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Old 10-02-2014, 07:09 PM   #1
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New Wheel Size Question

2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR, 20×9/20x10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S
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2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR 20X9/20X10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S
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Old 10-02-2014, 07:53 PM   #2
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New Wheel Size Question

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2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR, 20×9/20x10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S

Reading your post gave me a migraine lol


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Old 10-02-2014, 07:59 PM   #3
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I don't see a question in there
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:16 PM   #4
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Like what?


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Old 10-02-2014, 08:50 PM   #5
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Sorry I changed my signature on another forum and copied it by mistake.

Here it is... I just switched from my factory size 19x8.5 wheels to 20x9 in front and 20x10.5 in the rear. To me it seems the car rides a little different and has a very slight vibration when going 60 plus.

Has anyone else that did this type of switch notice the change I'm describing? I have 275 35 20 up front and 295 30 20 in the rear
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2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR 20X9/20X10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:56 PM   #6
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New Wheel Size Question

Yes but only because the wheel was balanced incorrectly. Take it back to the tire center and have them rebalance the wheels.

After i rebalanced the wheel it vibration and noise went away


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Old 10-02-2014, 09:12 PM   #7
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I'll definitely try that. It's not bad, it just feels weird.
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2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR 20X9/20X10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S
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Old 10-02-2014, 10:47 PM   #8
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Check out this thread. It may help.

My mustang was vibrating!

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Old 10-02-2014, 11:06 PM   #9
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Going thinner on the sidewalks doesn't help either


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Old 10-03-2014, 09:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_waldroup View Post
Sorry I changed my signature on another forum and copied it by mistake.

Here it is... I just switched from my factory size 19x8.5 wheels to 20x9 in front and 20x10.5 in the rear. To me it seems the car rides a little different and has a very slight vibration when going 60 plus.

Has anyone else that did this type of switch notice the change I'm describing? I have 275 35 20 up front and 295 30 20 in the rear
I've seen this same complaint times people talking about American Muscle's tires... "over 60 mph and I get vibration".
another Example: Just found out the hard way about American Muscle Replica Wheels

They might be using a cheap low speed balancing machine. (or have an unskilled operator) A large company like American Muscle needs to invest in a highspeed laser guided road balancing machine, which makes things nearly fool proof. (I'm assuming this... I could be wrong, but the evidence points to this)

I just bought a set of wheels & tires from American Muscle. I should have them in a few days. The first thing I'm going to do, is bring them to the place that used to mount / balance my Porsche tires, and check their balance. I used to drive my porsche at very high speeds often... of course on a closed track only.

I'll report back about the balance.

But I will say their customer service did a great job at adding some things even after the order was "committed". (I forgot to add TPMs & free Nitro fill)
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Old 10-03-2014, 12:04 PM   #11
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Mine wasn't from American Muscle, just fyi...
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2013 GT A6 ROUSH CAI, BOSS MANIFOLD INTAKE, BORLA "ATAK" CATBACK EXHAUST WITH BORLA X PIPE, X 4 TUNER WITH CUSTOM TUNE BY STANGHI, STEEDA PANDHAR BAR, ROUSH COIL SPRINGS, ROUSH UPPER CONTROL ARM, ROUSH LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 1.5" DROP FRONT, 2" DROP REAR 20X9/20X10.5 CONCAVO CW-5'S
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:52 PM   #12
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New Wheel Size Question

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Originally Posted by Mike_waldroup View Post
Mine wasn't from American Muscle, just fyi...


Oh, well new wheels then suddenly get vibration at higher speeds points to tires being out of balance. It happens more often if you go too cheap.



Cheaper wheels & tires both will take more weights to balance. And sometimes they're so out of wack they can't really fix things at very high speeds even with the best balancing machines you'll get a little vibrations still.



You get some highend HRE's + pilot super sports and you'd probably need very small weights.
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Old 10-04-2014, 05:33 AM   #13
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I had that problem with mmr rims. Exchanged them for forgestar and haven't had an issue since.

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Old 10-04-2014, 06:02 PM   #14
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You get what you pay for


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Old 10-05-2014, 09:29 PM   #15
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You get what you pay for


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Not always. Vossen gave me issues too.

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Old 10-05-2014, 10:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyt03 View Post
Not always. Vossen gave me issues too.
Well, technically Vossens are more like mid-end... not high end like HRE that I quoted as probably being problem free.

But there's always going to be exceptions to the rules.

But in general... higher end stuff are made much better, balanced nearly perfectly (with out weights before tires), and go through much more quality control than the mid or low end stuff.

It all comes down to what you're going to be doing with the car too. If you're just going to DD, and just want a look, then cheap replicas are fine. But if you want better performance, the higher end stuff is lighter and stiffer and can make a difference on the track.

Personally, I wouldn't put anything on my car that costs less than $200/wheel.

I plan on taking my car to the track (road course) eventually when its broken in. And I want a lighter wheel, that can take high G turns with out me worrying about failure, etc.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:52 PM   #17
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I had the same issue. I made sure the rotor retaining clips were not still on the wheel studs. That wasn't it so.....after several regular balances, road force balances, swapping wheels front to back, side to side, getting 2 replacement rims, new inner and outer tie rods, an alignment and tearing my hair out I came a cross an interesting thread on the the electronic steering rack being a problem when changing to different tire sizes etc. Apparently Ford knows about it in the GT500 and has issued a TSB to fix it by flashing the computer or something but has yet to admit there is an issue with the GT's. The only fix is the Ford Racing Boss steering rack which is not calibrated to a specific wheel size. That cost about $900 so I now I just deal with it.
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