56
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What do yall consider would be the best suspension parts for the price. I don't want to go cheap but then yet I'm not trying to win shows or go tracking. I just want it to look good and stay reliable.

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My opinion would be anything BMR. Steeda as well.


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Old 10-05-2014, 09:58 PM   #57
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UPR products, good quality and affordable. I have replaced some Hotchkis part with UPR, wish I had just gone with UPR from the get go.
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:55 PM   #58
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Your pinion angle is not fine if you didn't address the upper control arm. Trust me.
Can't the pinion angle be adjusted with adjustable LCA, (from maxium motorsport that I bought used ) without changing the UCA? ( also bought used Hotchiks, but crap, now that you guys are saying that is makes bigtime noise, I won't install it)
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Old 10-06-2014, 07:16 PM   #59
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Can't the pinion angle be adjusted with adjustable LCA, (from maxium motorsport that I bought used ) without changing the UCA? ( also bought used Hotchiks, but crap, now that you guys are saying that is makes bigtime noise, I won't install it)
No it can't. And I wouldn't use adjustable lower control arms.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:05 PM   #60
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This is the setup I would like to buy, but I am afraid is going to be too low and scrape the road. What are your thoughts? Is this is a right setup? I don't drag race, it is just a DD.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:24 PM   #61
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My BMR relo's scrape quite a bit even on a slightly uneven road. Happened twice yesterday, quite annoying lol. Pay to play!


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Old 10-06-2014, 09:33 PM   #62
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Check out Ground Controls kit as well. Not cheap but a great value. And built with specially valved Koni Yellow shocks with a lifetime warranty.
Note that after lowering my car with new springs I found that a 1.5 inch lower rear left too little suspension and my car was on hitting the softer Ford Racing bump stops too often even with the Koni Yellows. So now I am doing the job over and will sell my springs and strut mounts.
The Ground Controls kit will let you set the height were you want it; then reset it if you find you want a different height. A little bit more money now will be well spent. There springs are packaged in different weights based on how you state you will be using the car. The springs are also standard coilover type springs that changed to stiffer or softer at a reasonable cost and huge selection. I wish I had done their kit first.
Whatever you do read carefully. IMO Koni is the way to go unless spending far more on high end coilovers; regardless of the springs you pick.
I am also a huge fan of the Watts Link vs Panhard Bar. Mine is a Fays. If you stay with a Panhard Bar don't order a replacement until you have installed your new suspension as you may find the axle is acceptably centered without spending more on a new one. Don't forget with a PB the body center moves over the axle slightly anyway do the the way the PB works.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:40 PM   #63
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This is the setup I would like to buy, but I am afraid is going to be too low and scrape the road. What are your thoughts? Is this is a right setup? I don't drag race, it is just a DD.
Just a daily driver? ..... your list is way over the top. Just get a good set of springs and Koni SR.T dampers and save a small fortune. Try something like the Steeda Sports. This will transform your car for street driving and maintain a reasonable and comfortable ride height.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:52 PM   #64
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Just a daily driver? ..... your list is way over the top. Just get a good set of springs and Koni SR.T dampers and save a small fortune. Try something like the Steeda Sports. This will transform your car for street driving and maintain a reasonable and comfortable ride height.

This ^. It's what I did. Love it. Don't love scraping though lol


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Old 10-07-2014, 04:33 PM   #65
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What springs are the lowest I can go without scraping? 1.25 or 1"?
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:31 PM   #66
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What springs are the lowest I can go without scraping? 1.25 or 1"?

I only scraped because I was forced to go down an unevenly paved road. I'm dropped 1.5" and haven't had any issues besides that one incident. It's all in how you drive, your area (if there's crap roads), and angles. It can be done.


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Old 10-07-2014, 08:18 PM   #67
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What do yall consider would be the best suspension parts for the price. I don't want to go cheap but then yet I'm not trying to win shows or go tracking. I just want it to look good and stay reliable.
We have discount codes available on Steeda Manufactured Products ... you can email me or private message me at tim@steeda.com.

Best Regards,

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Old 10-07-2014, 09:11 PM   #68
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Hey dentman, what are your wheel and tire specs?

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This is the look you will get with 1.5 drop all ford racing stuff , no upper and lower control arms yet those will be installed next week getting the arms from steeda aluminum Attachment 167045Attachment 167046


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Old 10-07-2014, 09:36 PM   #69
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What springs are the lowest I can go without scraping? 1.25 or 1"?
Depends on where you're driving. If you daily drive your car on a mix of roads, including bad roads you probably don't want to go 1.5". If you live in a place with great roads or your car is mostly a track day car, etc... drop it 1.5"+ and you'll be fine. I think 1.0 to 1.25" is the best compromise. It is quite substantial from stock.

The problem is the lower you go, the stiffer you really need to be to limit bottoming out, but then your ride quality suffers. So its a trade off. Some kits try to stay soft at 1.5", but then you're bottoming out on the jounce bumpers all the time.

Personally, I think 1" or 1.25" kits you get most of the benefits (better handling, lower center of gravity, no squat & go, less brake driving, etc.) of the 1.5" springs, with out all the drawbacks (bottoming out the suspension, scraping curbs, potholes, etc) of going that extra bit lower.


I'm not really happy with the springs that I got. (wont mention names at the moment as I'm waiting to see how things pan out) The kit was supposed to be 1" front & 1.25" rear, which in theory should have taken some of the rake out & made the car almost level. But in practice... the front didn't drop a whole inch, and the rear probably dropped about 1.5". So overall not really happy with its saggy a55 appearance.

Wish I had stuck with Ford Racing, the quality control, plug-n-play fit, and bang for buck can't really be beat.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:46 PM   #70
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Depends on where you're driving. If you daily drive your car on a mix of roads, including bad roads you probably don't want to go 1.5". If you live in a place with great roads or your car is mostly a track day car, etc... drop it 1.5"+ and you'll be fine. I think 1.0 to 1.25" is the best compromise. It is quite substantial from stock.



The problem is the lower you go, the stiffer you really need to be to limit bottoming out, but then your ride quality suffers. So its a trade off. Some kits try to stay soft at 1.5", but then you're bottoming out on the jounce bumpers all the time.



Personally, I think 1" or 1.25" kits you get most of the benefits (better handling, lower center of gravity, no squat & go, less brake driving, etc.) of the 1.5" springs, with out all the drawbacks (bottoming out the suspension, scraping curbs, potholes, etc) of going that extra bit lower.





I'm not really happy with the springs that I got. (wont mention names at the moment as I'm waiting to see how things pan out) The kit was supposed to be 1" front & 1.25" rear, which in theory should have taken some of the rake out & made the car almost level. But in practice... the front didn't drop a whole inch, and the rear probably dropped about 1.5". So overall not really happy.



Wish I had stuck with Ford Racing, the quality control, plug-n-play fit, and bang for buck can't really be beat.

I agree, I probably should've went 1.25" myself because my 1.5" has settled even lower. Haven't bottomed out yet (because of careful driving/pothole dodging) but I have scraped my LCA relo brackets a few times. They sit maybe 2.5" off the ground :/


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