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Old 09-26-2014, 09:38 AM   #1
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Suspension Set-up

So does this look complete? Am I missing anything? I know there's probably better options but I wouldn't be using it for what it's worth. That's why I'm going this direction. I need to get rid of this wheel gap right away also.

My pony isn't a daily driver. It's more a weekend warrior.

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Old 09-26-2014, 09:49 AM   #2
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:06 PM   #3
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You still need an adjustable upper control arm and mount, lower control arms, and lower control arm relocation brackets.

And there are better choices than the Ford Racing stuff.
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:17 PM   #4
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+1 on Control arms and adjustable upper for sure
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:03 PM   #5
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Is it a necessity to have the upper
Control arm mount if you change to an adjustable upper? Reason I ask is, I lowered 1.5 and bought adjustable
Lowers with relocation
Brackets and a hotchkis upper(adjustable) but I didn't get a bracket for it. Is it a must?


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Old 09-26-2014, 02:11 PM   #6
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I guess my next question would be, would it be okay if I didn't get the upper control arm and relocation bracket?

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Old 09-26-2014, 02:32 PM   #7
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Yes, if you are going that far ... you may as well complete the package with upper & lowers.

Based on being a weekend warrior ... what are your goals for the car?

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Old 09-26-2014, 02:35 PM   #8
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EIBACH has a nice kit for around 1200...


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Old 09-26-2014, 02:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
Yes, if you are going that far ... you may as well complete the package with upper & lowers.

Based on being a weekend warrior ... what are your goals for the car?

Best Regards,

TJ
I don't have many goals for it yet. Right now it's just to look good and run reliably. I also don't want to mess with the warrenty. Want it to look more aggresive. The stock output of the motor is more then enough for now.

Also finding a reputable shop that does good work on suspension is also a goal.

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Old 09-26-2014, 02:45 PM   #10
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Where are you located?


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Old 09-26-2014, 03:55 PM   #11
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The San Francisco Bay Area

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Old 09-26-2014, 04:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCali5oh View Post
Is it a necessity to have the upper
Control arm mount if you change to an adjustable upper? Reason I ask is, I lowered 1.5 and bought adjustable
Lowers with relocation
Brackets and a hotchkis upper(adjustable) but I didn't get a bracket for it. Is it a must?
Yes it is necessary to have the adjustable upper control arm and mount. I wouldn't use adjustable lower control arms either. God forbid you don't get them set right you'll have a slew of problems.
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Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
I guess my next question would be, would it be okay if I didn't get the upper control arm and relocation bracket?
The adjustable upper control arm is necessary because your pinion angle will be off without it. That can cause your pinion seal to leak among other things.

The control arm relocation brackets are needed to get the angle of the control arm corrected.
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:44 PM   #13
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Okay but what if they do get set correctly? No problems then? Ford is gonna put them on.


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Old 09-27-2014, 09:08 PM   #14
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?


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Old 09-27-2014, 09:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Yes it is necessary to have the adjustable upper control arm and mount. I wouldn't use adjustable lower control arms either. God forbid you don't get them set right you'll have a slew of problems.

The adjustable upper control arm is necessary because your pinion angle will be off without it. That can cause your pinion seal to leak among other things.

The control arm relocation brackets are needed to get the angle of the control arm corrected.

I have the fixed BMR UCA with bracket. Am I going to run into serious issues. I wouldn't even know how to dial in an adjustable one, hence I went with a fixed unit.


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Old 09-28-2014, 01:44 AM   #16
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I bought the Ford Racing handling kit new for under six bills shipped on ebay. I put it on myself and then had the dealership align the front end. I already sold most of the original parts so have well under 1k invested. Mine is a weekend warrior as well, the drop is minimal but looks good and the car handles much better. I haven't seen the need for UCA or LCA replacements as I don't track the car. If you just want to drop the car and firm up the ride then those parts are fine.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCali5oh View Post
Okay but what if they do get set correctly? No problems then? Ford is gonna put them on.
Maybe, maybe not. Provided they know what they're doing.
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Originally Posted by 2014oxstang View Post
I have the fixed BMR UCA with bracket. Am I going to run into serious issues. I wouldn't even know how to dial in an adjustable one, hence I went with a fixed unit.
For the upper you want the adjustable. Setting it up is easy.
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I haven't seen the need for UCA or LCA replacements as I don't track the car. If you just want to drop the car and firm up the ride then those parts are fine.
Excellent advice!
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:08 AM   #18
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First thing is if you DD your car stay away from the Hotchkis adj UCA ad they don't have a mount and its a non-poly bushing I.E. LOUD as heck and you get the famous "thud" since they decided to build a UCA without a matching UCA mount.

Personally I would go with BMR for UCA and mount. For the other suspension parts, FRPP typically uses Tokico for their dampers, I personally don't like Tokico and after the management change in Tokico these past couple years I can see no big company using them.... unless they get a huge markup on costs.

Koni yellows or Bilstein would really be my only two choices if you're going to DD your car or like to do a bit of corner carving/ spirited driving. Other options out there for those that like to frequent the drag strip.

Check our website out, Hypermotive. We've tested hundreds of suspension setups for the S197 platform on just about every track and street setup you could possibly imagine. Any questions or concerns just give us a shout or shoot me a pm. We're not 100% bias towards any particular brand, we pick and choose parts that will suit your goals. Hope that helps
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:47 PM   #19
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So what would be the maximum drop I can do without having to worry about putting upper and lower control arms. Plus I am tired of scraping and having to go side as over any little bump.

Not planning on tracking the car or anything. And I don't want any issues to come up in the future. I like being part of team reliable.

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Old 09-28-2014, 01:59 PM   #20
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Eibach prokit springs would be the most aggressive springs I'd run without upgrading your UCA and mount.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:56 PM   #21
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that's the bare minimum, plus an alignment

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Old 09-28-2014, 03:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayman33 View Post
Eibach prokit springs would be the most aggressive springs I'd run without upgrading your UCA and mount.
So 1" up front and 1.5" in the rear should be same without have to change upper and lower control arms and mounts?

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Old 09-28-2014, 03:35 PM   #23
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So 1" up front and 1.5" in the rear should be same without have to change upper and lower control arms and mounts?

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Still not ideal (personally speaking) but you can get away with those springs. More like 1.2/ 1.4, small changes in springs add quite a bit of stress on the diff.
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Old 09-28-2014, 03:55 PM   #24
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Still not ideal (personally speaking) but you can get away with those springs. More like 1.2/ 1.4, small changes in springs add quite a bit of stress on the diff.
I'm starting to lean towards only a 1" drop just to avoid worries.

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Old 09-28-2014, 04:05 PM   #25
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No worries really, just get the supporting mods. One and done, never have to worry about it again
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:29 PM   #26
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1 inch drop actually makes the car look just right. The radius of wheel well matches all around.

More than that and then there's no top gap, but then you still have 1" gap on each side of the tire.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:49 PM   #27
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1 inch drop actually makes the car look just right. The radius of wheel well matches all around.

More than that and then there's no top gap, but then you still have 1" gap on each side of the tire.
The plus is also less scraping I would think. Starting to consider coil over just so I can adjust anytime I want. I also have a hook up on an air ride if I go that route but not really considering it.

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Old 09-29-2014, 09:43 AM   #28
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This is the look you will get with 1.5 drop all ford racing stuff , no upper and lower control arms yet those will be installed next week getting the arms from steeda aluminum Click image for larger version

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Old 09-29-2014, 12:48 PM   #29
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This is the look you will get with 1.5 drop all ford racing stuff , no upper and lower control arms yet those will be installed next week getting the arms from steeda aluminum Attachment 167045Attachment 167046


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It honestly looks amazing. I also have a DIB one also so now I really know what it looks like. I actually really like the Brembo wheels so with 1.5" drop all the way around I will have a bit more wheel gap. I also wasn't planning on doing the whole control arm stuff but it's almost a have to do it, if I go that low. Finding a reputable shop in my area is also my main concern and the factory warrenty.

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Old 09-29-2014, 04:41 PM   #30
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Suspension Set-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
It honestly looks amazing. I also have a DIB one also so now I really know what it looks like. I actually really like the Brembo wheels so with 1.5" drop all the way around I will have a bit more wheel gap. I also wasn't planning on doing the whole control arm stuff but it's almost a have to do it, if I go that low. Finding a reputable shop in my area is also my main concern and the factory warrenty.

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Factory warranty? If you lower the car, and you break an oem strut or shock, with an aftermarket spring, they WILL NOT cover it. Hell I'd have a hard time seeing a dealer cover suspension parts under warranty period. Seems like wear and tear to me. Could be wrong.


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Old 09-30-2014, 01:42 AM   #31
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First thing is if you DD your car stay away from the Hotchkis adj UCA ad they don't have a mount and its a non-poly bushing I.E. LOUD as heck and you get the famous "thud" since they decided to build a UCA without a matching UCA mount.

Personally I would go with BMR for UCA and mount. For the other suspension parts, FRPP typically uses Tokico for their dampers, I personally don't like Tokico and after the management change in Tokico these past couple years I can see no big company using them.... unless they get a huge markup on costs.

Koni yellows or Bilstein would really be my only two choices if you're going to DD your car or like to do a bit of corner carving/ spirited driving. Other options out there for those that like to frequent the drag strip.

Check our website out, Hypermotive. We've tested hundreds of suspension setups for the S197 platform on just about every track and street setup you could possibly imagine. Any questions or concerns just give us a shout or shoot me a pm. We're not 100% bias towards any particular brand, we pick and choose parts that will suit your goals. Hope that helps
+1 on not using the Hotchkis UCA...Crazy loud. Took mine off in the 1st month.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:56 AM   #32
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Eibach prokit springs would be the most aggressive springs I'd run without upgrading your UCA and mount.

Just to back this up I run the prokit springs also. I had anadjustable UCA, set it to the correct pinion angle, and had a shop double checkthe pinion angle. I took the adjustable off while searching for noise issuesand it was the same length as the stock UCA. I ended up swapping for a nonadjustablepoly UCA and mount both by UPR.
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:56 AM   #33
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I also have a suspension question, I have a 2014 Mustang, but I have the 05-10 Koni yellows because I want to use the GT500 strut mounts. I'm planning to get the Eibach Pro kit too, will the 11-14 Eibachs fit or do I need to get the 05-10 Eibach Pros. The 11-14 and 05-10 Eibach Pros have a different drop height. Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:32 AM   #34
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Kanine, use the 11-14 springs. Very small difference in the Koni's from each year group.
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:49 AM   #35
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Just to back this up I run the prokit springs also. I had anadjustable UCA, set it to the correct pinion angle, and had a shop double checkthe pinion angle. I took the adjustable off while searching for noise issuesand it was the same length as the stock UCA. I ended up swapping for a nonadjustablepoly UCA and mount both by UPR.
So is it safe to say that with those springs, you might not need to change the upper control arms?

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